You other (2nd gen) SV owners out there feel your shifter is more "clunky" that other bikes? I've riden a few other bikes, and it seems my SV (roughly 10k miles, currently Rotella T synth oil) takes more effort to get into gear that the others- more toe force required. Haven't ridden another SV is a couple of years, so I dunno if thats the deal, or I mine has developed a problem...
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sv650: clunky shifting
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afm199 said:
Perhaps my clutch cable needs some minor adjustment, but even when I pull the clutch all the way in, it still feels clunky compared to othe bikes, even other suzuki's, like the busa.
Kinda like a minor version of the clunk you can sometimes get dropping into first gear from a stop.
afm199
Well-known member
Well, let's put it another way. Can you turn the motor off, put the bike in first gear, pull the clutch in and push the bike easily. That will tell you if the clutch is dragging.
If the clutch is bad, or the actuator is out of adjustment, you can adjust the cable all day long and it will still drag.
If the clutch is bad, or the actuator is out of adjustment, you can adjust the cable all day long and it will still drag.
afm199 said:
Hmm, define "easily". It definitely takes more effort to push the bike in first gear with the clutch pulled in, but is still doable. I do it when moving the bike around a few feet, but wouldn't consider rolling it very far... if that helps.
I'm 6' and have to push maybe 20-30# harder on the bars, whatever that translates to in torque.
Is that *not* normal for the ess-vee?
afm199
Well-known member
It should roll almost as easily as not in gear. Even with cold oil. If it is hard to push the clutch is dragging. I push my bikes all the time in gear with the clutch pulled in...... Think about it.
wannabe
"Insignificant Other"
Does the SV have a hydraulic or cable clutch? Just from what you've posted, it sounds like your clutch is dragging. That could be why your shifting is so clunky.
When you pull in the clutch and shift from neutral to 1st gear, does the bike lurch forward a bit even with the clutch lever still pulled in?
When you pull in the clutch and shift from neutral to 1st gear, does the bike lurch forward a bit even with the clutch lever still pulled in?
wannabe said:
Cable clutch. There's no stiction in my cable, I regularly lube it with Tri-Flow.
wannabe said:
Definitely not. I drop into first with the clutch pulled in at red lights all the time, in anticipation of the light change. If it moves at all, I can't feel it over the force it takes to get into friggin first gear.
wannabe
"Insignificant Other"
How much free play does your clutch lever have?
afm199 said:
Bad clutch? I'm the second owner and have no idea how the clutch may have been abused-- but its only got 10k miles.
Actuator out of adjustment? I checked our the service manual for clutch adjustments, and followed the limited advice it offered: turn the adjuster all the way towards the clutch lever, remove the sprocket cover, loosen the locknut and turn the adjustment screw out 2-3 turns (dunno why?), then turn it in until it stops, then back out 1/4 turn and tighten the locknut. Loosen the lower clutch cable locknut and adjust for 10-15mm play at the clutch lever end. Retighten locknut.
I also took the time to give everything a good cleaning, and lubed the clutch cable and mechanical points of the shifter.
No difference- I couldn't get it from first back into neutral easily with my hands, I had to jump on the bike and use my foot!
I heard one sv rider saying something similiar and said it went away when they changed their oil. maybe fully synthetic. I think they originally used the same kind you mentioned. I could be mistaken. But that was just with difficulty shifting, you cant push your bike in gear probally dragging clutch. Get it checked out or you might burn it up.
Chas
Member
How's the shift linkage? Suzuki seems to have designed the SV so that the shifter hits the ground first in a left-side tipover.
MustRide
New member
Hmm, my SV does this when cold. Is that just from the thick (cold) oil?wannabe said:
MustRide said:
Un-possible. Even in winter, oil viscosity wouldn't account for the amount of effort I'm seeing when in gear vs neutral.
Give your bike a push in gear (clutch in) today. I bet you'll see about the same effort required.
afm199
Well-known member
Only ten thou, hmm. Yes you got the actuator adjusted right, and obviously it controls where the clutch engages. So my take would be possibly warped steels. Hard to say. Actually changing out the clutch pack is pretty quick, about an hour, and costs mabye $140 for parts.
I always replace the pack when it starts to drag badly. Then again I beat the clutch up on the track a lot.
I always replace the pack when it starts to drag badly. Then again I beat the clutch up on the track a lot.
iehawk
Well-known member
How long ago since you had the clutch serviced? Has it been serviced ever?
Mine was like that toward 12K. Brought it in for service, then it's all good again. Something about realligning the gears and clutch. Or something else.
Mine was like that toward 12K. Brought it in for service, then it's all good again. Something about realligning the gears and clutch. Or something else.
iehawk said:
I've had no service performed on the clutch to date. The only thing in the service manual for the clutch is "inspect" every 3k miles or somesuch, and I'm somewhat shocked it would need servicing at only 10k/3years.
Do you know if the service done to your bike included replacing parts?