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*Update* Mounting Nonstandard Race Fairings

weasel

Eradicator
Joined
Jan 6, 2002
Location
Charlotte NC
Moto(s)
03' RVT1000
Name
jim
BARF perks
AMA #: 2815972
***Skip to the end :D ****

Does anyone have ideas on how to mount or know someone who can help me mount nonstandard fairings on a race bike?

Bike EX500 w/F2 front end. Fairings off an inline 4 so they're pretty wide, about 3"'s of clearance on both sides.

Obviously they won't just bolt on so can I make brackets from crap at Home Depot like this…?

8678b873-8873-464e-b395-c5d4ec84026b_300.jpg


I also need to make a damn inside the belly pan but that shouldn’t be too hard (famous last words) and of course all of this has to pass tech.

On the bright side I think the fairing stay will work with the upper.

I’m willing to pay a shop but I don’t know who would do this kind of thing that I can afford :dunno

Kthxbye

Oh yeah, I need it done by 9/27 :teeth
 

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You might want to give Mike (Mr. Crash) a call. He once raced an EX500 and jury-rigged up some race bodywork IIRC.
 
I suspect strapping is going to be way too flimsy for such a purpose. When you look at vintage/purpose-built race bikes, they usually use narrow tubing. I'd suggest you pick up some thin-walled steel tubing, and get the torch out.
 
:laughing If I had torches and a welder I'd be all set, but...I don't.

But my cousin might *ding* thanks for the idea.
 
i'm a big fan of copper tubing from orchard supply motorcycle parts. i hear home depot motorcycle parts carries it too.

it solders/brazes together really easy and a propane torch should do ya fine for those temps as long as the parts are farly small.

if you're good with a hammer it makes flattened integral bent tabs pretty easily as well... remember the ratzuik? yeah it was all over that thing
 
id use the strapping for mock-up, then make something better/stiffer after the dimensions and locations were correct. AceHardware usually has a pretty good selection of AL in flat, angle, and u-channel. even bent 1/4" thick flat AL will prob be stiffer than brazed copper tubing.

id connect the upper and lower around the bike, then try to locate the entire fairing in the best spot. dont be afraid to bend your fairing stay ears too to make them work better.
 
:laughing If I had torches and a welder I'd be all set, but...I don't.

But my cousin might *ding* thanks for the idea.

A MAP torch, and a high-quality Harbor Freight tubing bender, :laughing and you'd be all set. I'd personally stick with steel, in spite of the weight. If you go with aluminum, it'll cost more, and I'd suggest you bend it cold. It's very difficult to tell when aluminum is the right temp to work.
 
i'm a big fan of copper tubing from orchard supply motorcycle parts. i hear home depot motorcycle parts carries it too.

it solders/brazes together really easy and a propane torch should do ya fine for those temps as long as the parts are farly small.

if you're good with a hammer it makes flattened integral bent tabs pretty easily as well... remember the ratzuik? yeah it was all over that thing

That's genius... :thumbup I need to make a mount for my 900SS fairing and I don't have a welder.
 
since ya'll aren't making fun of my copper tube approach yet i'll share more:
-the shit isn't cheap. oh well, it's cheaper than a TIG welder
-if you have to put a fitting in the bracket, say a T, and the short side of the T has to be flattened to make a mounting tab later be sure to solder it before you flatten things out. while you flatten it, things will likely oval themselves or outright break in that particular joint. no furkcing worries because the parts won't separate due to deformation and all you have to do is hit it with the torch again to re-flow the solder and un-break the joint. drill holes at the last possible moment.
-people will think you're into steam punk, ymmv

A MAP torch, and a high-quality Harbor Freight tubing bender, :laughing and you'd be all set. I'd personally stick with steel, in spite of the weight. If you go with aluminum, it'll cost more, and I'd suggest you bend it cold. It's very difficult to tell when aluminum is the right temp to work.

it sure as fucking shit is. you don't typically work it hot, rather anneal it and after it air cools bend it cold. the work hardening regains some of the harness lost in the annealing. knowing when to stop heating it before it collapses into an amorphous blob is the hard part of course...

if you have oxy/acetelyne or some other mixed gas torch light a really sooty flame and coat the metal. heat it, and when it's burnt off stop and let cool. should be pretty damn close to fully annealed.

another one i've heard is to use bar soap and smear it across the part all over. apply heat till the soap turns brown and let cool slowly and you should be good to go.
 
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iv got a welder jim so lmk if you need something stitched up. probably need to weld on round stock, then drill a hole in the end and either put a clip comming from the outside of the fairing or weld on a dzus or something. I can stitch something and I have some material (mostly 1/2" square, and some 1/2" round solid)
 
For small motorcycle brackets, I go to osh and get those long strips of aluminum (come in varying thicknesses and widths) and cut, drill and use a vise to bend them and they work great. No need to paint since they're aluminum. Use a file to clean up any rough edges.

They look like this:

aluminum-strip.aspx


15980d1270657738t-custom-e-fan-installation-img00082-20100328-1502.jpg


Sometimes a little heat works well to bend them without fatiguing/damaging the metal, especially if they are thicker.
 
2 other ideas....

3 layers of the strapping would prob b stiff enough.

or, since u r already going to be doing glass-work, a fiberglass bracket. i bet 10 layers of cloth would do it, just dont gob on the resin.

whatever u do, post up tons of pics.
 
Ok, I don't know why I didn't think of this sooner. My cousin has a full auto repair shop it San Carlos.

He builds bikes, hot rods, and custom 4x4's.

I just went and talked to him. He laughed at me. He can make all the brackets, weld, do case covers, and fiberglass.

Oh and he just got a plastic welder so he's going to fix the cracks on my street bike for free :teeth.

In case you's guys need anything like this or plastic welding ask for Warren and say cousin Jimi sent you

European Auto
219 Old County Rd San Carlos, CA 94070‎
(650) 592-1466
https://plus.google.com/116127206044241191475/about?gl=us&hl=en

Now...

since ya'll aren't making fun of my copper tube approach yet i'll share more:

LOL, thanks B, I'll be bringing copper with me to the shop.

iv got a welder jim

Thanks J, I should be cool but it's nice having someone 5 minutes from my house :teeth

For small motorcycle brackets, I go to osh and get those long strips of aluminum (come in varying thicknesses and widths) and cut, drill and use a vise to bend them and they work great. No need to paint since they're aluminum. Use a file to clean up any rough edges.

I'll get a bunch of this stuff too. Thx A.

I can weld if someone can help fab the brackets.

We be good :thumbup

2 other ideas....

3 layers of the strapping would prob b stiff enough.

or, since u r already going to be doing glass-work, a fiberglass bracket. i bet 10 layers of cloth would do it, just dont gob on the resin.

whatever u do, post up tons of pics.

I'll post a bunch.

I've never worked with fiberglass and making the damn dam might be tricky. :laughing I can use an oval aluminum turkey baking pan right? :teeth
 
For small motorcycle brackets, I go to osh and get those long strips of aluminum (come in varying thicknesses and widths) and cut, drill and use a vise to bend them and they work great. No need to paint since they're aluminum. Use a file to clean up any rough edges.

ProTip:

They sell aluminum yard sticks that are the same thickness and usually longer for about 25% less $$$.
 
No he don't. He's the "pit crew" :teeth We're building the bike at his place but he's never done this kind of thing.
Didn't know he got rid of it. He did a couple years ago.

If you were closer to SLO I'd offer to help.
 
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