• ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
    • It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again

    1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
    • animals, though free re-homing is ok.
    • anything illegal.
    • drugs, legal or not.

    2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:

    • Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY. DO NOT PUT PRICE IN THE TITLE
      • motorcycle or other vehicle:
        - make [MANDATORY]
        - model [MANDATORY]
        - year [MANDATORY]
        - Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
        - mileage
        - title info
        - current condition
        - maintenance history
        - accident history
        - location
      • If selling riding gear, include:
        - size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
        - in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.

    • Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
    • DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
    • Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
    • Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" (
      report.gif
      ) option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
    • With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.


    3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!

    • Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
    • Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
    • Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
    • Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
    • Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958

    4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad

    • Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
    • If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
    • If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
    • If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.

    5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF

    • Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.

      BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
    • If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
    • We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (15 days and 15 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.

    6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
    • No reposting
    • No reposting
    • No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.

    7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
    • Is not allowed.

    8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
    • Is no longer allowed.

      • If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.
  • ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
    • It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again

    1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
    • animals, though free re-homing is ok.
    • anything illegal.
    • drugs, legal or not.

    2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:

    • Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY. DO NOT PUT PRICE IN THE TITLE
      • motorcycle or other vehicle:
        - make [MANDATORY]
        - model [MANDATORY]
        - year [MANDATORY]
        - Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
        - mileage
        - title info
        - current condition
        - maintenance history
        - accident history
        - location
      • If selling riding gear, include:
        - size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
        - in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.

    • Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
    • DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
    • Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
    • Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" (
      report.gif
      ) option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
    • With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.


    3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!

    • Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
    • Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
    • Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
    • Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
    • Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958

    4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad

    • Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
    • If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
    • If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
    • If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.

    5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF

    • Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.

      BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
    • If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
    • We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (30 days and 30 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.

    6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
    • No reposting
    • No reposting
    • No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.

    7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
    • Is not allowed.

    8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
    • Is no longer allowed.

      • If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.
  • There has been a recent cluster of spammers accessing BARFer accounts and posting spam. To safeguard your account, please consider changing your password. It would be even better to take the additional step of enabling 2 Factor Authentication (2FA) on your BARF account. Read more here.

Valentino Rossi Replica Helmet - AGV Size Medium

C

chachi

New member
Joined
Jul 25, 2004
Location
Petaluma
Moto(s)
2003 600RR
I bought this helmet online, but it turns out to be a size to small for me. I almost want to keep it just cause it looks so cool, but I really need another helmet. So if you have a helmet that is maybe a size to large, I am definitely open to trades. I usually wear a size large. I have a helmet bag or it as well.

$250 obo.

PM me or call - 562-685-3194
 

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Last edited:
I'm sorry but does that say made on 12/00 :wtf

Also what model is that?
 
roytmani said:
I'm sorry but does that say made on 12/00 :wtf

Also what model is that?
Click to expand...

Yup, manufacture date says 12/00. I hadn't even noticed. The helmet is in brand new condition.

As for the model, I have no idea. I haven't been able to find any kind of model label on it, and I don't really know AGV helmets well enough to tell by design. If you have any suggestions on how to find out I can try and figure it out though.
 
I've never seen that motif before, it looks kickass!
 
Unfortunately that is correct. In 5 years the EPS hardens and is no longer seen as safe if put to the test. If you're wearing the lid to be law compliant, that's one thing (think non-lid wearers from out of state coming here). If on the other hand you wear a helmet for it's intended purpose, that definitely expires at 5 years.
 
Ya i had that lid 10! years ago but put a big rash on it....thats rossi's old original design....old and way over priced bro, i've never seen so much way over priced stuf than on this site.:rolleyes
 
revkev said:
Ya i had that lid 10! years ago but put a big rash on it....thats rossi's old original design....old and way over priced bro, i've never seen so much way over priced stuf than on this site.:rolleyes
Click to expand...
do you is my helmet over priced?
"sorry for the thread jack":laughing
 
revkev said:
Ya i had that lid 10! years ago but put a big rash on it....thats rossi's old original design....old and way over priced bro, i've never seen so much way over priced stuf than on this site.:rolleyes
Click to expand...

Easy there tiger! please read the TOS and the classified section rules. If you think that it's overpriced no prob Bob, don't shoot down the coast and buy it, but also don't post in their thread poopin' on their parade.

People can ask whatever they want, they might not get it, but they sure can ask :thumbup
 
revkev said:
Ya i had that lid 10! years ago but put a big rash on it....thats rossi's old original design....old and way over priced bro, i've never seen so much way over priced stuf than on this site.:rolleyes
Click to expand...

Dude, there's overpriced stuff everywhere.

FYI, I've bought so many cheap things on here. New suits for nearly nothing, race tires for under $100. Boots, helmets, whatever. I buy so much cheap stuff on here that now i'm pooooooor! haha

bump for a Rossi helmet.
 
snowflow mfg said:
Dude, there's overpriced stuff everywhere.

FYI, I've bought so many cheap things on here. New suits for nearly nothing, race tires for under $100. Boots, helmets, whatever. I buy so much cheap stuff on here that now i'm pooooooor! haha

bump for a Rossi helmet.
Click to expand...

Well dont get me wrong,there are good deals on here as well but i see more over priced stuf on here than anywhere.....its like, LOL prices!
 
revkev said:
Well dont get me wrong,there are good deals on here as well but i see more over priced stuf on here than anywhere.....its like, LOL prices!
Click to expand...

What do you think the OBO was for? I wasn't expecting to get that for it, but I got to start somewhere. And that price is a hell of a lot cheaper than I see most Rossi helmets go for.

Besides, I was mainly looking for a trade.

Even if it doesn't sell, this helmet just looks awesome sitting on my my shelf. For a Rossi fan like me it's just cool to look at.
 
roytmani said:
Unfortunately that is correct. In 5 years the EPS hardens and is no longer seen as safe if put to the test. If you're wearing the lid to be law compliant, that's one thing (think non-lid wearers from out of state coming here). If on the other hand you wear a helmet for it's intended purpose, that definitely expires at 5 years.
Click to expand...

Do you have a cite for the 5 year shelf life? I've heard 5 years thrown around but I've always assumed that was general rule of thumb and it was really geared towards helmets that are used frequently (not to mention a manufacturer 'recommendation' to spur helmet sales).

Brian
 
chachi said:
What do you think the OBO was for? I wasn't expecting to get that for it, but I got to start somewhere. And that price is a hell of a lot cheaper than I see most Rossi helmets go for.

Besides, I was mainly looking for a trade.

Even if it doesn't sell, this helmet just looks awesome sitting on my my shelf. For a Rossi fan like me it's just cool to look at.
Click to expand...

I agree, i allways liked that design....they made two versions of that lid...one was a cheap replica that sold for bout $149.95 and one that sold for $300 but if you look around on like dennis kirk you will see brand new rossi's for $250-$750 depending on what one you want.
 
chachi said:
What do you think the OBO was for? I wasn't expecting to get that for it, but I got to start somewhere. And that price is a hell of a lot cheaper than I see most Rossi helmets go for.

Besides, I was mainly looking for a trade.

Even if it doesn't sell, this helmet just looks awesome sitting on my my shelf. For a Rossi fan like me it's just cool to look at.
Click to expand...

I've seen the next model Rossi helmets go all day new for under $400 already. I believe it's the X-R2 (not the ti or gp-tech).
But yours is older and you can't get it anymore so maybe it's a good collectors item? Try to get it signed, then sell it! :thumbup

revkev said:
Well dont get me wrong,there are good deals on here as well but i see more over priced stuf on here than anywhere.....its like, LOL prices!
Click to expand...

I know what you mean. Not trying to give anyone a hard time. :laughing

LOL prices.....:laughing I think the $50 for used knee sliders was the best. :rofl
 
Try webBikeWorld, the helmet section on that site is the best :thumbup

All the major manufacturers and studies have all arrived at the 5 year mark. The EPS hardens and becomes brittle with age, which is accelerated by UV, sweat, heating and cooling (in other words with normal use). Even if it sits on the shelf for you to fap to, at 5yrs old, it's no longer deemed safe to take a hit and dispurse the energy. If you wore it for 30k miles per year, ranging from 30degrees to 110degrees, rain, snow and tons of sun, I'd say 5 years would be pushin it, it would harden in 2 or 3 in those extreme conditions and 90k miles of use.

NVR FNSH said:
Do you have a cite for the 5 year shelf life? I've heard 5 years thrown around but I've always assumed that was general rule of thumb and it was really geared towards helmets that are used frequently (not to mention a manufacturer 'recommendation' to spur helmet sales).

Brian
Click to expand...
 
roytmani said:
Try webBikeWorld, the helmet section on that site is the best :thumbup

All the major manufacturers and studies have all arrived at the 5 year mark. The EPS hardens and becomes brittle with age, which is accelerated by UV, sweat, heating and cooling (in other words with normal use). Even if it sits on the shelf for you to fap to, at 5yrs old, it's no longer deemed safe to take a hit and dispurse the energy. If you wore it for 30k miles per year, ranging from 30degrees to 110degrees, rain, snow and tons of sun, I'd say 5 years would be pushin it, it would harden in 2 or 3 in those extreme conditions and 90k miles of use.
Click to expand...



Here is a link to what I would personally call a "major manufacturer" Shoei.
http://www.shoei-helmets.com/Maintenance.aspx

What it says is this:

Helmet Replacement
Ultimately, the useful service life of a safety helmet is dependent on the intensity and frequency of its use. Helmet replacement is recommended even if only one of the under-mentioned points applies:

1.The helmet was subjected to an impact.
2.The comfort padding or the retention system has become loose due to heavy use or display signs of deterioration.
3.The synthetic foam padding displays signs of heavy use and the helmet feels too loose. Test: with the retention system fastened, the helmet turns to the side when you gently shake your head.
4.There are indentations in the EPS liner and/or white scratches can be seen on surfaces with black paint.
5.Even if none of these is applied, we, SHOEI, recommend replacement in 5 years after it's first purchased at retail.


My understanding is that #5 means exactly what it says. It doesn't say that helmets will disintegrate on the shelf in the store after five years, and become "deemed unsafe". I'm going to also asssume this is why you see older model helmets still for sale on the shelf at a lot of stores.

To the OP. Don't believe everything you hear. Do the research yourself. Contact AGV. The info I posted is from Shoei but my guess is they will say something very similar. But what do I know, it's only some crap Shoei posted on their website. I'm sure they could have been drunk when they wrote that :rolleyes:rolleyes
 
Every major manufacturer recommends 5 years, except Shoei and Arai, which say 5 from purchase or 7 from born on date. They're assuming that your retailer will sell you a pretty fresh lid (ie. less than 2 years old). The oldest I've ever seen at a retailer (cycle gear) is 1.5 years old.

#5 below validates the fact that besides wear/tear and damage, the helmet will go bad on the shelf due to old age. Check out Arai's website on that as well, and webBikeWorld is a great resource, as I've already mentioned above.


sawman said:
Here is a link to what I would personally call a "major manufacturer" Shoei.
http://www.shoei-helmets.com/Maintenance.aspx

What it says is this:

Helmet Replacement
Ultimately, the useful service life of a safety helmet is dependent on the intensity and frequency of its use. Helmet replacement is recommended even if only one of the under-mentioned points applies:

1.The helmet was subjected to an impact.
2.The comfort padding or the retention system has become loose due to heavy use or display signs of deterioration.
3.The synthetic foam padding displays signs of heavy use and the helmet feels too loose. Test: with the retention system fastened, the helmet turns to the side when you gently shake your head.
4.There are indentations in the EPS liner and/or white scratches can be seen on surfaces with black paint.
5.Even if none of these is applied, we, SHOEI, recommend replacement in 5 years after it's first purchased at retail.


My understanding is that #5 means exactly what it says. It doesn't say that helmets will disintegrate on the shelf in the store after five years, and become "deemed unsafe". I'm going to also asssume this is why you see older model helmets still for sale on the shelf at a lot of stores.

To the OP. Don't believe everything you hear. Do the research yourself. Contact AGV. The info I posted is from Shoei but my guess is they will say something very similar. But what do I know, it's only some crap Shoei posted on their website. I'm sure they could have been drunk when they wrote that :rolleyes:rolleyes
Click to expand...
 
roytmani said:
Every major manufacturer recommends 5 years, except Shoei and Arai, which say 5 from purchase or 7 from born on date. They're assuming that your retailer will sell you a pretty fresh lid (ie. less than 2 years old). The oldest I've ever seen at a retailer (cycle gear) is 1.5 years old.

:wtf Interesting. 5 from purchase or 7 from birth? Cuz I could have swore you just said something like:

Originally Posted by roytmani
All the major manufacturers and studies have all arrived at the 5 year mark. The EPS hardens and becomes brittle with age, which is accelerated by UV, sweat, heating and cooling (in other words with normal use). Even if it sits on the shelf for you to fap to, at 5yrs old, it's no longer deemed safe to take a hit and dispurse the energy
Click to expand...
 
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