WR426 Clutch

[mweitz]

Right before the Six Hours of Hollister, my clutch stopped working.

I would pull the handle in but the clutch wouldn't disengage the motor while it was off.

Bike is in first gear, go to roll it, pull clutch in, but the bike won't roll.

So, I started it in neutral, then rolled down the hill and shifted it into second without the cluth and rode around a bit. It seemed fine for the rest of the day.

Next time I went to work on it, it was in the same condition. I had also developed a little leak at the oil seal where the kick starter is so I drained the oil, changed the filter and ordered a new seal a new clutch and a new clutch cable.

Today I installed them all and the bike still won't disengage with the clutch pulled in.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Mark

 

[Yakoo752]

warped steels?

 

[mweitz]

warped steels?

The parts between the friction plates? I replaced the friction plates, the metal between them and the springs.

A little resarch points towards a notched clutch basket and or mis adjusted clutch cable. There was a recent change to the clutch cable, but I did the SheetIron with it like that and there were no problems ...

 

[Yakoo752]

could be an excessively notched basket... when you replaced the clutch did you look at the baskets "finger" to see if they were grooving?

 

[mweitz]

could be an excessively notched basket... when you replaced the clutch did you look at the baskets "finger" to see if they were grooving?

No, I'll do that when I get back, I'm heading to So Cal early tomorrow am for the day so hopefully Sunday.

Thanks,

Mark

 

[mweitz]

I just typed a long post, but it seems to me that if the pressure plates are not in, the bike should roll freely in gear regardless of clutch position, is this accurate?

If it is, and it doesn't, what is the likely cause?

Thanks,

Mark

 

[mweitz]

OK, DUH.

The bike rolls with the clutch out. The Clutch Boss doesn't turn freely, but now I understand why.

Is it possible that there is just too much friction without oil in the bike? I still haven't filled it after the clutch swap just in case I needed to get back in there.

Is it worthwhile to fill it, ride it for a few minutes and then see what happens?

Thanks,

Mark

 

[usedtobefast]

I don't 100% understand your situation ... but a few things about clutches

- if the fiber plates are worn it will start to feel like you are slipping the clutch at high rpms ... as they get more worn you get to the point where the bikes doesn't move (bike started, in gear, clutch lever out, bike can't climb a little hill, revs up, but no move) ... this does not sound like your problem.

- if the metal plates are warped the clutch will drag ... bike started, in gear, clutch lever pulled in, the bike creaps along ... again, doesn't sound like your problem

- the metal plates can also be glazed, clutch will act like the first scenario, but the fiber plate measure out ok ... cheap guys then sand all the metal plates and put it all bake together ... again, doesn't sound like your problem

So ... you probably did not need to buy the clutch plates.

Oh, when you put in a new clutch most guys say to soak the fiber plates in oil ... I just coat them really well with oil ... but very bad to put them in dry (unless it is a Ducati ).

A notched basket will make your clutch not work well, but I've never heard of one so bad that the clutch would not work at all. Basically as you pull the clutch lever that is trying to spread the plates apart, but the notches in the basket make it, well, notchy ... so bad action, clutch will feel kind of jerky even thou you are letting it out smoothly.

Are you saying that with the engine off, bike in gear, pull clutch lever in, can not roll the bike ... but when the engine is running it works great?

Sounds like you are pulling you clutch cover off again ... when it is off, pull in the clutch lever and look down at your clutch, the main pressure plate should move the the right a good amount, maybe 2-3-4 mm. If it doesn't, sounds like something is messed up on the left side where the activator (making up words here) arm goes into the engine.

Not sure with Yamaha's if this wears out or what.

Also I assume you made sure the clutch basket bolt is nice and tight ... the bolt usually has a tab that bends over so I doubt that is it.

This sounds like what happens to bikes with hydraulic clutches when the master or slave cylinder are messed up.

So I'm voting:
- clutch activator (thing that goes into case that arm and cable attach to) is bad
- clutch hub bolt backed off
- heavily notched clutch basket (not cheap)

Good luck!

 

[mweitz]

I don't 100% understand your situation ... but a few things about clutches

- if the fiber plates are worn it will start to feel like you are slipping the clutch at high rpms ... as they get more worn you get to the point where the bikes doesn't move (bike started, in gear, clutch lever out, bike can't climb a little hill, revs up, but no move) ... this does not sound like your problem.

- if the metal plates are warped the clutch will drag ... bike started, in gear, clutch lever pulled in, the bike creaps along ... again, doesn't sound like your problem

- the metal plates can also be glazed, clutch will act like the first scenario, but the fiber plate measure out ok ... cheap guys then sand all the metal plates and put it all bake together ... again, doesn't sound like your problem

So ... you probably did not need to buy the clutch plates.

Oh, when you put in a new clutch most guys say to soak the fiber plates in oil ... I just coat them really well with oil ... but very bad to put them in dry (unless it is a Ducati ).

A notched basket will make your clutch not work well, but I've never heard of one so bad that the clutch would not work at all. Basically as you pull the clutch lever that is trying to spread the plates apart, but the notches in the basket make it, well, notchy ... so bad action, clutch will feel kind of jerky even thou you are letting it out smoothly.

Are you saying that with the engine off, bike in gear, pull clutch lever in, can not roll the bike ... but when the engine is running it works great?

Sounds like you are pulling you clutch cover off again ... when it is off, pull in the clutch lever and look down at your clutch, the main pressure plate should move the the right a good amount, maybe 2-3-4 mm. If it doesn't, sounds like something is messed up on the left side where the activator (making up words here) arm goes into the engine.

Not sure with Yamaha's if this wears out or what.

Also I assume you made sure the clutch basket bolt is nice and tight ... the bolt usually has a tab that bends over so I doubt that is it.

This sounds like what happens to bikes with hydraulic clutches when the master or slave cylinder are messed up.

So I'm voting:
- clutch activator (thing that goes into case that arm and cable attach to) is bad
- clutch hub bolt backed off
- heavily notched clutch basket (not cheap)

Good luck!

Bike is off and in gear. Pull in clutch and try to push bike. Bike rolls a small distance and then stops. Just like I didn't pull the clutch in.

The clutch kit was fairly inexpensive so I replaced it and the springs at the same time. I don't need a "fancy" clutch so I just got a Tusk one for like 60 bucks.

The basket isn't "notched". Like I said, I can feel it, but it wouldn't hang up the plates.

I pulled the "actuator", properly called "push lever", though I like your termonology better earlier today. Everything there looks good.

I pulled out all the plates, put it in 2nd, and put the plates in one at a time, checking to see if I could roll the bike each time. I could, though it got harder and harder.

I readjusted the clutch cable again. This time I set it much tighter.

I put it all back together, and same thing, nada. I put some oil in and ran it till it was warm, pulled the clutch and put it in gear, no problem. Then I turned it off with it in first and pulled the clutch in and it rolls fine. Next I pulled the clutch in and kickstarted it no problem.

I'll see what state it is in when it cools back down.

Before I adjusted the clutch cable it would open the pressure plate a few mm when I pulled the clutch.

Thanks!

Mark

 

[mweitz]

Well, when it is cold it sticks, but if I put a little energy into it, I can move it and it frees up quite a bit, then it is fine for a few pushes.



Mark

 

[OaklandF4i]

If it doesnt "stick" when warm, I wouldnt worry about it. It could be a number of things... the basket or hub (what your steels move on) being one of them (but you already checked that). I've had a number of clutches that do this - my Husky still does this until it warms up.

My guess is one of two things....

You missed something on the the hub or basket that is causing it to hang up. Open it up and actually look at it actuate dry with the side case off to confirm. The material is pretty soft and it doesnt take much to make a plate stick.

Or the plates simply arent assorbing or retaining enough oil after its sitting to overcome the friction between the plates when cold. When the motor warms up it circulates the oil, and whallah there is enough lubrication where either the plates have less friction sticking them togethor or to overcome any stickyness the on the hub or basket. If you havent already, you could try and soak your friction plates in oil for a couple of days to see that makes any difference.

Bottom line, it works when warm and thats all you really need.

 

[ItsOverJohnny]

I can tell you for sure its the basket. It is notched. Have experienced your symptoms many times.

 

[Ironbutt]

Take all the adjustment out of the lever and cable.. adjust at the engine and work your way back to the hand lever. That is the correct way to adjust a clutch.