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Build Thread: 74 GT-750

Last call!
The guy is in town and will take the tire to Sonora likely the weekend.
Text me if you want it.
559-288-1490
 
i have a set of unknown gxsr forks in my garage that i know are very obsolete. they might be 1100 forks. if you can tell me how to distinguish them visually and want em, they're yours for the taking.
 
The thing about the Newtronics,
you won't have a problem down the road.
I've had one in my old Yam triple for 8-9 years?
still perfect .
You should drop by a bike shop and just get a take off tire.
we have some 170's here, but the shipping would be silly to pay.
although, I know a guy who lives in Fresno and Sonora both who would take it to you.
he's in town this week too. I'll email him.

I tried all the local bike shops, the one that does sport bikes said he'd just dumped all his tires the week before.

appreciate the help
 
i have a set of unknown gxsr forks in my garage that i know are very obsolete. they might be 1100 forks. if you can tell me how to distinguish them visually and want em, they're yours for the taking.

They'd be USD Showa's, 41mm and longer than... <off to measure> ~738mm/29" (almost dead on) from axle bolt center to the seam at the top of the leg and the cap

Appreciate the offer, keep me posted
 
I'm not sur Re what an axle bolt is, but it is lunch time and I am a bit fogbrained.

From the axle centerline to the tube/cap seam is 28 3/16

From the axle pinch bolts to the same seam is 29 1/8

they're definitely showa forks, and I do have triples and a single 4 piston Nissin caliper to match.

caliper bolt spacing is around 62-63mm

maybe I should just put this junk on my goldwing and embrace the trendiness.....
 
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From the axle centerline to the tube/cap seam is 28 3/16

From the axle pinch bolts to the same seam is 29 1/8

axle/axle bolt, potato po-tat-o

yours seem shorter, interesting. That is extended/unloaded length yes? I measured the GT forks, 30 3/8" - 770mm so I'm def going to be lower, about an inch and a quarter just on forks, and then the difference between original 19" to the 17" rims - which prob isn't a good thing with 3 pipes hanging not so much underneath. Heh, at least it'll keep me off the side of the cases...

All Balls bearings just arrived a few ago, off to swap the steering stem

IMG_1033_zps2yz1xc0y.jpg
 
Big Dave of the mountain picked up your clapped out tire just a few minutes ago.
He will be in Sonora Sat (?) and goes thru Columbia a few times a week.

He belongs to the UK Suzuki club so if ok, may want to take a few pics of your project for the blokes over there.

He has your contact info.

It takes a village.
 
You da man, thanks again. Enjoyed the FB page. Just back from the shop getting the steering stem handled. Off the the gay-rodge to do some mounting. Dropped off the GS1100 tail section at the body shop to get the mounting tabs all fixed up, I'm tired of looking at it not being ridden.
 
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axle/axle bolt, potato po-tat-o

yours seem shorter, interesting. That is extended/unloaded length yes?]

yep. Sitting on a bench

there exist extended fork caps, like lift shoes for short people. The wisdom of using them I am unsure of, application specific, but in this case we are talking about an inch or 2... I'd run em.
 
yep. Sitting on a bench

there exist extended fork caps, like lift shoes for short people. The wisdom of using them I am unsure of, application specific, but in this case we are talking about an inch or 2... I'd run em.

I did not know that. http://www.traxxion.com/Extended-Showa-Fork-Cap-for-GSXR/ Thanks for the pointer.

eta: http://www.cycleoneoff.com/Photo_Album.html

Guess it's cheaper than buying another set of forks.

Turns out, as best I can tell, that the newer K series GSXR's had shorter forks than the old series. Mine are 92's, would assume yours are newer just due to length
 
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So the All Balls steering head bearings are in and new front end is grafted on. Removed the original steering stop. Had the lower triple with stem in the freezer during, grabbed it after about an hour and using a drift I installed the dirt seal and set the lower bearing with a drift. Then installed the top race, it nearly just dropped in. A bit of light tapping with the hammer on the supplied thick washer that I laid over the top bearing edge to seat it and it was done in about 10 seconds. I've never had one go in that easy. Bottom went in easier.

An hour or so of fiddling with fit and eyeballing things and checking the fit the filthy dirty GSXR front end was bolted up.

Had the frame up on the centerstand and some 2x4's holding the front up. Put the front end work stand back underneath the steering stem, lifted the bike, pulled the 2x's out and dropped it down onto the front wheel. ooooohhh ahhhhh

Wanting to tackle the new wiring harness, but need to get it all together first, I only want to do that 1x. Probably going to be giving this guy most of my business: http://easternbeaver.com/Main/main.html

Next up is installing the rear sets while I wait for pipes to come in sometime before the 22nd. Ordered the pipes without the hangers welded on, but included in the shipment. The GT pipes attach to the passenger footpeg hanger which is going to disappear from the frame, so I'll need to look into how to best hang them once they arrive.

Cardboard and wood rearset mount mock ups until then.

Looking forward, I'm going to be adding some rigidity to the frame as well, so I can mockup the bracing with cardboard to make templates.

framemods.jpg


A and D (as I recall) are in there stock, so I'm going to be adding B, C and E. E is somewhat handled already by the rear pass peg extensions, so I need to see what work, if any, I need to do there

good progress so far this week on the GT, trying to keep the momentum going.

Early in the week I sold the kart chassis and then used the money to buy a way cheap/way beat chinese 150cc (gy6) motobike/scooter that a local guy was selling on FB. I "need" a pit bike for next year, and now the trusty Tank Urban Sporty can be thrashed around at the track without a worry. Most of the body work is broken/cracked and its being held together (not so well) with superglue. As I take the bodywork off to get to the wiring various superglued pieces just fall onto the garage floor. Its like a leper losing its skin. Going to patch it all back together again with epoxy and zipties, it'll look like frankenstein when its done.

So the scooter wasn't running, the seller had zero clue about how to fix it and just wanted it gone. So I drug it home and right to work on it. Suck, bang, blow baby. Its got compression? check. Spark? hmmm nope. After a bunch of multimeter work and Youtube videos on spark problems I'm thinking it's an intermittent flywheel pickup that I'm chasing. Had it working but now no spark again. Eff. CV carb was all fouled up, the slider was suck firm so I tore it out and blew it all out. Slide is all nice and slippery now, jets are opened back up. Verified the fuel pump is pumping. Need to log another 30 minutes and check for wiring issues between flywheel pickup and CDI before pronouncing verdict against the $6 pickup. Amazing how inexpensive the parts are for these things. $8 for a CDI, $20 stators, $5 ign coils with wire... Makes sense to drop less than $40 for all new electrical system having the CDI/stator/pikcup/coil shipped to my doorstep regardless of what the current problem is.
 
If you can do it, I'd suggest another plate reinforcement at the "A" area instead of just triangulation. It's the most critical area. It will make the coils hard to get to, but give you extra rigidity.
A trick my Z1 has is larger diameter and harder grade engine mount bolts and thicker mounting plates.
 
If you can do it, I'd suggest another plate reinforcement at the "A" area instead of just triangulation. It's the most critical area. It will make the coils hard to get to, but give you extra rigidity.
A trick my Z1 has is larger diameter and harder grade engine mount bolts and thicker mounting plates.

A is already done by the factory, but I need to look closer at it again to make sure. The frame is actually pretty well put together, most all of the reinforcement areas are boxed by the factory vs just a single welded plate

The one that I didn't catch in the photo above is the vertical bars on F, where the radiator lives, need to see what I can do there. Also for D I need the cross X, but the horizontal bar underneath is already in place. Not necc a prob since I'm going to be putting a plate in front of the batt box to mount the coils and, if I end up running the Super BN carbs in place of the CV's, a small fuel rail. So that X-bar with a plate over the top will act as support and a mounting face.

Photo of the stock frame, you can see the boxing for A (yes, that is the radiator fill and cap at the top of the frame just behind A) , boxing for E although a bit lower than what the mocked up image shows, and the horizontal part of D:

blueframe.JPG


Today is starting slow. I've been researching Visio schematic tools for the last day or 3 to put together a really good wiring schematic for the bike. I want to redo the entire harness of old, brittle wire and I also need to mate the newer Suzuki controls on the handlebars into the harness. I've got an old GSXR harness that came with the roller to pull the needed mating connectors off of. And I want to run an upgraded high power headlight so I'll need to be adding relays in to power it, along with a more modern R/R for better juice and reliability and all the wiring for it.

So I'm recreating the stock wiring schematic in Visio to both get used to using the software as well as creating something to start modifying as I implement the changes. Hopefully I can get it to build me a BOM of the amounts of various colored wires in the right sizes along with the needed connectors to get a single order in that will get me everything I need in one shot. Good inside work for when I'm not feeling it in the garage and need to step away for awhile to let various ideas percolate.

Couple of links that I found helpful for harness design:

http://www.neweagle.net/support/wiki/docs/Harnesses/Harness/Harness_Drawing_NE_1.pdf
http://www.neweagle.net/support/wiki/docs/Harnesses/Harness_Creation/Harness_Drawing_V1.0.pdf
http://www.neweagle.net/support/wiki/docs/Harnesses/Harness/Harness_Construction_NE_2.pdf
https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/aa227607(v=vs.60).aspx

So with that ^ info, along with the Eastern Beaver info/tools I'm feeling in pretty good shape there. Did 5 years in the Navy as an aviation electrician in a helicopter squadron, so wiring and schematics stuff is pretty familiar to me. I can learn the circuit design issues along the way. It's just having access to the right tools and connectors that I need when the time comes.

I dropped off a stock tail section for the GS1100G that had broken mounting tabs and has been sitting for about 3 years now at the shop that does my paint work earlier this week, gave them the heads up about the GT coming their way "real soon now" lol.

Kinda close to what I'm heading for wrt more modern looking spoke wheels:

gt750mooiw.jpg


Tre sexy TR750:

yamaha-bakker-330-w400.jpg


This guy did a clean job with his, but I don't care for the black cases/cylinder. He did a custom oil tank, and I can't remember what the fairing is from, Ducati maybe? it's in his build thread but I *hate* his dash:
Suzuki-GT750-6.jpg


This guy did a great job for the most part with his, a couple of things that have been on my "If I ever build one it'll have this" list that he got to before me - fuel rail and 9" GS1150 "train" headlight:

sean-eviston-GT-750-large-17.jpg


off to the gay-rodge, more when I know it
 
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You can get a modern concave radiator pretty cheap these days. The ZRX guys use them and they sure look better than the stock brick wall looking thing.
Ebay will get you some inexpensive modern cooling fan motors with blades too.
 
You can get a modern concave radiator pretty cheap these days. The ZRX guys use them and they sure look better than the stock brick wall looking thing.
Ebay will get you some inexpensive modern cooling fan motors with blades too.

If I thin the radiator out then the case ends will be sticking out, and people will mistake it for a 2 stroke CBX :laughing

Interesting idea though, I'll have a look, thanks for the suggestion

Haven't heard from your boy yet, but plenty to do in the meanwhile
 
The bad news finally hit today. Been waiting on the rear tire showing up, so I was just puttering around. Since the pipes are off I said "hmm I can look up the exhausts and take a look at the cylinders and at least some of the piston, lets see how much wear..." Grabbed a flashlight and turned the motor over slowly with a wrench on the timing end of the crank. Bit of blowby on the L cyl that I can see bubbling in the rings, new rings might help there. Middle looks like a piston with 27k on it, nothing huge but nothing great.

R cylinder is seized, all sorts of fat streaks of graphite looking crap on the intake side of the cylinder wall. Puts a damper on the inaugural blast up and down the road once it's all back together. Not a huge problem, but now I'm certain that I'm left with 1 less oversize available. Was hoping to avoid a top end rebuild right away, but it would have been done anyway at some point. Meh.

On the hunt for a 520 conversion with an offset front sprocket. Trying to figure out if the front sprockets use a standard Suzuki cutout pattern to see what other models might cross over and fit the beast.
 
have you contacted Sprocket Specialists?
they did a lot of offset, weird stuff back in the day, they may have the specs to make up a set for you. most of the odd ball stuff they make to order anyway. few days and they pop it right out.
Maybe even APE in Rosamond. They might have a contact if you talk to one of the old timers.
Or look in the UK, they still do a lot of odd ball stuff.

You may have already seen this old mega-thread. I know there is info on offset sprockets in there somewheres.


http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1157739
 
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