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The Ultimate DRZ-400SM Thread - Mods, Tips and Tricks

stan23 said:
Jeff,

My forks and shock are out to get a full treatment at www.evolutionsuspension.com

suspension.jpg


I get my bike back in a week, and i'll report my findings. I'm going to revalve and respring both the forks and shock.

Tonight, I installed my new 520 non-o-ring chain and little things here and there. I can't wait to get my bike back in a week or so.
Click to expand...


I have that poster!
 
It's my roommates, but I saw that poster when I was like 10, and thought that may be something I can accomplish by 25. :p
 
Thanks Stan.
Regarding the poster...you better hurry! :laughing
I'm working on that too :deadhorse
 
Anyone ever hear of a 3/4 or 1/2 turn throttle for the DRZ? I'd like to be able to get to full throttle sooner but 1/6 sounds like it would be way twitchy for a daily rider. And no, I didn't search TT, kthxbye.
 
The DRZ comes with a 1/4 turn throttle. The 1/5 or 1/6 turn throttle will get you there with less wrist action that the 1/4 turn.
The DRZ is a 40 horse power bike (on it's BEST day), so there is no issue with the faster throttle being too twitchy. That's what I was talking about in my previous post.
If you read a few posts back, you will see that the '03/'04 R-1 throttle assembly is just the ticket, and about $13.00.
Give it a try. If you don't like it, you're only out 13 bucks and a half hour. But you WILL like it, I promise. Especially if you have an FCR on there :)

Lonster

Edit: see post #35
 
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Stan, You my friend, have excellent taste in motorcycles :thumbup
 
Ohhhhh, OK, I was thinking that the R1 was 1/6th that of the DRZ so I will go out and order one soon :) I assume it is like any other sportbike where I can remove the grip and install just the throttle tube?

Lonster said:
The DRZ comes with a 1/4 turn throttle. The 1/5 or 1/6 turn throttle will get you there with less wrist action that the 1/4 turn.
The DRZ is a 40 horse power bike (on it's BEST day), so there is no issue with the faster throttle being too twitchy. That's what I was talking about in my previous post.
If you read a few posts back, you will see that the '03/'04 R-1 throttle assembly is just the ticket, and about $13.00.
Give it a try. If you don't like it, you're only out 13 bucks and a half hour. But you WILL like it, I promise. Especially if you have an FCR on there :)

Lonster

Edit: see post #35
Click to expand...
 
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You CAN, but why bother. Just put the whole assembly on and see how you like it. Why make more work for yourself?
After you have run it for a while, if you absolutely MUST change the grip, then have at it.
If you look at my pictures in the previous posts, you will see what the installed part looks like.

Lonster
 
Someone please clarify. Is it the 2004 R1 or 2004 R6 throttle tube that is 1/6 turn and will interchange with the DRZ400SM?

I found 5SL-26240-00-00 for the 2004 R6 and 4YR-26240-01-00 for the 2004 R1.
 
tlthehun said:
Someone please clarify. Is it the 2004 R1 or 2004 R6 throttle tube that is 1/6 turn and will interchange with the DRZ400SM?

I found 5SL-26240-00-00 for the 2004 R6 and 4YR-26240-01-00 for the 2004 R1.
Click to expand...

4YR-26240-01-00 for the 2004 R1

Either one should work, but the R-1 is the 1/6th turn unit. I have no experience with the R-6 throttle assembly.

Lonster
 
Lonster said:
4YR-26240-01-00 for the 2004 R1

Either one should work, but the R-1 is the 1/6th turn unit. I have no experience with the R-6 throttle assembly.

Lonster
Click to expand...

Ordered one yesterday, I'll have a report after next weekend (not going to have time to install it before the Dec 8th Motard ride). I'm going to go ahead and leave the grip on to test it out. If I like it I'll tear the grip off and put my old ones back on. I've never installed a throttle tube, are there any tricks to it or should I just read the manual?
Thanks,
-Garret
 
paroxysm said:
Ordered one yesterday, I'll have a report after next weekend (not going to have time to install it before the Dec 8th Motard ride). I'm going to go ahead and leave the grip on to test it out. If I like it I'll tear the grip off and put my old ones back on. I've never installed a throttle tube, are there any tricks to it or should I just read the manual?
Thanks,
-Garret
Click to expand...

Nothing special, I just did this last Friday and what a difference, Thanks to Lonster for posting about this one. Don't forget to order the left side to match. I was on my way out of San Jose Yamaha when I realized I needed the other side to match the R1 throttle assy.
 
wikidklown said:
Nothing special, I just did this last Friday and what a difference, Thanks to Lonster for posting about this one. Don't forget to order the left side to match. I was on my way out of San Jose Yamaha when I realized I needed the other side to match the R1 throttle assy.
Click to expand...

I only ordered Right :)
 
Posted by Kenny (Kenrock1000) on ThumperTalk. Thanks Kenny!!

Smog Cannister Removal (How to) - For California SM models....(I think S models too ??)

Once I took this stupid cannister out, I realized how easy it was and what a problem it was causing.

As Most of us know...when you overfill your gas tank...raw gas is being drawn to your smog cannister (On ALL California bikes) and is causing the bike to act as if it were out of gas. Next...you'll get it started and then it will run fine for a mile or two and then die again. Well...this little cannister is your problem! For all those that need help on removing it....here is a "master post" if you will (mimicking Burned's 3X3 post) ...Along the way are a few pics I hope helped out...let me know it I missed anything or if you need a better shot.

Okay, first order of busniess...unbolt that ugly black/greyish cannister from under the rear left area of the sub-frame. There will be two lines running to the front of the bike.

DRZremoval002.jpg

The line with the black wrap around it (also has a red stripe on it) goes to the fuel shut-off valve. Take this line completly out including the fuel shut-off valve.

The other line goes to the carb. Follow this line to that carb and remove it all. Cap the nipple on the carb where that line went.

Heres the angle at the fuel shut-off valve

DRZremoval001.jpg

The line that is cut in this picture is the line that goes up to the in-tank vent valve. This line needs to be routed under the bike (preferably under the swingarm like most dirtbikes).

If you need a vacuum diagram...look on the frame on the left side...

DRZremoval003.jpg

Thats it people! Now that line that runs from the petcock to the carb....leave that in and your petcock will function normally (leave it on "ON"). You wont have to fidget with that being on the "PRI" position. The owners manual actually says to NEVER leave it on PRI anyway.

DRZvalve.jpg
 
Dion, did you find the post about locktite-ing the output shaft/primary drive sprocket nut? It's a must do as well.
 
Lonster said:
Dion, did you find the post about locktite-ing the output shaft/primary drive sprocket nut? It's a must do as well.
Click to expand...

Great, now every phantom noise my engine makes will be because I haven't Loctited my primary drive gear nut.

Looks like you have to remove the right engine cover to get to it and possibly the left engine cover to have a nice way to keep the crank from turning.

Clutch replacement time would be the most convenient but I have a feeling I'm going to get talked into doing it the next time I change the oil.

How prevalent would you say the problem of the primary drive gear nut coming loose or perhaps having been improperly torqued at the factory is?

Please note that according to the manual, the primary drive gear nut is left hand (reverse; clockwise to remove) thread.
 

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I got my R6 throttle tube today, and i'll install it tomorrow to see if it makes any difference (not that I can ride the bike right now w/o forks and shock) :)
 
paroxysm said:
I only ordered Right :)
Click to expand...
Haha, if you don't mind a mismatch it's kool I guess.

stan23 said:
I got my R6 throttle tube today, and i'll install it tomorrow to see if it makes any difference (not that I can ride the bike right now w/o forks and shock) :)
Click to expand...
Stan, it gained my bike another 50HP:rofl J/P but it does fell a lot better. No mo' double twisting or elbow pointing down. A+ on this mod.
 
wikidklown said:
Haha, if you don't mind a mismatch it's kool I guess.


Stan, it gained my bike another 50HP:rofl J/P but it does fell a lot better. No mo' double twisting or elbow pointing down. A+ on this mod.
Click to expand...

As soon as my bike is broken in, I'm going with the R1 throttle body switch.

Last night I removed the canister crap via Kenny's advise, + I added peg sliders that I had in my tool box from awhile ago.
 
WHOA WHOA WHOA!!!!!! :wow
Dude, I'm talking about the nut that holds the front sprocket on. No engine disassambly required.

Lonster


tlthehun said:
Great, now every phantom noise my engine makes will be because I haven't Loctited my primary drive gear nut.

Looks like you have to remove the right engine cover to get to it and possibly the left engine cover to have a nice way to keep the crank from turning.

Clutch replacement time would be the most convenient but I have a feeling I'm going to get talked into doing it the next time I change the oil.

How prevalent would you say the problem of the primary drive gear nut coming loose or perhaps having been improperly torqued at the factory is?

Please note that according to the manual, the primary drive gear nut is left hand (reverse; clockwise to remove) thread.
Click to expand...
 
I also just ordered steel lines and reflective yellow rim tape. Rim tape adds performance.
 
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