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The Ultimate DRZ-400SM Thread - Mods, Tips and Tricks

Welp, my project DRZ is still coming along the way. Forks and shock are still at Evolution, but I decided to mount up some new rubber, so I can have the bike ready to go and do a test and tune. I figure, i'll take it out for a buttonwillow trackday and use that as my as my test, since the first round will be indeed at buttonwillow.

The DRZ is gonna go on a major diet in the next week. I'm also going to cut off 1/2" from the ends of the bars, so I can have a tad more stability on the high speed stuff. I had that done on my SXV and it transformed the bike to be very solid at 80+ mph.

Also looking at getting a new 4.5" rear rim, so I can fit 160 tires (more tire choices)

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DRZ owners don't forget your case savers!
 

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Dion Rides said:
As soon as my bike is broken in, I'm going with the R1 throttle body switch.

Last night I removed the canister crap via Kenny's advise, + I added peg sliders that I had in my tool box from awhile ago.
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Awesome, youl like it:thumbup
 
I was just about to recommend the buddy peg eliminator, when I noticed that it's NLA! That sucks - it gives a nice clean elimination of the passenger peg without losing the exhaust mount point. I'm glad Slydrite tipped me off to getting one a few months ago.
 
I did notice a slight difference in response when I took off the canister. I can't wait for the jet kit to come in which I think will really make a difference. I'm only going Stage 1 and not getting an aftermarket exhaust.

wikidklown said:
Hey what HP gain do I get with the blue reflective tape?
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Any blue rim tape that was made after 2003 has to have CA. emmissions equipment. You may want to remove all that suff if you want to peak performance out of your rim tape.

That's why I went yellow rim tape, which is 50 state legal without the emmissions crap on it.
 
Dion Rides said:
Any blue rim tape that was made after 2003 has to have CA. emmissions equipment. You may want to remove all that suff if you want to peak performance out of your rim tape.
That's why I went yellow rim tape, which is 50 state legal without the emmissions crap on it.
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OIC:laughing Thanks dude, I'd have to go wit the yellow one too then
 
Also, don't order the R6 throttle tube - It does not work correctly :cry. I'm gonna go back and order the R1 throttle.
 
stan23 said:
Also, don't order the R6 throttle tube - It does not work correctly :cry. I'm gonna go back and order the R1 throttle.
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Stan, what was the problem with the R-6 tube? Is it hitting on the throttle stops?

Lonster
 
well i came home tonight to having the throttle tube sitting on the kitchen table. i followed the cutting guidelines the same as when applied to the SV650 (http://people.tamu.edu/~redaggie03/Sv650 Portal/Write-Ups Page/SV R6 Tube.htm)


the one on the left is the R6 one
picture001aq5.jpg

marked it
picture003ih1.jpg

cut it
picture004gd0.jpg


installed it
picture005ps7.jpg


the twist seems to be noticably shorter than the stock FCR-MX 39 which is an 1/8 of a turn more than stock :bonk:

fully closed
picture006xp3.jpg


fully open - i didn't have to tuck my shoulder in to get the full twist :D
picture007gr8.jpg


i didn't get to ride it yet but i'm sure tomorrow i'll have a lot of fun on the way to work. :D
 
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Lonster said:
Stan, what was the problem with the R-6 tube? Is it hitting on the throttle stops?

Lonster
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When I first buttoned it up, the throttle would not rotate. Then I realized that I was hitting some sort of stop, I re-loosened the throttle and rotated the tube a few milimeters up, and the bike would not start. It seems the tube was holding the throttle open by a half inch.

I could not get a right combination at all..

I'll grind off part of the tube like the pic shows and try it again tonight.

Thanks all!:ride
 
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I stole the post from TT...lol

paroxysm said:
FrigginChi said:
well i came home tonight to having the throttle tube sitting on the kitchen table. i followed the cutting guidelines the same as when applied to the SV650 (http://people.tamu.edu/~redaggie03/Sv650 Portal/Write-Ups Page/SV R6 Tube.htm)

/QUOTE]

Link to the guide one more time? Thats a forbidden site (for me anyway...). Also, what kind of mirrors are those? I bought dual-stars and can't seem to get them setup just right.
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Lonster said:
WHOA WHOA WHOA!!!!!! :wow
Dude, I'm talking about the nut that holds the front sprocket on. No engine disassambly required.

Lonster
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The "primary nut" issue that receives so much attention on ThumperTalk is not the one that holds the front sprocket on...
 
On subsequent SM Techdays (please, somebody in the East Bay host one!), for DRZ's how about we focus on the primary nut fix and swingarm pivot shaft re-greasing?
 
Here's a great thread on Thumpertalk discussing the 'why's' of doing the countershaft sprocket loctite fix.
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=582434
It's a bit technical at first, discussing the original thoughts and theories, but read it anyway. It all makes sense, and it's pretty easy to do.

Lonster



Lonster said:
Right! I was refering to the 'counter shaft' sprocket issue:
#15 here: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=207448

You are refering to the 'Primary Nut' issue here:
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324503&parentpage=2

I hope this clears it up,

Lonster
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Well, I installed my R6 throttle tube, after a bit of trimming and it works great! Of course, I still haven't really ridden the bike yet (still waiting for forks and shock to arrive) but I can see how this mod would be helpful for me next year at the races.
 
Phase 1 complete!

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As next year draws closer, i'll remove all the street stuff, install the Marchesini wheels, re-gear, full safety wire and it should be pretty close to my final vision.
 
Look'n good Stan. Let me know how the suspension work went (mostly the front) and the results.

I noticed the front brake line not in the stay though...
I know, you knew...:teeth
 
I rode the bike today, and it is nice. Stiff, but not too stiff. Feels nice and planted in the corners. Side to side transitions are very smooth and predictable. None of that 'squirrly' feeling on the stock setup. Very little brake dive. Still working out the kinks, but it's a step in the right direction. You are more than welcome to try it out.

Oh, and the old brake line was too short, so it didn't fit on the stay. Here's the new brake line :)
 

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Cool, looks great Stan. Bring it to the next sm ride?!
It's looking like I'm not going to make it to the new years track day though:x
So what oil and springs did you go with?
 
Jeffrey Jay said:
Cool, looks great Stan. Bring it to the next sm ride?!
It's looking like I'm not going to make it to the new years track day though:x
So what oil and springs did you go with?
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Stans set up is still in the early stages, I'll probably be making some changes as things progress. At the moment in the forks we've gone for the stiffest springs we could find off the shelf in the right size (.54 kg/mm) but may need to go stiffer (custom). The valving is Race Tech valves with a supercross stack but that'll need some work to make it better for the street.

I'll be doing the same work on my DRZ to speed up development. It's not in Stans budget just yet but I'm looking into making some triples that will give me better geometry - more sportbike than dirtbike. I'll post up as things progress.
 
Cool, thanks. I think the stock fork springs are .44 and .46 is available, I was thinking about going that route. Greg shot some great shots at the last hammy ride and it appears I am riding higher in the stroke than I thought.
I still would like to see how Stan's set up works out first though.

Oh, it seems we share the same Snap-On dealer, Bob says good things about you as well. I'll have to stop by next time I'm over there.

Jeff
 
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