60's Honda CL 160 Rebuild as Racer

[netjustin]

When you're done waxing your spoke can you mail them 2 me?

 

[FelixP]

I've developed a bunch but it all depends on what you're cleaning, and what's on it. For the engine, for example, I've used a combination of sand blaster, angle grinder (with wire brush), hand drill with various wire brush attachments, sand paper, Scotch Brite pads, Dremel with various attachments, wire brushes, brake parts cleaner, carb cleaner, Q-Tips, screwdrivers (for scraping off the thick buildup of road grime), sharp little dowels to get in tiny places, parts washer...and that's probably it. Oh, wait, and razor blades and a wood chisel for the ancient petrified gaskets.

For the rims I mostly used the wire brush on the angle grinder and the dremel, but I also treated them to 2 different rust removing chemicals.

The hubs I did with some fine grit sandpaper.

I used a lot of paint stripper, of course.

My best tool has got to be patience, though. I have spent dozens of hours removing rust and dirt at this point.

And lastly, you gotta know when to just chuck something if it's beyond saving.

Cool. Any recommendations as far as Dremel attachments go?

 

[maskmarney]

Your photos are helpful...

I have a 1974 Honda CB450 that once looked pretty(see attached photo), but has never run especially well. It was, in fact, the bike on which I learned to ride 4 years ago, but because of innumerable, recurring mechanical problems I stopped riding it, and moved on to a 250 ninja and later a ZR7, my current bike. In any event, the old Honda now needs pretty substantial work in order to run again, and I have found your photos and also your cleaning and rebuilding techniques very helpful as I begin this work.

 

[Cereal KLR]

If you are ever in San Mateo area, we can true the wheels.

 

[twitchmonitor]

If that's an offer to help out (since I can't afford to pay to have it done) I can be in San Mateo

 

[killfile]

Next problem: this is my cam chain sprocket, it's practically toothless. A guy on another forum found a replacement 70's Kawasaki Z1 part that can replace it. Its steel. I'm going to order it on Monday. Another few bucks I don't want to spend but if the cam chain skips a tooth my engine will likely grenade. $80 worth of insurance seems like a good deal.

#1 Item on preparing a CB350 (yes I'm still rattling on about a different model) is to replace the cam chain and cam chain tensioner with a similar product. Running stock honda cam chains/tensioners appears to only be advisable for a single season before replacing them....

 

[Cereal KLR]

That is an offer to help Mr.Twitch. PM me when you can be over this way and we will get it done, and you can meet a guy that has lots of 160 tricks (from the sixties) you might be able to use with yours.

 

[twitchmonitor]

That is an offer to help Mr.Twitch. PM me when you can be over this way and we will get it done, and you can meet a guy that has lots of 160 tricks (from the sixties) you might be able to use with yours.

PM sent

 

[Cereal KLR]

PM replied.


* broke racer trick, 450 cam chain tenshioner works just fine*

 

[twitchmonitor]

After much cleaning and polishing/lubing of pivots I got the brakes back together. I cleaned up the link on the front brake some time ago as it was nasty with rust and then clearcoated it to keep it from getting that way again. I'm protecting nearly every sq. mm of steel that's exposed - don't want to have to go through this again down the road.

Then I examined my selenium regulator/rectifier. There was melted rubber all over it, and from my reading it seems that when selenium regulator/rectifiers go they get very hot. I'm on the fence about what to do with this guy, I'll have to think about it some.

Sorted out my cables. My rear brake line and my clutch line are good, but I need replacement cables for the throttle and front brake.

I also found this strange bolt in my bad of front brake parts. It does not appear in the parts diagram and doesn't seem to belong in the brake. Still gotta find where the bugger goes. But look at those threads!! I tried to clean them up buy my 8M1.25 die is garbage and would only mess it up more. That's what you get with a $20 Harbor Freight tap and die set.

 

[twitchmonitor]

And painted the belly pan.

 

[Stormdragon]

tifier. There was melted rubber all over it, and from my reading it seems that when selenium regulator/rectifiers go they get very hot. I'm on the fence about what to do with this guy, I'll have to think about it some.

Sorted out my cables. My rear brake line and my clutch line are good, but I need replacement cables for the throttle and front brake.

You don't need a rectifier if you run a total loss ignition system. Just a thought...

 

[twitchmonitor]

You don't need a rectifier if you run a total loss ignition system. Just a thought...

But I'm still entertaining the idea of streeting it too. Decisions, decisions. :|

 

[geronimoto]

street it too! then we can race them in the city streets.

 

[killfile]

I also found this strange bolt in my bad of front brake parts.

I can't get a good sense of scale from the photos, but that looks like a rear brake plate to brake stay bolt? If I remember correctly they are typically cut on one edge like that on Hondas to prevent spinning and loosening?

That's all I can suggest until I have time to look at our 160.

 

[twitchmonitor]

Bingo! Good call, thanks. Now to unmangle it....

I can't get a good sense of scale from the photos, but that looks like a rear brake plate to brake stay bolt? If I remember correctly they are typically cut on one edge like that on Hondas to prevent spinning and loosening?

That's all I can suggest until I have time to look at our 160.

 

[twitchmonitor]

Cool. Any recommendations as far as Dremel attachments go?

Buy a combination set, it'll cost less than buying them individually. I frequently use the little wire brush, metal ball grinder, and abrasive disk/cylinder attachments.

 

[twitchmonitor]

I misunderestimated what it would take to get the engine ready for a rebuild. I think I'm really finished with the cleaning this time now that I finished all the transmission pieces. I may need to find a few tiny replacement parts but I'm close.

Then it was time to renew my motivation so I put the "rolling" chassis together. So far, so good.
(Yeah, I know the front wheel is on backwards... )

 

[twitchmonitor]

While I was working up some new drawings for some parts I found this. I meant to post it, guess I forgot.

 

[firstbuell]

keeping the cable-driven speedo?

any sanitary way to make that b'wards F brake operational?

if so, please do that - most bikers won't notice, while those who do
are likely to see the more legit trix on your build