TheRobSJ
May lose 10mm sockets if distracted
You find it on a Ford. It's called an intertia switch. But again, don't worry about it because they're found on Fords. No (unmodified) Honda has one.
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CAR won't start after distributor cap and rotor replace??
- Thread starter drod23sf
- Start date
You find it on a Ford. It's called an intertia switch. But again, don't worry about it because they're found on Fords. No (unmodified) Honda has one.
TheRobSJ
May lose 10mm sockets if distracted
If the spring isn't there, or if it got tweaked so it doesn't stick straight up from the coil...all bets are off whether the engine will run.
damian
AFM #76
Pull a plug connect it to a wire, lay it on the motor. Have someone turn the key. Make sure you have spark. No spark = bad ignition control module and or coil. Hondas are notorious for those two items going bad. They are both in the distributor. If the timing belt isn't broken, or skipped. Im 98 percent sure, that you have a bad icm or coil... Trust me I work on cars for a living.
So the rotor spins with out the cap on.
Tested the new cap to make sure is not bad, distributor cap constatunity is fine.
Coil reads 11.78 Volts is not at a solid 12 volts tho.
Spring still there.
Tested for spark with the old spark plugs and ground them to the engine ground and no spark with all 4 spark plugs?
Timing is not off because pulleys spin all the way, and so does the distributor rotor.
No codes, since engine light hasn't come up either.
Some how the distributor/distributor cap is not sending the spark to the plugs, we where trying to test constantunity on each end of each wire and got nothing. Can it be that they are bad wires? My friend replace them 2yrs ago and they are NGK wires, so I didn't replace them thinking they are still good, was thinking of buying a new set and see if this fixes problem?
Car only has 148K miles for a 98 CRV
Can it be a bad coil? and if so should I replace the coil or might as well do the whole distributor?
Tested the new cap to make sure is not bad, distributor cap constatunity is fine.
Coil reads 11.78 Volts is not at a solid 12 volts tho.
Spring still there.
Tested for spark with the old spark plugs and ground them to the engine ground and no spark with all 4 spark plugs?
Timing is not off because pulleys spin all the way, and so does the distributor rotor.
No codes, since engine light hasn't come up either.
Some how the distributor/distributor cap is not sending the spark to the plugs, we where trying to test constantunity on each end of each wire and got nothing. Can it be that they are bad wires? My friend replace them 2yrs ago and they are NGK wires, so I didn't replace them thinking they are still good, was thinking of buying a new set and see if this fixes problem?
Car only has 148K miles for a 98 CRV
Can it be a bad coil? and if so should I replace the coil or might as well do the whole distributor?
Warren, yeah that's what its leading to be, now should I just replace the coil or replace the whole distributor? What would you recommend on doing since I'm replacing the old parts with new ones I was thinking might as well go all new.
I thought you said in the first post that you replaced the wires... in any case...
Possibly bad wires, but *probably* not all of them.
You now know there's no spark at the plugs, the thing to do is backtrack: can you get a spark from the wire that goes between the coil and the distributor?
And BTW, is the little button in the middle of the inside of the distributor there and is it kinda springy when you push it in with your finger? I've seen them get stuck. (I've been assuming that the spring under here is what you had lost, but I'm asking just to be clear:
... Wait a minute ...
Does this mean that if you
1) take the distributor cap off, then
2) grab the rotor with your hand, then
3) turn the rotor
A) the rotor turns?
Or does it mean
1) if you take the distributor cap off, then
3) turn the key and try to start the engine
B) the rotor turns?
If it's B), OK, it should do that. If it's A) that's not good and I'd start to wonder if the rotor is the right part (or if it's broken).
Possibly bad wires, but *probably* not all of them.
You now know there's no spark at the plugs, the thing to do is backtrack: can you get a spark from the wire that goes between the coil and the distributor?
And BTW, is the little button in the middle of the inside of the distributor there and is it kinda springy when you push it in with your finger? I've seen them get stuck. (I've been assuming that the spring under here is what you had lost, but I'm asking just to be clear:
... Wait a minute ...
Does this mean that if you
1) take the distributor cap off, then
2) grab the rotor with your hand, then
3) turn the rotor
A) the rotor turns?
Or does it mean
1) if you take the distributor cap off, then
3) turn the key and try to start the engine
B) the rotor turns?
If it's B), OK, it should do that. If it's A) that's not good and I'd start to wonder if the rotor is the right part (or if it's broken).
I'd replace what's worn out or what's nearly worn out. The distibutor doesn't sound bad so far.
damian
AFM #76
My best friends wifes 98 crv lost teeth on the t-belt and still turned the rotor. Line upTDC on the crank pulley ( bottom one ), then make sure that the rotor is pointed at the # 1 spark plug wire in the cap. If that checks out correctly, chances are timing is good. Then pull the distributor. Inside under the black cover there is a little module with 3 wires connected to it 2 screws. Take it out, bring it and the coil ( out of the distributor ), to auto zone and have them test both units. Replace which ever is bad, or both. Way cheaper then new distributor.
TheRobSJ
May lose 10mm sockets if distracted
Omg. Just replace the coil and igniter. And be done with this.
B the little button in the middle does go down, I was testing for voltage where the spring sits but got nothing.
I thought you said in the first post that you replaced the wires... in any case...
Possibly bad wires, but *probably* not all of them.
You now know there's no spark at the plugs, the thing to do is backtrack: can you get a spark from the wire that goes between the coil and the distributor?
And BTW, is the little button in the middle of the inside of the distributor there and is it kinda springy when you push it in with your finger? I've seen them get stuck. (I've been assuming that the spring under here is what you had lost, but I'm asking just to be clear:
... Wait a minute ...
Does this mean that if you
1) take the distributor cap off, then
2) grab the rotor with your hand, then
3) turn the rotor
A) the rotor turns?
Or does it mean
1) if you take the distributor cap off, then
3) turn the key and try to start the engine
B) the rotor turns?
If it's B), OK, it should do that. If it's A) that's not good and I'd start to wonder if the rotor is the right part (or if it's broken).
Ok thanks, going to try to do this today after I get out from work at 4
I talked to my friend that previously owned the car and he said he had all the belts replace around 90k
let me tell you about my 95 civic.
the brass screw that holds the rotor is stuck so I striped it. rotor has been there for 250k miles.
timing belt was last changed at 140k. it has 255k now. I checked it recently the teeth are starting to round off but still ok.
synthetic fluid since first change. this car won't die. it still handles well due to double wishbone all around. rear arm bushings are SHOT though so the rear is starting to do weird things.
I'll always have a honduh for a beater.
the brass screw that holds the rotor is stuck so I striped it. rotor has been there for 250k miles.
timing belt was last changed at 140k. it has 255k now. I checked it recently the teeth are starting to round off but still ok.
synthetic fluid since first change. this car won't die. it still handles well due to double wishbone all around. rear arm bushings are SHOT though so the rear is starting to do weird things.
I'll always have a honduh for a beater.
engineboy
Active member
Just FYI, I replace belts all the time that show NO wear anywhere on the belt, looks like new.....but they still get weak and strip the bottom when you go to start it or shut it off. I have a belt at the shop that you can still read the pt number on the back of it, looks great, had 110k on it. Missing 12 teeth at the bottom and bent all the valves in the engine.
The problem is the belt itself rarely gets obviously weak looking and breaks completely. I would say 90% of the time the teeth strip out at the crank pulley, so the belt still looks good.
I personally would Never go by how a timing belt "looks" always go by mileage or age (7 years) if you want it too last.
Yes, I have seen belts go 145k with a 90k interval. I have also seen belts strip at 102, with a 100k interval and do 2000 dollars worth of head damage.
Obviously its your car and you can do with what you wish, but dont think for a second that timing belt companies are just trying to get your money by saying an early or short interval.
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damian
AFM #76
Just FYI, I replace belts all the time that show NO wear anywhere on the belt, looks like new.....but they still get weak and strip the bottom when you go to start it or shut it off. I have a belt at the shop that you can still read the pt number on the back of it, looks great, had 110k on it. Missing 12 teeth at the bottom and bent all the valves in the engine.
The problem is the belt itself rarely gets obviously weak looking and breaks completely. I would say 90% of the time the teeth strip out at the crank pulley, so the belt still looks good.
I personally would Never go by how a timing belt "looks" always go by mileage or age (7 years) if you want it too last.
Yes, I have seen belts go 145k with a 90k interval. I have also seen belts strip at 102, with a 100k interval and do 2000 dollars worth of head damage.
Obviously its your car and you can do with what you wish, but dont think for a second that timing belt companies are just trying to get your money by saying an early or short interval.
My boys wife's crv stripped teeth on the freeway. I took it apart and lined up the marks. Knowing dam well the head was fu--Ed! But I felt bad for her. I threw a new belt on it, and that shit runs like a charm. No CEL no misfire!!!! LOL!! But she is Irish and prays a lot!!!!
engineboy
Active member
That does happen, if it shuts off in the right spots its a winner
artyI had a 4 cam subaru the other day, usually they always bend valves. This one didnt....I always do like you did, just slam a belt and hit the key.....if it runs, great, if they dont.......more work for me
