CAR won't start after distributor cap and rotor replace??

[fast4d]

damn. now I'm afraid to drive it. I don't care if the car dies but I hate getting stranded on the road. time for a new belt and pulley or I should just sell it.

Just FYI, I replace belts all the time that show NO wear anywhere on the belt, looks like new.....but they still get weak and strip the bottom when you go to start it or shut it off. I have a belt at the shop that you can still read the pt number on the back of it, looks great, had 110k on it. Missing 12 teeth at the bottom and bent all the valves in the engine.

The problem is the belt itself rarely gets obviously weak looking and breaks completely. I would say 90% of the time the teeth strip out at the crank pulley, so the belt still looks good.

I personally would Never go by how a timing belt "looks" always go by mileage or age (7 years) if you want it too last.

Yes, I have seen belts go 145k with a 90k interval. I have also seen belts strip at 102, with a 100k interval and do 2000 dollars worth of head damage.

Obviously its your car and you can do with what you wish, but dont think for a second that timing belt companies are just trying to get your money by saying an early or short interval.

 

[engineboy]

damn. now I'm afraid to drive it. I don't care if the car dies but I hate getting stranded on the road. time for a new belt and pulley or I should just sell it.

I wouldnt sell it, but if you did the belt at 145 and it now has 255 you have 115ish on the belt, I would say if its still a good car and you like it, just replace the belt/tensioner/water pump since its a little over due and call it a day

 

[Sharky]

That does happen, if it shuts off in the right spots its a winner arty

I had a 4 cam subaru the other day, usually they always bend valves. This one didnt....I always do like you did, just slam a belt and hit the key.....if it runs, great, if they dont.......more work for me

My buddy's scirocco back in the day lost a timing belt, bent all 8 exhaust valves (something like $70 each) and was a long push to the shop. My 8 valve rabbit mill dropped a valve and still drove 80 miles back home. Had an old head and swapped it out. If it wasn't for the blowby from the new and improved compression that motor would have ran forever!

 

[nine_inch_rear]

12 volt test light. One end clipped to ground or neg side of battery. Probe side to neg side of coil. Crank engine. Light pulses dim to bright- good. No pulse, bad igniter. No light, open in coil or more likely voltage supply problem going to coil.
Thats all you need for the DIY'er. Any more than that, youll need a pro on it. Dont be surprised if you have no codes stored

 

[nine_inch_rear]

Just to add, I think that "pen" spring sits on a small conducting peg. If the peg cracks, it wont fire. Go to honda, look at the parts screen of all that supposed to be there.

 

[engineboy]

12 volt test light. One end clipped to ground or neg side of battery. Probe side to neg side of coil. Crank engine. Light pulses dim to bright- good. No pulse, bad igniter. No light, open in coil or more likely voltage supply problem going to coil.
Thats all you need for the DIY'er. Any more than that, youll need a pro on it. Dont be surprised if you have no codes stored

Another igniter test is watch the tach.

Every one I have had over the years that had a bad igniter wouldnt bounce the tach while cranking.

If the tach bounced, igniter was good, if it just layed there, it was bad.

 

[drod23sf]

So I switched the coil & relay and it's up and runnin again, thanks for everyone advice/s/tips/suggestion/s I really appreciate your help.

 

[damian]

Took ya long enough..