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Front Brakes

t0rqued

t0rqued

noobz|
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Location
Berkeley/SLO
Moto(s)
06 F4i
Name
Jim
So I changed my brake pads several weeks ago, and went really light on them to let them "seat" properly (i dont know about how well i did or if this is even required). Anyway, after about a week I started trying full braking and doing quick stops to get comfortable with the new pads, and I would get really bad shudder in my front end, and the stopping power was much less than with my old pads... so I bled my lines just to cover that base.. it helped, but not very much. So I've been led to believe that it's my rotors, and I'm not disputing that fact (but I'd love it if someone could point me in the direction of some other less expensive issue) but it doesn't make sense that after changing a pair of pads the rotors would magically become warped when they worked beautifully before the change... anyway, just looking for some knowledge...
thanks

I'll be ordering new rotors this week, a master cylinder from a 954 (which fits right in on the f4i apparently), and steel brake lines, and new pads since I assume that the ones i put on with the supposed warped rotors are ruined possibly, and i dont want no heathen black magic on my new rotors
 
Just another thought....when was the last time you checked your headstock bearings at the triple? Are they at proper torque spec?
 
I'd check the runout of the rotor with a dial guage 1st. You might be able to rent one from a local parts store.

I imagine the old brake pad material that was deposited on the rotors is not working well with your new pads. I'd take the rotors off and get them media blasted for a fresh start.
 
never, I will tomorrow :thumbup what does this have to do with stopping power, just out of curiosity?

where can i get this media blasting done?
 
You need to be a bit more aggressive with pad bed in. Progressively harder stopping is fine, Just don't overheat them to the point you get fade.
 
Green Scotch Brite pad and rubbing alcohol. Should clean them up nice. Don't scrub in one direction but back n forth crosshatch like.
 
yeah I've been riding pretty aggressively the past couple days, including some very hard braking (as good as my bike can manage anyway) would this aid in the bed in? or should I remove them and then re-bed them, or is that not how it works?

I'll try that tomorrow too 2nsane
 
A. What were your old pads. make model and type
B. What are your new pads, make, model and type.
C. If your new pads are organic and your old are sintered, that's why they suck. You have to clean the rotors of all the sintered skank.
D. If the new pads are skanked up, just sand them on a flat surface with fine emory paper. That's all you have to do. Emery, not sandpaper.
 
afm199 said:
A. What were your old pads. make model and type
B. What are your new pads, make, model and type.
C. If your new pads are organic and your old are sintered, that's why they suck. You have to clean the rotors of all the sintered skank.
D. If the new pads are skanked up, just sand them on a flat surface with fine emory paper. That's all you have to do. Emery, not sandpaper.
Click to expand...


ooooooooooooooooooooooohhhhhh, you know i like this idea, I can't tell you what the old ones were because they were originally on the bike when i got it, I'm sorry to say that I tossed them when i changed the pads, and as I'm sure you all can tell I'm not too versed, but I do know that my current pads are organic. Can this Emery you speak of be obtained at Orchard?

heres a link to my new pads,
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.co...5-Sport-Front-Brake-Pads.aspx?WT.ac=SLIsearch
 
New pads may not mate properly if your disc has record grooves... to remove
the old grooves spin the disc on a Lathe and apply a rubber faced rotary sander...

RC45 Disc Sanding...
423834488_35781b3ed8.jpg
 

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ill be trying one of these to fix a similar problem in a few days. wait til next weekend to order new parts and ill let u know how it goes.

btrh-10pix.09.jpg
 
t0rqued said:
ooooooooooooooooooooooohhhhhh, you know i like this idea, I can't tell you what the old ones were because they were originally on the bike when i got it, I'm sorry to say that I tossed them when i changed the pads, and as I'm sure you all can tell I'm not too versed, but I do know that my current pads are organic. Can this Emery you speak of be obtained at Orchard?

heres a link to my new pads,
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.co...5-Sport-Front-Brake-Pads.aspx?WT.ac=SLIsearch
Click to expand...

Sintered pads work by depositing material on the rotor. Organic pads work by ablating rotor face. When you use organic AFTER sintered, the sintered material prevents them from working well. I suggest you remove the rotors and have them cleaned by bead blasting. Not sand The spec sheet on those indicates they are sintered metal though.

DO NOT APPLY a sanding disc to your rotors, as an earlier poster mentioned. Either bead blast or use a flat hone. Also most modern discs are so thin that it's better to leave the grooves in, you can't really remove enough material before the rotors get too thin. Turning rotors down is old school and not appropriate any more.
 
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In any case, I suggest you have the rotors bead blasted and buy some emery paper at the hardware store. 200 grit or so. Then put the paper grit up on a flat surface and rub the brake pad against it till you clean it up. Takes a couple minutes per pad. You can use some water as lube if you want with emery.
 
F4 and F4i frequently develop this problem at one time or another even with all stock, original components. Only bike I know of that does this fairly consistently. The rotors are not warped and don't need replacement.
You don't need a lathe or even a drill to do an outstanding job of scrubbing your rotors, just use a Scotchbrite pad and scrub radially while turning the wheel by hand or, if you have a drill and a Roloc disc, be careful. It does not take much to put a nice cross-hatch on them.
Anyway, it's usually the pads that are fubarred, not the rotors. Put them on some 400 grit emory cloth and a piece of glass if you got it. Scrub em flat on the concrete garage floor otherwise. :laughing You can try chamferring the leading and trailing edges too.
Sometimes even after all this, it just needs a different brand or compound pad to erase the friction co-efficient mis-match and it's all gone, like magic. :party
 
Those pads look like low quality. If you like the stock pads? Why not buy some?

Or just go with what works, EBC, there not the best or worst, but there pretty good.:thumbup

t0rqued said:
ooooooooooooooooooooooohhhhhh, you know i like this idea, I can't tell you what the old ones were because they were originally on the bike when i got it, I'm sorry to say that I tossed them when i changed the pads, and as I'm sure you all can tell I'm not too versed, but I do know that my current pads are organic. Can this Emery you speak of be obtained at Orchard?

heres a link to my new pads,
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.co...5-Sport-Front-Brake-Pads.aspx?WT.ac=SLIsearch
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for all the input guys, it's much appreciated!
They got acceptable reviews on mc-superstore and I was already putting in an order, if nothing works ill be obtaining EBC pads
 
As far as bedding in, you want to get some HEAT into the pads. Don't baby them.
 
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