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Jetting question mid-range flutter

ScottRNelson said:
If you're going to buy a kit, get the one from Factory Pro. Stay away from DynoJet. With Factory Pro, you'll get standard Keihin jets in 152, 155, 158, and 160, so you'll have the right size for whatever your bike needs. It also includes a 52 pilot and a needle with five clip positions so that you don't have to mess around with shims to move it up or down. You'll have to snip off a little piece of plastic in that piece that holds the needle in place in the slide, then you're set.

You aren't the first one to break the plastic piece that holds the choke in place.

The only significant difference in doing what Factory Pro suggests and "Dave's Mod" is whether you drill out the holes in the slide or not. I didn't bother doing that to mine. It's supposed to make the slide open a little bit quicker when you first crank open the throttle, but I haven't felt the need for that on my bike.
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Just sent an email to Factory Pro to see what they have in stock. Since I am working in SF this week, I may just run by the shop if they have a kit in stock.

I haven't heard back, but looking at their website again..."Absolutely no carb parts sold in California"...
No bueno.
 
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I was actually able to track down some jets at my local Honda dealer. I should have a chance to install and test them in the next few days and report back.
I am going to hold off on getting the entire factory kit for the moment (since about every swinging dick on ADVrider and most guys here are solving jetting issues like with with a 52 or 55 slow jet and 158 main. I can make a needle shim if I need to.).
 
Sharky said:
I was actually able to track down some jets at my local Honda dealer. I should have a chance to install and test them in the next few days and report back.
I am going to hold off on getting the entire factory kit for the moment (since about every swinging dick on ADVrider and most guys here are solving jetting issues like with with a 52 or 55 slow jet and 158 main. I can make a needle shim if I need to.).
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Glad that you could handle it. :thumbup

I have an open airbox and a pipe on mine and a 158 main is on the rich side. I was going to switch it to a 155 after the engine rebuild, but since it now has 10.5:1 compression I left it with the 158 to help protect the engine a bit from detonation. Consider that a 155 might be slightly better, but with what you're doing it should run pretty good.
 
ScottRNelson said:
Glad that you could handle it. :thumbup

I have an open airbox and a pipe on mine and a 158 main is on the rich side. I was going to switch it to a 155 after the engine rebuild, but since it now has 10.5:1 compression I left it with the 158 to help protect the engine a bit from detonation. Consider that a 155 might be slightly better, but with what you're doing it should run pretty good.
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Well, to update...got the jets in my hot little hands and ran home to install. The mains I got were the wrong style (tall versus short). Pretty sure now that I have had it apart a 3rd time, I won't forget way they look (online its a toss up on model year which gets which and I couldn't tell in the store today.

I did get the appropriate slow jet and it appears to be working quite well. Bike fired right up hot or cold and initial throttle response was pretty good. There's still the flutter that started all this, but I am not surprised as the main jet is still stock. I am going to pop back by and see if I can get the correct style and maybe pick up a 155.
Overall, happy about how this went today as a baby step forward is better than a giant step backwards.
 
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Got moar jets, this time they are the right style. Unfortunately, they didn't have a 158. I got a 155 and 162. I opted for the 162 since that is apparently what pro circuit recommends along with the 55 slow jet. Installed this evening. Seems to run, but I couldn't warm it up and test it without waking up my wife, kid and neighborhood. That will have to wait for tomorrow. Besides I should be registered by then.

Not rushing, I'm down to 23 Minutes start to finish to swap jets if I start with the side panels off (lol).
 
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Sharky said:
Not rushing, I'm down to 23 Minutes start to finish to swap jets if I start with the side panels off (lol).
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I can swap both wheels that quickly, but the carburetor takes me longer. You'll have to show me your technique.
 
ScottRNelson said:
I can swap both wheels that quickly, but the carburetor takes me longer. You'll have to show me your technique.
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I still have plenty to learn. The air box to carb section on mine is pretty pliable so just pull that back, twist and come out the right side.

I had a chance to do a test ride. Much nicer roll on response. Most of the flutter is gone (there's still a slight hint if I WOT from off idle). I've been told by some
I might have to learn to live with a little of this as such are things with. CV carbs.

The bike is a little bit of a pain to get into neural. Can't figure if its a clutch adjustment issue or maybe needs a different weight oil. Overall, happy with how it runs and the ten mile test ride went off with narry a hitch.

Thanks for the help guys. I might still shim the needle, but I might also leave well enough alone for now.
:thumbup

Oh and the bike is now registered and insured as if today!!!
 
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And so it begins. Death by 1000 cuts. So, riding my XRL I figured I should replace the clutch when I change the oil. The lever travel seems pretty narrow, friction wise, and slips when I adjust it out (I was adjusting to see if I can get neural easier). Can't hurt to start with a fresh one anyways right?

Then, I notice a few drops of oil under the bike. Since I bought it I didn't ride it until the last few days and that revealed what appears to be a little oil leak at the stator cover...I figure, might at well fix that while I'm changing the oil too.

Oh well, just something else to work in next week.
 
Sharky said:
So, riding my XRL I figured I should replace the clutch when I change the oil. The lever travel seems pretty narrow, friction wise, and slips when I adjust it out.
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Mine has always had a narrow friction point and has been grabby. Been that way for the past 16,000 miles. I'll replace it when it starts slipping when I'm riding.
 
Sharky said:
And so it begins. Death by 1000 cuts. So, riding my XRL I figured I should replace the clutch when I change the oil. The lever travel seems pretty narrow, friction wise, and slips when I adjust it out (I was adjusting to see if I can get neural easier). Can't hurt to start with a fresh one anyways right?

Then, I notice a few drops of oil under the bike. Since I bought it I didn't ride it until the last few days and that revealed what appears to be a little oil leak at the stator cover...I figure, might at well fix that while I'm changing the oil too.

Oh well, just something else to work in next week.
Click to expand...

Reminds me of my VFR thread. This... now this... nickel and dimed to death.

Good thing it's easy to fix those leaks. Clean off old gasket, use RTV copper gasket maker and be done with it. I don't mess with OE gaskets unless it's a head or thick rubber gasket. All paper gaskets I've replaced using the above product.

Honda clutches are finicky like SRN stated. If it slips, then you probably only need friction plates and maybe springs. Maybe with just springs you can get the OE clutch solid again--at least for time being.
 
ScottRNelson said:
Mine has always had a narrow friction point and has been grabby. Been that way for the past 16,000 miles. I'll replace it when it starts slipping when I'm riding.
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I generally agree, except with my luck it will start slipping in the morning of day one of the Sheetiron. Cheap insurance. Clutches for these aren't very expensive and I'll be changing the oil/filter anyways.

Just me paying for some peace of mind at a minimum.
 
Weirdly, the oil leak at the stator gasket solved itself. I rode the bike 50 miles today with no leak. I assume the gasket just was dry from sitting and sealed itself back up once it got wet. I do believe the bike largely sat for a number or years prior to me buying it.
That's was I get for buying a Honda!
If it was my KTM it would have gotten worse (lol).
 
Hit the wall and Mt. diablo.
Bought it home and gave it a bath.
 

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Changed out the clutch/oil and front brake pads.
Thing shifts sweet now. No trouble finding neutral like before.
Going to bed the brakes in tomorrow and ride on Sunday!
 
As a jetting update.
The bike is running quite well with good throttle response. A 150 mile mixed dual sport ride (backroads a few hours of dirt riding and some freeway) returned 50 miles per gallon. I'll take that. For reference, the jettin is 55 pilot/162.5 main. Snorkel removed and an fmf Q5 slipon. Stock gearing and everything else as far as I can tell.
 
Wow you're running a 55 pilot and 162 main

Stock is 50 pilot and 152 main.

I'm running a 52 pilot and 155 main, stock header, slip-on FMF exhaust, Uni air filter, starts and runs great but I only get 38mpg city and 45mpg highway.
 
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mototireguy said:
Wow you're running a 55 pilot and 162 main

Stock is 50 pilot and 152 main.

I'm running a 52 pilot and 155 main, stock header, slip-on FMF exhaust, Uni air filter, starts and runs great but I only get 38mpg city and 45mpg highway.
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I did start on the fat side on purpose and was going to scale back, but the bike seemed to run good and the mpg is better than expected. I have to admit I didn't ride it as hard as I could have, so the mpg may adjust down. Lots if guys on adv rider run 55/158. Pro Circuit (I said fmf earlier) recommends 55/162 for their slipon.

In any event, seems close enough to me and with the new rubber I just installed is smooth going on the freeway (especially compared to my KTM).

It also seems that these are all a bit different/despite being "identical" and people have differe results with different settings.
 
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Just ran another mileage test. Average mixed freeway and side road mileage netted 51 Mpg.
Also accidentally found out how far I can go before hitting reserve. Apparently my Clark 4 gal tank will do 3.3 gallons before hitting reserve.
 
The best I've done is about 45 mpg. One of these days I'm going to open up the carburetor and drop the metering needle a notch. I'm sure the mileage would benefit from switching the main jet from a 158 to a 155, but that extra bit of richness seems to protect the higher compression piston in there. Besides, I can use more than four gallons before hitting reserve on mine. :cool
 
Wow Aaron..... thats fantastic mpg. I've never gotten that high regardless of where or how I ride it. 55/155 oem header and pipe. Offroad I am usually in the low to mid 30's and maybe 40ish if toddle on the highway at 65mph. Stock gear ratio.
 
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