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Losing traction on bumpy corners

Cool; does the bike have a steering damper?

I'm guessing it should.

Scott's are the best allegedly, but there are fine cheaper solutions I'm sure members on the Multistrada site can recommend based on their personal experiences.
 
interesting; i don't know anything about steering dampers. googling around, i see that there's the "option to add one" but it doesn't come stock.

I do know the 07' base model which I have has "fully adjustable" Marzocchi's in the front and fully adjustable Sach's shock in rear.

edit:

on another forum i read the following: "You are correct. The purpose of a steering damper is to reduce/eliminate left-right handlebar oscillation. However, "tank slappers" generally don't just "happen". They are either caused by some mechanical problem (underinflated tire, loose steering head bearings, loose swing arm bearings, etc.) or they happen on an aggressively ridden machine that also happens to be blessed with radical steering geometry. Most bikes do not come with steering dampers because they are simply just not needed.

Unbroken motorcycles with a tendency to have the bars oscillate back and forth when their front suspension is unloaded usually have very radical suspension geometry designed to change direction quickly. I.E., they are usually sport bikes and they are inherently unstable in situations where the front wheel is lightly loaded. In fact, they are usually Japanese sport bikes.

Ducati's are "generally" considered to be very stable due to slightly longer wheelbases and more relaxed steering geometry than some of the more track oriented Japanese supersport machines. That is not to say that a Ducati is never in need of a steering damper. Among recent models, a 1098R or Desmosedici (MotoGp bike for the street) would probably benefit from a steering damper when ridden in anger but a Multistrada, with it's more relaxed steering geometry and longer wheelbase is more of an all-round street bike and is not designed to be cutting edge or nervous from a handling perspective.

I do not know what model machine you own on which you experienced a "tank slapper" but it would be interesting to learn more about your experience if you choose to share it with us. "
 
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Getting a background that establishes a reason of basis for an opinion, is a toughie :laughing because you have to sort through so much crap to get there.

Dampers and tank slappers and what's going on, is a huge item in the crap dept.

Try this, if you want to shorten the learning curve (or don't do anything if you don't give a rip).

Get a Scotts damper, and feel what it does. If you don't think it was worth it, just for what it does every day, in everyday calming of everyday moments, then you must be the slowest bike rider on the planet :rofl

You don't have to have a tankslapper event. No one knows (ahead of time) if they are ever going to have one. Gobs of riders don't have one.

A rider can have one on the most "non-likely" bike to have one.
You don't have to be that rider, unless you "rationalize" yourself into the reasoning it takes to make mistakes.

Gobs of riders do this, They rationalize reasons to not wear a helmet (in the states that don't have a helmet law) or not to wear protective gear garmets (it's too hot or uncomfortable or God know what).

It's your life, the screw ups, screw you up, not someone else. Bothers others, screws you up, you can find someone saying anything. If you just look for an opinion to read, until you find one you like, you can find that. Getting your own opinion is way more effort (but usually way more fun) :cool
 
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I do not know what model machine you own on which you experienced a "tank slapper" but it would be interesting to learn more about your experience if you choose to share it with us. "

The TL with its geometry and wheelbase definitely benefited from a steering damper (as do most sportbikes ridden with verve) and the only other bike I've ever had a tankslapper on was the longish wheelbase K75S when I got my Fox Shock. Seems the dealer ordered the wrong shock and it came with the stiffer spring for the K100 instead of the lighter K75. Had a tankslapper from hell on it, on the gas as the front tire hit some bumps, (perfect tankslapper scenario), due to the overly stiff rear spring.

When the proper spring was put on I never had another one on that bike despite having San Jose BMW do engine work on it that dramatically increased power and even though it did not have a steering damper.

My F800ST came stock with a steering damper and it does not have extreme sportbike geometry.

You'd have to ask folks with Multistradas if a steering damper makes any sense on that bike.

My DRZ400SM does not have one and I've never had the bars shake in my hands on the gas over bumps so as of now I'm not going to add one.

Louemc's ZX10 is a prime candidate for a steering damper though he has indicated he's had tankslappers on "relaxed" geometry bikes.

Your results may vary due to bike and riding style differences, but tankslappers are scary events that require a steady throttle hand and a relaxed grip to survive them...you DON'T want to chop the throttle...at least that's been my experience.

Here's a thread from BARF on Tankslappers:

http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=248129&highlight=tankslapper
 
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Louemc's ZX10 is a prime candidate for a steering damper though he has indicated he's had tankslappers on "relaxed" geometry bikes.


The "relaxed geometry" bike that had the slapper that put my heart in my mouth, was my Harley FXR -Sport, It only did it once. Never a hint of doing it, before it did it or doing it again after doing it.

The time it did it was at casual 55 mph on hwy 101. Going straight, nothing happening to cause it.

One of City Bikes editors had the simular thing happen on his BMW going straight on 101, and out of no where, the slap (he never had a wobble on that bike before) self fed into the violence of tossing him off the bike at 55 MPH. (which put him in the hospital). Anyone want to check out how that goes? jump out of your car that is doing 55 MPH and you will get the experience.

On my ZX-10 (which got the Scotts damper on before, I give the bike the workout to set-up my suspension) I have also (after the damper) steepened my forks, for preparing that bike for tight twisties, so that gives an added reason for having it (but I'd have it anyway :thumbup).
 
just read the MTS forum. the dominant opinion there is that the MTS doesn't need it and you'd be better spending on suspension set up or upgrades and that actually the damper can cause a reduced amount of nuance in responsiveness on twisties.

one interesting comment was: "Problems with instability should be fixed before putting on a steering damper because the damper could hide the problems.

Chassis pitch, the relationship of the front and rear ride height is a major factor in stability. Start off with factory recommendations. From that point, lowering the front or raising the rear makes the bike less stable. Raising the front or lowering the rear makes the bike more stable.

It is possible that raising the front end by raising the triple clamps will improve stability enough to not need a steering damper. There are other factors affecting stability, and be careful during first ride after changes because the handling can be quite different."

http://www.multistrada.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15574&highlight=steering+damper
 
"Reduced amount of nuance in responsiveness" is just another way of saying the biker that said that, used a crap Damper. (That would be any damper that wasn't a Scotts)

Not all dampers are created equally, they don't work the same.

Who said there was a "problem" that needed fixing. A "problem" that was being covered up? That's another thing that you will hear a lot of, but..... like I said, if you look hard enough you will find someone saying anything.
 
Wow. Was 97 the first year for the TL? If it was bad enough to cause tankslappers, that's something that should have been fixed by the factory pretty quickly.

Had a TL1000.....in my mind a wine before its time. They did provide a fix for it and later one for the puter and fuel tank. Unfortunately the fix was a pos dampner that bolted, in part, to the radiator so evey time you wanted to lift the tank you had to unbolt the unit instead of just the two bolts in front of the tank. I finally tossed it and installed a Wer rotary dampner on the lower tree. bty you definately needed it. Took the original off before a shop ride. Hit a little wash board on first on ramp and it went lock to lock.:wow

The rear rotary shock also sucked. Understood it was because of heat coming off the exhaust.

The final straw was having to repace the water pump shaft 3 times. The seal would leak causing the shaft to pit. The bitch was that it was not an easy fix. From what I understand the sprocket that drove the cam chain was attached to the shaft.

Never buy another Suzuki.
 
It is possible that raising the front end by raising the triple clamps will improve stability enough to not need a steering damper. There are other factors affecting stability, and be careful during first ride after changes because the handling can be quite different."

http://www.multistrada.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15574&highlight=steering+damper


Well, Since you need to learn things, to understand what words mean....

And, nothing can be carved in stone, before you do it, to say how it turns out, But, it is possible that if you raised the clamps on the fork legs (or tubes) you could exerience first hand, what "stability" is. You should find that the reluctance to turn is very dramatic. With any luck you will stay on your own side of the road long enough to get back home and drop the clamps back where they were positioned from the factory.

If you got with the program, and put a Scotts damper on, you would be safe to drop the clamps lower on the fork legs (say 10mm) and ride the bike through some corners and feel how the turning is better than when the clamps were in their original position. And.... not feel any loss of stability.


Then you can post on that Multistrada forum, and give your opinion, based on what you have learned about chassis setup :ride
 
Had a TL1000.....The final straw was having to repace the water pump shaft 3 times. The seal would leak causing the shaft to pit. The bitch was that it was not an easy fix. From what I understand the sprocket that drove the cam chain was attached to the shaft.

Never buy another Suzuki.

Bit of a broad statement about a great brand.

Have had my TL since 1997...haven't replaced the water pump shaft even once...but now I'll bet you jinxed me! :laughing

As you said, and I completely agree, released without proper sorting, but can't really say that about ALL Suzukis.

They make damned fine bikes according to most that own them...but not perfect to be sure, (ie. the tailpiece cracked on my DRZ400SM and fell into the back tire lunching them both...dealer said "they almost all do this after a while"....Suzuki said "it's out of warranty period sucker, eat the cost...and no, we won't make a running fix...so screw the new buyers too.") Still love the little DRZ though.

But a percentage of all owners of ANY bike have "issues."

Can't throw out the baby with the bathwater.
 
Well, Since you need to learn things, to understand what words mean....

And, nothing can be carved in stone, before you do it, to say how it turns out, But, it is possible that if you raised the clamps on the fork legs (or tubes) you could exerience first hand, what "stability" is. You should find that the reluctance to turn is very dramatic. With any luck you will stay on your own side of the road long enough to get back home and drop the clamps back where they were positioned from the factory.

If you got with the program, and put a Scotts damper on, you would be safe to drop the clamps lower on the fork legs (say 10mm) and ride the bike through some corners and feel how the turning is better than when the clamps were in their original position. And.... not feel any loss of stability.


Then you can post on that Multistrada forum, and give your opinion, based on what you have learned about chassis setup :ride

Scotts doesn't make a damper for the Multi.
 
And as with my DRZ Mike you may not need one.

May want to post on the Multi Forum to see if ANYONE has had headshake or tankslap issues with a Multi; if not, save your $$$ for suspension, tires or beer!
 
Scotts doesn't make a damper for the Multi.


Then that means, they don't make the installation kit to fit their damper to the Multistrada.

Little things like that don't stop me :laughing I'm a tool & die maker, Prototype machinist. I make anything I want :thumbup

Have you contacted Scotts, and asked them if they would make an installation kit for the Multistrada, or just looked at a list of the bikes they make them for, and not seeing your bike, gave up?
 
Then that means, they don't make the installation kit to fit their damper to the Multistrada.

Little things like that don't stop me :laughing I'm a tool & die maker, Prototype machinist. I make anything I want :thumbup

Have you contacted Scotts, and asked them if they would make an installation kit for the Multistrada, or just looked at a list of the bikes they make them for, and not seeing your bike, gave up?

I searched Multistrada.net and couldn't find one instance of someone using a Scotts damper, other than lamentations there's one for the Hyper. Have not contacted Scotts yet
 
I searched Multistrada.net and couldn't find one instance of someone using a Scotts damper, other than lamentations there's one for the Hyper. Have not contacted Scotts yet

You dont need a damper for the Multi, just get the suspension properly setup and possibly re sprung. Not every bike out there needs a damper.
 
Sounds like the OP solved 90% of his Multistrada handling issues simply by using tire pressures in proper 36-37psi ballpark instead of his original under inflated 28psi.

The last 10% of suspension tuning can probably be done with the help of a professional and incremental adjustments to the stock suspension. And this depends on the particular optional suspension specs on the bike in question. Some Ducatis have the full bling Ohlins bits and bobs while other models have more conventional less-adjustable suspension components.
 
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