My Emerson Tiger, after about a month of everyday use, getting a little bit dull.
So, in the spirit of Ernest Emerson, I demonstrated coffee mug sharpening.
This is more of “touch up”, or “horning”.
The key is to do the touching up / horning BEFORE the knife gets completely dull.
It takes less than 5 minutes.
It doesn’t remove that much metal from the edge of your knife.
You can keep your knife sharp, without sharpening on the stone, for months.
There is so much BS and misinformation floating around on the net / Youtube.
It's NOT that Emerson knives can't cut straight.
It's THOSE PEOPLE (Youtube knife reviewers), they can't cut straight.
('Cause they don't know how to use the knife.)
This is how I sharpen traditional Japanese knives these days.
Part 1 is about making "URA-OSHI" demonstration.
I do "URA" (the back side / flat side) with my LEFT hand now.
I'll explain why this works better than the traditional way
(which is holding the knife with the right hand, keeping the knife perpendicular to the stone and pushing / pulling),
in the next video.
As for the knife, this is 270mm, in blue#2 steel, by Mizuno Tanrenjo.
These guys are actually the real Japanese sword smiths.
So they don't do "forged in the same way as Katana..." type of Bu*% S&#t advertisement.
Their knives aren't flashy.
They just work.
(After sharpening with Naniwa Chosera 800, 3000, Kitayama 8000, newspaper stropping, it cut through a rolled up towel.)
Build quality is high, REALLY high.
Quick short video of cutting demo, with Benchmade Mini Adamas and Emerson Mini Commander.
*Guest stars : Sebenza 21 & 31
So, simply put, Mini Commander wins in cutting performance every time. Period.
Doesn't matter how sharp an edge you put on Mini Adamas, it's not gonna win.
(But, we all know that by just looking at the blade, right?)
As I always say, don't be fooled by paper cut "test" .
And, DON'T make purchasing decision based on the "type of steel".
I saw someone's video on Youtube, about how to solve Sebenza's "sore thumb" problem.
The truth is, Sebenza doesn't need any mod, to solve sore thumb problem.
Because 95% of the time it's user error.
(Especially, with those who believe "drop shut, free swinging blade" is the sign of quality knives, those who think the folding knives are fidgeting toys rather than cutting tools.)
So, as usual, way too many things going on.
I started filming near 8PM, without any script or shot list.
I Just grabbed two cameras and an audio recorder, and started while drinking my last cup of coffee on Sunday.
(Black Rifle Coffee Company, "MACV Roast".)
The "Green Beret 7", in CPM 4V", is an interesting blade.
According to the "Birth Certificate" card, it is heat treated to HRc 59 - 60, as opposed to S35VN blade at HRc 55 - 57.
Right out of the box, the edge can pop hairs on the arm, but when cutting into the rolled up towel, it cuts only the first two layers.
After stropping, however, it cut a lot deeper, "almost" reaching to the center.
(Sebenza 31 Large, S45VN, was just like that.)Easy to sharpen, easy to maintain is always a good thing.
TNP Endura is still on the factory edge.
It has been doing great. I could have stropped a little sooner, but the blade is still totally functional as an EDC blade.
I will sharpen this on the stone, pretty soon.
So, I have sharpened Chris Reeve Green Beret (CPM-4V), and Benchmade Mini Adamas.
Both of them (4V and Cruwere) are not that difficult or time consuming to sharpen.
Once sharpened up, they cut much, much better (than the factory edge).
Sharpening equipment used
Atoma Diamond plate 400 & 1200
Spyderco Ultra Fine ceramic stone
Newspaper for stropping
So, I wasn't sure if I should post this, or not ... but, in the end, I decided to post, against my better judgement.
You may, or may not know about the recent story of Rick Hinderer threatening small knife maker , trying to sue him.
It was a very unpleasant story to hear.
If you are a fan of RHK, and don't want to hear the story, stop reading, and skip to the next post.
IF, you want to know what's really going on, watch / listen to Knife Junkie's pod cast.
(It starts around 39:40).
To me, Rick Hinderer's move was nothing more than Gangsta / Bully's one.
Also, it clearly shows that he's the kind of person who would try to HIDE & deny the mistakes he has made, rather than trying to correct it.
(And he has a history of doing this, being bully ... this is not the first time.)
Now, totally different subject.
I just made this video, how do I sharpen my working knives. (Uncut, unedited, so you can see how long do I take to do one knife.)
Trying to explain why "traditional" way doesn't work.
Also, this is the true reason why you can't sharpen Japanese single beveled knives with jig / guided system.
So, I was originally going to make another “Don’t blindingly follow the tradition” video.
HOWEVER, my NA6’s battery died, while I was out for glossary shopping.
(If I hadn’t been carrying AntiGravity XP-3, I would have been stranded.)
I almost decided not to make a video today, but … I changed my mind.
Made a short, quick video about how to clean up Japanese kitchen knives with traditional wood handle.
The best tool(s) for cleaning are gun cleaning brush and pics.
The brush can also be used for cleaning fish after cutting out the belly and pulling out the guts.
Probably nobody cares, but this video was shot with different camera (Fuji X-T4), but with the same lens I've been using (1960's vintage Nikon 50mm f1.4, with Peter McKinnon / PolarPro VND fileter on it), in 4K, not 1080P (as I usually do).
And I didn't do any color correction / grading.
USE PLEDGE!
So, the first thing I had to do to this small but very enjoyable knife, is to adjust the kydex sheath’s retention.
It was just *a little* too tight.
What I mean by that, is I couldn’t deploy the blade one hand 4 or 5 out of 10 times.
Scalpels, like Amsler’s, I don’t need to to one-hand draw.
This one, I wanted one-hand draw sheath.
So, I used “Pledge”, on inside of the sheath.
And it transformed the sheath’s drawing action dramatically.
As for the cutting performance, I have no complain.
As you can see in the video (cutting baguette part), it does pretty good job.
Next, I may put some paracord lanyard on the handle and sheath.
Pretty much the entire video was shot on Fuji X-T4, with vintage (1970s) Cannon FD35mm f2 lens (S.S.C, Concave front lens).
(Mostly shot at wide open, with VND on when outside)
Why I insist to shoot full manual vintage lenses?
Because I would look so ugly with modern lenses, especially wide.
This particular lens is great because of 0.3m (just about 12 inches) minimum focusing distance, the color (nice skin tone that hides imperfections), and, the overall “nostalgic feel”.
BTW, 2nd Cam was Sony ZV1. It’s so obvious it was shot on different camera because of the color character differences.
Well, this is Youtube video, not a Netflex movie. This is all I can do, for now.
If you own T4, you know how tiny a lanyard hole is, on this knife.
It’s the smallest lanyard hole I’ve ever seen.
It seems like impossible to put a “useful” lanyard on it.
(Useful, as opposed to decorative.)
These days, I’m moving away more and more from what’s trendy in EDC /Knife community.
No fancy lanyard with decorative knots and beads.
No EDC pouches that makes me look like I’m carrying a J-fame in a pancake holster.
The whole EDC thing has become a giant online fashion show.
(Basically, you purchase gears that are the latest fashion of the year, set them up on a nice table top, take photos with your cool smart phone and post in on Instagram, and complement on each other’s photos / “EDC” set up (that they MAY carry everyday but DON’T use most of the time))
I’m not one of them.
I decided NOT to put a lanyard on Peter McKinnon’s PPK.
I also took off Ulticlip, from the sheath. (I will make a video about that.)
However, I think Tracker T4 really benefits from lanyard, to support pinky grip.
(This reminds me of Detonics Combat Master .45.
There’s no space for your pinky to grip, unless you insert standard 7 round .45 magazine for 1911.)
“Tracker” blade design became famous largely because of 2003 film “Hunted”.
If you haven’t seen it, but interested, you can watch it in the link below, for free.
And now my wife won't touch the knife drawer and instead grabs a cheap, serrated steak knife from the junk drawer. The ones with bent over tips from her stabbing down through frozen cookie dough into the marble counter top.
I made my lunch with TOPS Tom Brown Tacker T4 the other day.
Keep in mind that this is practically a brand new knife, and still on factory edge
(which isn’t horrible, but not really great.)
Overall, this is a fun little knife, can be used for many different applications.
(People who call Tracker blade design as “gimmicky, it’s just a movie prop”, have poor imagination, lack creativity.
Youtube knife contents creators REALLY should start actually using knives instead of boring as hell desk top review and paper cut test.)
I do have a heat gun.
But, I decided to do this with a hair dryer.
Partly because it was already 8:40PM, Sunday night.
And all my tools that I don’t use day to day basis are stored in my garage.
(Which is 15-20 min. away.)
Partly because I like to try improvised method from time to time.
(Right tool for the right job, yes. But we all need to learn how to get by with what we have right here right now.)
Hair dryer works just fine.
It takes longer than heat gun, but not like all night long.
The difference is like 2-3 min with heat gun vs around 10 min. (max) with hair dryer.
With hair dryer, you have to get the sheath very close to the heat source.
With heat gun, you have to be careful NOT to bring the sheath too close to the heat gun.
The sheath retention is perfect now. Just how tight I want it to be.
That makes using this knife even more fun.
He also said, "You put water into a bottle, it becomes the bottle. You put it in a teapot, it becomes the teapot. Water can flow, or it can crash. Be water, my friend.”
Keep these words in mind is WAY more important and helpful than chasing small details, such as
"What brand of stones are best?"
"What grit# should I use?"
(and, WORST of all...)
"What type of steel is the best?"
None of these things matter.
This isn’t really a tutorial video.
Or, maybe it is, in my very unique way…
If you want more typical…
“Use this stone, this grit#.
At an angle XX degree per side, YY degree inclusive,
Aim at ZZZ behind the edge thickness,
Blah, blah, blah …”
… there are tons of Youtube videos available.