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Negotiating with private seller without blowing the deal

I've bought and sold a bunch of sleds. Here are some things I've learned over the years.

As Stan said, show up prepared, ready to make the deal. I've had more than a few people show up, that didn't know what they wanted, didn't know what they were looking at, and seemed to just be answering ads to look at different bikes, not really looking to buy one. If you want to jack off and waste someone's time, don't bother calling. And no, I'm not going to teach you how to ride, or give you my $700 helmet, unless that is part of the deal.

I have had a couple guys ask me what the best I could do is, over the phone or email. I'll tell them. If I knock $300 off over the phone, don't show up and offer me $500 less than that, I'm not that desperate to sell anything.

Do your homework. If there is any question about the paperwork, check it out first. Here is what happened about a month ago. I sold a CT70. Cheap. It had not been registered since 2003. I told him that. He gets here, from Fresno (2 1/2 hours), and I had come down quite a bit on price, over the phone, he rides it, it is just like I told him. He gives me the money, loads up the bike, then punches in the numbers into his phone, and says, the fees are $660. I said, "What's your point?" "Well, what are you going to do for me?" He wanted some money back. Sorry, I'm not going to do anything for you. "Well, I don't think I want it now." Let's see. I told you about the registration. If you would have asked me for the numbers over the phone, I would have given them to you. If you would have done this before you gave me the money, before I wrote a bill of sale, before you loaded them in the truck, I would have had no problem at all. But to do that after everything was done, I felt he was just trying to scam some money out of me. He didn't get his money back. I don't think he really wanted it, he was just playing games.

I've had a couple of people, come to look at something I'm selling, and I'm real honest about the condition, if it needs tires or a valve inspection, I'll tell you, before you come, they come and start nit picking things. I'm pretty fair with my prices, when you start pointing out a rub mark on the paint, or this or that, and I start getting the feeling you are going to beat me up on the price, I'll just say, "I guess you don't want it, see ya."

And I won't pay over blue book, not a penny.
 
And then.... We come to the loan nonsense. My bank requires him to come in and sign the papers over at the branch.

Seriously your bank sucks. Get a new bank. I have applied loans with the bank mailing me a check with X amount and all the info written on the check. I guess having the seller go to the bank with you assures them that you are not handing him a bogus check.

I dont even have a local bank cause everything can be done online now.
 
Edit... seriously, I chuckle when I think back on the times I heard "but I only have $XXXX". Who fuckin' cares? It ain't enough.

+1. I've bought and sold a lot of bikes, so I've heard every sob story out there.

My guide to buying bikes, or anything else on CL:

#1 rule: Show up when you say you will, with cash and a trailer, or ready to ride it home if it runs. CL is full of tire kicking dreamers and no-shows, 90% of your negotiating power is because the seller is tired of dealing with that shit.
#2 rule: it's just business. Don't fall in love.
#3 rule: Always offer less than asking. With a smile and a 'I had to ask' if it's already an amazing deal.
#4 rule: Be polite, and be straightforward. Don't make me wait for 15 minutes to gather your courage. You don't have to show all your cards, but don't play games either. Holding a hard line on your offer isn't playing a game, it's just tough negotiation. Puppy dog eyes and telling me you can't afford more is a sympathy play, good way to piss off a seller. YMMV, maybe your puppy dog eyes are good enough to pull it off.


Other ways to improve your odds:
-Don't send 1-line emails with a lowball offer, or asking 'is it available'.
-Research the hell out of the model before you show up, it'll cut down on annoying questions. But also, so you know what to look for and can spot shenanigans on the bike or in the seller's story.
-Know going in what you're willing to spend.
-Don't tell them their baby is ugly. Always compliment the bike, it won't drive the price up. Don't trash-talk the bike to try to get the price down, but it's ok to point out some reasonable things that will need work if not already disclosed by seller or reflected in price, after you've told them how much you like it. Leaking fork seals, old tires, whatever.
-Always be polite. Life's too short to deal with jerks, and I can afford not to.
 
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I'm pretty sure Stan23 has bought and sold every bike ever made at one time or another. He is the one with the most sage advice.
 
You've all given me a lot of great advice and I am VERY grateful.
Oh, no sweat, OP. You came to the right place for advices. ;)

Old guy here. My best advice is to save up your money until you can pay cash.
TOTALLY!

OP, save and buy cash a bike for $1,500, hone your skills for a year while saving more money, selling it for $1,500 again and buy your $3,000 intermediate bike. Repeat in 2-3 until you have your dream bike.

Concentrate on your training, bikes can come later.
Just curious, how you train without a bike?
 
Exactly. I'm usually FIRM on my pricing since I know the market well and what will something sell for, but I have a soft spot for someone like me who shows initiative.

I got a smoking deal on my R1200GS because I showed initiative.

It was a Saturday morning, the guy was in LA, and I said I can be there in 6 hours. Hopped in the car, and drove to LA right then and there.

Now keep in mind I did feel out the owner, asked him all the pertinent questions, and rolled the dice.


How did you get your car home?
 
That kinda shit doesn't work with me. ....

Do you have a Ninja 250 for sale for 4000?

If not then it doesn't matter. But I guarantee my method works 99% of time with people who are selling Ninja 250s....
 
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I should have specified earlier, that the stipulations of my loan prohibit me from purchasing a bike that is not 2009 or newer and not "within reasonable condition or range of KBB value."

And as far as the reference to training .. I am in flight training.. I sometimes refer to it causally as the majority of my interaction is with people in the aviation community.
 
...Just curious, how you train without a bike?

In the future you may want to at least read the OP's post but if that doesn't work for you you can read the three other posts that already re-stated that the OP is taking flight training.
 
How did you get your car home?

My awesome wife drive it home. She even took a photo of me :)

That is how awesome she is. She can put up with my shenanigans.
 

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In the future you may want to at least read the OP's post but if that doesn't work for you you can read the three other posts that already re-stated that the OP is taking flight training.

Since when reading a BARF requirement, old man?

:laughing
 
I'm probably better equipped to answer this question than 90% of the people here, as I buy and sell a lot of bikes.

As a seller, if i'm asking $4K, you don't want to email me $3K as that will get you on my instant ignore list.

Don't talk price -- yet. Go see the bike, talk to the owner, feel him out. If it is indeed everything he says it is and your gut feeling is telling you to go for it, then ask him if he is reasonably negotiable. Don't just blurt out this is what I have-take it or leave it. That will turn sour real quick. I've declined to sell a bike to someone for $1 less than what i'm asking because I didn't like the guy.

If you stay within reason, i'm certain a $4K asking price bike can become $3650ish.. But the selling price depends on many variables. Like how many responses the seller has, how soon they need cash, market value, etc...

As for getting the cash from a bank vs. straight cash - i've done those too. It's not a big deal for me as a seller.

Totally agree. To the OP, keep in mind everyone is in a different financial situation. Seller might not be in a rush but may also not do well with negotiating either, really up to their attitude and how long the bike has been for sale. $50 to one person is peanuts where to someone else could be insulting - that's all part of the game regardless of what we advise you.

Given the scenario, think of what's in it for them. You want to lower the price AND then have them go to your bank? What's in it for the seller (why should they twist their arm for you)? Maybe you promise him a flight to Harris' when you're done with flight school? A case of beer after the sale? Gift card for two somewhere?

Think of what incentives would help make the negotiating easier. Also factor in DMV registration and taxes =)

As they say, you have to pay to play. :party
 
Considering that you can get a NEW 2015 Ninja 300 for $5k, yes $4k is way too high. Be patient. You've got new bike fever. You're excited. Relax, wait and let the bike come to you. The Ninja 250 is now obsolete, and for $4k you should get one that is pristine, with new tires, perfect paint, fresh oil, fresh brake pads and 500 miles. I might pay $4k for a 300.
 
MSRP for the last year of Ninja 250s was at the $4k point. Anyone advertising for that much is expecting way too much and I wouldn't bother trying with them at all. If anything, I'd expect to pay no more than $3k for a 2008-2012 (new-gen) Ninja 250. Perhaps slightly more now simply because it's the beginning of riding season, but not by much.

An idea is to start taking the money you would be using for your expected (or largest possible) monthly payments and pay yourself in a separate bank account to save for a bike. You might get the cash for a pre-2007 Ninja 250 sooner than you think. I'd expect to pay no more than $1500 for one of those at this point.

Most importantly, have patience when it comes to Craiglist. Good deals come up all the time; you just have to wait for them and be ready. If you just jump on whatever you see though, there's plenty of terrible deals on Craiglist too. Don't let yourself overpay.
 
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MSRP for the last year of Ninja 250s was at the $4k point. Anyone advertising for that much is expecting way too much and I wouldn't bother trying with them at all. If anything, I'd expect to pay no more than $3k for a 2008-2012 (new-gen) Ninja 250. Perhaps slightly more now simply because it's the beginning of riding season, but not by much.

An idea is to start taking the money you would be using for your expected (or largest possible) monthly payments and pay yourself in a separate bank account to save for a bike. You might get the cash for a pre-2007 Ninja 250 sooner than you think. I'd expect to pay no more than $1500 for one of those at this point.

Yup. Might be a market at $2500 but honestly don't pull the trigger at $3500 for this bike, WAIT WAIT WAIT
 
That loan is not helping you.

It's forcing you to buy a newer, more expensive bike than you actually need.
 
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