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Negotiating with private seller without blowing the deal

I'm a new rider, too, and I just bought my first used bike.

Here are the steps I took:

* Find comparable sales in your area on eBay (not Craigslist). Print those out and bring them with you. I bring a binder with me.*
* Make an inspection checklist when you view the bike. Mark down everything that doesn't pass, even little things (tears in the seat, old tires, etc.) and point them out to the seller as you find them.
* Be upfront with the seller: tell him you want the bike, but the average used price in your area is X, and you found issue Y that will cost Z dollars to fix, so you're ready to offer X minus Z.

The Cleveland Moto Podcast had a fantastic episode on how to buy a used motorcycle. I wrote down their advice and posted it here. If you like I can PM you the print friendly version I took with me while bike shopping.


Good luck!


* In my binder: comparable sales, my inspection checklist, and blank bills of sale.



I would not sell a bike to any dork that attempted this crap (lol @ binder).
 
I would not sell a bike to any dork that attempted this crap (lol @ binder).

+1
I would be :rolleyes then :wow and :wtf and probably too busy :rofl to kick your ass out of my garage.....but that would be the end of our conversation. :twofinger
 
I would not sell a bike to any dork that attempted this crap (lol @ binder).

+1

You don't think the seller already knows all the issues with their bike? If you are not comfortable with the price then don't waste the sellers time especially showing them ebay listings.
 
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I'm a new rider, too, and I just bought my first used bike.

Here are the steps I took:

* Find comparable sales in your area on eBay (not Craigslist). Print those out and bring them with you. I bring a binder with me.*
* Make an inspection checklist when you view the bike. Mark down everything that doesn't pass, even little things (tears in the seat, old tires, etc.) and point them out to the seller as you find them.
* Be upfront with the seller: tell him you want the bike, but the average used price in your area is X, and you found issue Y that will cost Z dollars to fix, so you're ready to offer X minus Z.

The Cleveland Moto Podcast had a fantastic episode on how to buy a used motorcycle. I wrote down their advice and posted it here. If you like I can PM you the print friendly version I took with me while bike shopping.


Good luck!


* In my binder: comparable sales, my inspection checklist, and blank bills of sale.

:laughing no.
 
I'm a new rider, too, and I just bought my first used bike.

Here are the steps I took:

* Find comparable sales in your area on eBay (not Craigslist). Print those out and bring them with you. I bring a binder with me.*
* Make an inspection checklist when you view the bike. Mark down everything that doesn't pass, even little things (tears in the seat, old tires, etc.) and point them out to the seller as you find them.
* Be upfront with the seller: tell him you want the bike, but the average used price in your area is X, and you found issue Y that will cost Z dollars to fix, so you're ready to offer X minus Z.

The Cleveland Moto Podcast had a fantastic episode on how to buy a used motorcycle. I wrote down their advice and posted it here. If you like I can PM you the print friendly version I took with me while bike shopping.


Good luck!


* In my binder: comparable sales, my inspection checklist, and blank bills of sale.

Agreed with your approach. Both buying and selling are about doing the homework and knowing the market. A bike that's priced right requires almost no negotiation.
 
What if he brought a binder full of women?

Yep, I would consider a buyer with that list to be a time-waster for sure.

Another way to look at a buyer like that is at least they are serious enough to research the bike and may be realist about price range.

If they tried the nitpick too much you can aleays just say no. Move along.
 
* In my binder: comparable sales, my inspection checklist, and blank bills of sale.

Yeah, no to all of that. I think it's good to have the checklist and know the price you are willing to pay FOR YOURSELF, but don't tell me, the seller, what I should be charging. I know what I have, I came to my price in a fair way. I'll sell my bike for what I want, and if the time comes for you to sell a bike, you do the same yeah? If you don't feel the bike is worth what I'm asking, feel free to make a counter offer, but going too low or nitpicking and pointing out every little thing (that I already know!) is just going to make me want to raise the price on you...not lower it.


+1

You don't think the seller already knows all the issues with their bike? If you are not comfortable with the price then don't waste the sellers time especially showing them ebay listings.

Exactly. :thumbup
 
I think it's reasonable to bring paper and pencil to mark down flaws, but bringing other listings is strange.
 
I think it's reasonable to bring paper and pencil to mark down flaws, but bringing other listings is strange.

yep
if a buyer wants to make a lower offer, i don't care why they're making it just fucking put out a number. don't waste my time attempting to convince me of something, this isn't a criminal proceeding.
 
Been a 24 years career for me. But just counting within the last 5 years, I've sold or directed the sales of approximately 480 used vehicles per year x 5 years = 2400 used vehicles (excluding 7000 new vehicles sold in that 5 years time).

All of my transactions or sales transactions conducted under my supervision have been at our set no-haggle price. People appreciate full disclosure and tranperancy. But mainly, it's because our pricing on our vehicles have come in at the correct market price and even hundreds or thousands below all the other jack-offs' price.

But I do have a softer side too and if I like you or feel it's compelling and beneficial to both our relation for me to knock a buck off; no problem. It's just a piece of metal and rubber. And me having a life long client relationship is more valuable to me.

But don't come in with a pen and pad or laundry list of what's imaginary wrong with my product to degrade the product to lower the price. More often than not, my response would be something like, "well you don't have to buy it if so dislike it so much." The response is usually, "no no I want it". Or if you say my price is too high (which is not since research has been done to see what all the other similar vehicle is being sold for in a radius of "x" miles). I may just politely respond to you, "well if you consider the price to be TOO high, then why did you drive all the way here from San Diego if the price was too high?"

I do know that as a buyer myself, if I like something. I just go and meet the seller (dealer or private) and pay what they are asking. My time is important. And their time is important. If I wasn't happy with what I saw online or heard over the phone, then I wouldn't go to begin with. But if I'm there, I'm buying and I'm paying.

If you like it, buy it.
 
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Been a 24 years career for me. But just counting within the last 5 years, I've sold or directed the sales of approximately 480 used vehicles per year x 5 years = 2400 used vehicles (excluding 7000 new vehicles sold in that 5 years time).

All of my transactions or sales transactions conducted under my supervision have been at our set no-haggle price. People appreciate full disclosure and tranperancy. But mainly, it's because our pricing on our vehicles have come in at the correct market price and even hundreds or thousands below all the other jack-offs' price.

But I do have a softer side too and if I like you or feel it's compelling and beneficial to both our relation for me to knock a buck off; no problem. It's just a piece of metal and rubber. And me having a life long client relationship is more valuable to me.

But don't come in with a pen and pad or laundry list of what's imaginary wrong with my product to degrade the product to lower the price. More often than not, my response would be something like, "well you don't have to buy it if so dislike it so much." The response is usually, "no no I want it". Or if you say my price is too high (which is not since research has been done to see what all the other similar vehicle is being sold for in a radius of "x" miles). I may just politely respond to you, "well if you consider the price to be TOO high, then why did you drive all the way here from San Diego if the price was too high?"

I do know that as a buyer myself, if I like something. I just go and meet the seller (dealer or private) and pay what they are asking. My time is important. And their time is important. If I wasn't happy with what I saw online or heard over the phone, then I wouldn't go to begin with. But if I'm there, I'm buying and I'm paying.

If you like it, buy it.

YEP.
 
Oh and just a point about the thread title. There's no such thing as really negotiating without risking blowing the deal.
 
On the other hand, unless you do something absurd it's unlikely they won't take asking price.

When I bought my WR450 earlier this year, I called him on the night the posting went up and showed up the next morning to look at the bike. It had been sitting for a while and still had obvious fueling issues even after a quick carb clean. He had it posted for $3800, I offered $3400, he countered $3500, I accepted. Had I offered $2000 it may have blown the deal, but as long as you keep your offer reasonable odds are the seller will be reasonable as well.
 
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On the other hand, unless you do something absurd it's unlikely they won't take asking price.

When I bought my WR450 earlier this year, I called him on the night the posting went up and showed up the next morning to look at the bike. It had been sitting for a while and still had obvious fueling issues even after a quick carb clean. He had it posted for $3800, I offered $3400, he countered $3500, I accepted. Had I offered $2000 it may have blown the deal, but as long as you keep your offer reasonable odds are the seller will be reasonable as well.

That's what has pretty much always happened when I've sold bikes. First guy to show up offers a reasonable price and the deal is done.




Also, lolz at the binder. :rofl Go ahead and make a mental checklist, but I have never ever ever had someone bust out and pick the shit apart to that detail. Then again, we are talking mostly four digit run of the mill motorbike sales. Yeah, if I'm trying to sell a '67 Ferrari GTO or some shit, yeah, I better have some documentation and fully expect a thorough examination of the vehicle. $2500 CBR250? Fuck off. :twofinger All you should expect is a title.



Edit... in regards to bills of sale. Fuck off with that shit, too. I'll sign you over the pink slip and that's it. BOS should only be for vehicles where the title is lost or some crap. I'm not signing your shitty hand written scribbled useless BOS.
 
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One thing I've done recently is taken a picture of their DL with the title, and had them do the same as well, in case there are paperwork difficulties. Of course some people may not be willing to do that.
 
Sidenote:

Protip: Fill out the Release of Liability together and make a copy for your records. Doesn't hurt to make a copy/photo of the title, too. Send it in via mail ASAP, but also do it online. I was told by DMV Mothership that RoL forms essentially go directly to the Roundfile. Don't expect the new owner to register it and be prepared to battle the DMV and FTB if the new owners are flaky assholes.
 
Edit... in regards to bills of sale. I'll sign you over the pink slip and that's it. BOS should only be for vehicles where the title is lost or some crap. I'm not signing your shitty hand written scribbled useless BOS.
I always use the official form: http://www.dmv.ca.gov/forms/reg/reg135.pdf

I'll fill it out for you - as buyer or seller - but I want one for any vehicle sale. I've had problems at the DMV in the past without one, and it's a pretty simple way to resolve those issues.

You're being unreasonable. :x
 
I've never been presented with an official one, only hand scribbled BS, which I will not sign. I'd sign an official form if asked.
 
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