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San Francisco and bound for South America

There was no way to cross and a different route would have been 5-6 hours I think so I just stuck it out.
 
Fricking awesome! :applause

Valgar did the fix on the photo deal.. so thanks Dave!!

Great thread.. vote for it.. a tool that is not used enough here on barf and this thread deserves the vote!

:smoking
 
Day 10

Dia: 10
Fecha: Viernes, 6 de Agosto
Today's ride: ~275 miles from Manzanillo to Zihuatanejo, 8 hours
Total distance: 2433 miles

I can't say I got much of a feel for Manzanillo, not visiting the downtown area or the Malecón (there has to be one, I'm sure). The hostel owners were very welcoming and it was a good evening of talking with them and the other guests. I just figure, unless there is a very strong reason to stay, I better keep going. The ton of mosquitos sure didn't help Manzanillo's cause.

The clothes I had washed in Manzanillo had not dried the next morning with the high humidity there. First time that has been an issue on the trip so far.

The riding is definitely getting tougher the further South I go. The route between Manzanillo to Zihuatanejo is pretty straightforward, following Mexico 200 but it's anything but straight. A large portion of the 275 miles stretch (mostly through the state of Michoacán) consists of winding coastal roads with the asphalt spalling in the most inopportune curves. Add a constant drizzle, the occasional lifestock, and it's very slow going.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4869678768/" title="SDC12170 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4100/4869678768_ea40fe36cd.jpg" width="359" height="500" alt="SDC12170" /></a>
There had been ten of them but they had disappeared in the bushes after I stopped.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4869065801/" title="SDC12171 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4120/4869065801_fe5e7dffa8.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12171" /></a>
It's a very lush place.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4869066951/" title="SDC12173 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4100/4869066951_8be5a2e014.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12173" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4869681762/" title="SDC12175 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4121/4869681762_4c624f911d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12175" /></a>

I was pulled over by the police in Tecoman, a good 30 miles out of Manzanillo. I handed them one of my two copies of the international driver licence (my throwaways) but after quickly checking my licence plate, they let me go. Why they bothered pulling me over, I don't know.

Finding Angeles Hostel required me asking for directions again but Zihuatanejo is pretty small so I found it pretty quickly. There is only street parking (and I parked right by the entrance gate) so that is less than ideal but otherwise, it's a nice place.
 
Day 11

Dia: 11
Fecha: Sabado, 7 de Agosto
Today's ride: rest in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zihuatanejo">Zihuatanejo</a> and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ixtapa">Ixtapa</a>
Total Miles: 2433

Unable to find a hotel or hostel for Saturday night in Acapulco that was within my price range, I decided to take a rest day here in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zihuatanejo">Zihuatanejo</a>. Unfortunately, the internet at the hostel is not working (the cable guy was supposed to come by the day before but no dice) so I figured, where might I find an American style cafe with internet so I headed over to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ixtapa">Ixtapa</a>, a resort town planned and built by the government with the specific intent of drawing in US dollars. Asking at the tourist information office, they led me to Kaldhi Cafe which was exactly what I was looking for.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4872454370/" title="SDC12191 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4141/4872454370_6b3305a212.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12191" /></a>
Fans, air conditioning, free wifi, and ice coffee. Just what a weary traveller needs.

Everyone seems to know Zihuatanejo due to the reference made to it in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Shawshank_Redemption">The Shawshank Redemption</a>. I had totally forgotten about it. Alas, so far, I have not seen Andy Dufresne or his boat.

I later met with Lenny. He's a friend of Moe and Dorothy's up in Mazatlan and they put him in touch with me knowing that I would be passing this way. He is biding his time here with his motorcycle and his Jeep as there were some washed out roads in Central America. We met a small corner bar called the Fishing Hole.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4872457834/" title="SDC12193 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4101/4872457834_e810d02382.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12193" /></a>

He showed me around some of the sights later:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4871865165/" title="SDC12209 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4079/4871865165_c2d4ab1b80.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12209" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4872464686/" title="SDC12199 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4098/4872464686_a68709416e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12199" /></a>
Freaky, all these fish sticking to the surface in this little lagoon.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4872466240/" title="SDC12202 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4093/4872466240_16dc72b627.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12202" /></a>
One lizard.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4871863959/" title="SDC12207 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4098/4871863959_233ba02468.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12207" /></a>
This guy is huge!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4872472138/" title="SDC12208 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4119/4872472138_d63c923a9b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12208" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4871862855/" title="SDC12205 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4138/4871862855_1ed90f844b.jpg" width="500" height="373" alt="SDC12205" /></a>
In a while, crocodile...

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4872473448/" title="SDC12210 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4142/4872473448_83f8e22fa2.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12210" /></a>
We had left the bikes at this little bar. The color of that Honda sure gets your attention. Alas, the bike isn't happy with all the topes (speed bumps) here.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4872475576/" title="SDC12213 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4118/4872475576_5958bc0a91.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12213" /></a>
Gorgeous view of the bay of Zihuatanejo.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4871868911/" title="SDC12214 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4119/4871868911_1bbb85aaef.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12214" /></a>
This beach apparently is only reachable by boat.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4871873121/" title="SDC12217 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4101/4871873121_0661f4d7f4.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12217" /></a>
Back in town, the roofs over the sidewalks are being installed right now, giving the center of the town a nice look. Also useful rain as I would see later in the evening.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4872696982/" title="SDC12215 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4097/4872696982_9342c7c0e4.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12215" /></a>
The Flophouse is where all the gringos hang out.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4872479638/" title="SDC12216 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4093/4872479638_6c4d49e118.jpg" width="363" height="500" alt="SDC12216" /></a>
The latin moto means something along the lines of "If you give someone some food, you will get a friend for a lifetime. If you give someone something to drink, you will get a brother." I think...

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4871874879/" title="SDC12219 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4095/4871874879_9172293aca.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12219" /></a>
And some fishermen.


Some random thoughts and observations on the trip so far:

Safety:
It's not been an issue. Riding down Baja probably was the safest option, despite the high cost of the ferry. Baja is pretty much cut off from the rest of Mexico. Americans do not need a temporary import permit for their vehicles anywhere on the peninsula, the place is pretty easily controlled with only one major road for the entire distance from Tijuana to Los Cabos. There were five or six military checkpoints along the way. It's actually difficult for Mexicans to enter Baja. The Mexican government makes sure to protect its tourism industry.

Would I have run into any problems had I gone the Nogales route? I doubt it. I'm obviously not part of the drug business, I'm not riding an expensive vehicle so the only danger consists of being in the wrong place at the wrong time which can happen anywhere. Staying away from the border zone, as in making tracks south asap, is probably still advisable.

When I passed through the state of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Michoacan">Michoacán</a> yesterday, I was in the home turf of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Familia_Michoacana">La Familia Michoacana</a>. I'm glad I'm in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guerrero">Guerrero</a> now ;)

Military checkpoints and police:
I have passed a total of 10 or so military checkpoints. They are manned by 18 year old recruits that mostly just look bored. They have sandbagged huts and are armed with assault rifles. Only once was I stopped by a curious kid and asked some questions, where am I from, where am I going but that was it. All other times, I was waved through. In short, these aren't a problem, as least not for foreigners.

It's hard to keep track of all the the different police but in general, it's the Federales and the municipales, the Mexican government police and the local police. I see them in every town and they too are usually armed with assault rifles. They don't seem to care for about some lone rider so yesterday's stop was a first for me. This may change in the future but so far, it's been pretty uneventful on that end.

Hotels and hostels:
Hotels are still pretty expensive, usually $40 or more so I am trying to stay at hostels and have found pretty good ones so far. <a href="http://hostels.com/">Hostels.com</a> and <a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com/">tripadvisor</a> are my best resources and I usually cross-reference any hostel I find at hostels.com to the reviews on tripadvisor. It's worked pretty well so far.

Smoking:
This is hard to get used to as a Californian but everyone down here smokes, especially at the hostels. Cigarettes are cheap so why not, I guess.

Money laundering:
So one "neat" story I heard was this: If you have built a 800-room hotel on the beach somewhere, in the off-season, it'll likely be pretty darn empty. That shouldn't prevent you from "filling" the place with lots of imaginary guests paying with perfectly good US dollars. Voila, clean money!

Hollister, CA shirts:
Okay, someone explain to me why shirts saying Hollister are in fashion here. I guess if you haven't been to Hollister, you don't know any better?

Next day, off to Acapulco.
 
Day 12

Dia: 12
Fecha: Domingo, 8 de Agosto
Today's ride: from <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zihuatanejo">Zihuatanejo</a> to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acapulco">Acapulco</a>, ~148 miles
Total Miles: 2571

I left Zihua at 7:50am. It's still not fully light yet at the time but the temperatures are nice. It didn't take too long to reach Acapulco 150 miles away but the topes are a giant pain. Some of the coastal stretches were absolutely gorgeous.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4874414746/" title="SDC12224 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4079/4874414746_24fa62c2a7.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12224" /></a>
To the back.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4873805693/" title="SDC12225 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4122/4873805693_1efa4bb105.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12225" /></a>
To the front.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4874414056/" title="SDC12223 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4137/4874414056_805db7dcd2.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12223" /></a>
And downhill.

I started to notice a lot of VW busses on the streets. I had started to wonder where all those VW bugs were that had been built in Mexico until 2002. So far on the trip, I would see a couple each day but getting closer to Acapulco, suddenly every other car became a bug. I guess I found the motherload.

Hotel Oviedo is located right by the beach and next to El Zocalo, the central square. That doesn't mean it's easy to find or get to with the one way streets. I finally found it and made a right turn on a red after stopping right by the hotel. Alas, a cop saw me and it was payday. He went through the obligatory explanation that I would have to head to the office the next morning at 9am to pay the fine and even showed me the rule book, $809/US$64. He graciously offered that he could take care of it today for half the price. I offered $200 instead and we settled on $300/US$24. How did I do considering I did make a mistake? Did I overpay? Anyhow, I handed him the international driver licence I got at AAA for $15 but I figured since this was genuine, I would just pay.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4874417234/" title="SDC12230 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4120/4874417234_2a3255b78d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12230" /></a>
Entrance to Hotel Oviedo.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4874416148/" title="SDC12226 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4134/4874416148_23d984f7ac.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12226" /></a>
My room was on the 7th floor.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4874416720/" title="SDC12229 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4097/4874416720_7ec7082ee4.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12229" /></a>
My room has a view of the bay?!? It's tiny but for $275/US$22 with A/C and wifi, absolutely no complaints.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4874417760/" title="SDC12231 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4122/4874417760_70d59c9b01.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12231" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4874418498/" title="SDC12232 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4097/4874418498_6398ccc5e2.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12232" /></a>
El Zocalo, the town square.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4873809585/" title="SDC12233 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4100/4873809585_cf35e95b67.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12233" /></a>
Built for a movie set, it was later turned into a church.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4874420172/" title="SDC12235 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4102/4874420172_8081d5c2d9.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12235" /></a>
It was even busier at night.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4874422450/" title="SDC12237 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4077/4874422450_bcb86acc54.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12237" /></a>
VW Bug and a van!

The one thing I remembered about Acapulco were the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Quebrada_Cliff_Divers">cliff divers</a> so I had to go see them. Just a few blocks from my hotel, I headed over. The area is called La Quebrada, or the Gulch.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4874423650/" title="SDC12239 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4082/4874423650_ca58dbae7a.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12239" /></a>
The hotel overlooking the cliff and the memorial.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4874424470/" title="SDC12240 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4082/4874424470_039a0bcaf7.jpg" width="413" height="500" alt="SDC12240" /></a>
Steps down to the viewing area. The tickets were $35/$3 for the 7:30pm show. Alas, I got there an hour early.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4873815515/" title="SDC12241 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4122/4873815515_e019063ba2.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12241" /></a>
Other hillside.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4874426554/" title="SDC12244 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4093/4874426554_33d6736c03.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12244" /></a>
The divers give a quick prayer at the shrine before each dive.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4873817385/" title="SDC12246 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4097/4873817385_e2191f46f3.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12246" /></a>
Nice digs.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4873819509/" title="SDC12249 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4120/4873819509_bd9b15f27e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12249" /></a>
There is quite a surge each time the waves come in.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4874429914/" title="SDC12253 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4116/4874429914_7b3a87c92c.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12253" /></a>

Warning! Men in Speedos!
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4873820831/" title="SDC12254 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4073/4873820831_99898832aa.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12254" /></a>
Here they come.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4874433106/" title="SDC12257 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4139/4874433106_f790220be7.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12257" /></a>
First they climb the cliff.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4874435124/" title="SDC12261 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4122/4874435124_09acde4780.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12261" /></a>
And wave to the crowd.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4873826893/" title="SDC12264 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4118/4873826893_62c6a01d9f.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12264" /></a>
And then they jump!

A couple videos:
<object style="background-image:url(http://i1.ytimg.com/vi/D9aJHvORqIg/hqdefault.jpg)" width="480" height="295"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/D9aJHvORqIg&hl=en_US&fs=1"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/D9aJHvORqIg&hl=en_US&fs=1" width="480" height="295" allowscriptaccess="never" allowfullscreen="true" wmode="transparent" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"></embed></object>
Backflip.

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/vifkYz926gw&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/vifkYz926gw&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>
Full jump.. alas, I manage to get someone's head in the way and of course I cant change the orientation of the videos. My directoral career will be rather short.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4874438924/" title="SDC12270 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4135/4874438924_240c3930f1.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12270" /></a>
The ubiquitous VW Bug taxis in Acapulco.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4873829593/" title="SDC12271 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4100/4873829593_b8d73dae5e.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12271" /></a>
Stunters right outside. He wasn't bad.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4873830489/" title="SDC12274 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4119/4873830489_126c1521af.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12274" /></a>
By the bay.

Tomorrow, off to Puerto Escondido, 250 miles. It'll be a long day.
 
Last edited:
evermore said:
He went through the obligatory explanation that I would have to head to the office the next morning at 9am to pay the fine and even showed me the rule book, $809/US$64. He graciously offered that he could take care of it today for half the price. I offered $200 instead and we settled on $300/US$24. How did I do considering I did make a mistake? Did I overpay? Anyhow, I handed him the international driver licence I got at AAA for $15 but I figured since this was genuine, I would just pay.
Click to expand...

Ive always just paid considering they could take your bike and everything else if they wanted and not much you could do.

But a few things i do to get away with as little as possible

1. Take the key out of the bike before they can grab it, Theyll hold for ransom

2. Dont give real license or passport, those international ones are good throw aways, or get some good photo copies of it

3. Act stupid. If their speaking spanish, act like you dont understand, If their speaking english, act like you dont understand their bad english.

4. Only carry a few dollars in your wallet 1$-3$ or whatever your willing to part with, show the empty wallet as your negotiation, "look its all i have" they wont follow you to the ATM.

The point is to make it as difficult as possible, maybe they'll let you go. Or take very little money cause its too much of a hassle.
 
DanTheMan07 said:
Ive always just paid considering they could take your bike and everything else if they wanted and not much you could do.

But a few things i do to get away with as little as possible

1. Take the key out of the bike before they can grab it, Theyll hold for ransom

2. Dont give real license or passport, those international ones are good throw aways, or get some good photo copies of it
they can and do recognize false ones sometimes, ask me how I know, so be ready to do it legit. the good thing, is they want the money more so, than getting you to pay into the "collective"

3. Act stupid. If their speaking spanish, act like you dont understand, If their speaking english, act like you dont understand their bad english.

4. Only carry a few dollars in your wallet 1$-3$ or whatever your willing to part with, show the empty wallet as your negotiation, "look its all i have" they wont follow you to the ATM.
This is really good advice. Basically you will be haggling for whatever you have. never show a stack of bills, just say, all I got is 50 pesos, or something "cash" on hand. say you get cash at the hotels at night, when you arrive.
The point is to make it as difficult as possible, maybe they'll let you go. Or take very little money cause its too much of a hassle.
Click to expand...

great advice.

you did really well, and of course, you paid a lot more than you could have, but not as much as they think you should have, and at the same time, you get to go on your way. try that here. :laughing

great story and great photos. Do you think you will go through Salina Cruz?
 
machete said:
great advice.

you did really well, and of course, you paid a lot more than you could have, but not as much as they think you should have, and at the same time, you get to go on your way. try that here. :laughing

great story and great photos. Do you think you will go through Salina Cruz?
Click to expand...

Oh well, $24 spent on education I guess. I am heading to Oaxaca tomorrow and will be staying a day there. After that, the next goal is Palenque but I'm not sure what a good path to get there is yet. Maybe Salina Cruz?
 
evermore said:
Oh well, $24 spent on education I guess. I am heading to Oaxaca tomorrow and will be staying a day there. After that, the next goal is Palenque but I'm not sure what a good path to get there is yet. Maybe Salina Cruz?
Click to expand...

don't worry about it man. I learned the same way at 15. :teeth driving my grandfathers truck and got fleeced by the traffic cop. when I told my grandfather how much I gave the cop for a bribe, he was like "what?!?!" HAHAHA, never again. it only takes one time, so don't sweat it. just stay at a cheap notel motel and it will make up for it.

if you go to salina cruz...it would be cool if you found the guys that ride over there. that took care of us. unfortunately, the last info I have on them, is long since lost. but will try and send you something.
 
Day 13

Dia: 13
Fecha: Lunes, 9 de Agosto
Today's ride: from <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acapulco">Acapulco</a> to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puerto_Escondido,_Oaxaca">Puerto Escondido</a>, ~256 miles
Total Miles: 2827

Leaving Acapulco was an ordeal. I left the hotel at 8am and the bike started and idled just fine. I had to ride on the elevated sidewalk halfway around the building as the steps were too steep in front to ride down. Just as I got off in the flat section, the engine dies. After 20 minutes or trying to start and waiting, I gave up, moved the bike back inside the building and proceeded to take the bike apart. I figured I may have flooded the airbox even though I was pretty sure that I'd been on top of closing the petcock the last few days. The airbox was completely dry though so before removing the tank and checking out the spark plugs, I tried starting the bike and it came to life without a problem. Counting my lucky stars, I reassembled the bike and was on the road 20 minutes later, having let it idle for a good 5 minutes without problem. I am still not sure what happened since I didn't actually fix anything. I don't like problems that fix themselves as they have this nasty habit of unfixing themselves too.

Acapulco traffic is atrocious. The worst? The bus drivers. On two occasions, I saw them go through red lights. The rest of the drivers are no better. With the sheer volume, narrow roads, and poor road conditions in the periphery of the town, I was extremely glad to get out of there.

I stopped to get something to drink 3-4 hours later but apparently did not pay well enough attention to the stability of my bike as it fell over while I was taking my helmet off.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4877729722/" title="SDC12287 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4117/4877729722_0080f072f2.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12287" /></a>
Right after the mishap. Only damage is a small hole burnt into saddle bag from exhaust and bruised ego.

One thing you can't help but notice is that there is a lot of roadkill. Alas, 90% seem to be dogs. It's very sad. It killed me to see this puppy just lying down on the street knowing he might be toast in a few hours. People have a very different relationship to dogs here.

<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puerto_Escondido,_Oaxaca">Puerto Escondido</a> is a gorgeous tiny little beach and surf town.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4877735018/" title="SDC12291 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4114/4877735018_113f6763d5.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12291" /></a>
Beach view from the Mayflower hostel.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4877733442/" title="SDC12290 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4138/4877733442_ddc1afefeb.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12290" /></a>
And what a beach it is!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4877126861/" title="SDC12292 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4075/4877126861_087481b805.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12292" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4877129799/" title="SDC12294 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4082/4877129799_f28eca270d.jpg" width="500" height="376" alt="SDC12294" /></a>
At the other end of this little bay, where all the surfers were, are also these rocks.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4877131229/" title="SDC12296 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4097/4877131229_bbe900a621.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12296" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4877132711/" title="SDC12297 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4137/4877132711_f05ea4a4b6.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12297" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4877743918/" title="SDC12298 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4143/4877743918_6bdcb52c7b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12298" /></a>
That's quite a wave!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4877745296/" title="SDC12299 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4095/4877745296_cf9130a357.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12299" /></a>
View to the other end of this bay within a bay.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4877748770/" title="SDC12301 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4076/4877748770_62b97bda24.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12301" /></a>
Lots of real estate available...

Puerto Escondido was nice and I was debating staying for a day but was really looking forward to Oaxaca so decided to ride there instead.
 
evermore said:
Acapulco traffic is atrocious. The worst? The bus drivers. On two occasions, I saw them go through red lights. The rest of the drivers are no better. With the sheer volume, narrow roads, and poor road conditions in the periphery of the town, I was extremely glad to get out of there..
Click to expand...

:laughing welcome to almost any major city, big city of Mexico. ;) just keep your wits about you, and be aware of everything. and don't be shy, and be one step ahead, is about the best I can give you. Last time I was down there with some American friends, they freaked out big time, and they would fall back instantly due to all the "almosts" that they encountered with buses, cars, taxis and suicide pizza delivery guys on scooters (these are the best, and if you get to see one in their pure glory it is truly a sight to see. :laughing)

great pictures. Puerto Escondido is nice.

any ideas on what the issue with the bike was?
 
Day 14

Dia: 14
Fecha: Martes, 10 de Agosto
Today's ride: from <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puerto_Escondido,_Oaxaca">Puerto Escondido</a> to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oaxaca">Oaxaca</a>, ~155 miles, 7 hours
Total Miles: 3035

I took the most direct route to Oaxaca and figured I would get there about noon or 1pm. The roads started deteriorating right away though to the point where entire sections of the road were destroyed or there were more potholes than actual pavement. I think I averaged 25mph the entire way.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4881372984/" title="SDC12303 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4080/4881372984_e170468a63.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12303" /></a>
Lush hills.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4881373522/" title="SDC12304 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4096/4881373522_a6b1df69e0.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12304" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4880765599/" title="SDC12305 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4134/4880765599_85624fc69b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12305" /></a>
That is a village on that hillside.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4881374294/" title="SDC12306 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4142/4881374294_1f84c129ec.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12306" /></a>
A hilltop village.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4881374704/" title="SDC12307 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4099/4881374704_d704116bbf.jpg" width="500" height="353" alt="SDC12307" /></a>
With its own military checkpoint!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4880766733/" title="SDC12308 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4096/4880766733_09e620bc73.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12308" /></a>
Alas, the second time in two days my bike was on its side. I hit the edge of that pothole which threw off my line. I braked to a stop but at the very end, I slid into the ditch. Beyond the scratches on my windshield, no damage, not even the mounts were bent or anything.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4881375930/" title="SDC12310 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4141/4881375930_e02096d64e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12310" /></a>
One of the many valleys on my way.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4880770285/" title="SDC12313 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4115/4880770285_30b116140b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12313" /></a>
Finally in Oaxaca!!!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4880771311/" title="SDC12316 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4101/4880771311_77cc698ea2.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12316" /></a>
The Cathedral on the Zocalo hidden by the giant Mexican flag.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4881381226/" title="SDC12319 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4073/4881381226_4a614df416.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12319" /></a>
Unobstructed view of the Cathedral.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4880773595/" title="SDC12321 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/4880773595_0e037a4013.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12321" /></a>
What you notice in Mexico is the sheer number of people everywhere.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4881383306/" title="SDC12324 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4093/4881383306_a287443778.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12324" /></a>
The Zocalo is also a center for political expression. Oaxaca had an uprising in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2006_Oaxaca_protests">2006</a> during which 17 people were killed. The police apparently opened fire on striking teachers and things escalated from there.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4880776743/" title="SDC12329 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4078/4880776743_4368e95b2c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12329" /></a>
Calle Mina is just 3 blocks south from the Zocalo and has several chocolatiers. This one is Majordomo. They all serve Mexican hot chocolate with a bread to dunk into it. Yum!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4881387402/" title="SDC12335 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4123/4881387402_0518584dd6.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12335" /></a>
Highly recommended!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4880780011/" title="SDC12337 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4143/4880780011_0bdb6c48de.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12337" /></a>
Men at work making the good stuff.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4881386032/" title="SDC12331 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4102/4881386032_17b4741779.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12331" /></a>
La Soledad, one of the competitors on the same street.

There are two markets covering a block each south of the Zocalo, Juarez and 20 de Noviembre markets.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4880777213/" title="SDC12330 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4116/4880777213_dafef44a46.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12330" /></a>
I don't know which was which.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4880781855/" title="SDC12341 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4095/4880781855_d1f60ca927.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12341" /></a>
Meat.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4880785271/" title="SDC12347 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4118/4880785271_11658dd728.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12347" /></a>
And more meat.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4881390818/" title="SDC12342 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4082/4881390818_e785a9d733.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12342" /></a>
Peppers!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4881391292/" title="SDC12343 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4134/4881391292_f6c7df533f.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12343" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4881389108/" title="SDC12339 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4102/4881389108_028a2e05a9.jpg" width="500" height="427" alt="SDC12339" /></a>
A lot of the shops are outside too.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4880784109/" title="SDC12345 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4140/4880784109_c76f4ba056.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12345" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4881392696/" title="SDC12346 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4135/4881392696_54bbf8f555.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12346" /></a>
Buzz Lightyear!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4881393764/" title="SDC12348 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4077/4881393764_7fc20ec280.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12348" /></a>
Hmm, lots of locals lining up so I figured it must be good. Carnitas tacos, and they were delicious!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4880786167/" title="SDC12349 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4101/4880786167_9b8b6dbe89.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12349" /></a>
Two please!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4881391742/" title="SDC12344 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4102/4881391742_c615721593.jpg" width="500" height="386" alt="SDC12344" /></a>
And dessert.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4881394572/" title="SDC12351 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4142/4881394572_9b81d05b60.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12351" /></a>
Zocalo at night.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4881394948/" title="SDC12352 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4080/4881394948_74da9516d7.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12352" /></a>
The Cathedral beautifully lit.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4880788289/" title="SDC12356 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4119/4880788289_1bff91def5.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12356" /></a>
Street performer reenacting "Titanic" with a reluctant audience participant. This type of entertainment seems to appear in any Zocalo or Malecon.

Tomorrow, I shall explore Oaxaca more and especially the Zapotepec ruin of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Alban">Monte Albán</a>.
 
Day 15

Dia: 15
Fecha: Miércoles, 10 de Agosto
Today's ride: Rest in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oaxaca">Oaxaca</a>
Total Miles: 3035

<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Alban">Monte Albán</a> is very close to Oaxaca, less than ten minute ride from the old town. It is built on a hilltop in this wide valley just west of today's Oaxaca. Monte Albán overlooks this area in which three large valleys actually meet.
<iframe width="425" height="350" frameborder="0" scrolling="no" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" src="http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Monte+Alban,+Oaxaca,+Mexico&sll=17.048497,-96.765862&sspn=0.046281,0.072355&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Monte+Alb%C3%A1n,+Oaxaca,+Mexico&t=h&z=14&ll=17.037953,-96.764205&output=embed"></iframe><br /><small><a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=embed&hl=en&geocode=&q=Monte+Alban,+Oaxaca,+Mexico&sll=17.048497,-96.765862&sspn=0.046281,0.072355&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Monte+Alb%C3%A1n,+Oaxaca,+Mexico&t=h&z=14&ll=17.037953,-96.764205" style="color:#0000FF;text-align:left">View Larger Map</a></small>

Notice that even today, you can see how the entire hill is terraced surrounding the central complex. The city looms about 1300ft above the valley floor. The original hill was likely 1600ft so the builders sure did a lot of work levelling this thing.

The <a href="http://www.advantagemexico.com/oaxaca/monte_alban.html">city</a> was built about 2500 years ago and occupied for 1300 years, then abandoned. The builders may have been the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olmecs">Olmecs</a> but the occupiers for most of its history were the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zapotec_civilization">Zapotecs</a>. Ok, enough history, more pictures.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4883804248/" title="SDC12367 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4102/4883804248_7804893c46.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12367" /></a>
My first view of the size of this city.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4883803910/" title="SDC12366 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4077/4883803910_e177dc3c88.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12366" /></a>
Let's play ball!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4883202183/" title="SDC12370 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4082/4883202183_a71abbed27.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12370" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4883203703/" title="SDC12374 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4142/4883203703_818b7baf8f.jpg" width="500" height="362" alt="SDC12374" /></a>
This is just the base, there are two temples on top.

The next three pictures are a scan of the view back.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4883808462/" title="SDC12377 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4140/4883808462_4c5b1791e4.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12377" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4883204477/" title="SDC12376 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4093/4883204477_0953d6850f.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12376" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4883808774/" title="SDC12378 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4137/4883808774_fd68bf3b44.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12378" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4883206359/" title="SDC12380 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4139/4883206359_52c978eaf1.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12380" /></a>
No wonder they built here. You can see for miles.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4883812072/" title="SDC12386 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4137/4883812072_29240fc9a7.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12386" /></a>
A couple cornerstones left in place.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4883813788/" title="SDC12391 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4095/4883813788_f514388433.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12391" /></a>
A Stela.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4883814834/" title="SDC12394 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4137/4883814834_557622748b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12394" /></a>
An unrestored section. In pretty good shape considering.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4883815510/" title="SDC12396 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4079/4883815510_8e2bba2bf5.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12396" /></a>
I am now at the other end of the huge central square, on top of another base. As you can see, there is a large sunk courtyard here.

The next four pictures are a scan from this base.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4883212281/" title="SDC12397 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4123/4883212281_3e5c3eef69.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12397" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4883816380/" title="SDC12398 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4100/4883816380_0bb52386d0.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12398" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4883816828/" title="SDC12399 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4077/4883816828_36632b042e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12399" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4883213689/" title="SDC12400 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4081/4883213689_b0f73a0117.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12400" /></a>
It's hard to properly convey the scale of this.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4883216449/" title="SDC12407 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4137/4883216449_5c15d1d0cb.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12407" /></a>
Yes, I am actually here.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4883216859/" title="SDC12415 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4116/4883216859_770724597e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12415" /></a>
Note the valleyfloor in the distance. What a magnificient spot.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4883801388/" title="SDC12360 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4122/4883801388_6eb78357a4.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12360" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4883197865/" title="SDC12361 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4123/4883197865_f375be16fe.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12361" /></a>
From inside the museum.

Ok, done with Monte Albán.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4883822034/" title="SDC12419 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4078/4883822034_4036fdc4ef.jpg" width="500" height="305" alt="SDC12419" /></a>
Descending back to Oaxaca.

I next decided to visit <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arbol_del_Tule">El Árbol del Tule</a>, touted here as the world's biggest tree. Apparently when it comes to the trunk, that is true. It's friggin' huge!
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4883823386/" title="SDC12422 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4100/4883823386_0837870187.jpg" width="474" height="500" alt="SDC12422" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4883825140/" title="SDC12426 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4102/4883825140_85024575fa.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12426" /></a>

I went to a restaurant near the Santo Domingo Church and they had a whole bunch of masks on the wall.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4883222157/" title="SDC12429 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/4883222157_7757e19ec7.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12429" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4883224089/" title="SDC12432 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4100/4883224089_6638fd8e22.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12432" /></a>
Santo Domingo Church.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4883223449/" title="SDC12431 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4137/4883223449_521e008f43.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12431" /></a>
Bad weather looming. It later poured for a good two hours.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4883226283/" title="SDC12436 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4077/4883226283_e2afc5e88a.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12436" /></a>
Street view.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4883830526/" title="SDC12437 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4123/4883830526_112471aec3.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12437" /></a>
I finished my tour just in time to catch the Mexico - Spain game at a local bar. The drink was Mezcal with orange juice and grenadine, $50/US$4. Not bad for 1liter/1qt.

Tomorrow, I'll try to make it to the capital of the state of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tabasco_state">Tabasco</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Villahermosa">Villahermosa</a> so I can reach <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palenque">Palenque</a> easily the following day.
 
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brother, I can officially say, I am extremely jealous and wish I was on this ride with you.
amazing photos, and you'll have to let me know the specs on where those temples/cities are above. simply amazing.

also, yes, be careful of any political protests, or union/labor, etc...protests. Try and stay away from them, and I usually keep my thoughts neutral on the subject if the locals ask you. it's just better that way.

also, little known fact, it is illegal for a foreigner in Mexico to take part in ANY government protests...with the penalty being expulsion from the country.

Oaxaca is amazing, and also one of the central locations of Mexican history, revolution and development. try the Tequila too. :teeth

If you go to Tabasco (or is it Taxco?), which is the silver mining capital of Mexico, be sure and get some silver trinkets. last time I was there, was back in '84.

The market photos made me drool. especially the taco stand. dude, those are the best freaking tacos EVAR!!!! :laughing especially when you are drunk.

and finally you take a photo with you in it. :applause

cheers man, and safe riding.

bike down: 2 (just keeping score :teeth)
 
Holy cow, great ride report! I have to say I was in Oaxaca in '06 right at the middle/end of all that uprising. It was kinda crazy. I only stayed for about a week and then took off to Puerto Angel/ Zipolite/ Mazunte/ Puerto Escondido...my gf at the time had to pull me off those beaches! Amazing!
 
Day 16

Dia: 16
Fecha: Jueves, 12 de Agosto
Today's ride: Ride from <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oaxaca">Oaxaca</a> to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palenque">Palenque</a>, 470 miles, 10 hours
Total Miles: 3505

Not much to report today as I was busy riding, matching my second longest stint on this trip at 470 miles. Leaving Oaxaca, the road climbed up the mountains and into the fog pretty quickly. The road conditions were far better than south of Oaxaca. Still, it took me 3 hours to cover the first 100 miles. I still managed to reach Villahermosa by 3pm but I decided to press on and get to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palenque">Palenque</a> 90 miles away. This way, I will be able to visit the ruins as soon as they open tomorrow morning, then head on to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Cristobal_de_las_Casas">San Cristóbal de las Casas</a>.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4886531427/" title="SDC12438 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4114/4886531427_072ea576cd.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12438" /></a>
Just a road in Palenque. The town is only of interest as a support for the archeological site.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4886535971/" title="SDC12440 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4140/4886535971_b255fc8e5e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12440" /></a>
The central plaza of Palenque.
 
Hey Mike! This is like the best ride report/blog EVER! Writing great, photos fabulous. You are rockin. dude! And the bike seems to be hanging in so far. Go Mike! Go DR!
 
I may be on the sidelines just watching,,, but it sure is fun...!

Great pics and info :thumbup

Keep em coming Mike!

:smoking
 
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