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San Francisco and bound for South America

machete said:
brother, I can officially say, I am extremely jealous and wish I was on this ride with you.
amazing photos, and you'll have to let me know the specs on where those temples/cities are above. simply amazing.

also, yes, be careful of any political protests, or union/labor, etc...protests. Try and stay away from them, and I usually keep my thoughts neutral on the subject if the locals ask you. it's just better that way.

also, little known fact, it is illegal for a foreigner in Mexico to take part in ANY government protests...with the penalty being expulsion from the country.

Oaxaca is amazing, and also one of the central locations of Mexican history, revolution and development. try the Tequila too. :teeth

If you go to Tabasco (or is it Taxco?), which is the silver mining capital of Mexico, be sure and get some silver trinkets. last time I was there, was back in '84.

The market photos made me drool. especially the taco stand. dude, those are the best freaking tacos EVAR!!!! :laughing especially when you are drunk.

and finally you take a photo with you in it. :applause

cheers man, and safe riding.

bike down: 2 (just keeping score :teeth)
Click to expand...


Monte Alban is 10 minutes outside of Oaxaca. Considering how interesting Oaxaca itself is, this is a must see destination. As for other ruins, I've now seen Palenque (worth it) and will be seeing Copan in Honduras. I am skipping Tikal which everyone seems to agree is the grand daddy of them all but I figure it'll give me a reason to come back someday (and it's easy to reach from Belize).

I definitely kept my mouth shut in San Cristobal de las Casas. I remember hearing about the EZLN 12-13 years ago in my Peace and Conflict Studies course at Cal. Interesting to see the place in person. I never thought that would happen.

Alas, I actually skipped Villahermosa and made straight for Palenque. Good call in regard to being able to get to the ruins at 8am. Two hours later, I was absolutely soaked in sweat but was able to go back to my hotel and take a shower before heading to San Cristobal.

Oh yeah.. thanks for keeping score, what would I do without you :p
 
Day 17

Dia: 17
Fecha: Viernes, 13 de Agosto
Today's ride: Ride from <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palenque">Palenque</a> to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Cristobal_de_las_Casas">San Cristóbal de las Casas</a>, 144 miles, 4 hours
Total Miles: 3649

My plan was to be at the ruins when they opened at 8am, explore for a couple hours, head back to the hotel, shower, and beat the 11am checkout time before riding to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Cristobal_de_las_Casas">San Cristóbal de las Casas</a>. This I managed to do.

<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palenque">Palenque</a> is a large Mayan ruin, contemporary to what I saw at <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Alban">Monte Albán</a> which was built by the Zapotecs. I did not see any mention on whether there was any contact between these cities or civilizations or why both cities declined at about the same time.

The ruins opened at 8am and I arrived a good 15 minutes early. The vendors of course were there a lot earlier.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889766728/" title="SDC12441 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4140/4889766728_0cc7612439.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12441" /></a>
Just a ton of people trying to make a living. I really don't see how all or any of them make any money this way as they seem to outnumber the tourists.

$51/US$4 later, I'm inside and after a short walk, I'm greeted by this:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889767336/" title="SDC12442 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4142/4889767336_c04585447c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12442" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889172213/" title="SDC12443 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4123/4889172213_c0a5faa043.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12443" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889768430/" title="SDC12445 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4137/4889768430_df0a2a836e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12445" /></a>
Now that's what I call a Mayan temple!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889769114/" title="SDC12446 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4095/4889769114_8bc4b13601.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12446" /></a>
The palace.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889770964/" title="SDC12451 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4117/4889770964_a8edd56d38.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12451" /></a>
Another temple.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889178025/" title="SDC12459 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4116/4889178025_67836260bc.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12459" /></a>
And the view from that temple.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889772828/" title="SDC12456 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4116/4889772828_5501c09e71.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12456" /></a>
It's amazing to think that those top structures survived all this time.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889178707/" title="SDC12462 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4077/4889178707_963d5a4601.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12462" /></a>
Inside the temple.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889182211/" title="SDC12469 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4100/4889182211_19718fdd87.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12469" /></a>
The palace again.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889182691/" title="SDC12470 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4121/4889182691_47c15daaef.jpg" width="346" height="500" alt="SDC12470" /></a>
Now a playground for children.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889779196/" title="SDC12472 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4123/4889779196_b5740a2d5b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12472" /></a>
Amazing work.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889780600/" title="SDC12474 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4139/4889780600_df55bee429.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12474" /></a>
The palace is huge!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889186203/" title="SDC12476 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4102/4889186203_ed0ebc1e63.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12476" /></a>
Main Courtyard inside the palace.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889786844/" title="SDC12479 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4138/4889786844_44c7bee721.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12479" /></a>
The palace even has a tower.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889192203/" title="SDC12481 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4137/4889192203_8756cc77a0.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12481" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889192563/" title="SDC12482 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4082/4889192563_6cf090216e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12482" /></a>
Inside the courtyard.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889194047/" title="SDC12486 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4096/4889194047_c618cf9949.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12486" /></a>
Locals setting up their wares. Underemployment is definitely a huge issue here, as elsewhere.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889789858/" title="SDC12487 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4117/4889789858_1153aec119.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12487" /></a>
Too...
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889790238/" title="SDC12488 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4093/4889790238_fe68c3e31f.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12488" /></a>
...many...
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889196149/" title="SDC12491 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4138/4889196149_eff2413fea.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12491" /></a>
...temples!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889794354/" title="SDC12497 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4139/4889794354_6099f43a5c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12497" /></a>
A waterfall!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889199911/" title="SDC12498 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4100/4889199911_2920d6e8b8.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12498" /></a>
Playing with the shutter..

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889795236/" title="SDC12499 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4138/4889795236_053d19ee47.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12499" /></a>
Another ruin.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889798680/" title="SDC12504 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4140/4889798680_09469576b9.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12504" /></a>
Another angle on the waterfall.

By this point, it's not even 10am but I'm completely drenched as it's so humid and the waterfall and those additional ruins lie a good 200ft lower than the main site. So glad I can head back to the hotel and take a shower, all before the 11am check out time!

As I mentioned before, there are a ton more pictures that didn't make it onto the blog, just go to my <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/sets/72157624719779512/">flickr set</a> to see the rest.

Mexico down here is extremely lush.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889206411/" title="SDC12511 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4077/4889206411_40e5cf7f7d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12511" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889802626/" title="SDC12514 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4075/4889802626_100c64f45e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12514" /></a>
At this point, I am above 7000ft.

I reach my hostel no problem. For $200/US$17 a night, <a href="http://www.hostelmiramar.com/">Hostel Miramar</a> is a great deal and the host was very nice. He had a tiny little motorcycle to ride around town. The driveway was actually blocked by an old land rover that was fully packed. As it turns out, three biologists from Berkeley were riding around in it, hitting up all the natural preserves they could find. They were helpful with local knowledge as it comes to Central America and Colombia.

Now, time to check out the town:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889207795/" title="SDC12515 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4120/4889207795_e8a947114d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12515" /></a>
Colorful as always down here.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889803256/" title="SDC12516 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4077/4889803256_d77841a00d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12516" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889208459/" title="SDC12517 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4101/4889208459_f6d214f539.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12517" /></a>
The obligatory church located on the Zocalo.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889805120/" title="SDC12521 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4120/4889805120_4c9975094f.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12521" /></a>
The local firefighters entertaining the kids.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889210293/" title="SDC12522 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4140/4889210293_b4244a1f51.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12522" /></a>
Another random but busy street.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4889211769/" title="SDC12527 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4097/4889211769_0eabbe88a7.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12527" /></a>
Looks like a shrine on top of that hill.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4892342672/" title="SDC12530 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4122/4892342672_9f42ecf8c1.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12530" /></a>
Night time.

<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Cristobal_de_las_Casas">San Cristóbal de las Casas</a> of course has some interesting recent history as it was one of the towns taken over by the Zapatistas in 1994. Check out the link on the town, interesting stuff. I wonder how much, if anything, has changed since then. One very obvious thing was the huge military base right outside of San Cristóbal de las Casas. The entire section of the road belonging to the military (a few miles worth), was newly paved and about wide enough to drive a 747 along. Not a very subtle display of power. More amusingly, the entrance to the garrison itself had a wall with medieval style turrets built along it. It looked like a medieval castle!

Tomorrow, I head to Guatemala.

Just some fiscal stuff to follow so ignore this if you're not interested.

I have been in Mexico for 16 days. In total, I spent the following in Mexico:
$120 for insurance for Mexico
$318 at ATM at border
$36 to import vehicle
$277 for La Paz - Mazatlan ferry.
$320 at ATM in Puerto Vallarta
$160 at ATM in Oaxaca.
$125 in cash.

Which comes to $1356 or $85 a day. Take out the insurance and ferry and we're close to $60 a day, above the $52 a day budget for food, lodging, and gas I was thinking off but not too bad. I've noticed that it's gotten a lot cheaper the further south I go as well so I'm not too worried about my budget.
 
Day 18

Dia: 18
Fecha: Sábado, 14 de Agosto
Today's ride: Ride from <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Cristobal_de_las_Casas">San Cristóbal de las Casas</a> to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panajachel">Panajachel</a>, 246 miles, 7 hours
Total Miles: 3895

Today would feature my first border crossing since entering Mexico. Border crossings in Central and South America are the stuff of legend, stories of being mobbed by fixers, being led around in circles by unhelpful bureaucrats abound so I faced this one with some trepidation.

First, it took about two hours to reach the border at Cuauhtemoc.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4891913721/" title="SDC12531 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/4891913721_a65c2f12be.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12531" /></a>
A little down the road from San Cristóbal.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4891914375/" title="SDC12533 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/4891914375_694aebfc94.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12533" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4891914673/" title="SDC12534 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4138/4891914673_01c32dee5c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12534" /></a>
With conifers, this could be somewhere in Europe or North America...

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4891915091/" title="SDC12535 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4075/4891915091_024e82e45f.jpg" width="500" height="376" alt="SDC12535" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4891915535/" title="SDC12536 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4116/4891915535_acd3fbf1dc.jpg" width="500" height="370" alt="SDC12536" /></a>
Corn is king.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4891916291/" title="SDC12539 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4115/4891916291_7361423d49.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12539" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4891916563/" title="SDC12540 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4080/4891916563_f5cdee75bb.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12540" /></a>


The name La Mesilla also appears at this crossing. I actually stopped at the banjercito, the military owned bank, about a mile from the actual border crossing. I went inside but all it mentioned was about importation, nothing about leaving. I had primarily stopped there to pull out the temporary vehicle importation paper which was hidden in a pile of documents I was carrying with me and figured it would be best not do that search at the border. I also put my GPS in my backback so it would be safe while I was at the crossing. I then rode to the crossing a mile away. I walked into the aduana on the Mexican side and asked them about cancelling the temporary import permit and even handed them the paper. They told me explicitly I didn't have to do anything. Well, I should have known better. In short, I never properly "exported" my vehicle from Mexico. Oh well, it's a mistake I can live with.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4892515880/" title="SDC12541 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4116/4892515880_03dd079bc7.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12541" /></a>
View from the Mexican aduano where they gave me the wrong information.

As for the Guatemalan side, it was no hassle:

1. first guy fumigates your vehicle for 12 quetzals ($1.50), then hands you a receipt for the fumigation.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4891917211/" title="SDC12542 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4143/4891917211_dec7b642c2.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12542" /></a>
The fumigation station. You can see the micracion in the background, my next stop.

2. I then walk to the adjacent building, migracion, where I hand them my passport. I received a spamp in my passport and that was it. Did not have to pay anything.
3. The next adjacent building is the aduano where I import my vehicle. Here, I hand them my passport, driver licence, title, and fumigation receipt. The lady there has to fill out some forms (while I fill one out too), make some copies, then she hands me a stack of papers and points me to the bank just to the right where I pay 40 quetzals. I then return to her and she gives me my title, driver licence, and passport back, as well as a sticker to affix to my bike and a big sheet of paper, my temporary import permit. So 52 quetzals ($6.50) and about 30 minutes later, I'm good to go. Amazingly easy.

The official exchange rate at this time is about 100 pesos ($8) for 60 quetzals. Luckily, all I had left was 100 pesos and there's a ton of guys there to change your money. Except, I didn't get the 60 quetzals but 50 quetzals. Definitely don't show up here expecting a good exchange rate

There is a cajero automatico (ATM) about a third of a mile up the road so I got cash there.

Except for the money changers, there were no fixers or anything, nor any need for them. This border crossing was really painless.

I screwed that the exportation of my vehicle but the local Mexican staff gave me the wrong information. Oh well. The key mistake was not knowing that the cancellation happens at the banjercito location.

Now I'm finally in Guatemala!
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4892516546/" title="SDC12543 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4120/4892516546_797b93b16b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12543" /></a>
So this is what Guatemala looks like...

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4891917811/" title="SDC12544 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4134/4891917811_76378aa70b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12544" /></a>
The border area is a really busy place. This was taken right outside of the bank where I went to the ATM.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4891918087/" title="SDC12545 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4078/4891918087_8a09100d3e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12545" /></a>

The roads in Guatemala were in pretty good condition. The only real difference I noticed is that the buses and trucks seemed to run a lot more sootier, if that's possible from Mexico. My lungs!

Somewhere along the line, maybe Totonicapan, the road turns into a highway with two lanes each way. Gorgeous new sweepers heading up into the hills. The only puzzling thing is that the hillsides are just vertical cliffs of dirt with no measure taken to secure them, leading to lots of rock and mudslides. Other than that, great road!

Less than 10 miles from Panajachel, in a town that i thought was called La Feria but now can't seem to locate on the map, I run into rain. Not just rain, a downpour. Add to that 30ft visibility due to intense fog and a steep downhill San Francisco style to the lakeside Panajachel and you can say that this was an extremely interesting bit of riding. I reached the hotel without a hitch though, dropped off my stuff and decided to hit the town for some food.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4891918775/" title="SDC12547 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4074/4891918775_6bd593c435.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12547" /></a>
Guajimbo's, an Uruguayan restaurant, my favorite place so far on the entire trip. I needed a good steak and they provided.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4892518172/" title="SDC12548 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4098/4892518172_1283291f30.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12548" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4891919845/" title="SDC12550 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4134/4891919845_3cbe948188.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12550" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4891920239/" title="SDC12551 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4120/4891920239_1672a082a0.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12551" /></a>
Two volcanos. I think there is a third one lurking nearby.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4891922239/" title="SDC12556 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4080/4891922239_0a15bac3cc.jpg" width="400" height="500" alt="SDC12556" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4892521720/" title="SDC12557 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4076/4892521720_88b6540711.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12557" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4892520500/" title="SDC12554 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4101/4892520500_cd400671f7.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12554" /></a>
The fleet of boats will get you to any other town on the lake.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4891924161/" title="SDC12562 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4135/4891924161_6e3c647f09.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12562" /></a>
What a backdrop.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4892523756/" title="SDC12563 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4138/4892523756_90cb071eb5.jpg" width="500" height="369" alt="SDC12563" /></a>

Tomorrow, I'll head to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antigua_Guatemala">Antigua</a>.
 
I'm presently stuck in Panajachel. My bike fired up this morning under choke but died a minute later. It's restarted a few times since but died each time. Now I'm having the battery recharged as it was dead. Since it's Sunday, the mechanic shops are closed but the hotel owner was able to find one. Phew.

I pulled the spark plugs and they looked rather dark:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4894886226/" title="IMG_0816 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4076/4894886226_e52611c588.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_0816" /></a>

(one is the old set I took with me as spares, the double headed ones are the ones in the bike). They look pretty dark, dont they?

So I figure it's a problem with the fuel/air mixture so I'll turn in the fuel/air screw by half a turn when the battery is back. I cleaned the spark plugs as best I could too...
 
now definitely stuck in panajachel

After getting the battery back, the bike fired up fine. I let it warm up for 5 minutes with the choke on. After a minute or two, it would start having problems but continue to run. I removed the choke and the bike idled for another 3-4 minutes, then died.

With nothing else to do, I yanked the carb but when I tried to remove the float body chamber, I saw that the screws were partially stripped. One I was able to remove but the other wont budge without stripping further. So without being able to peak inside and with the mechanic's shop closed since it's Sunday, I'm pretty much out of options for now and still no closer to an answer.

The bike dying on idle on me though sounds rather familiar from my original problem which was due to the tear in the o-ring. I wonder if that's it again? I guess I wont know until tomorrow..
 
and now it's working!

Thanks to a couple guys on the DR650 yahoo group!

They told me to yank the factory inline fuel filter. I went back, found the filter and took it out. I took a couple pictures just now:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4895811386/" title="SDC12567 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4078/4895811386_78d3708b31.jpg" width="500" height="332" alt="SDC12567" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4895216351/" title="SDC12568 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4121/4895216351_349f173104.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="SDC12568" /></a>

You can see there is some crud at the bottom of it so that would restrict fuel flow I'm sure. Anyhow, I took the filter out, reinstalled the carb, and started it up. It was fine with the choke, then I let it idle without and it was fine as well. I rode around town a bit, filled up the gas tank, rode around some more and it's fine now...

I guess the test will be to see if it starts up tomorrow but for now, it looks promising.

I still have the problem that I can't access the float chamber with that partially stripped screw. I should also get a complete o-ring and gasket set for the carb while I'm at it. Finally, a longer fuel/air screw would be nice as well. Is there any place that sells all of those things?

Thanks!

Michael
 
Michael, great report so far. sorry about the bike problems. a few things, see if you can get a replacement filter, as that one seems to be toast.

see if you can reshape the head of the float chamber screw, by tapping the head of the screw with a socket extension piece. it will remold the top of the screw enough to then hammer in the screwdriver (all of this, if you have enough room to access it), then slowly, with a lot of down pressure see if you can get the screw to start turning.

not sure about the fuel/air screw.

as for exporting your bike from Mexico. If you ever go back, it will have to be done for that bike. what's of greater importance, is that if you have a vehicle "imported", you can not import a new one (say, a different bike next time), until this one is taken care of.

You have 6 months to do it, and all it takes is a run to the border to do it. not a huge deal, but definitely something to take care of sometime. I wouldn't worry about it just now.

again, your photos are stellar. and you seem to be handling these bike issues without much fault. nothing to do sometimes, but step back, take a deep breath, drink a beer, and eat a good meal, everything works out in the end. as it has so far.

you will enjoy Antigua. If you happen on an irish bar, owned by a lady, it might be a friend of mine still (hasher from the states). ... have a few for me.

cheers
 
Hey Mike!

It looks to me that that little filter could indeed be the problem. Just chuck it. You have an in-line filter anyway. As far as getting the stripped screw out, a small vicegrip will work fine. Just pop it on there and and the screw should break loose. Procycle does indeed make a nice extended fuel mixture screw with a nice little knurled wheel on the end for easy turning. Check their website! Couldn't hurt to ask 'em about your problem too. They are really nice guys and know about all there is to know about DRs. Fab report! It's my first stop every A.M. with a nice cuppa coffee in hand!
 
Day 19

Dia: 19
Fecha: Domingo, 15 de Agosto
Today's ride: stuck in Panajachel with fuel gremlins
Total Miles: 3895

Remember my starting problems from Acapulco and how I was worried they may come back? They did, with a vengeance.

I leave my hotel room at 8am with thoughts of heading to Antigua Guatemala today. I start the bike, letting it warm up. I don all my gear, including the helmet and gloves. Walking the 30ft to the front office to drop off my room key, I am stopped in my tracks by the engine falling silent. A few tries at starting the bike yields a few starts but each time, the engine sputters to a halt after a couple minutes. It just wont idle and any time I try to open the throttle, the engine sputters. There is definitely a problem with the fuel/air mixture. After the third try, no more luck. I hope for similar outcome to Acapulco where leaving it for an hour or so led to it starting so I go to a restaurant for breakfast.

After ordering breakfast, I open the newspaper that was lying on my table.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4895812826/" title="IMG_0814 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4074/4895812826_371bd134a4.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_0814" /></a>
Pages 2 & 3 are pretty chilling. Several deaths and murders and pretty graphic pictures.

The rest of the paper has lots of articles, advice, photos, and as expected, lots of football but imagine my surprise when I find this towards the end:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4895217551/" title="IMG_0815 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/4895217551_fca1c2e7e4.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_0815" /></a>
I guess people need some cheering up? The following two pages had a large spread as well.

Well, after that welcome diversion, I head back and give the bike a try. A few tries, a few start but each time, it sputters to a stop. I finally succumb to the inevitable and start disassembling the bike. I first check the spark plugs. After receiving some advice from people, I'm told they look fine (no carbon build up) but I clean them anyway. No dice, problem unsolved. I swap the spark plugs for the pair I had brought along for the trip. Again, no luck. I then open the airbox. There's no fuel so at least I know I didn't flood the engine. Alas, at this point, the repeated starts have drained the battery. I ask the staff about nearby motorcycle shops to have the battery recharged but both turn out to be closed. Doh, it's Sunday! Luckily, the hotel owner finds a place that can charge the battery for me and drives me there. On top of that, with rain looming and feeling pretty sure that I'm stuck in Panajachel for another day, he offers me my room for an extra night for half the price, just $12.50! I'm very thankful.

With the recharged battery back in the bike an hour later, I give my next theory a shot: Figuring that the fuel/air mixture is too rich, I adjust the fuel/air screw on the carburetor by half a turn. It's not easily accessible but I make it work. Alas, no luck. I am now faced with the one thing I did not want to do, pulling the carb. This ended up being not too hard (it's putting it back in that is a major pain) but I see that one of the screws holding the float boat chamber in place is partially stripped. Alas, it's not only is it partially stripped but seated so hard that I'm unable to remove it and end up doing just more damage to the screw. So, at this point I'm utterly defeated. Unable to inspect and clean the carburetor, I am out of options but resign myself to having to wait for the motorcycle mechanic to open the next day.

I settle back into my room as it's raining outside when I catch up on a couple helpful emails that have come in on the Yahoo DR650 group. A couple people suggest removing the inline fuel filter that comes with the bike. Having added an additional fuel filter before the trip, I did not even know there was such a thing. It's right where the fuel line enters the carb. Here it is:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4895216351/" title="SDC12568 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4121/4895216351_349f173104.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="SDC12568" /></a>
Note how small it is and the crud that has accumulated. I figure this restricted the fuel flow by a good 20% or more?

So new invigorated, I get back to work reinstalling the carburetor and putting the bike together to test it now. It's alive!

After a good 10 minutes of idling and being able to open the throttle without the engine dying on me, I'm pretty confident that this fixes the problem.

Considering that this is the second fuel filter in line, it's obvious that this crud has been there from before the trip, basically whatever accumulated for the last eight years. So why was this giving me problems now? Two other modifications I had made before the trip was removing the snorkle (the only path into the airbox) and replacing the stock air filter with a K&N high flow air filter. These two changes should considerably improve airflow into the carburetor. My theory is that the stock setup did not mind the little bit of obstruction by the partially clogged filter but with the greater airflow with the new setup, the fuel line could not keep up anymore.

Tomorrow, I'm finally on my way again!
 
Day 20

Dia: 20
Fecha: Lunes, 16 de Agosto
Today's ride: from <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panajachel">Panajachel</a> to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antigua_Guatemala">Antigua Guatemala</a>, ~65 miles, 2 hours
Total Miles: 3961

Today, my dream of sailing on the "steel rat" died. The <a href="http://www.stahlratte.org/">Stahlratte</a> is a German 80ft two-mast schooner that is one of the boats that does the Panama to Colombia run, the way to cross the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Darien_Gap">Darién Gap</a>. The Darién Gap is the section between Panama and Colombia where no road connection exists. It is therefore not possible to ride or drive from Central to South America. The only options are to sail around, usually from <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carti_Sugtupu">Cartí Sugtupu, Panama</a> to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cartagena,_Colombia">Cartagena, Colombia</a> or fly across. The sail sounds like fun as it's a five day cruise with many stops along the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Blas_Islands">San Blas Islands</a>. There are very good reasons I wanted to make it onto the Stahlratte. She happens to be by far the largest boat doing this trip, I know a couple people that have been on it and have recommended it, and the skipper, Ludwig, has been extremely responsive and helpful. I've also heard bad stories from some other boats of the "the skipper was gone for three days, three sheets to the wind, partying away on one of the islands" variety.

Alas, with the departure now only seven days away, the schedule was getting really tight. My plan today was to leave <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panajachel">Panajachel</a> early, explore <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antigua_Guatemala">Antigua Guatemala</a> a bit, then head to the border with <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/El_Salvador">El Salvador</a>, spend a little time in the Western highlands before entering <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honduras">Honduras</a> where the goal would be <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copan">Copán</a> and its ruins. With the bike running smoothly, I'm on the road by 7am. A couple miles out of town, I'm greeted by this:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4899317078/" title="SDC12571 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4118/4899317078_7af81417f1.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12571" /></a>
Yep, that road is a gone.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4899326338/" title="SDC12572 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4141/4899326338_286114da0d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12572" /></a>
I actually managed to cross this with a guy helping me through the mud. The sketchiest part was pushing the bike along a wooden beam at the very edge of the slide. The beam was barely wider than the tire, and the drop off a good 50ft. You can actually make it out in the picture below the backhoe.

Another ten miles down the road and there's a bridge missing. There's a well travelled path down to the river and I ford the river with nary a thought. After traversing that mudslide, nothing phases me. What nags me though is my itinerary. At this point, I have no spare time to make it to Panama. I'm reduced to hoping that there are no more breakdowns, no more mudslides, no more missing bridges, all the way from Guatemala to Panama. I come to the conclusion that I'd be better off buying a lottery ticket with those chances. So after reaching <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antigua_Guatemala">Antigua Guatemala</a> after less than two hours, I find a hotel. The old plan is out the window.

I find a hotel and go to take a shower where I encounter my first sketchy shower head:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4898749023/" title="SDC12574 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4118/4898749023_a76b61b8de.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12574" /></a>
Wonder how well those wires are insulated.

Afterwards, I go exploring a bit. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antigua_Guatemala">Antigua Guatemala</a>, now really just called Antigua, used to be the old capital of Guatemala but it was moved to what is now Guatemala City after the city was mostly destroyed in an 1773 earthquake.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4898754247/" title="SDC12575 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4077/4898754247_72c3ba8d48.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12575" /></a>
La Merced.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4899353714/" title="SDC12576 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4074/4899353714_af9a49be6a.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12576" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4899386736/" title="SDC12580 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4082/4899386736_584aa56599.jpg" width="500" height="323" alt="SDC12580" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4899415728/" title="SDC12584 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4093/4899415728_3a8a1f295b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12584" /></a>
Random street.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4899425782/" title="SDC12587 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4074/4899425782_a2c08fe28e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12587" /></a>
The Santa Catalina Arch.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4898851869/" title="SDC12591 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/4898851869_e7257e424c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12591" /></a>
The Cathedral.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4898881489/" title="SDC12597 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4073/4898881489_819c09911b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12597" /></a>
El Tanque. A public water tank where people can wash their clothes.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4898875889/" title="SDC12596 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4117/4898875889_161a62f1bc.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12596" /></a>
<a href="http://www.catours.co.uk/">CATours</a> is an outfit started by a Brit. I knew Chris Gwinner who works there from the <a href="http://www.hawkgt.com/">Hawklist</a> even though I haven't owned a Hawk in seven years. I decided to pay him a visit. So yes, if riding a motorcycle in Central America sounds like fun to you, CATours does lots of different trips, some more adventurous than others. The videos Chris showed me were awesome! Go check out the site!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4898905413/" title="SDC12601 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4115/4898905413_403c3d04e0.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12601" /></a>
The heavily armed guards everywhere somehow dont make me feel any safer.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4898910329/" title="SDC12602 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4077/4898910329_5ec6fdd8e1.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12602" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4898926377/" title="SDC12604 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4093/4898926377_a399fd4919.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12604" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4898941795/" title="SDC12607 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4120/4898941795_c837812001.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12607" /></a>
View over the entire city. A volcano in the background is partially hidden by the clouds.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4898984203/" title="SDC12614 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4142/4898984203_1aaba55f19.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12614" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4899513533/" title="SDC12616 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4141/4899513533_ac4f74d030.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12616" /></a>
And a photo late in the evening.

Chris recommended I check out a place called <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Semuc_Champey">Semuc Champey</a>, halfway to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tikal">Tikal</a>. It is a series of pools that are spring-fed while a river runs underneath it all. With my schedule much more relaxed now, I figured I would follow his suggestion.
 
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the photos are phenomenal. and I wish I'd explored Guatemala more when I was there.

why not skip a few things and get yourself to the ship? maybe you can do them on the way back, or save them for anothe trip. maybe a more relaxed trip, and fly down. :dunno just some thoughts. mostly because it sounds like the ship thing would be awesome.

as for borders, remember, the further south you go, the slower things move. and a lot of bearucracy (sp?). you are doing amazing dude. the repairs, and moving around the towns, is really good.

armed guards are par for the course. their'll be more in El Salvador....we found them at any shop, store or what not, where there might be a good chunk of cash. from assault shotguns, uzi's, ak's, etc...you name it...even at a candy store one time. :laughing
 
Day 21

Dia: 21
Fecha: Martes, 17 de Agosto
Today's ride: from <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antigua_Guatemala">Antigua Guatemala</a> to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coban">Cobán</a> via <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Semuc_Champey">Semuc Champey</a>, ~180 miles, 7 hours
Total Miles: 4141

Leaving Antigua this morning, I finally got to the see one of the volcanoes.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4909057158/" title="SDC12622 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4140/4909057158_4d3af99339.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12622" /></a>
Yeah, I think that qualifies as a nice view of a volcano.

My day's goal was to reach <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Semuc_Champey">Semuc Champey</a>, a series of spring fed pools halfway to Tikal. To get there, I had to drive though Guatemala City.

A word about Guatemalan drivers. They drive with God as their co-pilot. Overtaking on outside of turns? No problem! Overtaking with oncoming traffic just a few hundred feet away? Bring it on! Of particular interest to a lane-splitting motorcyclist like yours truly are the habits of changing lanes. In the normal course of things, people change lanes when there is an open space. This makes lane-splitting relatively safe in the US at least. You really just have to be careful when there is any open space in a lane adjacent to a car. It's different here: Guatemalans change lanes regardless of there being a space. If there is not, they expect that there will be at some point in the future. It makes life tricky for motorcyclists, to say the least.

So riding through Guatemala City morning rush is not something you wish on anybody. Besides the hazards, there is the issue of soot emanating from every vehicle. The trucks and busses are of course the worst but many of the pickup trucks can hold their own with their huge black clouds. What's surprising is to see some really new and modern vehicle belching forth. It seems the manufacturers deliberately build inferior vehicles for these markets.

By the way, remember that yellow bus you rode to school on? I found it! It seems every single one of them has made it to Mexico and Central America, sans pollution control system.

Glad to have made it through Guat City, I wound my way up to Semuc Champey.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4908464759/" title="SDC12625 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4141/4908464759_c310d41f70.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12625" /></a>
I think I mentioned Central America is lush. They plant corn wherever they can.

The last 15 miles to Semuc Champey get interesting. It lies at the bottom of a pretty deep valley and this last section is gravel, potholes, and rocks, with lots of ascents and steep descents. It takes me over an hour and I can't say I'm having much fun. I'm mostly breaking with the rear brake and after 5 miles, it gives out, the level just goes limp. 5 minutes later, it's back. I wonder if the steep descents and ascents are causing problems with the reservoir?

There is a hostel right by the pools so I stop there and make a bee-line for the water.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4909063756/" title="SDC12629 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4094/4909063756_486290ba87.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12629" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4908474519/" title="SDC12636 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4141/4908474519_ae0a126a36.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12636" /></a>
Here you can see the river enter the caves underneath the pools. It pops back out a few hundred meters further down. Hence, no river water reaches the pools, all spring fed.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4908476135/" title="SDC12638 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4139/4908476135_d456cb165f.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12638" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4909066692/" title="SDC12632 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4139/4909066692_dbde502408.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12632" /></a>

After a couple hours of enjoying the pools, I was wondering what to do with the rest of my day, very much worried about the 15 miles back on that horrible road so I decided to be productive and tackle that section. I really just wanted to get it out of my life. I packed back up and headed out. The way back was tedious but I made it back to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coban">Cobán</a> after a few hours. I did not have a hotel address for the town so I just circled until I found something, anything. It was an old hotel full of Habitat for Humanity volunteers this night. Luckily, there was a bank across the street as I was running low on cash.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4908480087/" title="IMG_0818 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4102/4908480087_ee0c6f0ece.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_0818" /></a>
Yes, that's three heavily armed guards outside. I feel safer already?!

I didn't have a chance to talk to the volunteers as I passed out completely exhausted by 7pm. Next day, off to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tikal">Tikal</a>.
 
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Truly epic... must have felt great to beat the gnarly road conditions and return to a place where the heart can relax a bit.. :teeth

:thumbup

:smoking
 
Just checking in to say I'm really enjoying the report and pics. Looking forward to more.
 
new gremlins

I'm a few days behind on the daily posts but now I have a new problem.

So everything was going well for the last week. Bike ran fine even in some rather difficult conditions. Yesterday though, new gremlins:

From Copan Ruinas, Honduras, I was traveling towards south towards the border to El Salvador. Pretty close to the border, there is a large climb from an altitude of maybe 2000ft to over 6000ft. The bike would suddenly start sputtering at somewhere near 5000ft. At the same time, I was facing torrential rain. The bike didn't die thoug and there really wasn't a place for me to stop and do anything about it so I kept going, revving the engine to keep the sputter at bay. On the downhill, the problem continued but disappeared once I dropped below 5000ft. Incidentally, that is also when the rain stopped. I crossed the border and got to my oceanside destination near La Libertad with no further problems.

Now, my first thought was, I had adjusted the fuel/air screw during my previous set of problems (the one fixed with the removal of the stock inline fuel filter) so maybe the bike was now running leaner (my mpg had improved from about 44mpg to 48mpg last I checked) and too lean for higher altitudes.

Overnight, it was pouring and my bike was out in the rain. When I started it this morning, I ran fine, though belching white smoke. I'm going to guess that was water vapor from the rain that had entered the exhaust.

A little out of La Libertad, the bike starts sputtering again. I'm at sea level so the altitude theory is out the window. Or maybe the problem had progressed and gotten worse? At the same time, it started raining again...

Climbing up the 3000ft to San Salvador, the bike keeps sputtering but as long as I give it a good amount of gas, it's fine. Interestingly, at no point does it ever die on me.

The rain turns into a torrent in San Salvador so I pull over for 20 minutes before it lets up a bit. My destination, Alegria, is about 60 miles from San Salvador and for most of that distance, it rains a good amount. 20 miles from the destination, I descend to 150ft and the bike stops sputtering. The rain too has stopped. The final climb to Alegria is 3800ft, all in dry conditions. No sputter.

So the original correlation with altitude is gone but remains to the rain. I'm not sure how to tackle this.

My setup:
IMS tank with an added fuel filter (stock filter is gone now). This morning, I did see a bit of rust on the petcock...
K&N oval high flow filter
snorkle removed
Sargent seat.

I opened the plug on the airbox, no fluid so there isnt some huge amount of water (or fuel) in there.

My theories:
1. well the altitude one is out the window as this happened at sea level now too
2. water entering combustion chamber.. but how and from where? tank? airbox?
3. moisture from rain affecting electrical system somehow... ?

Thanks for any help!

Sincerely,

Michael
 
machete said:
the photos are phenomenal. and I wish I'd explored Guatemala more when I was there.

why not skip a few things and get yourself to the ship? maybe you can do them on the way back, or save them for anothe trip. maybe a more relaxed trip, and fly down. :dunno just some thoughts. mostly because it sounds like the ship thing would be awesome.

as for borders, remember, the further south you go, the slower things move. and a lot of bearucracy (sp?). you are doing amazing dude. the repairs, and moving around the towns, is really good.

armed guards are par for the course. their'll be more in El Salvador....we found them at any shop, store or what not, where there might be a good chunk of cash. from assault shotguns, uzi's, ak's, etc...you name it...even at a candy store one time. :laughing
Click to expand...

I can still take a sailboat, it just wont be the Stahlratte. It just seemed like the best option but I'll see when I get to Panama. If there is nothing to my liking, I'll just fly. I'm glad I didn't skip Tikal or El Salvador. I'm now in Alegria, El Salvador, a few days late on my blog but finally some time to do something about it :)
 
very cool dude. I"m going to say it may be related to the rain/moisture. how are your spark plug wires? are they plugged in completely? any water pooling near them, it?

have you drained the fuel and put new fuel in, to clear any possible moisture in the tank or lines? maybe check your gas cap and make sure it is sealed completely...and visually inspect your entire fuel delivery route? :dunno

someone else may have other ideas? good luck man
 
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