• There has been a recent cluster of spammers accessing BARFer accounts and posting spam. To safeguard your account, please consider changing your password. It would be even better to take the additional step of enabling 2 Factor Authentication (2FA) on your BARF account. Read more here.

Solo bump-start technique?

yup...2nd (sometimes third) everything ON...push, push PUSH...jump aboard sidesaddle & dump the clutch...yeah that usually works...
we instructed a mate...who was having problems cranking up his oldish rgv250 (well flooded)
well...he did it perfectly, save he forgot to hop aboard...
the bike caught, and went 0-40mph in a nanosecond...leaving him on his arse...and his bike travelling towards imminent destruction towards a parked truck in it's trajectory...
...thankfully, it ran out of steam about 20ft from said truck & kind of toppled onto it's side smashing a shit load of bodywork...but how we laughed...:teeth
 
After push starting my superhawk a billion times I

A VTR100F Superhawk?

jeez, talk about a lot of compression to deal with. I recall trying to bump start the VTR I had, on a hill. When I released the clutch in 2nd gear it would just skid to a stop without turning the rear wheel. 3rd gear would get it, but even so, an awful lot of resistance to overcome.
 
yep, those who sagely advise how to bump a 1k-V-twin proably haven't ever actually done it

SV650s respond to 2nd-gear bumps, but 3rd may be even easier [especially with that luggage]

SV1k, S'Hawk, RC, TL-R require 3rd, mebbe even 4th to not drag the rear tire -
even then, enlisting help is advised

I've never been able to bump my 1.4L Buell solo
 
150#

there's an [unverified] Doug Chandler story about him getting exasperated back in the day while Italian mechanics couldn't bump start his Ducati - he had em employ the rear spool stand, put it in a hi gear, and spun the wheel quickly with his hand, starting the bike.....

it's an old-school, "is your XR750 set up correctly?" dirt track trick
 
After push starting my superhawk a billion times Ive found the easiest way is to just run along side it in 2nd without jumping on. After about 20 feet on flat pavement you should have enough speed to let the clutch out and get the motor to turn over.

Same for me. I did this to an EX500, to a ZX7, and to an RSV Mille.

Before the very first time I had to bump start a bike, I remember reading about jumping on the bike once you let the clutch out, but I've never had to as all I had to do was run alongside it, let out the clutch, and as soon as it catches, just pull the clutch in just as quickly and smoothly pull on the front brakes. I actually didn't like anybody pushing along with me.

Never failed me.
 
Never had the guts to jump on the bike side saddle. Ok to ride it that way but........ Seems like one of those things that you have to totally commit to or else. May be asking for an embarrasing "fail" the first couple of times. Anyone have a bike I can borrow to practice?:laughing
 
Last edited:
One thing to keep in mind is that it may be impossible to bump start a fuel injected bike if the battery is completely dead.

I attempted this on my GSX-R after leaving the lights on all weekend. Even with a jump start, I couldn't keep the engine running once the cables were disconnected. I suspect it's because the stator won't pump out enough electricity to satisfy the demands of the battery as well as the ECU, fuel injectors, and ignition.

I might have been able to ride it had I kept the revs high enough, but it wouldn't idle. Too much risk of getting stranded, IMO.

So, you won't consider one set of lights because they will blind drivers. Instead you install another set of lights and intentionally angle them so that they will blind other drivers :wtf

If you install HIDs on a bike designed for halogen lights, the reflective optics will scatter the light in such a way that it will blind oncoming drivers. The effect can be far worse than leaving the brights on, as HIDs put out more light. Even worse, the HIDs will have the wrong beam spread, possibly creating light and dark spots. If all that light is in the wrong place, you may loose light where you need it, while simultaneously throwing off your night vision. Having blind motorists driving straight at you isn't exactly safe either.

The lighting the OP describes is purpose built for motorcycling, with the correct lenses and reflective optics installed. If designed properly, blinding other drivers and improper light distribution will not be issues.

HID retrofit kits are illegal for a reason.
 
Funny, just had to do this on my g/f's bike mid-ride this last Saturday. We ended up doing the following:

If the battery is so low that bump starting is difficult, try pulling the fuses for the headlight, tail lights, etc., to lighten the load and raise the 12 volt system voltage. Just leave the one fuse for the ignition circuit. Pull the choke, if it's a manual choke, to raise the idle speed. After you get it running, don't forget to put the fuses back in and push the choke back in after a few miles!!
 
The only problem with running with the bike solo and not hopping on before popping the clutch is that once started, I get on the brakes lightly because I am more comfortable slowly slowing down rather than abruptly. I find 7mph to be the sweet speed for me to bump start the f4i.
 
SD,

that's great advice about the fuses

it got me thinking about fuel injection & the fact that most of what's been posted so far really only applies to carbureted machines

ace Scuderia wrench Niles Follin [foto below] educated me on the voltage needs of FI when Joice's Tuono wouldn't bump-start
[it had a truly dead battery] - further, that even when a FI-equipped M/C turns over with the starter, the voltage may well not be enough to get the FI up & running

so, bumping a FI bike may be futile, depending on make & model.....
 

Attachments

  • ApriliaNilesFollin.jpg
    ApriliaNilesFollin.jpg
    28.8 KB · Views: 51
UPDATE: Well, if I had an on-board voltmeter, I not only would have been "reminded" to turn my aux lights off while idling for a long period, but I also would've noticed that my charging system has turned weak-sauce on me. I used this incident as a convenient reminder to do my regular check on the charging system and it's not putting out what it should.

Since I have a spare RR (from a previous mis-diagnosis), I popped the spare RR in and still have a problem. Which means it's most likely my stator. Again. I'm going to post something in the garage now because this is the 2nd stator that's gone bad, if that is the problem. And the first time it went was before I installed the aux lights, so I doubt that's the problem.
 
Back
Top