SV650s not starting... hellpp!!!

[Burning1]

There is no click on gen one SVs, they are carbureted and have a vacumn fuel pump. NO SOUNDS AT ALL when you turn the key on.

Are you saying that the SV650 doesn't have a single relay wired to the ignition?

Edit... I checked the Fiche, and didn't see any relays, other than the starter. That's pretty damned surprising! Even my GS500 has a relay that clicks when the ignition is turned on.

 

[afm199]

Are you saying that the SV650 doesn't have a single relay wired to the ignition?

Edit... I checked the Fiche, and didn't see any relays, other than the starter. That's pretty damned surprising! Even my GS500 has a relay that clicks when the ignition is turned on.

Yes I am saying that. You don't hear any clicks.

 

[Burning1]

Personally... I would expect there to be charging system problems in addition to a dead battery.

 

[djgtekfrmsanjo]

With bike off it wad around 11.7 and with lights on at 10.25 and dropping. Sounds like a new battery? Anyone know which of those batterys at cycle gear would fit my bike? I think they have the duraboost life time warranty batterys. These any good?

 

[djgtekfrmsanjo]

Also i just installd a gorilla alarm on the bike a few weeks ago and it was sitting the entire week with the alarm on. Maybe this killed it?

 

[afm199]

With bike off it wad around 11.7 and with lights on at 10.25 and dropping. Sounds like a new battery? Anyone know which of those batterys at cycle gear would fit my bike? I think they have the duraboost life time warranty batterys. These any good?

You need a new battery. You probably need a new regulator as well. Just go to cycle gear and ask them cross match for your SV. YT12A BS is what you should have. Start the bike with the FULLY CHARGED BATTERY and then measure the voltage again.

disconnect your burglar alarm for now. it is just one more problem

 

[Burning1]

Also i just installd a gorilla alarm on the bike a few weeks ago and it was sitting the entire week with the alarm on. Maybe this killed it?

You're welcome to borrow one of my tenders if you'd like to try charging the battery before you replace it.

AFM199 is spot on as usual. Check out your charging system, and disconnect the alarm.

I'd recommend also performing an amperage draw test between the battery and the positive terminal to see what the phantom draw is on the bike. You can use that figure to see how long the bike can sit with the alarm attached before the battery is halfway discharged.

 

[djgtekfrmsanjo]

Hmm is the yb12a the same as yt12a?

 

[mototireguy]

Also i just installd a gorilla alarm on the bike a few weeks ago and it was sitting the entire week with the alarm on. Maybe this killed it?

Bingo! Bike alarms are notorious for draining batteries. Especially if the bike is not being used every few days.

A new healthy battery should read at least 12.6-12.8volts. Voltage readings below 12.5v indicate dying or dead battery.

When the bike is running again run another voltage test. A good bike charging system should result in seeing readings of 14.0v-14.4v when the bike is running at low-mid rpms. 14.4volts is the optimum charging voltage.

If you see readings under 13.9v the bike electrics are undercharging or not charging the battery.

If you see readings over 14.7v the bike is overcharging and boiling/killing the battery.

At least 20 battery issue and answer threads here in the BARF Garage. Don't forget to try the search function.

 

[Chris_BR]

Just to add - start pushing in neutral, shift to second when you have some momentum, and pull the clutch back in right after you pop it. You'll either have started and can then ride, or you'll have not started and want to build a little more momentum. If you're not rolling downhill, tell your pusher to keep pushing until the engine is running. If your rear wheel locks, bounce on the back when you pop the clutch (or try it in third).

Make sure your on the bike and in control before popping the clutch...

My fence and myself learned this the hard way :|

 

[djgtekfrmsanjo]

The sv is alive!!! I purchased a bikemaster battery from cycle gear and it fired right up after install! I took a voltage reading of 12.90 with the bike sitting without lights on and around 13.70 while bike is idle. Does this sound right for a battery right out the box? The salesperson mentioned it was only 80% charged after she filled it. Also is there any way to test the charging system? Also, i went ahead and reattached the alarm but plan to keep it unarmed when i park it for a long duration. A deactivated alarm shouldnt drain the battery, right? Thanks for all your help BARF!

 

[Marlowe]

The alarm is probably your problem, and you're going to kill that new battery.

Alarms are a steady drain (albeit low current.)

Park your bike for a while, and it's going to be discharged.

If the battery was just filled, you really should top it off first, using a smart charger like a Battery Tender -- which you're going to need anyway if you plan to let it sit with an alarm.

 

[afm199]

Until you figure out what is drawing the current, leave the alarm off.

Your bike should charge at 14-14.7 volts at 5000 rpm, as mentioned. It probably won't.
13.7 will never fully charge the battery but will keep you going for awhile. If you plug the alarm back in you might just as well get a battery charger right now, cuz you are going to have a dead battery every week.

 

[acer66]

OP, I would still eliminate the harness extension to the R/R and wire it directly to the battery.

 

[afm199]

OP, I would still eliminate the harness extension to the R/R and wire it directly to the battery.

the harness is not the problem with SVs, the cheap regulator is the problem

 

[mototireguy]

] I took a voltage reading of 12.90 with the bike sitting without lights on and around 13.70 while bike is idle. Does this sound right for a battery right out the box?

Good to hear the bike is running again.

13.7v when the bike is running at low-mid rpms is not enough to properly charge the battery.

We have already advised you in this thread of wanting to see 14.4v, and what it means when the bike running voltage is too high or too low.

Please wake up and pay attention and run the voltage tests as detailed again or your new battery may soon become another dead battery.

 

[acer66]

I know the reputation SVRider has here but there are a couple of guys over there which just did the wiring mod on the 99-01 models
and improved the voltage to the proper numbers.

Not saying I would do that without exchanging the R/R but it seems to help.
Looking just at that 6" harness extension it seems no wonder why.

 

[afm199]

I don't take SV rider seriously, but I do replace the SV regulator with a GSXR regulator. The gen one, not gen two, regulators are total shit and all end up putting out 13.5 volts or so after a few years. I doubt one gen one bike out of ten is producing over 14 volts with a stock regulator. There is nothing wrong with the harness, it's not carrying more than a few amps and is fine.

 

[Marlowe]

It's a placebo more than anything.

You're not pushing enough electrons through that wire to need a heavier gauge. And if you're seeing that much drop from the stock harness, your connectors could stand a cleaning, or aren't seated properly.

 

[acer66]

I don't take SV rider seriously, but I do replace the SV regulator with a GSXR regulator. The gen one, not gen two, regulators are total shit and all end up putting out 13.5 volts or so after a few years. I doubt one gen one bike out of ten is producing over 14 volts with a stock regulator. There is nothing wrong with the harness, it's not carrying more than a few amps and is fine.

I think SVRider has around the same amount of BS going on like most forums.
You just have to know who to listen to.
Any reason not to go with the CBR mosfet units?

It's a placebo more than anything.

You're not pushing enough electrons through that wire to need a heavier gauge. And if you're seeing that much drop from the stock harness, your connectors could stand a cleaning, or aren't seated properly.

The wiring mod is to eliminate the unnecessary ~6" harness extension with it additional connectors to prevent that in the 1. place.

Looking at the crimping tool thread, I think it was said that these oem connectors are not the best to use.

What you are saying might mean that not the wire on the extension is the problem,
it`s additional amount of not very good connectors which cause the problem on the 99-01 models.

I still have to see an unusual high amount of 02 R/R`s to fail which do have an updated R/R but also do not have the harness extension.