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SV650s not starting... hellpp!!!

Keep in mind, the manufacturer is aiming for lowest cost, cheapest tooling and easiest manufacture that will get you through the warranty period.

It's no problem for them if you have to buy a new harness, or reg/rec after that. In fact, looking at what they charge for either, they make a lot of money that way.
 
acer66 said:
Any reason not to go with the CBR mosfet units?



Tal amount of not very good connectors which cause the problem on the 99-01 models.

I still have to see an unusual high amount of 02 R/R`s to fail which do have an updated R/R but also do not have the harness extension.
Click to expand...

The GSXR regulators are cheap. They last forever.

It is NOT the connnectors which cause the problem, they overheat WHEN THE REGULATOR fails. I've replaced maybe ten or twelve regulators with never a problem with the existing wiring. The 99-02 regulator is a POS which quickly breaks down to subnormal voltage.
 
I certainly do not have your experience, so I might have been just lucky with my two 02 models.

I had zero electrical problems with those two,
one still has the original battery in it and the other one just had it`s replaced last year.

My 00 model had the R/R going south 2 years ago and while the wiring mod might not be necessary I am enjoying the placebo effect. :)
 
afm199 said:
The GSXR regulators are cheap. They last forever.

It is NOT the connnectors which cause the problem, they overheat WHEN THE REGULATOR fails. I've replaced maybe ten or twelve regulators with never a problem with the existing wiring. The 99-02 regulator is a POS which quickly breaks down to subnormal voltage.
Click to expand...

Guess I'm gonna test my voltages this weekend. What displacement/year GSXR regulators are appropriate for the 1st gens?

Cheers

Lou
 
bellisan said:
Guess I'm gonna test my voltages this weekend. What displacement/year GSXR regulators are appropriate for the 1st gens?

Cheers

Lou
Click to expand...

No matter what reading you get I would change the R/R because it`s going to fail and might take the battery out too.
Don`t ask how I know ;)
This is a write up which also does the wiring mod but it gives you a lot of info in general also http://eviltwinsbk.com/forumz/index.php?topic=276.0
and the SV specific one http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=106041I
I might have a GSXR unit since I changed my mind and went with a Honda one.
 
bellisan said:
Guess I'm gonna test my voltages this weekend. What displacement/year GSXR regulators are appropriate for the 1st gens?

Cheers

Lou
Click to expand...

most of them I use the 2006 up. you either have to fabricate a bracket or just use one bolt hole and mount it at an angle.

the three wires to the alternator are used, the load side ( low voltage) has two sets of out wires, you can just tie the same color together in a crimp fitting.

You will have to cut the old connector off your old regulator.
 
when i charged the battery with it outside of the bike there was a spark after connecting the negative cable. is this normal or should i be grounding the battery somewhere...
 
djgtekfrmsanjo said:
when i charged the battery with it outside of the bike there was a spark after connecting the negative cable. is this normal or should i be grounding the battery somewhere...
Click to expand...

If you see a spark when disconnecting a cable, it means that something is drawing power when you disconnected the cable. If your ignition is off when you see the spark... Well, it means your battery is being drained while parked.

I take it you already disconnected the alarm?

Edit: I took your comment to mean that you saw a spark when disconnecting the battery from the bike. As AFM199 mentions below, it's normal for you to see a spark when disconnecting the charger.
 
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djgtekfrmsanjo said:
when i charged the battery with it outside of the bike there was a spark after connecting the negative cable. is this normal or should i be grounding the battery somewhere...
Click to expand...

was the spark when you disconncected the charger? That is normal
 
Key off, there shouldn't be any real drain.

If it's sparking when you reconnect it, something is on...so we're back to that new alarm system.

Have a friend with a DMM come over and measure current through that thing, with the ignition off.
 
the spark occured when i connected the charger with the battery out of the bike

when i reconnect the battery, there is no spark so i am guessing i am 'okay'
 
Yes, any time you complete a circuit, there may be a small arc.

That's normal.
 
thanks for all the help guys! got a couple more questions

as i said earlier, last night i fully charged the battery outside of the bike and was able to get a reading of about 13.3 volts after the tender read "fully charged". i took another reading around 7pm today as i was going to install the battery into my bike to take a ride around. according to my multimeter, it dropped to about 13.03. the battery was sitting outside on my balcony since i charged it last night. does this batter have an issue holding a charge? i just bought the battery on saturday from cycle gear so i'm wondering if i need to bring it back to exchange. as a note, when i bought the battery the salesperson filled the battery for me at sj cyclegear. when they brought it back there was acid powder all over the battery. i was surprised of how messy of a job they did filling the battery. not sure if this would mean my battery isn't going to function as a normal new battery...
 
Impossible to say.

Bad batteries typically have a high self-discharge rate, BUT:

The battery floats up above 13V when charged, but maximum capacity is closer to 12.7-12.8. If it discharges below 12.6, then I'd take that as a sign of sulfation or some other problem, but that is not terribly likely in a new battery.

Filling the electrolyte can get messy, it's not generally a huge deal. Since they have a lifetime warranty on those batteries I wouldn't be in a hurry to run back to CG...fix your problem first.
 
mototireguy said:
A new healthy battery should read at least 12.6-12.8volts. Voltage readings below 12.5v indicate dying or dead battery.

When the bike is running again run another voltage test. A good bike charging system should result in seeing readings of 14.0v-14.4v when the bike is running at low-mid rpms. 14.4volts is the optimum charging voltage.
Click to expand...

djgtekfrmsanjo said:
i took another reading around 7pm today as i was going to install the battery into my bike to take a ride around. according to my multimeter, it dropped to about 13.03. the battery was sitting outside on my balcony since i charged it last night. does this battery have an issue holding a charge?
Click to expand...

Please pay closer attention to the information already asked and answered.

13.03v is a very good above average bike-off battery voltage. Most healthy batteries read 12.7volts.

Are you using a digital or analog voltage meter? It seems a little strange you're seeing 13v.

Don't forget to run the bike running at low-mid rpms battery voltage tests too.
 
i actually got a bikemaster battery. does this have the same lifetime warranty? maybe i was misinformed

thanks everyone
 
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Please fix your problem, and stop worrying about the battery.

Problem first, battery discussion later.
 
afm199 said:
most of them I use the 2006 up. you either have to fabricate a bracket or just use one bolt hole and mount it at an angle.

the three wires to the alternator are used, the load side ( low voltage) has two sets of out wires, you can just tie the same color together in a crimp fitting.

You will have to cut the old connector off your old regulator.
Click to expand...

Hey Ernie,
Been reading about the R/R mods. Do you (or anyone else) have any opinions on the Yamaha MOSFET units for this application?

Cheers

Lou
 
mototireguy said:
Please pay closer attention to the information already asked and answered.

13.03v is a very good above average bike-off battery voltage. Most healthy batteries read 12.7volts.

Are you using a digital or analog voltage meter? It seems a little strange you're seeing 13v.

Don't forget to run the bike running at low-mid rpms battery voltage tests too.
Click to expand...

sorry for the delay, i was using a digital voltage meter
 
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