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Thoughts from a newbie

Congratulations on getting through the class! From what I recall, you don’t have experience operating a motor vehicle. It’s not uncommon for new riders to fail the range for various reasons. A person who has not operated a motor vehicle much or at all will have a steeper learning curve than someone who has driven thousands of miles, ridden bicycles a lot, perhaps a moped or dirtbike, etc. I’d just write it off to the process of getting caught up.

From what you’ve written above, it sounds like two skill areas are the keys: 1) use of the clutch from a standstill and 2) visual skills. As you point out, to learn to clutch properly, you’ll need access to a motorcycle. You can work on visual skills without one.

Motorcycles and cars move us through space faster than we can go on our feet. We have to use our eyes a little differently than when we are walking or running in the sense that we must look farther ahead. But how much farther?

You’ve done a good job of identifying a couple of important points about looking ahead. As you mentioned, when to look and what to look at are the keys to almost all other riding actions being accurate. One way of thinking about vision in a corner is the notion of selecting reference points in the turn. Keith Code has a lot to say on this topic in Twist II. It takes a minimum of three points to define the shape of an arc. Any turn you negotiate on a road can be described with three points, though often you cannot see all three from the approach to the turn.

The first point would be a turn point. As you approach the turn, you can select a point where you intend to turn, something on the road or near surface that you can see and recognize. Once you pick this point, you know you won’t turn until you arrive there. It’s possible once you get closer to it that you’ll decide to turn later than that, but rarely would you find you need to turn earlier.

This opens some doors on the approach to the turn. If you can choose a turn point well before arriving at the turn, you can use the time between where you are and that point to focus on your entry speed, being in the right gear, etc. this creates the sense of having more time because you have fewer things to allocate attention to.

As you get to within about a half second of the turn, you’ll want to look into the turn and find the next place you want to point the bike at. This answers the “when.” More on this in a bit.

The matter of what to look at depends on whether you can see the apex of the turn from where you are. If you can, that’s your target. If you’re not sure, select a point on the road surface that looks like it’s on the path to the apex. This point should be a few seconds ahead of where you are.

People will sometimes say, “Look as far as possible into the turn.” This is well meaning, but sometimes bad advice. In some turns, it is possible to see the exit from the entry. If you look at the exit from the entry, you would be disregarding the apex, that crucial third point required to describe the shape of the arc. This can (and has been known to) result in steering the bike into the dirt at the inside of the turn.

Instead, that second point is useful to you if it is the apex or on the path to the apex and far enough ahead that you have time to point the bike at it and confirm that your arc will intersect it. So, that’s the “what.” This gets us back to talking in more detail about the “when.”

Above, I mentioned looking into the turn about a half second before you arrive at the turn point. If the turn is unfamiliar, you may need to look a little sooner, but not so much that you end up wanting to hunt back and forth between the turn point and the apex (or whatever you have selected). It’s ideal if you look once, find your target and keep your eyes on that, while maintaining a peripheral awareness of the turn point so you know when to initiate your steering input.

So, why a half-second? This is about the time it takes to see something, make a decision about it and take action. If you look later than this, say, while you’re in the process of beginning to steer, you would be in a situation where you know where to steer but not how much to steer. This is where inaccurate steering comes from. A rider who looks into the turn about a half a second before the turn point, finds a target at or along the path to the apex and steers the bike toward that point will be more accurate and will feel like there is enough time.

You can practice this on a bicycle, keeping in mind that the distances will probably be greater on a motorcycle because of the difference in speed. You can also practice if you are a passenger in a vehicle where you can see out the windshield. While you’re not the one steering, you can still make decisions as if you were.

This is enough input from me for now. There is plenty to say on the topic but this should give you something you can work with.
 
- You mount from the left because of kickstand and because the exhaust is on the right

That is only half the story. Why is the kickstand on the left? This dates back to mounted warfare. Since most soldiers were right-handed they wore their swords on their left hip. As a result, mounting from the right was next to impossible as the sword would get in the way. That has carried through to how a motorcycle is set up. That said, with a little care, there is no reason you cannot enter/exit a motorcycle from the right. There are times when this is preferred.


Always back into parking spots

This is misleading. You want your bike pointing uphill. If the entry to parking spot slopes down, yes back in. If it slopes up, enter forwards. If the spot slopes sideways, you may have to get "creative". There are a couple of reasons for this. a) it is easier to back a bike downhill, b) you want gravity to be pulling the bike onto the kickstand. c) The angle of the kickstand is optimized to prevent it falling. Placing a bike on a side hill changes that angle increasing the chances of it falling.

Perhaps a better takeaway... When you have the choice, pick a level parking spot.

- Moss and wet leaves are considered extreme hazards alongside snow, ice, and mud

Gravel is a higher risk than moss as it is much more prevalent.

YammieNoob

I suggest replacing YammieNoob with MC Rider if you are looking for no-nonsense education.
 
9. Gear is (meant to be) comfortable while riding, not necessarily walking
I rode to the Long Beach Gran Prix once, walking around in my riding boots. They chafed the tops of my toes off. Not fun.

What this really means is you need to consider your riding gear if you plan to do any walking.
Push your handgrip INTO the wind direction if you are getting windblasted.
If you're in a constant wind, you'll find you have constant pressure on one of the bars. However, when you hit an underpass, or a big truck passes you and blocks the wind, you'll find yourself "suddenly" swerving toward whatever blocked the wind.

If an unseen wind gust blasts you, do a quick look about to see whether you need to fight it or if you can just ride it out and move with it. I've had more than a few unplanned lane changes with gusty winds coming out of canyons. Since there were no cars, I just went with the wind.


Always back into parking spots
I can honestly say I don't think I've ever backed into a parking spot. The "park up hill" is quite valid, as its definitely easier to let the gravity take you out. By the same notion, though, you can also just use the power the bike to pull you out.

The heavier the bike, the more important this is.

Alcohol impairs judgement first before anything else.
Judgement, including "Gee, did I drink too much to ride?". Simply, if you drank anything, you drank too much. Then its a simple rule, without judgement.

Sidestand pucks exist
So do crushed soda cans, they're cheaper, and if you forget to pick it up, it's easy to get another one. That said, there's also footpad extenders for kickstands. Mostly an issue on softer ground, no so much for asphalt.

On my VFR I carried around a 4x4 piece of 2x4. I found the VFRs kickstand a little short for my tastes. The block was a nice booster.
 
@riskybug ... Great write up! Nice to see that you continue to think after the class.

I'd like to clarify two things:
  • MSF stands for Motorcycle Safety Foundation. Their motorcycle curriculum stopped being taught in California in 2014. The curriculum you received was provided by Total Control.
  • When riding in cross winds, push the handlebar forward on the side that the wind is coming from. Ex: if wind is coming from the left, push the left handlebar forward and allow the motorcycle to lean into the wind.
  • There is no law defining the acceptable speed when lane splitting. I suspect your instructor shared his technique rather than clearly explain the law or point you towards the 'tips' on the CHP website. Note that tips are not laws.
 
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People will sometimes say, “Look as far as possible into the turn.” This is well meaning, but sometimes bad advice. In some turns, it is possible to see the exit from the entry. If you look at the exit from the entry, you would be disregarding the apex, that crucial third point required to describe the shape of the arc. This can (and has been known to) result in steering the bike into the dirt at the inside of the turn.
Ahh, this surely answers it! It was precisely this, I had even recieved advice on these scenarios where the exit is already visible to "pretend it is a blind turn"! Thank you for the detailed response, and I definitely will be checking out Twist II to further practice that idea of the points from turn point to apex. I was missing that apex completely.
 
This is misleading. You want your bike pointing uphill. If the entry to parking spot slopes down, yes back in. If it slopes up, enter forwards. If the spot slopes sideways, you may have to get "creative". There are a couple of reasons for this. a) it is easier to back a bike downhill, b) you want gravity to be pulling the bike onto the kickstand. c) The angle of the kickstand is optimized to prevent it falling. Placing a bike on a side hill changes that angle increasing the chances of it falling.

Perhaps a better takeaway... When you have the choice, pick a level parking spot.
Ah! This is really good to know, thank you for catching that! I hadn't even considered the slope of a road (and consequently the effects of gravity in relation to the kickstand) when parking.

Gravel is a higher risk than moss as it is much more prevalent.
Duly noted!

I suggest replacing YammieNoob with MC Rider if you are looking for no-nonsense education.
MCRider is solid.
Also noted! Thank you for the advice!
 
If an unseen wind gust blasts you, do a quick look about to see whether you need to fight it or if you can just ride it out and move with it. I've had more than a few unplanned lane changes with gusty winds coming out of canyons. Since there were no cars, I just went with the wind.

Ah yeah... the wind blasts are something that gives me a bit of intimidation since I'm not too sure how to recreate it in a parking lot or training scenario yet. I'll keep in mind in that some scenarios with wind riding it out can be better.
 
MSF stands for Motorcycle Safety Foundation. Their motorcycle curriculum stopped being taught in California in 2014. The curriculum you received was provided by Total Control.
Ack, CMSP is proper name. I got into a strong habit of saying MSF since I hear that often.

There is no law defining the acceptable speed when lane splitting. I suspect your instructor shared his technique rather than clearly explain the law or point you towards the 'tips' on the CHP website. Note that tips are not laws.
Interesting there is no specific speed number, thank you for letting me know that distinction!
 
CMSP = California Motorcyclist Safety Program. Prior to 2014 the Motorcycle Safety Foundation held the contract and provided the curriculum. From 2014 onward Total Control holds the contract.
 
The more I reflect and share my experience with my training, the more I run into "Well, more practically in real-life scenarios..." or "That's partially true, but..."

I'm sure I have misinterpreted some of the information, but I've also explictly gotten some contradictory information between one instructor and the next (namely whether or not holding the handlebars at a slight angle is good or not). I think in an attempt to cover complicated scenarios with easier-to-understand general statements, some information or accuracy might have been left ambiguous.

Either way, for what it is, I'm really happy to be able to hold up and test what I was taught with other riders!
 
What do you mean about holding the handlebars at a slight angle?
 
CMSP = California Motorcyclist Safety Program. Prior to 2014 the Motorcycle Safety Foundation held the contract and provided the curriculum. From 2014 onward Total Control holds the contract.
Ohh, got it now. CMSP is the name of the program in California. MSF used to hold the contract, but now TC does.
 
What do you mean about holding the handlebars at a slight angle?
So, I noted that the handlebar grips appear at an angle when I mount the motorcycle.

One instructor advised me to hold them as they appear with my hands and fingers matching that same angle. On my right hand, I would often roll on the throttle while trying to brake, but I chalked this up to inexperience.

Another recommended I hold it more like an ice cream cone, slightly angling my grip at a diagonal to the handlebar. I haven't tried this yet. Allegedly it allows you to push on the handgrip more easily using the outer parts of your hand rather than from the wrist, as well as grab your clutch/brake.
 
Thanks for the explanation. Background: I've been a CMSP instructor for 35yrs.

As a new rider I would advise you to hold the throttle with your palm in complete contact with the grip, and all four fingers wrapped around it. The ice-cream grip suggested to you is treating a symptom (throttle when braking) and not the disease (high wrist).

Rolling on the throttle when braking is almost always due to the rider having a high wrist position. While seated on the motorcycle and griping the handlebar, your right wrist should be slightly below your knuckles. This will drastically reduce / eliminate rolling on the throttle when squeezing the front brake. Some new riders correctly start with this wrist position, then may transition to a high wrist because rather than just rolling off the throttle to use the brake, they slightly but completely let go of the handlebar (raising their wrist) to reach for the front brake lever. Don't let go of the bar / throttle, just roll it closed and extend your fingers to the brake lever.

All that being said, the location and angle of the handlebars and levers is different on every motorcycle, and most can be adjusted a slight amount.
 
Interesting there is no specific speed number, thank you for letting me know that distinction!

But that doesn't mean you shouldn't take those numbers you were given to heart.

Honestly, when traffic is doing 70 and you're doing 80, there is no reasonable need to lane split. That's not what its about. It's not a carte blanche license to be rude. Always remember the corollary to lane split laws -- the law of Raw Tonnage. (The law of Raw Tonnage dictates many things in a motorcyclists life.)

My guideline is that if I find myself in 3rd gear, then traffic is moving fast enough and I just merge back in. Its easy to get caught up in the moment while splitting and the traffic is slowly gaining speed. Eventually, it's just Fast Enough and the vast majority of the reasons for splitting have really gone by the wayside.

The more I reflect and share my experience with my training, the more I run into "Well, more practically in real-life scenarios..." or "That's partially true, but..."

You'll find this applies to pretty much every aspect of life.

Take "Best Practices". "Oh, it's Best Practice to do XYZ."

Thats all well and good, Best Practices can be a good thing.

What's not a good thing, is applying them blindly. Applying them without knowing why they are Best Practices. Early on, sure, things like that should be taking as guidelines and followed by rote. But it's important to understand them, because Best Practice isn't Always Practice, because it can pretty much never apply to all situations.

The folks in the training course are trying to distill years of experience, taught and learned organically, and applied in the real world, into a few nuggets of wisdom that are easy ingest and retain. But make sure you come back to those and understand their foundations.

As you already know, the single biggest aspect of learning to ride a motorcycle is, simply, to ride a motorcycle. Miles in the seat behind the bars.

Consider the wind. On some bikes, it can be pretty scary. The bikes are small, the dynamics of their chassis react more to the wind than not. In the old days of handler bar mounted windscreens, the wind could catch those and, literally, "grab your handlebars". Whee! This is not as much of an issue as most modern screens are fairing mounted. But they still exist.

On my old Hawk GT, it was like that feather in Forrest Gump. The wind would have it way with it, and I just had to ride along and try to give suggestions as to where the bike would go.

On my K1200 RS, which is a heavier, but also, longer bike, the wind did not have its way with it. That thing was solid as a rock.

But you can't know that until you get out into those conditions. Simply know that the wind, while uncomfortable, is very likely no dangerous. Just disconcerting. And feel free to apply "It may not be dangerous, but I don't like riding in it anyway". Simply, though, there's no need to panic. Just gotta cope with it. With wind, with rain, with fog, with your face shield fogging up. You can't practice that stuff, just be confident in your fundamentals will get your through it.

And slow down.

Which brings up my favorite piece of wisdom, that I actually learned in an instance of Traffic School.

Simply, if you're holding the controls too tightly, you're going too fast. Car, bike, anything. If you have a death grip on the wheel or handlebars, your mind and body are telling you to just slow down. And it works. It's a great heuristic. Just because someone else is more comfortable, doesn't mean you are. And when you're uncomfortable, particularly cognitively (which is what this is), you do not react as well as if you were under less stress.

So, slow down, and get through it. Worst case, just stop.
 
Always remember the corollary to lane split laws -- the law of Raw Tonnage. (The law of Raw Tonnage dictates many things in a motorcyclists life.)
Ooh, this is my first time hearing this term actually! I've heard "lug nut rule" colloquially, but I think it's basically saying the same thing: any vessel (vehicle) heavier than yours always has right-of-way. That's what the law is saying, right?

Eventually, it's just Fast Enough and the vast majority of the reasons for splitting have really gone by the wayside.
This scares me a little! An inexperienced rider (I) might not have a good sense of speed when they're that fast.

With wind, with rain, with fog, with your face shield fogging up. You can't practice that stuff, just be confident in your fundamentals will get you through it.
Thank you for this, it's... reassuring to hear.

I think I'm adding confidence to my "pre-ride gear checklist".
 
but I think it's basically saying the same thing: any vessel (vehicle) heavier than yours always has right-of-way.

Yea, you know when you see that guy in the Honda Fit cutting off the 18 wheeler carrying bridge parts on the freeway, and your windows are rattling from the air horn from the trucker? That guy in the Fit needs to reconsider some of his life choices.

An inexperienced rider (I) might not have a good sense of speed when they're that fast.

The trap is that you're riding along, particularly with lane splitting, you strive to maintain a speed difference. 5-10ish miles per hour.

Well, as traffic speeds up, you're focused on the splitting and the speed delta, and still working that 10mph.

Next thing you know, traffic cleared up, but it's still busy, but its going 50 mph, you're splitting at 60.

And, simply, curmudgeonly, in a "get off my lawn" voice, ya know what? 50 mph is "fast enough". Merge back in line and play along.

The primary reasons (for me) for lane splitting is to get out of the stop and go of traffic. Stop and go on a bike is kinda sucky, because stopping it sucky (have to put your feet down, "yes, there's the friction zone" to start again, "Oh, lets feather the clutch and move another 5 feet", etc.). That's just really low on the fun scale.

Meanwhile, I can lane split, be going 20-30 mph along with traffic, that's surging and stopping and surging and stopping, while I flit along like a little bumble bee down the middle. Despite being in the jaws of a potentially several ton press, cognitively, splitting can be easier. It's a flow. Get the rhythm, keep you eye on your partner (i.e. that guy in the Camry on his cell phone suddenly noticing there's a 12 foot gap for his 10 foot car in the other lane), and just dance.

But once traffic reaches a certain overall speed, much of the surging and such smoothes out. Now there's gaps between cars. Now you can slow down, and coast, and just kind of roll a bit without ever having to put your feet down, its more a slower speed dance with the clutch and gears. So, (for me) the real need for splitting goes way down.

So for me, my heuristic is if I'm in 3rd gear, much less finding 4th? Traffic is fast enough, that's my cue to get back in line. But its not that hard to fall into that organically, just "maintaining your delta", and now you're in 4th approaching 50-60mph in a 3 foot gap between a Silverado and a minivan.
 
While I agree with Berth I think Lane Splitting is not for newbies. Once with decent control on braking and steering can be had then it is time to learn. Filtering is a good start before that. When vehicles are basically stopped it comes down to judging your width between the vehicles.

Since Mr. Risky Bug does not drive and is new to the game there will be a lot of attention needed on the other vehicles that may be consumed by needing to focus on braking and speed. I never look down at my speedo to judge my delta. I don't look down to check my speed either.

If it is still somewhat heavy traffic I am happy to still split as usually cars are less likely to lane jump, but they can. They also seem happier to let you by easily and the flow between lanes is closer in speed.

Cover the front brake to minimize time to brake and read the room meaning what are those dangerous vehicles are doing is the focus.

Avoid spliting and even filtering next to big rigs and such. Even a tip over at 2mph can be deadly.
 
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