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Yoshimura R77 full system install - 2008 GSX-R1000

Hey guys and gals - This might sound like a stupid question, but here I go. Would you think an Arrow slip on that was on a Honda CBR600RR will fit on a 2007 675 Triumph? Probably not huh?

:wtf Hell to the no! Furthermore, why? You'd spend more on mapping than getting the correct slipon.
 
Well that's why I had to ask. I'm not a mechanically inclined yet, but I do love riding. Thanks though.
 
Well that's why I had to ask. I'm not a mechanically inclined yet, but I do love riding. Thanks though.

Find one specifically for your bike, and the correct generation, if there are differences (you'll see the slipons listed by different years if that's the case). Most of the time, adding a slipon won't require different mapping, although custom mapping is a benefit at all times over stock, and is definitely required with a full system. Good luck :thumbup
 
Yeah I was just wondering because if it did, then I had an opportunity on getting a $50 Arrow slip on, but yeah might as well get one made specially for my bike and spend $400... DANG IT! Thanks again though.
 
Yeah I was just wondering because if it did, then I had an opportunity on getting a $50 Arrow slip on, but yeah might as well get one made specially for my bike and spend $400... DANG IT! Thanks again though.

Check out fleaBay, cause $400 for a slipon is not the best price point, it's not ridiculous, but it's not the best, could do $200. Your other option is $50 for Arrow slipon, $200ish for custom fab to make it fit, $300 for power commander, $300ish for custom mapping. You get the idea :laughing
 
:wtf Hell to the no! Furthermore, why? You'd spend more on mapping than getting the correct slipon.

I don't see why a slip-on on a Honda can't be used on a Triumph? I don't think it would make a difference if either was used.

Mapping is out of the question. If you ask why, read above!

Check out fleaBay, cause $400 for a slipon is not the best price point, it's not ridiculous, but it's not the best, could do $200. Your other option is $50 for Arrow slipon, $200ish for custom fab to make it fit, $300 for power commander, $300ish for custom mapping. You get the idea :laughing

Giving the fact that the triumph and cbr 6 are both understail exit exhaust I highly doubt it would cost $200 for fabrication (unless you were working with Titanium and had to purchase in bulk etc..). Regardless of what exhaust he goes with he'll need a FI tuner and a custom map so pricing for that shouldn't be an issue.

Sorry I just had to point those out! :teeth
 
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Hooli is right, trace those cables and you'll find the servo motor under the seat somewhere, you might have to take the tail piece off the bike. Take the barrels (literally little metal barrels at the end of the cable, like on the clutch cable or on a bicycle brake system) out of the servo and it'll just move back and forth on its own without doing any harm and throwing any codes.

BTW, on bikes that come with stock Ti headers, I never understood why people would "downgrade" to SS? I'd either just buy the cans, or in your case, midpipe too, so I could have a one can system...or buy a full Ti system (with Ti or CF can). With a full system you're also on the hook for a PC and a custom map(~$650).
Likely because the stock Ti systems are more Ti than anything else, but not all that much Ti and rather thick. 929/954 headers are Ti, but not light.
 
on my o6 1k I took out the servo motor and cables, its under the subframe seat area connected with a thick blue wire, than my red light guess the CODE stayed on, went to the dealer and they said that they had a little cable gauge to mimic the trottle flap for $50.00. I never bought it and just kept ride with the red light on
 
I don't see why a slip-on on a Honda can't be used on a Triumph? I don't think it would make a difference if either was used.

Mapping is out of the question. If you ask why, read above!



Giving the fact that the triumph and cbr 6 are both understail exit exhaust I highly doubt it would cost $200 for fabrication (unless you were working with Titanium and had to purchase in bulk etc..). Regardless of what exhaust he goes with he'll need a FI tuner and a custom map so pricing for that shouldn't be an issue.

Sorry I just had to point those out! :teeth

I'm afraid that just because they're both undertail systems, it doesn't mean the slipons are the same. Even if the cans themselves are of similar outer dimensions (which I highly doubt), I was more concered with midpipe fitment and with can mounting points. You don't think the midpipe is routed in the exact same place and the can is bolted under the tail in the same points do you?!

Just to get those two items off the checklist will be around $200. Ask the guys that had Arrow headers mated to an LV slipon, etc...they'll tell you how much LV charged for the fab work.

As far as tuning. Again, most slipons you could get away with no PC and tuning. It wouldn't be optimal, but it would work. Now with a slipon for a I4 mated onto an unknown midpipe (stock Triumph or the one from the CBR?), onto a triple, I'm pretty sure the bike wouldn't be within spec. You could ride it, but I wouldn't recommend it.
 
HIJACK?

Hey guys and gals - This might sound like a stupid question, but here I go. Would you think an Arrow slip on that was on a Honda CBR600RR will fit on a 2007 675 Triumph? Probably not huh?

know im laggin on posting the rest of my pics and vid but this is def a STUPID question for my thread:twofinger
 
Likely because the stock Ti systems are more Ti than anything else, but not all that much Ti and rather thick. 929/954 headers are Ti, but not light.

I had a 954 with Ti headers and the whole system was really light for a stocker. The heaviest parts were the cats and the non Ti stuff between the cats and the bolt-on. I remember looking at a full SS system which was essentially the same overall weight, and ended up getting a CF bolt-on and custom tuning on the PC instead.

In his pics, the Ti headers look smaller, so I bet they're lighter, but in his case he's got the 2 cans vs. one issue, so he'll be saving weight on that. Plus the Yosh headers look thicker, so although they're probably heavier, they're higher performance.
 
on my o6 1k I took out the servo motor and cables, its under the subframe seat area connected with a thick blue wire, than my red light guess the CODE stayed on, went to the dealer and they said that they had a little cable gauge to mimic the trottle flap for $50.00. I never bought it and just kept ride with the red light on

All you really had to do would be to either snip or pull the appropriate wire from the ECU plug. Then the light would go off.
 
BTW, on bikes that come with stock Ti headers, I never understood why people would "downgrade" to SS? I'd either just buy the cans, or in your case, midpipe too, so I could have a one can system...or buy a full Ti system (with Ti or CF can). With a full system you're also on the hook for a PC and a custom map(~$650).

i understand that Ti is much lighter than the "SS" i now have, but the complete system is 32lbs lighter than the stock set up it came with including MUCH superior flow. i do not consider this a downgrade! i would take improved exhaust flow, HP and fuel efficiency over a 2lbs saving retaining my Ti headers.
full Ti system woulda been sweeeeet but didnt feel i needed to spend the $$$ to save so little in weight.
 
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I'm afraid that just because they're both undertail systems, it doesn't mean the slipons are the same. Even if the cans themselves are of similar outer dimensions (which I highly doubt), I was more concered with midpipe fitment and with can mounting points. You don't think the midpipe is routed in the exact same place and the can is bolted under the tail in the same points do you?!

Just to get those two items off the checklist will be around $200. Ask the guys that had Arrow headers mated to an LV slipon, etc...they'll tell you how much LV charged for the fab work.

As far as tuning. Again, most slipons you could get away with no PC and tuning. It wouldn't be optimal, but it would work. Now with a slipon for a I4 mated onto an unknown midpipe (stock Triumph or the one from the CBR?), onto a triple, I'm pretty sure the bike wouldn't be within spec. You could ride it, but I wouldn't recommend it.

Both slip-on's wont be exact that's for sure but I don't believe that they would be so different that it would be hard to fab a mid pipe for it or cost $200! Of course if you go to LV to have fab work done you're looking at a big bill, but you can go elsewhere like any local muffler shop and have the same work done for less.

I highly doubt you would be able to tell the difference if either pipe was mounted on either bike and I HIGHLY doubt it would make a difference.
 
so i finished the install this evening. all went well and now i just have to throw my fairings on a wait for a dry day. do actually need to send the map to my PC111 so that it runs a best as possible with a generalized map from DynoJet for my bike and exhaust.

just wanted to touch base on a few things that i know will be beneficial to anyone doing this install in the future:

1- Yoshimura directions for install or only good. they are NOT great. they mention about taking things off, but not how or when. this was a bit frustrating because this was my first install on a new bike. didn't want to damage or break anything in the process and had to figure it out on my own.
2- all parts are provided, just keep track of them as you disassemble.
3- have somewhere to drain and store/dispose of your oil and coolant.
4- have some rubbing alcohol to wipe any oil, grease, or dirt off your exhaust so that your system does not discolor when it is first fired up.
5-have some Loctite for your header bolts.
6- have a torque wrench handy for your header bolts(7lbs).
7- make sure to reinstall you oil cooler mount to the radiator before reattaching the oil cooler lines to the motor(see pic below).
8- you will need your o2 sensor from your stock exhaust.

ill get some other pics and video up as soon as i can.
 

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oil and coolant

this is a good time change/upgrade your coolant and oils too.
the Engine Ice i purchased for my refill mentioned it had been proven at reducing engine temps as much as 50 degrees. i was skeptical but it it seems as if it is working well. thought i haven't given it the real test, because i haven't been riding, i did let my bike idle for 5-7 mins. it will usually get up to about 220 but tonight only reached 186. who knows. figured i post about it either way.

also, used two old water jugs to drain, store, and fill my oil and coolant.
made it really easy to catch and then fill the old oil quarts with the old oil.
 

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That's beautiful, but where's your exhaust hanger?

waiting to get some alcohol to give it all a proper cleaning!! would love to get an after market hanger, not gonna be running passenger pegs.
thank you!!
 
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