$800?
I'm wondering what this bike is supposed to be? Or what it was in it's last life. Do you have photos of what it should look like?
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1977 Suzuki GS750e w/ Yoshimura bits
- Thread starter mdelosrey
- Start date
$800?
I'm wondering what this bike is supposed to be? Or what it was in it's last life. Do you have photos of what it should look like?
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corndog67
Pissant Squid
Remember the name, the Night Rider.....
Those are Dunstall fairings. I had one on a Kawasaki triple I bought in the 70s. I thought they were cool at the time, but they were kind of hokey.
Yup got it for $800. The bike I guess is supposed to look like that picture minus all the rust and dust? I'm not really sure as the bike about 6 years older than I.
Remember the name, the Night Rider.....
Hahahaha cool pic.
Yeah, I'm sure during the time they were the cool thing to have. The owner wanted the fairing back when I told him I was gonna throw it away.
Don't knock it.I was raised on that movie
That thing looks nice!
channelcat
New member
nice. a real morsickle. dipstick oil looks good, warm it up and pin it to 700 rpm below redline for 10 seconds, then slam the throttle shut. It don't puke or die, and settles at idle, you got a winner.
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Don't knock it.
The Night Rider, Remember his name when you look at the night sky...
Cereal KLR
New member
Looks like you have polished the valve seats too. Im sure you know they will have to be at the least lapped to match valve face. That material is/should be very hard, surprised you took the polisher to them.
I'm surprised anyone polishes the CC or ports at all. We haven't done that in years. All fluff as far as I'm concerned. But you are right on the money Jim, he will need to lap that correctly, that is if any seat is left.
corndog67
Pissant Squid
I'm surprised anyone polishes the CC or ports at all. We haven't done that in years. All fluff as far as I'm concerned. But you are right on the money Jim, he will need to lap that correctly, that is if any seat is left.
No kidding. When I was running the 5 axis at the Top Fuel shop, they spiraled the tool out, from the inside of the port, maybe 1/8 inch, almost scallops, from as deep in the port as the tool would reach, about a 6 inch long tool reaching in there with a 1/2 ball (like a lolipop), all the way to the outside edge, and profiled them all the way out, and shipped them like that. Not a deep scallop, but enough to feel and see clearly. And these were first done on a flow bench, then digitized, so every one they did, was exactly the same. The machine would flip them over to the chamber side, and the blend would be nearly perfect.
So far I lapped Cyl 1 and its held rubbing alcohol with no leaks. I wasn't trying to polish the face of the seat, cloth just ended up rubbing against it when I was in the area.
I'm surprised anyone polishes the CC or ports at all. We haven't done that in years. All fluff as far as I'm concerned. But you are right on the money Jim, he will need to lap that correctly, that is if any seat is left.
Only real reason I polished the cc was because when I pulled the head off, cc was polished. After cleaning the head I thought to just bring the luster back. Funny you mention that you used to polish the cc many years ago, the motor was built many years ago and I'm guessing the builder (can't remember name, I'll ask previous owner again) was on the same wagon as other engine builders with polishing the cc and what not. If the rest of the cylinders hold the alcohol, I'll go forward with putting engine back together. If any of em leak, I'll bring head to machine shop.
I've seen what you're talking about, texture looks really cool. I used to work for the company that built the Grand Am Rolex Cup V8's and they did the same thing.
From factory the S54 engine (M3) and the S85 (M5) engine had the same texture in the ports too. I remember seeing the section where the port splits into two was sharp as a razor. Really cool process and finish.
Anyway, I want to warn everyone. There will be plenty of "fluff" and "WTH are you doing!" in this thread but to me, as long as it don't hurt. Why not. I'm kind of just feeling my way around the bike and trying to just make something out of it. I don't want to just plop 10k-15k on a new bike and call it good. Ive done that previously, 3 times. Wasn't as rewarding. I like to tinker, try stuff, break stuff, fix stuff until it breaks, and just mess around. By no means am I a top fuel engine builder, drag bike builder, or a moto racer. I'm just trying to build stuff while learning. So excuse me if I offend anyone with my work, I appreciate all the constructive stuff, shooting the shXt stuff, and advice.
So cylinder temps and floating valves can't be tested with your alcohol test. I'm not bashing you for trying, I'm just saying some of the methods you are using so far are a little unorthodox, that's all. But wtf do I know.
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I'm basically "resealing" the engine. New gaskets and general clean up. It ran decent but carbs needed a rebuild and I figured I'd just kinda go over the motor too. I'm not saying I'm building a super motor, obviously I can take it to a builder and have em do your cylinder temp test and valve float test, but its a 78 gs commuter. Not a salt flat racer. I understand you're not bashing but please recognize that this isn't a rocket ship or going to space. I don't see the harm in taking apart a running motor to replace gaskets, cleaning stuff, or "polishing."
Anyway, once its all done. I'm sure I will have broken several things and fixed several things. I am also sure it'll be just fine.
MrIncredible
Is fintastic
If it ain't broke....
RightCoastBias
F8TRED
Polish it.
OK, let me offer you some "friendly" unsolicited advice. I'm also putting this out there for anyone with less Motor experience to read before getting their mitts greasy.
If the motor "required" a rebuild, then obviously you would replace gaskets and such. But sometimes ripping apart a core motor plant and trying to do as you said above isn't best practice. Even if it's just a street beater.
Before that, doing a good inspection and leak down test would have shown if it was even needed. But again, sometimes just freshening the motor can cause more harm than good. The bulk amount of issues in older beater bikes is carb cleanliness/settings and valve lash. Clutch, brakes and cables would be next. Last charging system and ignition. All the basics. As long as fluids are maintained, the core motor should be ok unless your leak down test showed differently.
Now as you know these I4's are fairly rudimentary, but they are also fairly reliable from a mechanical point if built properly. Sometimes building properly requires mods not used by the factory, which is typically oiling mods. But other than that, stuff stays fairly tight. For me, the last thing I would do is start a head carving experiment.
Again, I am hoping you find this as friendly non judgmental advice. Seems like you have a handle on it and Motors don't intimidate you which is great. It also looks like a fun little project bike, and I'm sure you're enjoying this process. An older dummy like me just treads differently from being burned to many times with experimental mistakes, and we try to offer best practices before folks do stuff like this. There is a LOT of smart guys on this board with tons of "experience", so don't be afraid to ask before you do if there is any doubt.
Happy Motoring!
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