This just gets better. Below is a long post from Kahn's FB. I will put up the photos in a different post as there are a lot of them today.
Lowari Top and Kalaash!!
Updated 6 hours ago
The road out of Chukyatan-Dir was muddy from the pouring rain the night before. I have been waiting to take today's roads for a year now. The level of excitement I had can't be put into words. Last year, I had traveled through these roads on a 1962 Vespa Scooter, and wasn't permitted to go over the Lowari Top, and instead had to take the boring tunnel, lets see if you can spot the tunnel in the pictures. This year, we were on better bikes, and were all hyped about the Pass. The road leading to Lowari Top is epic in itself, and just when you think it doesn't get any better, the climb to the top begins. My words can't paint the perfect picture and will never do the scenery any justice, it's definitely something that cannot be described. You just have to live this experience yourself. Lowari pass is a mixture of Grimpsel-Furka-Susten-Stelvio and Gavia pass. Remove the asphalt from these passes and you get Lowari Top (Pass). I've ridden through them all, and anyone who rides through Lowari Pass will definitely agree with me. The wind howled on top of the pass, reminding me of a week spent in Chicago once upon a December. Standing up straight was nearly impossible, the wind threatened to blow you away. A few pictures were snapped and as we made our descent, a million twist and turns came into view. It was Stelvio Pass...all over again. Hairpin turn, after hairpin turn. By the time we were halfway into the descent, I had decided that this was the most amazing pass I had ever ridden in my entire life. Lowari Top for life!!! We finally reached plain land just in time for lunch. As if the day wasn't already perfect enough, we found out that a hotel right off the Pass was serving some amazing Massh k daal! YUMMMM.
After filling our stomachs, we got back on our Piaggios and started riding towards our next destination and that's when Michael said he was low on benzine and that his bike would die any second. We stopped at a few gas stations and they were all out, when finally we met a very interesting character. After a brief chit chat with him, after his curiosity about these news Piaggio Bikes and weird white men subsided he offered us some benzine. We followed him to his house, he took out his pimped out Chinese 125 bike, pulled out a pipe and took about half a gallon out of his bike and poured in M's bike. Then showed off his pimped out bike, Mp3 player with a few speakers around, different color theme lights lit up, 3-4 different kinds of horns, and then the coolest thing, while standing a few feet away he pressed a button on his key chain and the bike turned on.. "ohh i want that too" our reaction. We tried to pay him but he just wouldnt let us and kept saying "You guys are guests in my village, how could i charge you guys." I forced some money down his pocket and we left as it was drizzling and the sun was almost gone. Thats when out of nowhere, the police showed up besides us; they wanted to escort us to next destination. We found out soon enough why they had decided upon this..the road to Kalaash valley Bumburat was by far the bumpiest hard-to-ride road in the world. The roads were so bad. SOOOOO bad that you start muttering under your breath promising yourself that you would never return to this road ever again. Then, Kaalash appears and you take back your promises. The men were bearded with the biggest smiles upon their faces turned towards us. The women were in traditional clothes, reminding me that Pakistan holds so many different cultures. The kids shied away, peering curiously behind homes at our modes of transportation. We ended our evening dining next to a river. Unfortunately, Kyle and Michael fell sick with stomach pains in Kalaash. A doctor was called upon, and came to our hotel within 10 minutes. They were both diagnosed with food poisoning and dehydration. The doctor advised Kyle to get an infusion for his severe dehydration and both were prescribed some meds. The Doc left and nurses were soon over with infusions and other meds. I have no idea how this happened to them since we were all eating the same foods and drank the same water and my stomach was never famous for being strong. All I could do that second night in Kalaash was to pray that the medicine would work fast and their health and spirit would return soon. Their recovery is crucial for us to continue the journey the next morning with the same fervor we had on the first day.