Is the steel suit on clearance?
-
ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
- It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again
1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
- animals, though free re-homing is ok.
- anything illegal.
- drugs, legal or not.
2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:
- Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY.
- motorcycle or other vehicle:
- make [MANDATORY]
- model [MANDATORY]
- year [MANDATORY]
- Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
- mileage
- title info
- current condition
- maintenance history
- accident history
- location
- If selling riding gear, include:
- size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
- in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.
- motorcycle or other vehicle:
- Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
- DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
- Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
- Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" (
) option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
- With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.
3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!
- Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
- Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
- Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
- Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
- Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958
4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad
- Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
- If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
- If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
- If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.
5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF
- Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.
BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
- If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
- We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (15 days and 15 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.
6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
- No reposting
- No reposting
- No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.
7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
- Is not allowed.
8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
- Is no longer allowed.
If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.
-
ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
- It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again
1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
- animals, though free re-homing is ok.
- anything illegal.
- drugs, legal or not.
2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:
- Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY.
- motorcycle or other vehicle:
- make [MANDATORY]
- model [MANDATORY]
- year [MANDATORY]
- Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
- mileage
- title info
- current condition
- maintenance history
- accident history
- location
- If selling riding gear, include:
- size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
- in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.
- motorcycle or other vehicle:
- Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
- DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
- Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
- Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" () option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
- With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.
3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!
- Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
- Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
- Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
- Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
- Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958
4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad
- Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
- If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
- If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
- If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.
5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF
- Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.
BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
- If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
- We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (30 days and 30 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.
6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
- No reposting
- No reposting
- No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.
7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
- Is not allowed.
8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
- Is no longer allowed.
If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.
-
There has been a recent cluster of spammers accessing BARFer accounts and posting spam. To safeguard your account, please consider changing your password. It would be even better to take the additional step of enabling 2 Factor Authentication (2FA) on your BARF account. Read more here.
Ask Dainese Dan
- Thread starter DaineseDan
- Start date
Is the steel suit on clearance?
Roadstergal
Sergeant Jackrum
Any word on a women's version of the Axial/Torque?
Or a men's version that goes down to 36?
Or a men's version that goes down to 36?
DaineseDan
New member
Not to my knowledge. Diesel is now re-branding one of our AGV helmets, however, but I think that is the closest thing to what you are referring. Not that Diesel is in the same league of designers you mentioned.
I don't think Lino Dainese would ever allow creative control out of his hands and allow an outside designer work with our product.
DaineseDan
New member
DaineseDan
New member
Any word on a women's version of the Axial/Torque?
Or a men's version that goes down to 36?
We will have more information next week on the upcoming line, but I have been assured that a women's version is on the way.
license2ill
New member
That's a crock. Dainese stuff always finds the bottom of the pack when tested by Ride Mag when met with the CE testing protocols, showing numbers in many areas that don't get close to passing limits or meeting criteria of the basic standard. The company has tried to lobby continually to lower the requirements, offering-up a "Level 0" category as a way to skirt the current expectations. The line about cost is another red herring, with the cost of one full suit design running about $2000 for approval, or roughly about the cost of a single suit. Here's a link to more info on that: http://www.docstoc.com/docs/819810/Paul-Varnsverry-PVA-Technical-File-Services-Limited-presentation
DaineseDan
New member
I would like to see proof of your statements or will not even begin to be dragged into an argument with you over this. All of our armor meets a minimum of CE1, and I would be more than happy to show you test results of the materials we use.
Dove
productively obsessed
Dear Dan,
May I borrow a white suit for the upcoming AFM weekend? I promise I'll give it back on Monday.
Thank you,
Chris Dove
May I borrow a white suit for the upcoming AFM weekend? I promise I'll give it back on Monday.
Thank you,
Chris Dove
DaineseDan
New member
Dear Dan,
May I borrow a white suit for the upcoming AFM weekend? I promise I'll give it back on Monday.
Thank you,
Chris Dove
Sure! Want to borrow a bike and rider too?
Dove
productively obsessed
Sure! Want to borrow a bike and rider too?
You're full of brilliant ideas, thanks Dan!
So the website is pretty hard to navigate.
Question about boots.
I was intrigued about the Axial boots, however a acquaintance had a problem with the sole wearing through near the toe area. When this was brought to the attention of Dianese, he was told "too bad, so sad, you abused them and it's not warrantied". The boots were used for about 6 months, and I'm sure they were not used to practice drills or run a marathon.
I'm not inclined to leave the brand I'm using now if Dainese makes a less durable product, and then also wiggles out of the warranty. I hope that this was a anomaly and not the norm.
Looking forward to trying D boots
Question about boots.
I was intrigued about the Axial boots, however a acquaintance had a problem with the sole wearing through near the toe area. When this was brought to the attention of Dianese, he was told "too bad, so sad, you abused them and it's not warrantied". The boots were used for about 6 months, and I'm sure they were not used to practice drills or run a marathon.
I'm not inclined to leave the brand I'm using now if Dainese makes a less durable product, and then also wiggles out of the warranty. I hope that this was a anomaly and not the norm.
Looking forward to trying D boots
DaineseDan
New member
Without seeing the boots and knowing the full story, I certainly can't make a thorough judgment, but judging by what you've told me, that is a complete anomaly. I won't ask you to name names, but I would be very curious to hear where the boots were bought, and who he was dealing with on the warranty issue. Dainese has a minimum one year warranty on all of it's products, and is very generous with that warranty. If you would like, PM me the details. I don't know that I can do anything, but I would love the opportunity to try.
bafflebrain
New member
Hi Dan, any news on the Horizon Tex pants?
DaineseDan
New member
Nothing yet. Sorry.
There were not included in the pre-production list, but that means nothing this early in the game. I still expect them to be part of the new collection.
Venomized
New member
Any SUPER deals Euro 60/ US 50 leather jackets?
DaineseDan
New member
Nothing at the moment. Check back with me in August during our next clearance sale.
racin_fever
two-smoked
dainese new axial race boots problem
This is kind of a long post, so I am not sure who will read it but I think this info is important for folks to know my latest experience with Dainese.
I am the one who had the issue with the latest Dainese New Axial boot. You know the one like Rossi wears, only black. Everything went down like Sonny mentioned, but I will give some specifics.
I bought the boots ~6 months ago....iirc. Up to the time that I took the boots back to the dainese store to bring the boots to their attention, I used the boots for two race weekends and about 5 trackdays. For the sake of argument, I am calling this about 10 trackdays worth of use. I did not use the boots any different than I have used boots in the past other then I just used them at the track and not on the street....otherwise, pushing my RS125 to the hot pit while it warmed up and some walking around in the pits(not excessive). I may or may not walk different than other folks but have not had issues with other boots I used in previous seasons(oxtar & puma).
So, as I mentioned....I brought the boots back to the D-Store here in SF(where I bought them). The specific issue with the boots revolves around the sole wearing out at the toe. In this case the right toe around the area of the big toe at the interface between the sole and the leather wore fairly rapidly. Rapidly to the point to where it started wearing into the leather and started exposing the underlying internals. The sole is only about 1/4 thick and does not wrap around the toe at all. It is important to note that the boots do not have anything protecting this part of the toe from wear either.....on the side of the little toes, we have the metal slider......but on the side of the big toe, there is only leather.....where alot of boots these days have rubber that comes up from teh rubber sole of the boot to protect from this exact type of issue, I imagine.
I was a bit taken back with the response that I got when I asked that the boots be replaced. They were not very receptive to my point of view that the boots should not have worn out in the very short time that I owned them. The manager said that they would_not/could_not do that and took two pics and said they would have someone else at dainese evaluate the photos, but let me know not to expect much. That was over three weeks ago and I have yet to hear back from them. I felt let down, and a little bit angry as well since I feel that I am being taken advantage of. These boots are not cheap and I will admit, a bit overpriced...upwards toward $500 out the door. Yeah, I went overboard buying the boots......I have justified paying the prices dainese asks because they claim to be top notch. BTW, in the relatively short period of three years that I have been riding, I have spent > $4k worth of dainese...probably closer to $5k and still have most of the gear. I only say this to suggest that I have been a loyal dainese customer.
This situation is causing me to seriously reevaluate buying dainese in the future....a crossroads, if you will. The bottom line is that I don't feel that this should happen to a pair of $500 pair of boots in half of a season and if it does, I expect they make it right. I have thought of dainese to be a brand of Italian quality & style which justified carrying a high price point. I am still hanging on to the hope that dainese will make this right.
This is kind of a long post, so I am not sure who will read it but I think this info is important for folks to know my latest experience with Dainese.
I am the one who had the issue with the latest Dainese New Axial boot. You know the one like Rossi wears, only black. Everything went down like Sonny mentioned, but I will give some specifics.
I bought the boots ~6 months ago....iirc. Up to the time that I took the boots back to the dainese store to bring the boots to their attention, I used the boots for two race weekends and about 5 trackdays. For the sake of argument, I am calling this about 10 trackdays worth of use. I did not use the boots any different than I have used boots in the past other then I just used them at the track and not on the street....otherwise, pushing my RS125 to the hot pit while it warmed up and some walking around in the pits(not excessive). I may or may not walk different than other folks but have not had issues with other boots I used in previous seasons(oxtar & puma).
So, as I mentioned....I brought the boots back to the D-Store here in SF(where I bought them). The specific issue with the boots revolves around the sole wearing out at the toe. In this case the right toe around the area of the big toe at the interface between the sole and the leather wore fairly rapidly. Rapidly to the point to where it started wearing into the leather and started exposing the underlying internals. The sole is only about 1/4 thick and does not wrap around the toe at all. It is important to note that the boots do not have anything protecting this part of the toe from wear either.....on the side of the little toes, we have the metal slider......but on the side of the big toe, there is only leather.....where alot of boots these days have rubber that comes up from teh rubber sole of the boot to protect from this exact type of issue, I imagine.
I was a bit taken back with the response that I got when I asked that the boots be replaced. They were not very receptive to my point of view that the boots should not have worn out in the very short time that I owned them. The manager said that they would_not/could_not do that and took two pics and said they would have someone else at dainese evaluate the photos, but let me know not to expect much. That was over three weeks ago and I have yet to hear back from them. I felt let down, and a little bit angry as well since I feel that I am being taken advantage of. These boots are not cheap and I will admit, a bit overpriced...upwards toward $500 out the door. Yeah, I went overboard buying the boots......I have justified paying the prices dainese asks because they claim to be top notch. BTW, in the relatively short period of three years that I have been riding, I have spent > $4k worth of dainese...probably closer to $5k and still have most of the gear. I only say this to suggest that I have been a loyal dainese customer.
This situation is causing me to seriously reevaluate buying dainese in the future....a crossroads, if you will. The bottom line is that I don't feel that this should happen to a pair of $500 pair of boots in half of a season and if it does, I expect they make it right. I have thought of dainese to be a brand of Italian quality & style which justified carrying a high price point. I am still hanging on to the hope that dainese will make this right.
Last edited:
Venomized
New member
Are The SANTA MONICAS on sale? Thanks