Baja - ride report to Cabo...and back!

[CockyRooster]

The plan from here is with great hope to make it to El Rosario while it is still daylight, but I have no sense of what pace will be possible. I make mental notes and mile markers of the towns with hotels for use in case daylight drops.

I fill up on gas just outside of Ensenada, roll out, and am amazed at the scenery. Vineyards? Check out those vineyards!

Not what I was expecting to find in Baja. (Pic was lifted from the web, but looks exactly as I remember it)

 

[CockyRooster]

San Vicente is about 1/3 of the way to El Rosario (come on - we can do better than that!) and good for an emergency stop over.

San Quintin (kee-tawn) is 118mi from Ensenada, and about 2/3 of the way to El Rosario from Ensenada.

The roads were clear and I blew through San Vicente in just over an hours time. Sweet! Anxious to make haste against the unknown I did not fill up on fuel knowing that San Quintin is a bigger town and will most likely have gas.

I roll into San Quintin less then 2 1/2 hours from Ensenada.

San Quintin is a pretty typical Baja town that you roll through. Stores and other buildings flank the 2 lane road and rest about 20ft. back with dirt for parking lots and sand blown up into berms against the weathered pastel walls. Lots of topos to keep the speeds down, but I soon discovered with super suspension and a lack of stringent traffic laws you can file your way through town pretty quickly.
It seems rude at first, but if you don't go around traffic the locals consider you in the way as they honk and pass you by in their bigger rigs. Common sense seems to govern the roads more than laws.

 

[pecha]

 

[HiggyB]

Not to derail or go off-topic: I've heard that Tecate is a "better" entry point into Mexico than Tijuana, and you can still easily get from there down to Ensenada. Your thoughts on that (or from others if it's not too far off-topic) would be appreciated... Can't wait for more!

 

[slydrite]

^ absolutely!

better entry and exit, by far

 

[Racinfrk]

Not to derail or go off-topic: I've heard that Tecate is a "better" entry point into Mexico than Tijuana, and you can still easily get from there down to Ensenada. Your thoughts on that (or from others if it's not too far off-topic) would be appreciated... Can't wait for more!

Much, Much better to enter through Tecate. Here is a pic the last gas stop (and getting Mexican Insurance) before entering at Tecate:

 

[Racinfrk]

The plan from here is with great hope to make it to El Rosario while it is still daylight, but I have no sense of what pace will be possible. I make mental notes and mile markers of the towns with hotels for use in case daylight drops.

I fill up on gas just outside of Ensenada, roll out, and am amazed at the scenery. Vineyards? Check out those vineyards!

Not what I was expecting to find in Baja.

Hmmmm...is that a pic of the wine fields just south of Tecate?

 

[bicyclekid]

Not to derail or go off-topic: I've heard that Tecate is a "better" entry point into Mexico than Tijuana, and you can still easily get from there down to Ensenada. Your thoughts on that (or from others if it's not too far off-topic) would be appreciated... Can't wait for more!

when im on a time crunch or passing the border on a weekday i way perfer to go through tj ... really aint that bad

tecate is nice too lil slower and way farther to get too i only use this one if im trucking down and leaaving the rig at a trusted parking place (ranch sv for those who know ..then the rest want to know )... guess this is the one if your worried or are going for the first time ....


tips for tj crossing .. split non stop all the way to the front if this bothers you dont go to mex .... when you get across the main check point stay right you will be making a right turn go up a really steep hill for about half a mile .. at the top is a couple of on and off ramps stay right and follow the signs to enenasda its a toll road pay it they take mex pesoa and us dollars think its like 2 .50 or so ...now your on fedaeral land and the local cops have no say .. haul ass enjoy the sights cause your on a fenced road no cows donkeys dogs .. ratty cars trucks etc.... arty butu hey what do i kow i dont have a ride report showing how much stuff i dont know ... got to get better pr ...

 

[bicyclekid]

heres another tips i never get mex insurance ... for baja its not like its going to help you at alll .... bring cash or leave you trouble finding freinds across the border .... i also always try to pay for my tourist card with a cc card most of the time they are not set up for it and will stamp it which means you pay when you leave .... which i never do ....
hey its real cowboy shytearty

 

[nuclearalex]

You should already have your insurance at this point.

Great story! PLease keep it coming...

as a side note - could you describe mexican insurance in a few sentences: what is it for (bike I assume)? liability or full coverage? is it mandatory? And where would you recommend to buy it?

Thanks!

 

[CockyRooster]

Great story! PLease keep it coming...

as a side note - could you describe mexican insurance in a few sentences: what is it for (bike I assume)? liability or full coverage? is it mandatory? And where would you recommend to buy it?

Thanks!

It's no different than domestic insurance but with slightly different priorities. Here you need to insure yourself against being sued, but down there my biggest concern was for theft. I insured my bike and equipment for 2X what it is worth so that I wouldn't be tempted to try to save it from a "bike-jacking." A little John Wayne attitude is a good thing, but a lot of Chuck Norris is not.

The Tecate and Mexicali border crossings are both safer, and more friendly if you've got the time. But where is the adventure in that???

I got my insurance through Bajabound.com. This is only one company so check around and check with your current insurer as I know AAA offers Mex. Ins. for auto. Liability seems almost irrelevant as your most likely to hit a mule than another vehicle, but remember the roads are full of a lot of Americans who are familiar with their rights. Anything less than full coverage seems to be a waste as theft is the bigger problem.
Insurance may seem like a waste of time and money, but hang around here and you will find evidence for it's necessity.

 

[CockyRooster]

SO I've rolled through San Quintin at roughly 3pm, and cruising. The landscape was surprisingly familiar looking more like the Monterey Peninsula than the desert scape that I anticipated. I was hoping to see a road runner with a coyote strapped to a jet-pack and roller skates in pursuit, but I have to settle for rolling hills, tall green trees, and beach grass blowing in the subtle onshore winds from the Pacific.

As I'm cruising down the highway I see some fishermen on the beach by way of a rough trail leading from the road. A little quick math [San Quintin to El Rosario=35mi;45-55mph pace; we've got time to stop]. A quick burn down the trail to the beach for the first time I truly I appreciate being on a motorcycle. It makes so much of this Southern country accessible in a way that is not possible in a car and difficult in a truck.

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I stretch out the limbs and flex the muscles to initiate some blood flow to the saddle area before settling on the rocks and started taking it all in. The time for preparation is over, the logistics are set, and there is nothing left to do but just do it.

I enjoy an orange as I sit on the Baja shoreline and eat possibly the last piece of fresh fruit available for months. I relax and watch the fisherman cast their lines about the shoreline wondering what I did to be so lucky to be here. The people who have loved and supported me as they do and have in my life ~ this is what makes dreams possible. The first 35 years of my life were quite interesting, and this is a fantastic way to start the next 35.

I would like to thank all the people who have made this trip possible. My years in the AFM paddock gave me a family of brothers and sisters who are truly special to me. The camaraderie and support received was appreciated and valued in a way that changed my life. The consistency of the friendships born at every race each month kept me inspired to get out of bed and strive another day during the tougher times in my life.

My fellow BARFers who keep me in stitches, and give me a place to be as immature as I want to be in (almost) total anonymity. Some time ago I posted a thread asking what the heck the difference between the XR and XRL were, and that advice was of tremendous value and fundamental to my choice for this trip.

And of course the people in my life for their support and dedication to my safety, happiness, and well being. Thank you for all of your research and investigations into arming me with the knowledge for my journey that resulted in eliminating many troubles and provided opportunities for much joy. Your immovable belief in me moves me always.

...and a little shout to all the little ones who tirelessly helped with the more mundane details like paying the bills before I leave.

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I dedicate this trip to my father who I lost the morning of his 60th birthday 12/04/2002. You never realize how much someone's influence forms your life, through encouragement or the rebellion of such, until your leaning against the void of their ghost. Godspeed always.



So as I've said before - there's nothing left to do but just do it. This little adventure will last almost 2 months south of the border, so stick around and enjoy - the trip has just begun.


Lets Roll!


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[CockyRooster]

Back on the road...

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This section of road is right before said lushy mountains. Notice the single track moto trail just off the side of the road.

Time to roll into El Rosario for the night. As I head into the mountains after miles of riding the open flat range I cross a bridge and turn into a corner when I hear brrrrrrrRAAAAAAAAAAPP!!!! WTF??? I coast to a stop to find a set screw had loosened from my muffler and the spark arrestor assembly blew out. A big bore, single cylinder, un-corked motor is one of the most obnoxious sounds on Earth. You can plug your ears, but the sounds will just beat the engine pulses into your head.

With the luck of the toast falling butter side down, I had just crossed a bridge and was turning into the corner so the parts did not conveniently fall out onto the road, but off to the side and possibly down into this ravine. Facing at least 2Kmi. with an open exhaust I go back and search for the tiny needles in the Baja haystack.

It's down here somewhere???

[/IMG]
Cool bridge, but I did actually find the arrestor thingy part itself about 50' further down the road about 10' off to the side in the grass after about an hour of searching. No luck with the retainer clip though.

It's getting dark. Time to move.

[/IMG]

 

[JakesKTM]

You never realize how much someone's influence forms your life, through encouragement or the rebellion of such, until your leaning against the void of their ghost.

Epic quote... +1

Enjoy

 

[ScottRNelson]

man.. i would love to do that someday. have a nice and safe trip

You realize that he made this trip a year ago, right?

 

[CockyRooster]

You realize that he made this trip a year ago, right?

That's an easy detail to miss. I'm re-livin' the trip all over as if it's happening right now, because to me, it is. The toughest part is that I know where all the good parts are, and it is not stuff that you find on your normal moto trip.

 

[CockyRooster]

I roll on down the highway towards the little town of El Rosario and come to the first military outpost. I slow down and stop on the obvious spot and a kid comes out of the guard shack with an M16 (I'm assuming M16-correct me if I'm wrong.) A kid? He looked to be about 14 years old, but as I get older I notice that almost everyone is looking like a kid these days.
He's manning the post by himself, I'm riding by myself, he doesn't speak English, and I don't speak Spanish. He points to my saddle bags and waves his hand motioning for me to open it, so I do so, and he rifles around the inside a bit. The young kid becomes enamored with my jet-boil cook stove and keeps asking questions about it. I did not understand what his fascination with it was, but I would understand at a different military post later in the trip. He kept holding, and playing around with it so finally I just reached out and relieved him of his curiosity and stuck it back into the saddle bag zipping the top closed. We were wasting time so I figured that action would either get things moving along or piss him off which would have happened anyways. So lets get there quickly, no?

Ahhhh.....soon - shower sweet shower! A welcome sight as my head is pounding from the loud exhaust and I anticipate the chain needing adjustment already as I can feel the bike sort of jerky at low speeds. But maybe that's just how these big single cylinder motors are?


Baja hotel or Mediterranean villa?

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This place is pretty famous with the Baja racers as it is the nicest hotel for 500mi. My room is up the stairs on the right, and the "mosquito" (affectionately named by the gf) rest in the little nook under the tree.

[/IMG]

I unload the bags and rear Givi case and bring them in before attending to the maintenance on the bike. I'm hungry and tired, but I must take advantage of what daylight I do have left.
This is the beginning of the process were I'm vigilant about maintaining the bike first thing when I roll into town, and then get a good nights sleep and redo everything correctly the following morning It's nearly a 400mi. ride planned for tomorrow if I want to make it down south in time, and I want to be as fresh and prepared as possible in the morning

Not bad digs, no? But it has to wait.

[/IMG]

I grab the spark arrestor out of the saddle bags now in my room, and go down to the bike to see if I could fasten the bugger back on somehow. First the chain needs to be adjusted...aye yie yie! The chain is laying flat and limp the entire length of the swingarm before lazily wrapping itself around the sprocket and sagging on the bottom side. I did not expect attrition this bad, this quickly, and had figured that it would hold up until I got down to the bottom of the peninsula where I knew of a few motorcycle and atv outfits that would at least have some parts to get me by. Nothing I can do now but adjust it for what I can and be extra gentle on the gas.

I search through my bag of random extra nuts and bolts that I put together for spares, but nothing is really looking suited for the job. Next I go around the little town and find one tiny store open, and search for something to cannibalize for parts to hold the S.A. (spark arrestor) in the muffler. I don't know what I'm looking for, but I will know when I find it. No luck. Zip, nada, zero supplies that could be used for anything mechanical, but I did load up on candy bars for tomorrow's ride. I stole a machine bolt from the battery box (5 bolts left) pounded a hole into the S.A. unit with a rock and screwdriver, and tied everything together. It's funky at best, but I'm desperate for quiet and just want to make it to the next town. (photo is taken the following morning.)

[/IMG]


Now about that chain...


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[CockyRooster]

A few pics of town...

[/IMG]

Hola Amigo!

[/IMG]

Get a look at that Pemex station because it's the last one you'll see for quite awhile. You can see Mama Espinoza's on the right.

[/IMG]

This place is famous for good reasons, and you should know about it.

 

[Motorcycle RN]

Looks like a great trip!

 

[Marineh]

didn't quite realize it was from a year ago. Thanks for making me look stupid nelson , but that still looks like an amazing trip!