Baja - ride report to Cabo...and back!

[CockyRooster]

Like most of the Mexican towns there is the center square for assemblies, and shops/stores built in a U shape around the square with one road leading in and one road leading out.

A school demonstration was going on this particular day

What's a mission town without a church? San Ignacio was one of the oldest on the peninsula.

The Spanish missionaries brought a little piece of home with them.

It looks like they spent all of their money on the front.

This was the main road sign in town. It was a fancy town ~ they had a sign.

You find some gorgeous craftsmanship in the most unlikely places.

I grab a couple of goodies from a small market and head back a mile or so to my yurt

The evening was settling in, and along with the wild life, so did I.

 

[CockyRooster]

I had a most peaceful sleep.

Some would say this was a tree. Others...a diving board.

I had slept so incredibly well. The breakfast was rather family style in a tent along with other adventurers so social hour was very informative. But most importantly the food was amaaaazing! A gourmet cook decides she wants to live in Mexico - my gain.I had planned on only staying just one night, but after refilling my coffee and sitting by the pond watching the ducks get their game on, I decided to check if another night was available. I have never experienced a more peaceful place.

Unfortunately so do many other people as my little yurt is already rented out for the night, and no others are available. It turns out I got what I had by a stroke of luck, so I will count my blessings, say goodbye to my new friends...

...and be back on the road.

 

[RPegasso1]

Awesome adventure…!!

 

[ThumperX]

I want to be there...

 

[HiggyB]

I want to be there...

Me too! I'm busily sorting out details for a Baja ride this fall (7 days up to 2 weeks depending on work schedule ).

 

[RPegasso1]

CockyRooster, please keep it coming… this waiting is driving me nuts…

 

[Yakoo752]

:subscribed

 

[synergy]

i literally just spent 2 hours looking at every single picture and reading every caption along with it

awesome trip, cant wait for more! subscribed!

 

[ThumperX]

I see this trip in my future

 

[CockyRooster]

Thanks for the kudos

I ride out with a long road ahead back to El Rosario; 90mi. to Guerro Negro to fill up, and then 230mi. back to El Rosario. Nothing but isolated desert between these places, and fosters the most sensitive hearing ever - Did I just hear a noise from the engine, did I just hear a noise from the engine, what was that noise from the engine, did I just hear a noise from the engine..?

I go to the one ATM machine that I could find in Guerro Negro and it wasn't serving American cards. The banks were keeping what money was left in the machine for the locals. Nothing is ever a sure thing in Mexico.

I roll into the gas station at Guerro Negro and happen to find myself right behind a friend that I had made in Mulege. We chat it up a bit as we each fill up and as he leaves it occurs to me that I could've loaded the lil' mule and cought a ride through the most exposed part of the desert. I've had enough "alone" and "zen" time to myself and was quite frankly not looking forward to stretching the gas between stations and being so exposed. This was the only part of the trip that gave me any sort of anxiety.

I blast off with all 30hp blasting and tried to catch him at the military check point but the li'l mule overheats at 80+ mph, and he was flying. As I arrived at the check point he was driving off from the front of the line.

It's a long line and the soldiers with inspections and were being super vigilant and the line was long. No catching up to him now so I look forward to the ride while I wait in line. As I wait in the back of the line a 16 year old kid in fatigues holding an automatic rifle does the inspection through my bags. He keeps pointing to my air mattress rolled up and asking

How much?

I tell him $40 thinking that he is curious before heading off to the local Wall Mart. We are in the middle of the desert and sometimes I forget how un-accessible some things are for people. He then ask-

How much for me?

It's not for sale.

No, how much for me?

Oh...I see. I think about it and of all the stuff in my bags; cameras, Ipods, trick little camping stuff, etc. he asked for the air mattress. This would probably make a significant improvement to his life for what is pennies to me, and my trip is almost done. It would've been easy enough to just wait in the line for the other soldiers, but I give him the mattress and he waves me around. My bike actually handles a little better without that thing waving in the wind

I have about 5 more hours of riding before I make it to any sort of lodging. Theirs 2 guys that sit along the highway with gas cans to sell Pemex. I fill up at the first one, but the 2nd guy wasn't around on this day so I have to slow down and moderate my fuel usage.

About an hour out from my destination in El Rosario I happen upon this situation.

It was my fisherman buddy from Mulege that I tried to get a ride from. Often, luck saves my hide more than all the preparation in the world.

He and the puppy were fine albeit shakin' up a bit.

As you can see going the other direction down the ravine would've been No Bueno!

The one thing you never do in Mexico is leave somebody along alone the highway especially with a vehicle to cannibalize. I wait with him for the two hours for the cops to show up, and another two or so for the tow truck.

So in the meantime...

...more pics of the scenery.

More Baja hay bales.

Check out the little flowers blooming at the top.

 

[CockyRooster]

It is dark now, the tow truck is said to be within 20 minutes away, so I ride off to El Rosario. I wanted to get a head start so if I had any problems the tow truck would be behind me as they carry the truck back and I could get some assistance.

You don't know dark until you've been on a Baja road at night with no moon. As I roll through the hills I can feel the bike leaning out on fuel when pointed downhill where the gas puddles to the front of the gas tank away from the feed line, so I just shut it off and coast for miles at a time. You don't know quiet until you've been in the middle of Baja in the middle of the night. I go super slow on the uphills with slow throttle movements and sputter into town to my hotel. It's so late no rooms are left, but they find me a nice spot in a made over broom closetarty.

As I've been going through Baja I've been looking for some of the "off the beaten path" orphanages and inquiring about what we as travelers can do to help, but I was particularly interested in meeting Mama Espinoza.

This woman turns 100 years old about 6 months after this picture was taken on Sept 16th. Gotta love the glass of Vino with breakfast.

The two boys are from her program and were some of the happiest, well behaved kids I've ever met.

Momma Espinoza is a huge supporter of the Baja races, and likewise. Malcolm Smith comes around often to help and she talks of racing legends as personal friends, and said one of her saddest phone calls was when Mickey Thompson was murdered as they were close enough that he called her on each of her birthdays. She was friends with Mike Goodwin too, and found the whole deal tragic.

We talked about different racing legends and she had more knowledge of racing and it's people than I ever could. She looked at me and asked if I've ever ran "The race" (Baja 1000.)

I said no.

She looked at me incredulously with a tone of why not, wimp, and asked, "Why not?"



This lady was beyond cool. Aside from the orphanage she founded the Flying Samaritans where doctors would fly in to help the helpless on top of many other ways she influences her environment for the better. We spoke for over an hour about philosophy, life's lessons learned, triumphs, and follies. She was regal, and the definition of a human being if I ever met one.

Later, I hung out with her son-in-law, Oscar, who was hillarious and we had each other in stitches.

He cans some fish that he catches to sell for $1 each.

It may not seem like much, but it takes that little to make a huge difference for the kids.

Her daughter working the register.

So if your cruising though drop in a few pesos because it really makes a huge difference in their lives.

They also appreciate clothes, shoes, rice, beans, and tooth paste with fluoride. This stuff can be hard to come by south of the border.

It's a cool place to stop and feast.

 

[CockyRooster]

The ATM in Guerro Negro was useless to me, and there is nothing here in town so I have to go all the way back up to San Quintin (about 44 miles up) to find some cash. Things are not always convenient in Mexico so be prepared

Off to San Felipe on the other side of the mountains!

I back through Catavina and cross over by Coco's place. I've got some 30-40 miles of this...

...and more of that...

...until I make it to Coco's Corner!

His homestead. He pops out of his "bedroom" when he hears that company has arrived.

Coco is legendary among travelers and racers, and you have not completed a trip through Baja if you have not had a beer with Coco!

He's doing fine, but waiting to have his other leg amputated in about a month due to an infection. Self pity never even occurred to this man. This guy is tough.

The shack is decorated to a certain taste...

...with souvenirs brought from around the world...

...and wall paper of a particular style

This man has had visitors from ebery corner of the world.

His and her bathrooms are available.

And time to go. Only another 30-40 miles of this to go!

A lot of this road crosses the race course so I would diverge onto the course for miles at a time pretending to be Scott Summersarty

 

[CockyRooster]

According to my travel guide the next fuel available will be at a restaurant served out 55 gallon drums at the Bahia San Luis Gonzaga, but Coco warns me that a few travelers who passed through the day before said they were out. I motor out that way and sure enough - no Pemex, but nice water to look at.

Beautiful, just absolutely beautiful terrain.

It's been some 60mi~ of dirt road and some of the best fun yet Some slow going as the road was rough enough to vibrate one of my mirrors off, and also some blasting down the Baja race course.
The only people I saw on the road was a pair of riders heading down who were counting on getting gas at the Restaurant at San Luis Gonzaga Bay. I hope they don't mind staying a few nights until they get delivery of Pemex - that's just the way it is yonder south

It's been some 150mi~ since I left in the morning and the little mule is sucking fumes when I arrive to Puertecitos. This is where the dirt ends and the pavement starts again and seemingly contact again with N. American people and culture. Puertecitos is an old fishing port being developed into some style of a gated community, and I try my luck for gas to no avail.

The sun is going down but it is not dark as of yet, and I ponder if I could make it to San Felipe some 40 miles up the road with the hopes of a Pemex station along the road somewhere. I start off a few miles but think the better of it and strike a deal with a man who owns a small market to sell me a gallon of gas. He ask if I can wait an hour, and I did not see any choice so I settled in with a pack of cookies and some Gatorade. Eventually his 7 year old son comes into the store and he sends him off to siphon a gallon of gas from their very own car. Cool peeps.

I make it into San Felipe, find some dinner and bedding, and take some pictures of town in the morning.

 

[CockyRooster]

I have no idea why, but in their town center they have a statue of what looks like an over grown boy having his way with a big fish. Draw your own conclusions.

Some of the more popular restaurants. My hotel was adjoined to the back of the Taco Factory, and I had to pay the hostess the rent for my room.

I find some good breakfast at this bagel/breakfast shop here. It was sooooo good!

I was enjoying my coffee while striking up a conversation with some folks next to me, and it turns out that they own the joint. I share with them about my adventure and he tells me that the Tecate 250 race will be in town in a few days. He tries to convince me that I should stay and watch, and then I should enter the race, and soon he was ready to sponsor me, supply my gas/pit stops service and house me for a few days. These people are passionate about racing! He was getting excited thinking about it, but knowing what I've put the bike through lately I don't think it would of made it past the starting gate I regretfully decline the offer, but he said come back and we will make it happen

I pass on watching the race as well and decide to pack up and move out. I feel as though I've left the real Baja and think I may as well just go home at this point, but I'm just not ready to leave yet. I look through the guide book and find some hot springs are on my way out to the border. Hallelujah! Guadalupe Canyon here I come

 

[CockyRooster]

So there are no official roads going to Guadalupe Canyon - you take a guess on the map of where to exit the highway and just head in the general direction over 40+ miles of dry lake bed.

I find some evidence of travel, and give it a shot. It must be out there, no?

Or is it over there?

Nope...not over there.

Ahhh...possibly in there?

Here?

Nope. Wrong mountain range. I actually run across a local out there and he informs me that the canyon I'm looking for is about 50mi. from here, and I have about 50 miles worth of gas left. I decide that it is safer to back track the 40 miles to the highway and find a sure thing for fuel, and that sure thing was almost to the border. I ended up running an extra 130 miles and 3 hours because I was short a gallon of gas

Alas, I find my way.

Notice the trees have black trunks. A wild fire came through a few months earlier and cleaned the canyon out of much of it's vegetation leaving a very cool looking environment.

The good news - I have the entire camp nearly to myself, but the bad news - 500 or so hard partying kids have rented out the entire campground for the weekend. Since I've gone through the trouble to find my way here they decide to let me hang around and join the party, but not let me pay since I don't have my own camp space.

Again - luck pays off for me far more than all the preparation in the world could have.arty

I settle in for the night into my own private camp space (the picture is from the next morning as I rolled in at dusk.)

 

[CockyRooster]

And here's the private tub belonging to the camp spot. It's about 8' wide and 3' deep with a shelf that fits the body perfectly keeping the head out of water. I fell asleep there the night before and awoke to a raccoon checking things out not knowing I was there. The startle was mutual.

Aaaahhhhh.......

And my view.

Here...let me lean over the edge a little for you guys...

It was an amazing night of rest with an unbelievable natural morning.

 

[CockyRooster]

Some of the local "foilage."

I continue hiking up the mountain through renewing vegetation...

...and a better view of the canyon.

I make my way back down to camp and it looks as though the first of my 500 new friends have began trickling in getting things ready and warming up for the festivities.

And half an hour later...

 

[CockyRooster]

All sorts of folks floated on in.

And the evening started to slowly get under way with music louder than anything I have ever heard before. Ever.

 

[CockyRooster]

The evening was pretty low key, and the following morning was greeted with smells of bacon and biscuits from all camps. I did not go hungry, and appreciated the break from Top Ramen!

Throughout the day people would hike up to the swimming hole to cool off.

More people flowed in during the day and the evening kicked up with a lot of dancing, and perhaps a tequila shot or two. A lot of kids playing with fire

Getting started here...

This is a Hula hoop on fire.

A small sample of what went on through the night.
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Watch out for the hair spray!

 

[HiggyB]

I love how these posts just keep rollin' in, keep it up!

(and I hope you're enjoying the reliving as much as I am the reading )

That event, was that like a mini Mexican Burning Man or what?