Baja - ride report to Cabo...and back!

[wally]

i was having trouble posting the above pic too, thats why there was a double post. I tried changing the picture, because the first was taking forever to load. After changing it, I noticed that my initial post had indeed posted even though it looked to be just loading the image. does that make sense?

 

[CockyRooster]

Yea - my troubles started out as with the double posting. It would sit there in a loop so I would stop it and it would double post. Since then I have been unable to load any pictures.

 

[wally]

lame. I want to see your todos pics.

 

[EastBayDave]

keep it coming...great stuff!!!

 

[jrbruin]

Break time's over, gotta finish this trip report! Don't leave me hanging!

 

[CockyRooster]

(I guess I'll go one picture at a time if need be.)

So rather then go down and around through Cabo San Lucas I cut through the mountains. The trail is only marked along the highway by way of a break in the cactus and gravel strewn out on the road. For many of these roads shown on the map you have to scale out your millage and set your tripometer, and hope that you chose the right one.

 

[wally]

you have http: twice in the address of the pic. when I delete the first, I can see the pic (map).

 

[CockyRooster]

Hmmm....How did you see that. The addy wasn't even showing up in the post on my screen. Oh well...let's get back to Baja Thanks for the help

This will be much of the scenery for the 35mi. +/-arty There would be about 5 of these stream crossings.

...as it twist into single track through the brush. It is in spots like these that you wonder if you are on the right trail, and surrender to the thought that you not be, and have to turn back after a full day's riding.

But that's what makes it an adventure, right?

The terrain was very Sierra-Nevada Mountains like. Seasonally dry with heavy brush over the rocky terrain and the occasional stream running through it.

The occasional evidence that others find this path useful.

 

[CockyRooster]

The trail unwinds down the mountain side back into a valley.

I top the final ridge with the Pacific in the background, and you can see a speck of the trail on the right side of the pic.

I kill the engine to let it cool after all of the slow going lumbering up the mountains and enjoy a quiet coasting ride all the way down to the flats. A quiet serenity in the warm desert air but for the low whir of the chain and rocks popping out from under my tires.

This day was one of the best times I've ever spent on a motorcycle, and it only got better as the trail opened up into a road for some fun flat-tracking

 

[CockyRooster]

A few curves are in place to keep things interesting. Note that Baja hay bales are a little less forgiving of mistakes than your average track day

The trail randomly dumps out onto the highway and I make my way into Todos Santos. The one landmark that everybody knows...

This is the hotel in, or on, the cover of "Hotel California" - Eagles. The real hotel is a mental institution/drug rehab place in Los Angeles, but this is the building used for the cover shot

The little mule parked across the street where I plan on having lunch. I am absolutely exhausted. Just the same morning I was bathing nekkid in a river on the other side of the penninsula and I had not time for much breakfast or lunch. I am dehydrated, and my head is pounding from the still booming exhaust.

This restaurant capitalizes on being next to the Hotel California and plays Eagle's songs all day long in a constant loop. This would be great if you did not hate the Eagles They were fine the first bazillionth time I've heard their work, and my head was pounding so loud that I could hardly hear the waitress when I walked in - much less the music. Otherwise I would have found a nice taco cart. The staff seemed to be incredibly annoyed too as they were a bit edgy and tart. I did not blame them.

I eat and quickly seek out my hotel for some well deserved R&R.

The door at the top of the stairs is actually a storage room. There is no real front desk or obvious reception area.

Except this at the top of the stairs

I ring the bell repeatedly while I wait for 10 minutes before checking around in the local shops for some help, but they all seem to be closed. I go and ring the bell again waiting for 15 minutes until finally I decide to seek out other options.

 

[CockyRooster]

I cruised around for an hour or two checking other hotel options exploring the town and its outskirts in general.

I found this little gem on the coast, but no vacancy.

While not super cheap, it was right on the coast for you surfers out there. The waves looked really good for a beach break.

Little dude in the parking lot showin' how it's done Baja style.

Without much luck I returned back to the hotel in my original plan. I rang the bell again then checked the neighboring pharmacy for help. The lady knew the hotel owner and sent her kid down to the restaurant to find her. Mexico, eh?

This little cafe is a little bit famous for it's good food and entertainment according to my guide book. It seems to be after hours so I look forward to an excellent breakfast and coffee just outside my hotel door in the morning

I wash up, take a nap, and the day had come to an end when I awoke, so I seek out some dinner. The town is quiet without much activity and the streets were scarce of people. Times here are super tough for the local people and very few smiles were found among them along the streets. This place feels like where people go to be forgotten, and not found. I was reading some local fliers of houses getting ransacked with crime escalating and watch groups forming to tackle the issue.

I kept to myself and found some dinner in this little hut.

(This picture was taken the following morning.)
That's the highway coming in through Todos Santos from the south before it bends a hard right through the short, more touristy, part of town.

After dinner I return back to my room, and since it is rather early and I had already rested a bit I stay up and finish my book, A Streetcar Named Desire by Tennessee Williams.

¡Eh Esteeeeellaaaaa!

 

[CockyRooster]

It was a terrible night's sleep because a large air compressor or some sort of shop equipment was bolted to my hotel wall. It was loud and obnoxious, but also intermittant which made it worse. I would finally get used to the noise and it would stop into a jolting silence, and then start again just as I would doze off. The plan was to stay for two nights in Todos Santos, but we will see.

I wake up early (if I ever slept) and walk around town exploring different sights waiting for the cafe to open.

A typical street off of the main road.

This is actually part of the touristy part of town.

A street off of the main square/mission area.

The church itself.

Mexicans are typically devout Catholic and have a strong connection to God being so close to the Equator (closer to heaven), so their paintings of Jesus comes with a real life halo.

 

[CockyRooster]

This looks to be a theater in the main square for live performances.

This is a pic of a house, that can be really any house, once your off the main artery of town.

I've worked up my appetite and head back to the cafe for desayuno!

On my way back I discover that you can find a bimbo at the corner market.

...but wait.....it's Wednesday for cripes sake!mad

I take note of the chains on the door..

...and decide to pack up and move on back to La Paz today.

But before I do I repay a visit to a little buddy that I met the night before.

This little guy was blind in both eyes and sleeping under a car tire when I found him. He would perk up when I walked by but couldn't keep his balance and would fall over. I cautiously approached him and he was the sweetest fella. We shared a little breakfast of some muffin that I had bought. Thanks for helping me keep perspective, little Buddy.

 

[CockyRooster]

Sorry about the delay folks - I've been stuck twiddling away my time elsewhere

After packing up and splitting the hotel I visit one of my old surfing spots. To find it you used to have to look for a small path off the side of the ride and drive through some fields of deep sand. I had trouble finding it every time and could spend hours driving back and forth looking for the dang thing. But it was worth it as only the serious seekers found the place, and I loved the desolation and remoteness of it.

The current road going in.

This used to be the only structure on the beach.

Well things have changed a little bit.

And the new restaurant.

As you may have noticed...I've been somewhat chagrined and saddened by the rapid "race to accommodate Americans" developments, but I digress and just decide to appreciate how things were back in the old days when I had to walk 20 miles to school, in snow, uphill, both ways, and just relax with the understanding that nothing is forever.

Hey - looks like a seat for me!

And the view was great.

And the moment you all were waiting for...Breakfast

A coke, yes - no Corona as it may be a long day of riding ahead.

 

[CockyRooster]

I'm hanging out enjoying the scene and notice that the vibe is actually pretty cool. Things have changed some but the adventurous spirit of the place seems intact. I start looking around and they have this gem sitting in the restaurant

I say my goodbyes to the place and shuffle off to La Paz again.

 

[CockyRooster]

It's a fairly quick ride back to La Paz with just maybe a few hours of travel time.

I arrive and check into the same hotel as before. $25 a night and almost on the water.

I notice some festivities brewing.

I return to the shop I visited previously and had them change the oil. The back shop was still kind of full so the guy changes the oil out on the sidewalk. He obviously had a bit of poor aim but this will soon be the cleanest part of the sidewalk. You can also see the only clean spot on the little mule where the dirt is rubbed from the tank = good times

When adventuring there is no such thing as wasted space. Notice the turn signal doubles as the cable lock holder.

The oil got changed and I asked where I could find a car/bike wash. They insisted that they would wash it for me. I came back later and the bike was super clean. Total $ for the oil, labor, and wash? Under $20u.s.

And here the he is back at the hotel sparkling and ready for the nights festivities.

Which turns out to be the last night of Carnival. I couldn't of stumbled upon that if I tried

 

[massio]

to Cabo!

The journey.

...an epic adventure...to ride from the SF peninsula to Cabo San Lucas...

...my GF is flying down to Cabo to meet me...

...Cabo...1000mi +/- past the border. Noooo problem...

ahhhh...memories... Long live the Cabo 1000!

 

[CockyRooster]

People started flowing onto the street...

and flowing...

until the parade started. Grabbed myself a chair and a couple coronas and watched the show pass by.

Every float had amps that went to 11

And they can dance

And dance.

And dance some more.

 

[CockyRooster]

Shakin' the out

A few more people began to flow into the scene.

This stage was set up on the dock of my previous photos. I did not know the artist, but the people there were pretty jazzed about it.

The real fun was near the stage. I represented as well as I could

 

[CockyRooster]

One of numerous stages. They had not started playing yet otherwise it would be packed to the stage.

Like this

They partied all through the night and the Pacifico girl cruises through in the early morning dawn. Talk about endurance!

Just jokin' I forgot to add the pic in the other post

It was a way night with lots of fun hangin' about the festivities. Met some people, shook my shoes and had a fun time. What a great surprise to stumble on to.

The next morning the Carnival was packing up and the town was quiet as a hangover. There was that feeling of when you'd stayed at a party too long and people were trying to clean up around you, so I slugged some coffee and made trail for Bahîa Magdalena in search of some epic whale watchingarty.