Baja 2016 Day 4 -
PSF south via the No Wimps Trail
Anytwowilldo, Leo_jb, and I are set to attempt the No Wimps Trail heading south from PSF on day 4. The rest of the group has multiple options from easy to "fun" to get to the pavement near the Viscaino turnoff. They will have to elaborate on their day.
The No Wimps Trail. From what I understand and have read, the route was originally opened by Bill Nichols. Some folks call it the Malcolm Smith trail, but he may have only made it known. The credit for the idea to attempt it this year goes to Leo. He had just gotten his E32 gps maps and asked me what this route south of PSF is. GPS maps give you no indication of the difficulty of any route. I told him thats the No Wimps Trail. I have done some riding around the north side of it and from the south above Santa Marta, but never as far as El Gato.
Before the hurricanes it could take a skilled advanced rider all day, some 10-15 hrs to complete the 140 miles. From our research online (by no means definitive), we couldnt find a single story of a motorcycle riding it since Hurricane Odile. If a group had gone through, it would be significant and I would believe there would be evidence of it online. Perhaps some locals or pros have and no one has written about it. I dont know.
There was a group of 4x4s that went through last year taking 4 days. One of the drivers had competed in the Camel Trophy Series. Leo was able acquire his tracks. I was pessimistic giving us less than a 50/50 chance of finding a way or even being able to complete if we did find a route through. While the three of us are experienced riders, I'll be on a 350+ lb XR with bags pushing the bike over 400lbs. The route that hasnt been washed out by Odile is rough and challenging, let alone the washes that are nothing but boulder gardens for miles. Then again, why SHOULDNT we attempt it!
Tom of course was up for it without question. We were armed with multiple paper maps, Tom's tablet with satellite images, Leo's gps with the 4x4 groups tracks, his In Reach satellite tracking/communicating device (love this item btw), and prepared to spend two days if needed. Game on!
The sandy two track from south from PSF to El Barril was fun and enjoyable. Typical riding for the area. Cutting east up Las Cuevitas wash, more of the same. We encounter our first loose rocky two track climb where portions of the track are washed out near Mesa Alambrado. I make a misstep on a tight right hander hitting a larger rock with my front tire and go down. No big deal.... but I am reminded of how heavy my bike is picking it up. On my two stroke YZ250 this climb could be done on auto pilot. On a loaded heavy bike I would need to be careful and conserve my energy.
On the other side of the climb we make the decision to not immediately enter La Fortuna wash but take Rancho Santa Barbara's detour over another climb (I dont believe this is on the Atlas or maps). Wise decision. Its another loose rocky climb that spits us out further up the wash after descending the other side, but its rideable. Sandy, rocky, and winding... but we are making progress forward. I think we are all feeling good physically with good spirits. This isnt that bad, maybe we can find a way through.
We come to intersection of where the old route went straight down the side of the wash and another detour taking us away from the our destination a bit that the 4x4 group took. It takes us across the wash via a sandy two track (hey, we CAN do this). It ends in what appears to be a very long and wide boulder wash (perhaps 1/4 mile wide). West up the wash is a traveled track through the boulders and river stones to Santa Barbara... rideable for sure. East, the direction we need to go... nothing. Just large boulders and river rock.
Here we take a break. I walk across the boulder wash looking for any easier route down the wash as Tom does the same. Leo sits down and begins to look at his GPS tracks and maps. Finding nothing across the wash or dirt on higher ground to ride, I am greeted by a high steep wall on the other side. So I walk back to where we have left our bikes. Tom also returned finding nothing.
We have lunch and hydrate while discussing our options. It would be work getting down this boulder wash on light dirtbikes, let alone how we are equipped. We dont know how long the boulder wash will last, and we could be greeted by a couple more. Potentially miles of this stuff. The risk involved overheating bikes, burnt out clutchs, a poorly placed foot dab resulting in a sprain or broken ankle.... or at best picking up very heavy bikes multiple times. Tom being the superhuman he is jumps on his XR as Leo and I continue to sit and spectate. He is bouncing, bumping, being jolted left and right as he stands on his pegs riding a 1/4 mile down the wash. Definately doable, but at what cost to energy and bike?
We can see how a 4x4 can creep down this, or perhaps a light dirtbike could make it easier. Leo and I both come to the conclusion that its not worth it as Tom is riding back. Thankful Tom has come to the same conclusion when he rejoins us. We have made it 35-40 miles and seen some incredible scenery that very few ever do. We are grateful for that.
Decision made to turn around, we mount our bikes. I dont make it 10ft before falling. Weird, I dont feel tired. I struggle with help to get the bike up. I take a minute for inventory. I dont feel tired, i know what tired muscles feel like. I remount and begin riding again, albeit slower and struggling for control of my bike. I am shocked to go down in the sand again.
Something isnt right, and I cant figure it out. I dont normally struggle with terrain or effort like this. I've experienced heat stroke before, and this isnt it. I've experienced severe exhaustion, this isnt it. I am perplexed and honestly a little worried as we have a tough ride of 30-40 miles out of her. Am I sick? I feel fine and strong. My brain isnt communicating with my muscles.
I let Leo and Tom know I am not ok. Discuss a bit and decide to move on to look for shade, rest, and evaluate. Riding slow in a sand wash takes way more energy than getting up on the pegs with some speed and I know this. I try upshifting and get on the pegs, but cant control the bike as I normally do and go down again. This is NOT good. We need to move and find shelter. I find myself a bit further down the wash completely stopped, but upright and staring at deep washed out rut that I think I am stuck in (I am not). Tom later mentions that I saying a few things that just dont make sense. I am obviously in trouble.
As luck would have it, I struggle far enough up the wast to find one of the few trees providing real shade. We all take shelter and I drink an entire bottle of Gatoraid. Tom asks when the last time I took a piss and if so what color was it.... hmmmmmm..... not today. Tom goes on to give a clinic on pee, color, and hydration. I am obviously severely dehydrated. We have plenty of liquids, I just havent been consuming enough. Tom to the rescue again. He can fix bikes and bodies! Doctora Jensen, "I am not a Dr in real life, but play a damn good one in Baja."
We all take a good nap under the tree and I obviously consume more liquids. I'm still not 100%, but we should press on if we want to make it back to PSF before nightfall. I really have to concentrate to keep my bike upright and pick my lines with care. But Tom and Leo stay behind to babysit me and ensure I make it safely. Huge thanks to both of you for getting me through this.
In my condition, we have a couple of tough climbs ahead of us. I manage to make it up the first one a good ways before a slow tip over and Leo helps me right the bike. I make it the rest of the climb with out an incident, as well as the next one. My body control and confidence is slowly coming back, but Leo and Tom still wisely sweep behind me to ensure all is ok.
As my body control slowly comes back, my pace and confidence returns as well. I get across a couple more washes with short steep climbs out and stop to regroup. I wait for 10 minutes and see no sign of them. Hmmmmmm..... I am feeling better and riding a bit faster, but not that fast. I turn around thinking maybe I missed a junction. When I do come across them, I find Leo kneeling in the desert shirtless with Tom hovering over him with a tool.
Leo had a little fight with a cactus and his arm, shoulder and back is now showing the results of that lost fight. Baja cacti. Not your soft fluffy house broken kind you see in the states. The needles down there are long and more like steal fish hooks for ocean game fish. The will puncture tough offroad tires and tubes, stick in and through plastic handguards. Now imagine them in flesh. Yeh, they hurt like HELL!
Tom was practicing his Baja Dr skills and removing them from Leo's body with a set of pliers.
Dr Jensen.......
Surgery complete we press on. By the time we arrive at the sandy two tracks south of El Barril, I am feeling close to normal and can start to exert my will on the sand again.
I remember that I like sand and blasting corners with the deep stuff.
Safely back in PSF, we arrange for gas and spring for beds in the cabana. best extra $10 spent on the whole trip. Leo also sends a message via satellite txt on his In Reach we are spending the night in PSF and will rejoin the group in Mulege.
Dinner is arranged and Dr Jensen has requested the meals be supersized.
Fish Tacos, its PSF, did anyone expect anything different on the menu.
I couldnt finish my meal of four large fish tacos and a grande portion of rice and beans. I am hydrating, eating, and drinking a couple of beers before we all call it an early night.
Great adventure and grateful to have Tom and Leo along on todays adventure. Also reinforced a truly important lesson on hydration (and one I should know). Baja, F yeh.
