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Dead Gixxer...

Bronto said:
It would be ironic after wrenching done it turns out to be a loose battery cable. :D
Check the ground connection as well. A load tester (+) battery to frame.

Start a forum pool. Nickel bet on its a 20 A fuse in the main fuse block. Not the 30 A cable fuse.
Click to expand...

I bet the red switch on the right grip is in the up position.
 
You guys! :laughing Fuses are fine, killswitch is in the "on" position!

Update: We found some fried wiring at the end of the wiring harness. We replaced the starter relay, and even though the battery tested ok, when we put it on the charger, it would not charge, so I replaced it. The last thing left to do is order the plastic thingy that the wires of the wiring harness go into, that will clip into the regulator/rectifier. Yes, I know, I'm using "girlspeak" to describe a part by saying plastic thingy, but I'm too tired to remember the word!! :x:twofinger
Anyways, Dave plugged in each individual wire, and I turned the key, and VOILA! My baby was alive!!! :banana
So tomorrow I'll go to Motowrx, and make Andy miserable by having him go through the K&L catalog to find the plastic thingy I need! :)
 
Gixxergirl1000 said:
:facepalm Dood... standards... get some... :p
Click to expand...

Dood....Suzuki....doesn't win without Mat Mladin. :laughing :later


On another note, I love ya Connie, but this is why people who are not 100% capable with wiring shouldn't screw with their taillights/turnsignals. Brandon had electrical issues with the ratnest in his tail too that I fixed that might have led to the same issue. If the rear fender is that ugly, don't buy the bike. Or at least get an eliminator that retains the stock signals.
 
Gixxergirl1000 said:
The last thing left to do is order the plastic thingy that the wires of the wiring harness go into, that will clip into the regulator/rectifier. Yes, I know, I'm using "girlspeak" to describe a part by saying plastic thingy, but I'm too tired to remember the word!!
Click to expand...

I do believe it's called a "plug!"

:twofinger
 
Why spend the $$ on a connector when you can solder it together? What's it like 5 wires? Three yellow and a black and red? Solder that shit.. It'll last longer.. Oh yeah.. BTW.. I'd go through the rest of the bike and put some e-grease in those connectors so the same thing doesn't happen to the others..





Gixxergirl1000 said:
You guys! :laughing Fuses are fine, killswitch is in the "on" position!

Update: We found some fried wiring at the end of the wiring harness. We replaced the starter relay, and even though the battery tested ok, when we put it on the charger, it would not charge, so I replaced it. The last thing left to do is order the plastic thingy that the wires of the wiring harness go into, that will clip into the regulator/rectifier. Yes, I know, I'm using "girlspeak" to describe a part by saying plastic thingy, but I'm too tired to remember the word!! :x:twofinger
Anyways, Dave plugged in each individual wire, and I turned the key, and VOILA! My baby was alive!!! :banana
So tomorrow I'll go to Motowrx, and make Andy miserable by having him go through the K&L catalog to find the plastic thingy I need! :)
Click to expand...
 
Solder sucks. :D

My suggestion and what I use on all my equipment...

DTM_descrip.jpg
 
Kornholio said:
Solder sucks. :D

My suggestion and what I use on all my equipment...

DTM_descrip.jpg
Click to expand...

Douche connectors? Not worth the trouble or the cost..IMHO.. Although, they are small and that helps but why bother? That specific connector need to be unplugged once, every, never? :teeth
 
Ironbutt said:
Douche connectors? Not worth the trouble or the cost..IMHO.. Although, they are small and that helps but why bother? That specific connector need to be unplugged once, every, never? :teeth
Click to expand...

Solder has a tendency to give under weather and vibration/flex. Deutsch (Douche...LOLz!) connectors do not. :D We use them on all out installations due to the heavy duty, dust, weather, vibration environments.
 
Marlowe said:
Connector? Boot? Strain relief?
Click to expand...

CONNECTOR!!!!!! Thank you, Dear!

Kornholio said:
Dood....Suzuki....doesn't win without Mat Mladin. :laughing :later


On another note, I love ya Connie, but this is why people who are not 100% capable with wiring shouldn't screw with their taillights/turnsignals. Brandon had electrical issues with the ratnest in his tail too that I fixed that might have led to the same issue. If the rear fender is that ugly, don't buy the bike. Or at least get an eliminator that retains the stock signals.
Click to expand...

I did not put in the aftermarket tail light with the integrated turn signal. It was already in place. :p

AkatomboRR said:
you guys are soo mean... :cry
Click to expand...

It's a gift... :teeth
 
Kornholio said:
I've got money that says that's where your problem started. :D
Click to expand...

PM Mosquito... he said it was actually wired correctly. Problem didn't start there. It's since been rewired with little bullet turn signals, and I have the white lights over the plate now, too. Looks like I'm actually legal! :laughing
 
Gixxergirl1000 said:
PM Mosquito... he said it was actually wired correctly. Problem didn't start there. It's since been rewired with little bullet turn signals, and I have the white lights over the plate now, too. Looks like I'm actually legal! :laughing
Click to expand...

Being wired "correctly" doesn't mean it's done right or will even stay in full contact. All it takes is one sharp jolt and you've got a short that can fry the system.
 
Once every reg/rec, but since it's a Suzuki, not a Honda, she should be okay with solder.

For power, if you just need to tie a few +B wires together, I'd consider using one of the Polaris splice connctors if they are decent sized conductors, and you wanted to do something a little less permanent than solder.

http://www.polarisconnectors.com/37022_POLSAL_EXTRA_IPLM.pdf

They'll take down to 14 AWG, and should be available from an electrical supply house. Reusable, and put 'em on with nothing more than a hex key.

Kornholio said:
Solder has a tendency to give under weather and vibration/flex.
Click to expand...

Really? I worry more about connectors in weather. A properly spliced, soldered, and heat shrinked connection, is fine. But connectors corrode.

Never had a problem with any of my splices, they'll outlast the bike.

People who have lots of problems with soldered joints aren't doing it correctly.

This doesn't mean that crimped, connectorized terminations are bad, but a properly soldered joint is not some disaster waiting to happen.
 
Last edited:
Looks like it already got taken care of, but in general, for electrical gremlins, start with these three items:

  • Fuses
  • Grounds
  • Relays
90% of electrical gremlins are the first two, and the third are easy to identify and replace.
 
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