Simply because you can RENT some incredibly impressive lenses. Going to MotoGP? Rent a good telephoto or telephoto-zoom lens, sit on the hill opposite the corkscrew, and have fun.
Also, even the best point-n-shoots often have some shutter lag. With absolutely 0 shutter lag, this isn't a problem with a DSLR.
Yes, I know. The real advantages of the 20D over 10D are the noise levels and FPS they can manage (and for how long) during rapid shooting.
And as long as you can do a few simple tests, I don't see anything wrong with buying used prosumer gear.
Simply because you can RENT some incredibly impressive lenses. Going to MotoGP? Rent a good telephoto or telephoto-zoom lens, sit on the hill opposite the corkscrew, and have fun.
Also, even the best point-n-shoots often have some shutter lag, and don't have the frame rate. With absolutely 0 shutter lag, and even on consumer level, a frame rate of 3 FPS, this isn't a problem with a DSLR.

except that with slow budget lenses you really have to pick between long exposure time, high ISO, or flash. getting usable images at ISO1600 and pretty good ones at ISO800 is a big advantage when you're shooting at F/5.6.He's looking for a beginners dslr it sounds like, noise levels and FPS should be his last concerns.
except that with slow budget lenses you really have to pick between long exposure time, high ISO, or flash. getting usable images at ISO1600 and pretty good ones at ISO800 is a big advantage when you're shooting at F/5.6.
and any time you're looking to take pictures of action, higher FPS is good.
I was thinking of zoom lenses, likely fairly long, as opposed to more medium primes. You're right about there being plenty of fairly fast primes available, I think the Canon 50/1.8 is also right around $100. I'll agree that there aren't all that many situations that warrant ISO800+ with a F/1.4 lens.I don't understand what you're saying. There are many inexpensive lenses that can offer fast and proper exposures even for low light situations. My nikkor 50 f1.4 was around $400... One stop slower is the 50 f1.8 which is something around $100??? Ideal for low light situations. Even then, when you're in a sitatuion where you'd need to use iso800 or 1600, really are no lenses that can offer you anyhthing different from another lense, unless you have a full frame camera like the D3 or 5D. If I'm in a situation where even my 50 f1.4 needed to be on iso 1600, I'd prob wanna have a tripod for me for that situation then.
Canon or Nikon, pick whichever one your friends have. And know good lenses can be pricey but addictive.
I'm not as good, but even a hack like me can get some good photos out of an XTi

and any time you're looking to take pictures of action, higher FPS is good.
For photographing action, however, you often don't want to multishoot: you get MUCH better results if you instead just try to time a SINGLE shot. EG, if you are photographing racers, track them with the camera (servoing the AF if you are a hack like me) and time the "click" at just the right point.
Yesterday, he was trying to time the shots and he said his photos turned out vastly better.
Beautiful.![]()
sweet,thats what i just bought also,I am trying to figure out how to get the best possible pics i can with it,so I am gonna be at the races on sunday at thundwerhill shooting like crazy.Just bought a Nikon D60 with 15-55 and 50-200 lenses.
Thanks everyone for the help. As usual BARF stokes me out.



