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Digital SLR / DSLR Camera Question / DSLR Thread 2

I wanna play! :cool

Canon 30D + Sigma 17-70 2.8-4.5
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Canon 30D + Nifty fifty

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Simply because you can RENT some incredibly impressive lenses. Going to MotoGP? Rent a good telephoto or telephoto-zoom lens, sit on the hill opposite the corkscrew, and have fun.

Also, even the best point-n-shoots often have some shutter lag. With absolutely 0 shutter lag, this isn't a problem with a DSLR.

Add to that, simply put, there isn't 1 lens that's perfect for every single situation. Each lens has it's difference specs and therefor you'd need to have a variety of lenses to switch between to accomodate your surroundings. My 18-70 and 50 f1.4 have prob been close to the only 2 lenses where I find I'm able to use them for a majoirty of my shots.
 
Yes, I know. The real advantages of the 20D over 10D are the noise levels and FPS they can manage (and for how long) during rapid shooting.

And as long as you can do a few simple tests, I don't see anything wrong with buying used prosumer gear.

He's looking for a beginners dslr it sounds like, noise levels and FPS should be his last concerns.

Also what kind of tests are you talking about? You could drop a lense and not have a scratch on it, but if the optics are just hairs of an inch off, it can totally mess with your image in ways you wouldn't be able to tell. Chromatic abberation and bokeh could all be effected, but even when looking on your computer, still might not be able to see it unless blown up completely.
 
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Simply because you can RENT some incredibly impressive lenses. Going to MotoGP? Rent a good telephoto or telephoto-zoom lens, sit on the hill opposite the corkscrew, and have fun.

Also, even the best point-n-shoots often have some shutter lag, and don't have the frame rate. With absolutely 0 shutter lag, and even on consumer level, a frame rate of 3 FPS, this isn't a problem with a DSLR.

Found: Nikon D40 hanging off the back of a 200mm f/2 :wow :rofl

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He's looking for a beginners dslr it sounds like, noise levels and FPS should be his last concerns.
except that with slow budget lenses you really have to pick between long exposure time, high ISO, or flash. getting usable images at ISO1600 and pretty good ones at ISO800 is a big advantage when you're shooting at F/5.6.

and any time you're looking to take pictures of action, higher FPS is good.
 
except that with slow budget lenses you really have to pick between long exposure time, high ISO, or flash. getting usable images at ISO1600 and pretty good ones at ISO800 is a big advantage when you're shooting at F/5.6.

and any time you're looking to take pictures of action, higher FPS is good.

I don't understand what you're saying. There are many inexpensive lenses that can offer fast and proper exposures even for low light situations. My nikkor 50 f1.4 was around $400... One stop slower is the 50 f1.8 which is something around $100??? Ideal for low light situations. Even then, when you're in a sitatuion where you'd need to use iso800 or 1600, really are no lenses that can offer you anyhthing different from another lense, unless you have a full frame camera like the D3 or 5D. If I'm in a situation where even my 50 f1.4 needed to be on iso 1600, I'd prob wanna have a tripod for me for that situation then.

For your second point, I completely agree that for action shots, like racing events, a higher fps is a def nice thing to have. But for someone learning, you're not gonna be shooting in situations like that. You're gonna be having too much fun learning manual mode and shooting in raw around the house, park, or with friends. By the time you're comfortable with all the controls and basics, you'd see FPS isn't really something too necessary since you should know how to pan your shots properly.
 
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I don't understand what you're saying. There are many inexpensive lenses that can offer fast and proper exposures even for low light situations. My nikkor 50 f1.4 was around $400... One stop slower is the 50 f1.8 which is something around $100??? Ideal for low light situations. Even then, when you're in a sitatuion where you'd need to use iso800 or 1600, really are no lenses that can offer you anyhthing different from another lense, unless you have a full frame camera like the D3 or 5D. If I'm in a situation where even my 50 f1.4 needed to be on iso 1600, I'd prob wanna have a tripod for me for that situation then.
I was thinking of zoom lenses, likely fairly long, as opposed to more medium primes. You're right about there being plenty of fairly fast primes available, I think the Canon 50/1.8 is also right around $100. I'll agree that there aren't all that many situations that warrant ISO800+ with a F/1.4 lens.
 
I hear there's an xti in the grabbag for cheap, there was something about a little saltwater spray getting into it though:rofl
 
Canon or Nikon, pick whichever one your friends have. And know good lenses can be pricey but addictive.

I'm not as good, but even a hack like me can get some good photos out of an XTi

Best camera advice ever!!! I change lenses with my friend all the time. We both have Canon 20d's. I can't wait to visit the gf's parents and play with her dads 600mm :teeth
 
and any time you're looking to take pictures of action, higher FPS is good.

High FPS however, is not necessarily a necessity. For shooting a crash sequence, 3 FPS works just fine. Yeah, a 10 FPS 1D Mk III would be great, but you don't need it.

For photographing action, however, you often don't want to multishoot: you get MUCH better results if you instead just try to time a SINGLE shot. EG, if you are photographing racers, track them with the camera (servoing the AF if you are a hack like me) and time the "click" at just the right point.


I have a friend who also has a Canon, and I permi-loaned him my old cheap 75-300mm telephoto (again, get the body your friend's have), because he's photographing friends playing volleyball and other action where it helps to get closer to the action. At the same time, he was trying to hold down the button and get good shots, but not getting the classic dramatic photos he was hoping for.

Yesterday, he was trying to time the shots and he said his photos turned out vastly better.
 
For photographing action, however, you often don't want to multishoot: you get MUCH better results if you instead just try to time a SINGLE shot. EG, if you are photographing racers, track them with the camera (servoing the AF if you are a hack like me) and time the "click" at just the right point.

Yesterday, he was trying to time the shots and he said his photos turned out vastly better.

:thumbup Great advice here. High frame rate is nice, but I'd rather have one image shot at the crucial moment than ten shots, all too early or late.

Beautiful. :cool

Thanks! Blue Ridge Parkway. North Carolina in Spring. 300 miles of awesome beauty! :thumbup
 
Outstanding choice. Some places I highly suggest you visit for the future:

Reviews and Definitions

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials.htm (my favorite site I visited when I was a nub)

The best cameras arranged by price range per Steve:
http://www.steves-digicams.com/best_cameras.html

Glossary per DPReview
http://www.dpreview.com/learn/?/Glossary/

Ken Rockwells (some hate him, some love him... good info either way if you look properly) FAQ:
http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech.htm

CF/SD card performance database:
http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/mul...e.asp?cid=6007


Quality Online Vendors:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/

http://www.adorama.com

Lighting

http://strobist.blogspot.com/


Photoshop techniques

http://ronbigelow.com/articles/articles.htm

http://www.good-tutorials.com


On-line Print Labs

http://www.whcc.com (White House Custom Color)

http://www.mpix.com (A Division of Millers)

http://www.Costco.com (Remote uploading available plus one hour photos. Most locations can print up to 12x18 and with a printer profile, they can turn out some very nice images)


Other Links

http://www.sportsshooter.com/ Great sports resource.

http://www.automotivephoto.net/- The definitive automotive photopgraphy website.
 
Just bought a Nikon D60 with 15-55 and 50-200 lenses.

Thanks everyone for the help. As usual BARF stokes me out.
sweet,thats what i just bought also,I am trying to figure out how to get the best possible pics i can with it,so I am gonna be at the races on sunday at thundwerhill shooting like crazy.:cool
 
Ken Rockwell :thumbdown he's good at making lots of noise, but after about a week you'll realize he's largely a self-promoting loudmouth.

Strobitst :thumbup best thing that ever happened to my photography, learning how to really use light.

Dpreview.... Careful, almost as addictive as barf!:twofinger
 
Shameless plug

I have a D50 body, BNIB 18-55mm kit lens (yes never used) with filter, 2 batteries, a charger, all cables/manuals/original box, and I'll throw in a free Tri-pod as well

Unlike the D40, this has a AF motor built in so you can use it with a lot more lenses (D40 you can only use DX series AF-S lenses that have AF motors in the lens, otherwise you can only use manual focus)

$400 obo for everything, only issue is the light meter in the view finder stopped working some how, but if you are shooting auto mode or get really good, you don't use that light meter anyway :teeth
 
so would you recommend for someone just starting out,to shoot in auto mode and go from ther as you get better and more comfortable with the camera?:cool
 
I keep hearing about Canon's "wonderful" customer support.

I wonder where all that great support was back in the '90s when all of us who bought those state of the art L1s got bit in the ass for $3500.00 and the cameras failed and Canon said "Gee we know there is a problem with the boards and the capacitors leak but there are no replacement parts..so sorry."

While I do like the EF lenses I just can't forget.
 
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