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GS500 build thread... cf tanks, internal supercharger, etc

matty said:
I was wondering about this, when you said you were working small sections at a time, what kind of resin is it? Similar to the stuff they use for preperg cf? By the way this project is pure awesome:thumbup
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Prepreg carbon already as the resin in the carbon. It's activated and starts to harden when exposed to high heat and pressure.

I'm using an epoxy resin that's made from two separate chemicals. Mix together and it starts to harden. Same concept as any other two part epoxy you may have used.
 
mllcb42 said:
I'm using an epoxy resin that's made from two separate chemicals. Mix together and it starts to harden. Same concept as any other two part epoxy you may have used.
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Got it, I realize now that I completely misread your post. Where you said 'doesn't break down until way hot', I read 'doesn't cure til way hot'...doh.
 
matty said:
Got it, I realize now that I completely misread your post. Where you said 'doesn't break down until way hot', I read 'doesn't cure til way hot'...doh.
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No worries. I was a bit confused though.


It does cure much better when heated though. I tend to cure everything around 100 degrees or so if possible.
 
With all the linkages in place.
rearset11.jpg


rearset21.jpg


rearset3.jpg


Think I need to modify the placement on the lever for the linkages to mount up to. I feel like I could get a little better leverage.
 
mllcb42 said:
With all the linkages in place.
rearset3.jpg
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I feel kinda bad criticizing your work, but do you think it'll be a problem that the shifter linkage rod is not shielded from the rider's foot in any way?
 
Alexey said:
I feel kinda bad criticizing your work, but do you think it'll be a problem that the shifter linkage rod is not shielded from the rider's foot in any way?
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As far as the threads on the rod or the rod placement?

I'm yet to see a set of rear sets that doesn't have an equal exposure to the rod itself as far as foot contact goes.

If you mean threads, I'm going to eventually try to run a different linkage rod that's internally threaded, but this was the easiest way to get it working for now while I finalize lengths, etc.
 
mllcb42 said:
As far as the threads on the rod or the rod placement?

I'm yet to see a set of rear sets that doesn't have an equal exposure to the rod itself as far as foot contact goes.

If you mean threads, I'm going to eventually try to run a different linkage rod that's internally threaded, but this was the easiest way to get it working for now while I finalize lengths, etc.
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I've run a lot of Attack rearsets on my track bikes and if I remember correctly, the pivot arm that moves the rod extends downward -- this alleviates the foot clearance issues for the Heim joint and also carries the rod generally further away from the foot. Of course it's still possible to touch the rod with the foot if the shifter lever is adjusted very low. For that reason, as I recall, most rearsets offset the pegs outward a bit. Maybe it's not clear from the photos, but are your rearsets putting the pegs right up against the mounting bolts?
 
I would try to get the shift rod as close to a 90 degree angle at both ends as possible - it results in smoother shifts.
 
You realize that you will need to do a Hossack front-end for full crazy mod credit ;)

Just kidding, this is awesome.
 
mllcb42 said:
With all the linkages in place.
rearset11.jpg
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That's an odd direction to place forces on a heim. can't tell thread sizes from the picture but can you swap the post in the master cylinder with the heim attached to the lever?
 
ohio said:
That's an odd direction to place forces on a heim. can't tell thread sizes from the picture but can you swap the post in the master cylinder with the heim attached to the lever?
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Can't swap.

This specific heim is actually designed to handle lateral loads like that.
 
I'm less concerned about the heim and more concerned about the mounting point on the brake lever.
 
Armchair engineers on barf, always good for a chuckle.

Super cool project dude, ya got me thinkin of tearing this apart now...

When's it due?
 
Alexey said:
I've run a lot of Attack rearsets on my track bikes and if I remember correctly, the pivot arm that moves the rod extends downward -- this alleviates the foot clearance issues for the Heim joint and also carries the rod generally further away from the foot. Of course it's still possible to touch the rod with the foot if the shifter lever is adjusted very low. For that reason, as I recall, most rearsets offset the pegs outward a bit. Maybe it's not clear from the photos, but are your rearsets putting the pegs right up against the mounting bolts?
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This is my experience with shifters as well. Usually things are offset enough that there isn't an easy way to make contact with the shift rod with your foot or your shifter. Otherwise they have a tendency to bind up. But I'm curious to see how it works in this situation. :thumbup
 
Probably not a big concern, but if you go into 'full production' as you had suggested earlier, you may concider countsunk fasteners for mounting the rear sets so the lever can't get stuck on them!

Like I said, before... cool project!
 
Whisky_Richard said:
Probably not a big concern, but if you go into 'full production' as you had suggested earlier, you may concider countsunk fasteners for mounting the rear sets so the lever can't get stuck on them!

Like I said, before... cool project!
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The only fasteners it gets caught up on at the moment are the ones actually mounting the rear set to the frame, because they're not the right fasteners and they stick WAY out. They're the first bolts I found laying around that were the right thread pattern.

I won't countersink anything because it kills the modular aspect of the rear sets. If I countersink, I need to do the same to both sides, and suddenly I have no material left. Because they're not countersunk, everything is interchangeable between the left and right side of the bike.
 
mllcb42 said:
.....The amazing part about polystyrene foam is that it's soluble in gasoline or acetone. Pour some gas in, let it sit, and all the foam dissolves away....
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lol, we did this in construction a lot. we'd use styrofoam sheets for protection when we set permanent vaults, and fill a hudson sprayer with gasoline!
of course, we couldn't do it when the inspectors were there....
 
mean dad said:
lol, we did this in construction a lot. we'd use styrofoam sheets for protection when we set permanent vaults, and fill a hudson sprayer with gasoline!
of course, we couldn't do it when the inspectors were there....
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I can't imagine doing it on that kind of scale. The sticky residue is a bitch to clean up.
 
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