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Not another Baja ride report…

Awesome trip report.

Question on money. Last time I was in Mexico I was able to use my ATM card in a lot of ATM's so I didn't really have to mess with changing money very much. Did you ever try this?
Also, when I've been to Baja I found lots of folks were totally willing to take my US Dollars to pay for stuff, and sometimes they gave me straight up exchange rates.

That's been my experience as well. For some reason Eldrick brought cash, which is why we were hunting for an exchange. I brought about $400 worth of pesos left over from my last trip to Baja. It lasted me the entire trip, including gas and motel rooms. Had 100 pesos left when we crossed the border back into the US at the end of the trip.
 
awesome! I have been toying around with the idea of riding down. I am down for next ride :D. Great writeup . keep the pics coming!!
 
Awesome trip report.

Question on money. Last time I was in Mexico I was able to use my ATM card in a lot of ATM's so I didn't really have to mess with changing money very much. Did you ever try this?
Also, when I've been to Baja I found lots of folks were totally willing to take my US Dollars to pay for stuff, and sometimes they gave me straight up exchange rates.

We planned to spend a lot of time off road, and in smaller villages on our trip. I didn't want to rely on plastic to get me through as I'd heard that some places will not take as US card. I wanted the best exchange rate I could get, which is why I went to the bank (13.55/1), but since they wouldn't change my dollars I ended up with a lower rate anyway at the exchange (12.5/1). Later I did pay for some item's in US dollars and got an exchange rate of 12/1. So I'm sure it's possible to use an ATM (when they're available) and it's possible to pay with dollars (at a lower rate), but I prefer to exchange my money and pay in the local currency.
 
Day 4 (Part 1)



We started out slow today, after an amazing nights rest, I think I’d finally managed to slow my mind down enough to appreciate my surroundings. An amazing sunset, was followed by a beautiful sunrise. I woke at 6:45am without the use of alarm clock and without swearing profusely. The morning glow of the sun was so nice, there was a hint of a chill in the air, but it was obvious that the day would warm up nicely.





Once I extracted myself from my tent, I couldn’t help but bask in our surroundings. Leo, had the jetboil going, and made himself some coffee. Sometimes I wish I drank coffee, just to sit back and enjoy moments like this one. Since that particular caffeinated beverage is not in my diet, I decided to take some photos of the local wildlife instead.









Some interesting shells on the beach.







It’s amazing to see just how calm the sea of Cortez can be, sometimes not a ripple in sight.





The sound of the local pelicans flapping their wings in the surf was the first to reach my ears this morning. I thought it fitting that I hang out with them a bit and enjoy the sunshine.







Some local fisherman were setting out to find the days catch, and the wake from their little boats caused quite the stir on the water.







 
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Day 4 (Part 2)

Soon the sun reached out across the valley, embracing everything in sight with its warmth.















We both had a bit of maintenance to take care of this morning. A bit of a chain adjustment and an oil level check were in order. Overall the bikes were both holding up very well.





Afterwards, we packed up camp and headed over to the local Mercado for supplies. Lots of water and some sugary snacks were procured and we were ready to get moving. We took some photos with the big green turtle at the store below, but they were on Leo’s camera that went missing…bummer.


The riding was fun in this area, not a lot of sand, but well used road with some sneaky imbedded rocks, and the further away from Gonzaga bay you go, the rockier it gets…still pretty easy going though. Eventually we made our way to Coco’s corner.







The place was well decorated!





Leo liking what he sees.



We helped coco figure out the origin of a strange sound that was emanating from his yard. Turns out some dude who was camping there left a bunch of dogs in a trailer, on a hot day, one of the dogs sounded really bad. Coco opened a window and cracked a door, but he was pretty unhappy about a sick dog being left in one of his trailers. We grabbed a coke each, said our goodbyes to coco and then hit the road towards Bahia de Los Angeles.







 
Day 4 (Part 3)

The dirt road gave way to the pavement above, after a few miles of this we got a bit bored. We decided to take our first shortcut of the trip (dun dun dun....). There was a sand wash from Coco’s that also goes to Bahia de LA, which we were advised NOT to take. “No good for the big bikes”. It was just off to our left as we were putting down the boring highway. At our first chance, we decided to cut over to it. Adventure right…







In these photos the road doesn’t look too bad, mostly because in the bad spots I had no intention of stopping for photos. The road was really fun at first, but as we got further into it, the sand got deeper and deeper. Then came the whoops, first just a few inches deep eventually graduating to bike swallowing size. Then came the mix of the deep sand and the deep whoops, oh joy. At this point, I was leading and could hear Leo’s bike close behind me. At one point, I stopped hearing Leo’s 990R, so I slowed a bit to see if I could see his headlight…no dice. I kept going for a while and when I still didn’t hear him, I decided to pull over.





I dismounted and hiked back up this crazy sand hill I’d just descended, because frankly I did NOT want to have to ride it again. After a short hike, I found Leo righting his bike and beginning to get moving again.





I then hiked back to my bike, hopped on and tried to get back up to speed quickly to keep my bike on top of the deep sand. Only problem was my front went into one sand rut and my rear another. As I got on the gas my front end plowed into the hillside on the left, trapping me between the hill and my bike. At this point, sand was no longer my favorite.



I think Leo heard me crash from where he was because he came plodding back up the hill (on foot) to help get the bike righted. It was wedged pretty good into the hillside, and the tires were in super deep sand, which made it extremely difficult to right. Well, I managed to damage the bike for the first time since buying it! Nothing major, but a broken fender/indicator/mirror, bent bark busters and scratched up tank were the result. I thought the bike looked absolutely hilarious, kinda like it was frowning at me with its now sideways fender. Leo must have thought I was crazy as I busted out laughing. Anyway, I got going again and shortly afterwards the sand caught Leo again. We righted his bike and decided it was time for a food break. We broke out the Powerbars and some water, then sat in what little shade we could find to gather our strength.









After our lunch break we decided to say “FU%K You” to this sand road. It was just too deep, and the weather too hot, and our bikes too heavy for this to be any fun. We followed it a few feet to the left so we could stay on semi-solid ground. In fact, we followed it all the way to the highway, only problem was there was a barbed wire fence between us and the pavement.





Leo walked the fence line in one direction and I walked it in the other. There was no opening in sight in either direction. It went unsaid, but going back the way we’d come was out of the question, so what’s an adventurer to do? Well we opted to gently dismantle the fence, just wide enough so that one of us could stand on the barbed wire to allow the other to ride over it. Leo went first and as he pulled out of the sand to the side of the highway, our two friends from Bend rolled up. I’m sure they were laughing their butts off with me standing there on a fence and all. Leo eventually returned and stood on the fence as I rode over it and parked next to the highway. We then re-assembled the fence exactly as we found it, so no harm done.







We then putted along slowly, enjoying the super smooth, super boring asphalt highway all the way to Bay of LA. We eventually got a room at Costa Del Sol, a great place for the money! We parked the bike, took warm showers, enjoyed the sunset then headed to dinner.





Our friendly neighborhood Bend residents joined us for dinner. We spent a few hours drinking beer, eating some amazing food and swapping stories for the day. This is the happy couple taking off for their evening camp spot. They say the couple that rides together stays together!



Since this was our first wifi connection of the trip, we spent some time e-mailing our wives, then crashed out in a super comfy bed for the night…awesome.
 
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I just saw this (somehow). Great stuff, Eldrick. I would love to tag along next time on my little 690. I haven't been to Baja in a LONG time.
 
That last segment with the sand and the fence had me in tears here at work while I was reading it.

Heck of an adventure!
 
Because the only photos I still have are the random shots from my Contour, I'm not always sure where they were taken. But, I'll do my best.

I think this road was on the way to the dry lake bed Laguna Diablo.


Shot of the dry lake. Driving across it was very surreal - I felt like I was in a movie for some reason. No one else around, totally flat, blue sky. Really cool.



At the end of the lake bed we turned right (east) to head out to the highway and San Felipe, and the road changed dramatically from near-pavement smooth on the lake bed to deep, furrowed sand. Fortunately by the time I came around the corner where Eldrick was stopped there was plenty of room to maneuver, but I still had a hell of time getting stopped and remaining upright. I must have turned the camera off after the lakebed because I have no photos of the sand wash or San Felipe. Of course, I had taken several with my other camera....


Pulling into Coco's Corner



The man himself. There were rumors about Coco being in poor health, but he was getting around pretty well when we were there. My Spanish is not good enough to hold an actual conversation, so I'm not sure how he's really doing, but he sold us a couple of cokes, nailed up our business cards, and checked on the dogs with his ATV. This was probably my 8th trip to Baja, but I've never gone this way before, so I was glad to get the chance to meet Coco. Same thing with Mike at the Sky Ranch. One of these days they will pass into legend.



Typical shot of a fairly sandy section of road. The thing about riding in Baja is you never know what's around the next bend -sand, road washout, a truck barreling at you, a cow. All that plus trying to navigate.




One of my favorite shots. Totally random chance that I got it, since I didn't stop. Washed out section of road with an awesome detour sign.



And here's the cow. Of course, this encounter had to occur on a twisty, pretty narrow section of road with a steep drop off on the right.


So, most of our route was based on a track I found online titled "Baja Norte 7 day big bike loop." However, I made a few modifications to the route and added on a big loop south from Bay of LA (BOLA) over to G Negro. I had shown the road to a couple of people we met on the way down, and they thought it was totally do-able on our bikes. Turned out they were right. A couple of dicey spots, but generally a great ride. It was also long, hot, and exhausting though, so when we hit El Arco (which is close to a ghost town) we got off the dirt and took the gravel road into G negro. In retrospect that was probably a mistake because the gravel road was straight as an arrow (i.e. boring) really rocky, and headed straight into the setting sun. We would have been better off sticking to the dirt.

I think the following shots are along the road from BOLA to El Arco.


 
Thanks for posting the trip. It's always a treat to read barf member ride reports. Amazed you took the big bike into that terrain, but pretty cool.

Glad you (apparently!) made it back safe.
 
I just saw this (somehow). Great stuff, Eldrick. I would love to tag along next time on my little 690. I haven't been to Baja in a LONG time.

Thanks Aaron, we had a great time, I think (won't speak for Leo). You're welcome to ride with me anytime. Heck, I've been quietly thinking about doing this again next year.....:wtf

That last segment with the sand and the fence had me in tears here at work while I was reading it.

Heck of an adventure!

It had me in tears too...only for different reasons. :rofl When you choose adventure, sometimes adventure finds you.

I love the "Fuck Yeah Baja"sign--doesn't that just sum it up?!

Yup! Only thing was, for me anyway (I spaced out behind Leo about a quarter mile to avoid dust, so I didn't see his reaction to the sign) but as I approached it, I rode close to it to see what it said, of course I needed to be as far away from it as possible to avoid the washed out road...:wow

Thanks for posting the trip. It's always a treat to read barf member ride reports. Amazed you took the big bike into that terrain, but pretty cool.

Glad you (apparently!) made it back safe.

You know, these bikes are surprisingly capable. I can't say that I'd recommend taking them into deep sand as they really do not shine there. They do shine in the technical sections and even in the rocky sections...and definitely in the fast sections. :ride
 
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Day 5

Map of Day 5 (Part 1)



I rose at 6:45am this morning, the room was quiet and the town out the door was silent. The sunrise this morning washed everything in sight with a warm golden tone. One can now see why so many northerners escape to Baja in the winter. The world seems all to inviting on mornings like this. Everything seems peaceful and serene. I took a short walk to soak some of it in before our ride.













My 990 needed some attention to repair some of the damage done by our sand riding yesterday, so I headed back to the hotel for some morning wrenching. I’d straightened the bark busters on the trail, but I needed to get the front fender sorted. I was hanging down low and broken on two sides with a strip of functioning plastic in the middle. Having the flapping around could cause problems later. Luckily I had some safety wire, so I used Leo’s knife to punch holes on the sides and safety wired the fender as tightly as I could. Then I went over the bike, checking for anything loose and caught a few bolts trying to make a run for it. Locktite and some wrenches and I was good to go.







We then sat down for a delicious breakfast and mentally prepared for the day ahead. Today was going to be a long one, +/- 140 miles of dirt between here and Gurrero Negro. The route should be a decent mix of dirt two track, rocks with (hopefully very little) sand thrown in. It took us a while to find the correct road out of town, but once we did it was worth it. This is right about where we passed the “Fuck Yeah, Baja” detour sign…awesome.











 
Day 5 (Part 2)

Wide open desert loveliness...











Once we got into the middle of the peninsula, some of these areas were pretty desolate. We passed two cars coming from the fish camp, but other than that we didn’t pass another vehicle the entire time we were off pavement.















We made a quick stop in to the fish camp just to check it out. These guys have great views of the sea, but they are in the middle of nowhere. They have a pretty solemn lifestyle for sure.









We stopped to say hello to the only fish camp resident around, chatted with him for a bit and then pushed on. We’d been riding for quite a while at this point, and were starting to feel a little (mental and physical) fatigue, so we decided it was time for lunch. We stopped at a little convenience store and picked up some of those microwave tacos….JUST KIDDING…there was nothing out here, this was our lunch spot.







 
This is the most wonderful thing to open up on a Sunday morning!
Thanks for the armchair ride :ride

Thump
 
Day 5 (Part 3)

After lunch, we got back on the trail towards G. Negro. At this point the route kept flipping from really rocky to really sandy and back. Controlling your speed and your line are critical. If you went too fast in the rocks bad things happen, and if you went too slow (or too fast) in the sand bad things happen. Anyway, it was a really fun track. Here is Leo clearing the trail…ha ha. Yes, that is a cow up ahead blocking the road. She was just sunning herself on the road but we needed her to move. There was a sharp hillside on the left, and a drop off on the right. We had nowhere to go but forward.







This road seemed to go on forever, but eventually we made our way to El Arco, where we’d hoped to find some gas.









Welcome to El Arco, visible population…1. Number of gas stations…0. Houston we have a problem, Leo’s fuel light is already on, and mine will be on shortly. G Negro is still a long ways off, the next likely place with fuel.





No point in worrying about it I guess, so we hop back on the road towards town/fuel. At this point the road is deep gravel and dead straight, for about 20+ miles. We find a quick rhythm, fast enough to allow the bikes to operate at peak efficiency (fuel savings) but not so fast as to get ourselves in trouble over the blind rises (kamikaze cow avoidance). We get within sight of the highway…no more than a few hundred feet away and…Leo’s bike slows to a stop. D’oh we were out of gas.



Luckily we both have 1.5Gal Kolpins on the back for just such an occasion. We pull them off, empty them into the left tank and burn for G. Negro. After filling up at the local Pemex and finding a room at the Cowboy Hotel, we shower up and head out for some much needed sustenance. Luckily there’s a Taco place right across the street where we have the best Al Pastor tacos I’ve ever tasted. Holy crap this was good. Or maybe it was good because of this.



Naww, these were just awesome Tacos. Compliments to the chef and his little helper who helped clean my feet.





We retired to our room and hit the hay in preparation for the next day’s riding. Today was a good day.
 
Awesome stuff!!!! I almost feel like I am there right now. Cute little kitteh, too. :thumbup

If you do this next year, I would love to talk to you about tagging along. :teeth
 
Story about the fish camp. You can easily find the camp on a map - its the Bahia San Rafael fish camp south of BOLA on the sea of Cortez. Like Eldrick said, the place is a beautiful little cove with a nice sandy beach and maybe three or four little shacks for fisherman. Only one guy was there when we pulled in, and even though my spanish sucks I was able to talk to him a little. Turns out the guy doesn't fish commercially any more. Between the lack of fish (the Sea of Cortez has been overfished for years) and high cost of gas, it just didn't pencil out for him. I guess he just fishes for his dinner now. Pretty sad. I had some great photos of the fish shacks and the fisherman, but, well, you know....
 
Awesome stuff!!!! I almost feel like I am there right now. Cute little kitteh, too. :thumbup

If you do this next year, I would love to talk to you about tagging along. :teeth

So, just this morning as my wife and I were walking down to coffee I said to her:

"You know, there's a part of me that wants to get on my bike and ride right down to Baja again."

"When?" she asks.

"Like, next weekend."

Incredulous, she asks "Are you kidding?"

"Well, I'm not going to do it, but I had such a great time that part of me just wants to go back. I keep thinking that in a day I could be back in Baja."



So, I probably won't go again until next year, but I am planning on returning. Maybe a slightly larger group this time. I figure 4 people max.
 
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