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Digital SLR / DSLR Camera Question / DSLR Thread 2

Can someone please explain to me that my SB600 is extremely versatile and I really don't need to buy a second flash. Sometimes looking at the Strobist stuff is demoralizing because they have a ton (read: $$$) of equipment!

Your SB600 is extremely versatile and you really don't need to buy a second flash.

:twofinger

Maybe a cable and maybe a stand?
 
It will move the flash off the camera...

Unfortunately, the SB-600 doesn't have a PC port, which is what you would need in order to plug in a cable directly from your camera. You'll have to get a $20 hotshoe adapter as well.

I'm pretty sure I mentioned this one drawback of the SB-600 some months ago when you were buying your flash :laughing

Edit: nope, I just found it. I forgot about that part, we were talking about master/slave flashes instead.
 
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It will move the flash off the camera...

Unfortunately, the SB-600 doesn't have a PC port, which is what you would need in order to plug in a cable directly from your camera. You'll have to get a $20 hotshoe adapter as well.

I'm pretty sure I mentioned this one drawback of the SB-600 some months ago when you were buying your flash :laughing

Edit: nope, I just found it. I forgot about that part, we were talking about master/slave flashes instead.

haha, well I can already move the flash off-camera. There's some setting on my D70 that allows the on-camera flash to trigger the SB600 remotely. Maybe all I need is a stand.
 
Damns!! i have been checking the fredmiranda forums, and its crazy how on the canon section most threads are about rants and compliants, while on the Nikon camp, everything seems fine and dandy... crazy contrast!

I have been trying to improve on my photo skillets with the nifty fifty 50 1.8, here are some samples (havent been shooting much):

IMG_3269.JPG


IMG_3274.JPG


On a side note, i've notice when im shooting wide open (1.8) focus seems to get affected by ISO. I noticed the camera was front focusing quite a bit at ISO1600... :confused
 
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On a side note, i've notice when im shooting wide open (1.8) focus seems to get affected by ISO. I noticed the camera was front focusing quite a bit at ISO1600... :confused

Weird...must be a Canon problem. Everything's fine and dandy over here in the Nikon camp. :twofinger

But seriously, I'm going to make a guess here: When you're shooting at high ISO, you're in fairly low light. Low light levels can affect an autofocus system's accuracy, and at F/1.8 even the smallest variations will be readily apparent.
 
Weird...must be a Canon problem. Everything's fine and dandy over here in the Nikon camp. :twofinger

But seriously, I'm going to make a guess here: When you're shooting at high ISO, you're in fairly low light. Low light levels can affect an autofocus system's accuracy, and at F/1.8 even the smallest variations will be readily apparent.

I guess im one of them disgruntled canon owners :laughing I have gotten really good results with my $90 buck lens, but ive started to become a pixel-peeper, and come to notice that lens is somewhat soft. The setup i had when i noticed the front focusing was a small ikea desktop lamp (probably 10W bulb) so yeah, my nerves sometimes get the most out of my pics at slow shutter speeds...

OH yeah... i probably shot try out testing the lens with a tripod to make sure it is not user error
 
I guess im one of them disgruntled canon owners :laughing I have gotten really good results with my $90 buck lens, but ive started to become a pixel-peeper, and come to notice that lens is somewhat soft. The setup i had when i noticed the front focusing was a small ikea desktop lamp (probably 10W bulb) so yeah, my nerves sometimes get the most out of my pics at slow shutter speeds...

OH yeah... i probably shot try out testing the lens with a tripod to make sure it is not user error

dont blame the lens foo:twofinger

I have the nifty fifty and it has its limitations. Just be a pimp and get a 17-55mm 2.8:cool

taken with the nifty fifty
3312081284_2a2ea05a53_b.jpg
 
Two quick questions about tripods:

1) Everyone talks about investing in a "good" tripod, not a cheap tripod. I'm not doing video so what difference does it really make as long as it is sturdy? I notice some of them have little levels in them. Other than that it seems like anything will work.

2) Do you need special tripods for speedlights or is it all the same?
 
I had a tripod that felt sturdy (a Velbon somethingorother) but when I actually looked closely at pictures shot on it, there was always something a bit soft about them. I ended up spending about $300 total on a Manfrotto nearly identical to the one pictured above, and a good solid ball head. It's aluminum, and heavy, but it's as solid as a CF one for twice the cost. CF gets you lighter weight, better vibration damping, and bling factor. :cool

For speedlights, you don't want a tripod. You want a lightstand. Really cheap ones run $20-$30, and anything over about $100 and you're either showing off, or shopping poorly. :laughing

I have two stands, an eight foot one and a 13 foot one. I vastly prefer the bigger one, it's far more stable at eight feet and the extra reach has saved many shots for me.
 
Awesome, thanks. I'll be on the lookout for these "light stands" you speak of. :D

I was browsing Flickr strobist stuff and came across this guy's work:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/98609590@N00/

Really great stuff, I think. What's better is, in many cases, he shows you exactly how he set the scene up, including video!

As an example, check out this photo:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/98609590@N00/1399861928/in/photostream/

Here's the video of the setup:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=sqMI72jsXRQ

It was done with only one speedlight on a light stand! I'm sooo buying a light stand now. Clearly there's more versatility with just one speedlight than a noob like me can take advantage of... I am left wondering however, in a scene like the one above, can I use my on-camera flash to trigger the remote SB600 or is the ambient light just too powerful?
 
Bert's awesome, he's been featured on Strobist a couple of times.

Regarding triggering the strobe with your built-in flash, the answer is sometimes. It depends on a lot of things, and isn't really very predictable. Inside is definitely better than outside.
 
Weird on the high ISO auto-focusing issue. I saw that earlier and shot a few to check it out and may have figured some stuff out. (I'll post up about that tomorrow.)

Here's updated info about those cheap light stands: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4750768&postcount=673. If you buy from them *definitely* get the bigger one. I bought a big one and a small one and the small one is only good if you *need* the most portability. I also have a Bogen that is a real work horse in comparison.

On tripods, also don't skimp on your head. With my smaller tripod -- also much like that one ^^ -- I thought the motion I was getting in some wind was from the tripod flexing (shooting 200 - 340 mm). I spent a good week figuring out that it was my head that was twisting.

FWIW, if anyone's looking for a tabletop tripod (note that the extension tube is removable) this kit is great:



And... here's another web page I put together a while ago about using an External Display with a DSLR. In addition to using it for remote display it's also useful if you want to show a bunch of people photos you just took.
 
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So i tested out again the same setup i mentioned (ISO1600, desk lamp, f1.8) but with a tripod this time, and here is what i got

Focus on The R

IMG_3404.JPG


So yeah... its was all user error in previous pics :p Also, and important thing i found out. In order to get good focus, there needs to be good contrast, and "defined edges" to focus on

Storm Shadow, you show off!! I wasnt really trying when i took my pic of the Thai Ice tea, that is my story and im sticking to it :x
 
danc79, I don't think it necessarily has to be user error. I shot a few to see if I could replicate the problem with my D200 and it looks like I can. I've put up my shots here, all are center focus and defocused between shots. I hope those are large enough to see the detail.

For the first four shots I couldn't easily get it to focus on the same distance, so I had to re-auto-focus it a few times. For the second four I recomposed to make it easier for it to focus and it was better, but still not at the same distance every time. For the last eight I got closer so focusing differences would be more apparent; it also made it much more consistent. For the last four I switched to manual exposure after I noticed that the shutter speeds weren't being consistent.

Anybody know how autofocusing really works? I don't.

I guess it's finding the highlights in the focus area and adjusting the focus so that the image is as resolved / fine on the sensor as possible. I think there's a couple of things happening: 1) higher speed means less definition so it's harder to focus and 2) the lightness of some areas change and details that can be focused on change.

The other thing I found out was that apparently my camera's white balance changes at different speeds. Not much but I'm seeing a difference.
 
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danc79, I don't think it's necessarily has to be user error. I shot a few to see if I could replicate the problem with my D200 and it looks like I can. I've put up my shots here, all are center focus and defocused between shots. I hope those are large enough to see the detail.

For the first four shots I couldn't easily get it to focus on the same distance, so I had to re-auto-focus it a few times. For the second four I recomposed to make it easier for it to focus and it was better, but still not at the same distance every time. For the last eight I got closer so focusing differences would be more apparent; it also made it much more consistent. For the last four I switched to manual exposure after I noticed that the shutter speeds weren't being consistent.

Anybody know how autofocusing really works? I don't.

magic...
 
LOL Thanks. :fingersniff

<ETA>

:wow WOAH! WTF? They're detecting the *phase* of my friendly photons? OMG!
 
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danc79, I don't think it's necessarily has to be user error. I shot a few to see if I could replicate the problem with my D200 and it looks like I can. I've put up my shots here, all are center focus and defocused between shots. I hope those are large enough to see the detail.

For the first four shots I couldn't easily get it to focus on the same distance, so I had to re-auto-focus it a few times. For the second four I recomposed to make it easier for it to focus and it was better, but still not at the same distance every time. For the last eight I got closer so focusing differences would be more apparent; it also made it much more consistent. For the last four I switched to manual exposure after I noticed that the shutter speeds weren't being consistent..

In your pics, the one at ISO1600 with the helmet definetely looks much softer, while the A* logo ones look spot on... Thanks for your time in investigating the situation
 
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