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Do You Road Bike?

What kinda dickhead dips spokes in Red Loctite? Turn the nipple and the spoke just twists and shears itself in half. Now we gotta replace 20 perfectly good spokes!!! Probably 16 more in the front next week!!
Tried all sortsa solvent goop and nuthin! Dickheads!
 
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theAmazingKickstand said:
What kinda dickhead dips spokes in Red Loctite? Turn the nipple and the spoke just twists and shears itself in half. Now we gotta replace 20 perfectly good spokes!!! Probably 16 more in the front next week!!
Tried all sortsa solvent goop and nuthin! Dickheads!
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wow seriously? :laughing I didn't even put red loctite on my motorcycle brake caliper bolts.
 
damartian said:
Any one got a set of 10 speed shifters they want to sell? (shimano 105)?
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I have brand new Dura Ace 7900, used but in excellent shape Sram Red, and used but in good shape Ultegra SL. No crashes or drops on the used stuff.
I've got the complete brand new DA group minus calipers and cranks. The more junk you buy the better the deal!
You ain't gonna impress other men with 105 shifters.
 
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DT Swiss FTMFW!!!

I've got a super fancy ass wheel set but the rear rim tore itself in half a while back. Finally got around to doing something with it and DT Swiss will send me a new one. No receipts, no going back to the bike store, no BS at all. That's how you reel in and keep lifetime customers. (But these are famous for shredding themselves. I'm totally not the first.)
 
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i thought red loctite breaks w/heat? might destroy the rim along w/the spoke but hey....
 
i went on my first real 20mile ride today on my fuji. a couple of impressions it left on me:

having such a light bike, it makes the front end feel very squirelly. much more wobbly than my heavy ass schwinn and i assume that most carbon frames feel this way when compared to steel frames. it just likes to tip into turns much quicker. feels great at full speed.

my old schwinn bred bad habits in me. it had so much pedal clearance that it didnt matter if i had my inside pedal down in a turn. on the fuji, that is downright dangerous. i guess its just my habit of wanting to put the inside foot weight as low as possible, like when riding a motorcycle. easily broken habit but still kind of stupid of me.

all in all i love my bike. it has made riding easier and given me no excuse for my poor performance. my goal for the rest of this month is to ride 100 miles a week (20mi a day on the weekdays)
 
kelsodeez said:
i went on my first real 20mile ride today on my fuji. a couple of impressions it left on me:

having such a light bike, it makes the front end feel very squirelly. much more wobbly than my heavy ass schwinn and i assume that most carbon frames feel this way when compared to steel frames. it just likes to tip into turns much quicker. feels great at full speed.

my old schwinn bred bad habits in me. it had so much pedal clearance that it didnt matter if i had my inside pedal down in a turn. on the fuji, that is downright dangerous. i guess its just my habit of wanting to put the inside foot weight as low as possible, like when riding a motorcycle. easily broken habit but still kind of stupid of me.

all in all i love my bike. it has made riding easier and given me no excuse for my poor performance. my goal for the rest of this month is to ride 100 miles a week (20mi a day on the weekdays)
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It's more to do with the geometry of the bike than the material of the frame or weight. A R6 is going to fall into corners a lot faster than a harley would. They make less race oriented carbon frames and those probably would feel more stable to you.

I was coming down Old Santa Cruz Hwy last week and going through the last hairpin turn and though to myself "I have speedplays, they always say they have the best ground clearance of any pedal.. I can pedal through this turn. Striking my shoe or pedal or whatever I hit was kind of unnerving going through that turn at a good clip. :laughing
 
i wouldnt say its such a problem that i need to start looking for another bike, i just need some time to adjust and adapt.

also trying to dodge small rocks on sawyer camp trail is a pain in the ass. oh and there were construction trucks on the trail all day haha. kind of defeated the purpose of riding on trails to avoid cars.
 
aram said:
It's more to do with the geometry of the bike than the material of the frame or weight. A R6 is going to fall into corners a lot faster than a harley would. They make less race oriented carbon frames and those probably would feel more stable to you.

I was coming down Old Santa Cruz Hwy last week and going through the last hairpin turn and though to myself "I have speedplays, they always say they have the best ground clearance of any pedal.. I can pedal through this turn. Striking my shoe or pedal or whatever I hit was kind of unnerving going through that turn at a good clip. :laughing
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Oh the crashes and saves I have seen (and experienced) because of that. :laughing
 
kelsodeez said:
having such a light bike, it makes the front end feel very squirelly.)
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It's not due to weight.
Check and adjust your headset. No foolin, like 80% of the "OMG MY $$$$$$$ BIKE IS A POS DEATH TRAP THAT DOESN'T"T TURN AND WOBBLES AND HAS TANK SLAPPERS AND I HATE TAIWAN!!!!!" was do to them messing with headset or ignoring it for a year. Wheel hubs too. You wanna sit on the bike correctly and have it set up right....especially on down hill sweepers. A short stem+bars will make for a twitchier bike than long.
I always completely take apart and re-assemble any bike or bike part I get new or used. Hubs and headsets and checking frame straightness and bla bla bla...The whole deal. You should do the same.

:laughingAt the Speedplay kool-aid drinkers outside.
"Umm brah stay away from me when you do that shit cuz your shoe's gonna hit the ground at about the same time regardless of pedal choice."
"Why are you such an asshole? I read in the their brochure that I could do this!!!"
 
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Roadstergal said:
Inside pedal up!

Sawyer Camp would be great fun if it weren't for all the other users.
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you just have to go in the daytime on a weekday if you can. when i went yesterday, the only people out there were old dudes riding beach cruisers with iggy pop muscles and hot milfs brisk walking.
 
So got a question......

I signed up for this napa ride awhile ago...long story short I havent trained for it at all. Looking at the route it says 68.3 miles with 4k of elevation.

I was thinking of going ahead and doing the 30 mile ride with 2k of elevation.

Now here lies my problem. I feel like Im pussing out doing the 30mile ride mainly because I know I can do 30miles. Granted Im slow but Im not trying to win a race.

They sent us a map of the route for each ride. 30 65 (68.3) and 100. Can someone take a look at it and tell me what am I really looking at if I want to do the 65 mile ride? At the top it says 4+k elevation but by looking at the map it looks like the tallest climb is at 18XX. Would I be asking too much of myslef attempting to do the 65mile. and if possible could anyone give me some sort of comparison on what an 18XX climb looks like or would be like? (thats me guessing thats the hardest climb) Can anyone also look at that map and tell me what the tallest grade is?
Thanks!

-sincerely The Noob.

http://www.eaglecyclingclub.org/map65.html
 
In addition to the elusive pristine Record 10 shifters I'm also looking for a DA 7900 175mm 53/39 crank. I can buy or trade +/- cash for brand new never used FSA SLK light bb30 crank. It's got really pretty carbon and brand new and light and all that good stuff like on their website.

I've got 2 used BB30 bearings and clips anyone is welcome to. You need two new seals cuz I took em out with a big screw driver and hammer but the bearings are still good. A bike shop will probably just give you the seals.

Kim just try to ride 70 miles this Saturday. You'll get your answer.
 
theAmazingKickstand said:
In addition to the elusive pristine Record 10 shifters I'm also looking for a DA 7900 175mm 53/39 crank. I can buy or trade +/- cash for brand new never used FSA SLK light bb30 crank. It's got really pretty carbon and brand new and light and all that good stuff like on their website.

I've got 2 used BB30 bearings and clips anyone is welcome to. You need two new seals cuz I took em out with a big screw driver and hammer but the bearings are still good. A bike shop will probably just give you the seals.

Kim just try to ride 70 miles this Saturday. You'll get your answer.
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Thanks for a not helpful answer :laughing

I need to know what Im getting myself into before hand.
 
Kim said:
Would I be asking too much of myslef attempting to do the 65mile
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Everyone is different and everyone reacts differently to a physical challenge like that. It's ultimately going to have to be your call.

Do they have SAG support to pick you up if you try the 65 and it's too much? Would you respond better, motivation-wise, to challenging yourself and perhaps not making it, running up against your limits and trying to force yourself over them - or doing a ride you know you can do and attacking it with a will? You'll have to decide.

Looking at the climb you're pointing out, it looks like it stays under 10% for all but one little bit at the end, which isn't bad. Maybe comparable-ish to Kings Mountain?
 
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