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So, Dave Ramsey....on car buying....

If I wanted a 10k mattress I'd have bought it with a card, got my 2-5% , and paid the card off immediately. The problem is still that I paid 10k for a mattress.

I’ll have you know that they sent me a card. Wells Fargo NA/Tempur Pedic. Of course if I miss a payment the interest immediately becomes 29%. So I’m just auto paying the minimum. Already did the first one of $168. And I’ve still got the rest of the $9900 balance working for me elsewhere
 
Who says you lazy assholes can sleep? My financial guy says you can't sleep until you have made your first $500K and are no longer are paying rent. Slackers. :x

Tell your guy I can sleep juuuuuust fine then.
 
Who says you lazy assholes can sleep? My financial guy says you can't sleep until you have made your first $500K and are no longer are paying rent. Slackers. :x

:hand I opened a side business LLC as a sleeping consultant so I bill myself for my sleeping time as reasearch, pay myself, AND all my sleep is a business expense I can write off. :x
 
Have the same mattress for 11 years. Still comfortable

You’d be amazed at what a 3 or 4” memory foam topper can do. Changed my old POs bed into something pretty good and my morning back stiffness is gone. Good enough for me.
 
You’d be amazed at what a 3 or 4” memory foam topper can do. Changed my old POs bed into something pretty good and my morning back stiffness is gone. Good enough for me.

Which one do you use? I tried one just to see, but it was pretty cheap. Still had shoulder pain so I ended up replacing the whole mattress and that solved it.
 
Roth IRA contributions (what you put in) are after tax, so there is no penalty for early withdraw of your contributions.
This slipped by initially, but this is not true, there are penalties for withdrawing from a Roth IRA before age 59 and a half, outside of for specific purchases, also, if your Roth has not been established for at least 5 years, you do not get the tax benefits from it.
If you have a 0% loan, you probably are paying interest built into the price of the good. Look for the cash discount offer. It's just making the fat bankers fatter.

The company selling the car is not charity and they can put their money in the market too.

This is probably another reason why cars depreciate so fast. They were never worth that much in the first place.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KGPu0jPryfU

0% loans generally are not for cars, they are for things like computers or furniture, expensive items, but not at the level of a car or a house. Companies do it to increase sales because a lump sum payment of over $1000 often pushes away some potential customers. (They also write the agreements to be very punitive if you miss a payment) Maybe you can find some instances where you benefit from a lower cost paying in full immediately, but the general rule is that the cost is the same regardless.

On car loans, this is more inaccurate. Most dealerships want to push you to financing because they actually sell their own financing products now. They benefit from it. Getting them to make you a deal, if they know you are paying cash, is more difficult. That doesn't mean you shouldn't pay cash if you can, but you should negotiate price letting them assume you will be using their financial services, and only when you get an out the door price that you are happy with let them know either that you are paying cash, or have arranged financing separately through a bank.
 
You’d be amazed at what a 3 or 4” memory foam topper can do. Changed my old POs bed into something pretty good and my morning back stiffness is gone. Good enough for me.

I'm just the opposite. I actually just bought a mattress too. ($1800 #notasballerasrob)

Memory foam and I do not agree. A "firm" mattress with a 3" memory foam topper just didn't work for me. I switched to an "extra firm" non topped mattress and now I'm happy. I nick named my new mattress "Planky" and am quite happy with it.
 
:hand I opened a side business LLC as a sleeping consultant so I bill myself for my sleeping time as reasearch, pay myself, AND all my sleep is a business expense I can write off. :x

That's some 4D level chess, man.

I'm learning so much in this thread. Without you guys, I'd probably end up as a an elderly big box store greeter.

"Welcome to Costco. I love you."
 
I'm also an extra firm guy. Springs, get that foam shit outa here

This means you won’t be going my way since Tempur-Pedic is very much foam.

My boss has one of those Sleep-Number setups with a super fancy base like mine. Their spring system is not coils either, but it’s pretty much a fancy air mattress.
 
That's some 4D level chess, man.

I'm learning so much in this thread. Without you guys, I'd probably end up as a an elderly big box store greeter.

"Welcome to Costco. I love you."

The hard part is trying to guess who's actually financially "successful" and how you personally measure that. Everyone's an expert on the internet. Spend less than you make and you'll probably be okay.
 
This slipped by initially, but this is not true, there are penalties for withdrawing from a Roth IRA before age 59 and a half, outside of for specific purchases, also, if your Roth has not been established for at least 5 years, you do not get the tax benefits from it.


0% loans generally are not for cars, they are for things like computers or furniture, expensive items, but not at the level of a car or a house. Companies do it to increase sales because a lump sum payment of over $1000 often pushes away some potential customers. (They also write the agreements to be very punitive if you miss a payment) Maybe you can find some instances where you benefit from a lower cost paying in full immediately, but the general rule is that the cost is the same regardless.

On car loans, this is more inaccurate. Most dealerships want to push you to financing because they actually sell their own financing products now. They benefit from it. Getting them to make you a deal, if they know you are paying cash, is more difficult. That doesn't mean you shouldn't pay cash if you can, but you should negotiate price letting them assume you will be using their financial services, and only when you get an out the door price that you are happy with let them know either that you are paying cash, or have arranged financing separately through a bank.

Here is a good source for the Roth IRA:

a Roth IRA early withdrawal stand out: Because these accounts are funded with after-tax dollars, you’re free to pull out contributions at any time.
https://www.nerdwallet.com/article/investing/roth-ira-early-withdrawals

If you put in $10 and it grows to $20 into a ROTH, you can take out the $10 you contributed. Since you are using after tax money for a ROTH.

You can borrow and pay back 401K. Im not sure the rules. Traditional IRA there are penalties and taxes since if you are in the income limits, you probably got a tax write off for contributing to a Traditional IRA.

Car loans may have a discount interest rate or 'dont pay for XX months'. All of these you pay for in the purchase of the car. Sounds better than it is.
 
Right
So the average consumer will pay more for something when the cost to borrow money is cheap. So yes, your 10,000 mattress can be had now for 0 down and paid in full in 2030 for 10,000 (inflation adjusted). It's still a $10,000 mattress though.

Iirc Dave's reasoning for the pay cash is the mental resistance to overpaying for something is much stronger with cash. Imagine taking out 10k from the atm and going into a mattress place and doing that transaction lol. With cash you're actually handing something over and receiving something in return. With a card you have them a card and they hand you the card and the item back. Hell most places the card doesn't even leave your hand anymore. Obviously we're past math here and into psychology but the end result is you with less money.

Yes I use credit cards, yes I agree with Dave's assessment that they're in general a bad idea.

If I wanted a 10k mattress I'd have bought it with a card, got my 2-5% , and paid the card off immediately. The problem is still that I paid 10k for a mattress.


Here is a good example https://www.truecar.com/prices-new/nissan/titan-pricing/
Nissan Titan with 'special financing' -- $45,223 (market average)
Nissan Titan with cash $41,223 (click on cash incentives)

Got to watch the video, it's not a $10,000 Mattress with 'special financing'. Financing is renting money. No one is giving free rent.
 
Here is a good example https://www.truecar.com/prices-new/nissan/titan-pricing/
Nissan Titan with 'special financing' -- $45,223 (market average)
Nissan Titan with cash $41,223 (click on cash incentives)

Got to watch the video, it's not a $10,000 Mattress with 'special financing'. Financing is renting money. No one is giving free rent.

But a 45000 investment in blah blah would have returned me... - barfer

Lol, okay
Math is fine, planning for the unexpected is fine too
 
Here is a good source for the Roth IRA:

https://www.nerdwallet.com/article/investing/roth-ira-early-withdrawals

If you put in $10 and it grows to $20 into a ROTH, you can take out the $10 you contributed. Since you are using after tax money for a ROTH.

You can borrow and pay back 401K. Im not sure the rules. Traditional IRA there are penalties and taxes since if you are in the income limits, you probably got a tax write off for contributing to a Traditional IRA.

Car loans may have a discount interest rate or 'dont pay for XX months'. All of these you pay for in the purchase of the car. Sounds better than it is.

No argument that the loans offered by car dealerships usually have bad terms, as I said, you should secure payment elsewhere. Cars are still purchased via bargaining about the cost, equipment, and everything else. If the salesperson believes that you will be using their financing, you often will be able to negotiate a better deal, because they believe they will get the money back on the other end. People should negotiate without talking about the financing side, allowing salespeople to assume that you will use the dealerships financing, and get a final out the door cost that is agreeable in writing before letting them know how you will be paying. It's absolutely better to secure a loan from a trusted financier separate from the dealership, or, for the rare people that can afford to, pay cash.

Also, on the Roth IRA thing, this is a difference without a distinction, especially given what we were talking about. The point is that the difficulty of pulling money out of a retirement account is a valid reason to suggest someone who does not necessarily have a stable job should pay down a low interest debt aggressively instead of putting that money in a Roth IRA or similar. The reason that Dave Ramsey gave; a vague reference to the beta of an investment; is really dumb.
 
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:hand I opened a side business LLC as a sleeping consultant so I bill myself for my sleeping time as reasearch, pay myself, AND all my sleep is a business expense I can write off. :x

Mike%20Lindell%202


Here is a good example https://www.truecar.com/prices-new/nissan/titan-pricing/
Nissan Titan with 'special financing' -- $45,223 (market average)
Nissan Titan with cash $41,223 (click on cash incentives)

Got to watch the video, it's not a $10,000 Mattress with 'special financing'. Financing is renting money. No one is giving free rent.

8.8% savings VS CPI @2.2% @ 5 years. I'd have to run the complete calc, but of the cuff it looks like a wash in savings almost. The $4K advantage is wiped out in about 64 months. Don't forget; the "asset" side of debt (especially @ 0%) is the repayment of current dollars with future dollars.
 
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