-
There has been a recent cluster of spammers accessing BARFer accounts and posting spam. To safeguard your account, please consider changing your password. It would be even better to take the additional step of enabling 2 Factor Authentication (2FA) on your BARF account. Read more here.
SV Carbon Tank project for Zoran
- Thread starter tygaboy
- Start date
MackeyStingray
New member
we need to have a seminar on making SV tanks, hangers, bodywork (+ repair), mounting brackets, run the whole gammut 
actually anyone try making CF pegs or rearsets? figured if they can make CF wheels, it's strong enough to be weighed down by a std. rider. or just not really cost effective cause of the labor involved? or should i go at it w/ some scraps of 2x4??
actually anyone try making CF pegs or rearsets? figured if they can make CF wheels, it's strong enough to be weighed down by a std. rider. or just not really cost effective cause of the labor involved? or should i go at it w/ some scraps of 2x4??
scratchpad
Active member
eisenfaust
WHARRGARBL
MackeyStingray said:
actually anyone try making CF pegs or rearsets? figured if they can make CF wheels, it's strong enough to be weighed down by a std. rider. or just not really cost effective cause of the labor involved? or should i go at it w/ some scraps of 2x4??
I imagine you could make the brackets without too much difficulty, however, a few complications arise.
First off, on the SV bracket, left-hand side, the pivot rod for the shift lever is a seperate part that screws into the bracket. You'd need a machined insert into the CF bracket for this to work. The same goes for the mounting hardware for the footpeg itself.
You also probably would not want CF foot pegs. I guess if you just made a 1/2" thick sandwich of carbon and kevlar, it could work, but the mounting hardware would still have to be metal, and again, you'd probably need machined inserts. Plus, you cant really put knurling on a composite part, and a rubber sleeve would just suck.
I imagine it would be do-able, but SUPER expensive for a savings in weight of a few ounces, no benifit to handling or anything, and besides, footpegs break a lot in crashes.
I think metal is probably the best thing for footpegs.
A carbon-kevlar subframe would be a cool idea, as would a CF fairing stay, or maybe even a super-thin CF airbox (though I dont know if race SVs retain the airbox or not).
Focus, people, focus. This is a thread about a carbon SV tank. 
Let's start another to talk general composite stuff...
OK, to answer some questions:
1. My wife keeps me from over extending: "HEY! It's 1:00 in the morning...what are you still doing in the garage?!?"
2. The 2nd Gen SV tanks are not as straight forward as the early model due to the integrated fuel pump. Still do-able, just more steps involved. If anyone has a donor tank, let me know and we can take a look...
3. No plans and not currently interested in doing a 636 tank, sorry. Although...a buddy did just get a 636 so if he was interested...maybe. But nothing I'm likely to do anytime soon. (Haven't I convinced you to give this a go on your own?)
4. I'm hardly a master at this - more like a hacker who's willing to practice. Hey, that sounds a lot like my track day riding...
That said, if there was anyone who wanted to 'apprentice' on this tank project and be here to help me and get some hands-on experience doing some of the work, that would be cool. But you'd have to be serious, show up on time, etc. Contact me at chris.b.baker@kp.org if you're REALLY serious and we can see what might be possible. I do essentially all of my composite work on the weekends, usually in the afternoon.
5. I'm looking to schedule the "Composite Party" and assume a weekend would be best for everyone. Or maybe some time during the week between Christmas and New Years as I have a bit of time then. The real issue is I'd want to get one or more big tables and set up work stations for everyone so you could each work on your own part (likely an exhaust hanger) at the same time. I figure I can handle about 6 people so if more than that are interested, I'll have to look at more than 1 event. As much as I enjoy this sort of thing, I can't do many of these.
So I'm going to start another post on the Composite Party and work the details in seperate thread.
As far as this tank project goes, I hope to make the splitter plate and get at least 1/2 the top splash mold done this weekend. Pics as I make progress...
Let's start another to talk general composite stuff...
OK, to answer some questions:
1. My wife keeps me from over extending: "HEY! It's 1:00 in the morning...what are you still doing in the garage?!?"
2. The 2nd Gen SV tanks are not as straight forward as the early model due to the integrated fuel pump. Still do-able, just more steps involved. If anyone has a donor tank, let me know and we can take a look...
3. No plans and not currently interested in doing a 636 tank, sorry. Although...a buddy did just get a 636 so if he was interested...maybe. But nothing I'm likely to do anytime soon. (Haven't I convinced you to give this a go on your own?)
4. I'm hardly a master at this - more like a hacker who's willing to practice. Hey, that sounds a lot like my track day riding...
That said, if there was anyone who wanted to 'apprentice' on this tank project and be here to help me and get some hands-on experience doing some of the work, that would be cool. But you'd have to be serious, show up on time, etc. Contact me at chris.b.baker@kp.org if you're REALLY serious and we can see what might be possible. I do essentially all of my composite work on the weekends, usually in the afternoon.
5. I'm looking to schedule the "Composite Party" and assume a weekend would be best for everyone. Or maybe some time during the week between Christmas and New Years as I have a bit of time then. The real issue is I'd want to get one or more big tables and set up work stations for everyone so you could each work on your own part (likely an exhaust hanger) at the same time. I figure I can handle about 6 people so if more than that are interested, I'll have to look at more than 1 event. As much as I enjoy this sort of thing, I can't do many of these.
So I'm going to start another post on the Composite Party and work the details in seperate thread.
As far as this tank project goes, I hope to make the splitter plate and get at least 1/2 the top splash mold done this weekend. Pics as I make progress...
drizz
it's monkey madness!
*heads over to composite party thread* 
I also have one that i dont need,beat up to much.jonb said:i've got a 2nd gen sv tank i can donate if you want...
I also have fuel pump flange already cut out from another tank.
Chris,if you want this stuff i will ship it to you.or bring down on Jan 2nd.
Cameltoehunter
New member
Just great..... like I don't have enough work on my plate right now
Now you've got me bidding on a rashed GSXR tank...
After spending the last 2 hours looking through
http://www.fibreglast.com/phpBB2/index.php
I have GOT to give this a try..
Great looking piece you have there.
Now you've got me bidding on a rashed GSXR tank...
After spending the last 2 hours looking through
http://www.fibreglast.com/phpBB2/index.php
I have GOT to give this a try..
Great looking piece you have there.
Splitter plate fab
Thought I'd start the splitter plate today. The splitter serves as a temporary fixture that allows me to create 1/2 the top mold with the flange that's necessary when making a two-piece mold - the mold has to be able to be bolted together for final lay up then I have to be able to split the mold in order to get the mold off the final part - or off this donor tank.
I start by building a construction paper template, the shape of which will be transfered onto that laminate covered particle board you can get at the local hardware store.
Use a jigsaw to cut out the shape and there you go! Here's the paper template in place.
Thought I'd start the splitter plate today. The splitter serves as a temporary fixture that allows me to create 1/2 the top mold with the flange that's necessary when making a two-piece mold - the mold has to be able to be bolted together for final lay up then I have to be able to split the mold in order to get the mold off the final part - or off this donor tank.
I start by building a construction paper template, the shape of which will be transfered onto that laminate covered particle board you can get at the local hardware store.
Use a jigsaw to cut out the shape and there you go! Here's the paper template in place.
Last edited:
And here's what it will end up like. This is the splitter plate on my SV/MV tank plug. I just pulled it out for this pic. I'll post pics of the detail creation of the splitter for the project tank as I get to it - hopefully, this weekend I'll finish the splitter, get it mounted and layup the first 1/2 of the top mold.
Last edited:
Turns out I found time to do some more work. First, I drew a centerline down the tank as a reference point. Then I put down a layer of lightweight packing tape that is offset such that one edge of the tapeline sits right on the centerline of the tank. The tape will server as protection under the splitter plate.
Since I need to narrow the tank anyway, I'll wait and fix the damage you see on this doner tank when I do final body work on the plug. I'll also deal with the gas cap area then, too.
Since I need to narrow the tank anyway, I'll wait and fix the damage you see on this doner tank when I do final body work on the plug. I'll also deal with the gas cap area then, too.
I'm not going to bother posting pics of fabricating the splitter plate. All I did was transfer the construction paper template onto the fiberboard and try to do a resonable jigsaw job of cutting the shape.
The splitter plate doesn't need to be an exact fit to the tank - and you're about to see why:
I run a large bead of bondo down the tape and press the splitter plate into it. The bondo fills up any minor imperfections in my jigsaw work. Once it sets up, I have a perfect fit. Quick, simple and effective.
Here the splitter plate right after it was pressed into the bondo.
The splitter plate doesn't need to be an exact fit to the tank - and you're about to see why:
I run a large bead of bondo down the tape and press the splitter plate into it. The bondo fills up any minor imperfections in my jigsaw work. Once it sets up, I have a perfect fit. Quick, simple and effective.
Here the splitter plate right after it was pressed into the bondo.
Last edited:
It's important not to let the bondo cure fully as it would be near impossible to get a clean edge at the splitter plate - tank joint.
So, I keep a close eye on it and as soon as it's firm enough to be cut cleanly with a razor blade, I trim down the edge of the splitter plate and peel away the excess bondo.
Look closely and you can the thickness of the bondo between the tank and the splitter. Some visible in some places (rear of the tank) and almost none in others. This is so much easier (for me) than spending time trying to make a perfect template and cut a perfect splitter. This technique also has another BIG benefit: It secures the splitter plate to the tank strongly enough that I can do the lay up without any additional fixturing. If the splitter was a perfect fit, I'd have to find a way to secure it to the tank. Remember, I'm after a complete seal and sharp 90 degree edge between the tank and splitter as when I pull the splitter, the fiberglass that is laid up against it will serve as the flange edge and the split line for the other side of the top mold.
Anyway, Ta-Da! All set for a wax, PVA and layup.
So, I keep a close eye on it and as soon as it's firm enough to be cut cleanly with a razor blade, I trim down the edge of the splitter plate and peel away the excess bondo.
Look closely and you can the thickness of the bondo between the tank and the splitter. Some visible in some places (rear of the tank) and almost none in others. This is so much easier (for me) than spending time trying to make a perfect template and cut a perfect splitter. This technique also has another BIG benefit: It secures the splitter plate to the tank strongly enough that I can do the lay up without any additional fixturing. If the splitter was a perfect fit, I'd have to find a way to secure it to the tank. Remember, I'm after a complete seal and sharp 90 degree edge between the tank and splitter as when I pull the splitter, the fiberglass that is laid up against it will serve as the flange edge and the split line for the other side of the top mold.
Anyway, Ta-Da! All set for a wax, PVA and layup.
Last edited:
drizz
it's monkey madness!
Great work once again. I have a feeling this thread will stick around for a LONG time.
Looking forward to the next step
Just like prepping any part for layup, it's time to wax with the Partall and buff clean then apply the PVA. Let it dry - this took a while as it was pretty cold and damp up here today.
A word about that, while we're at it. I would not be making a final part in these conditions. I expect to have to build a 'hot room' in order to finish this project in the next few weeks. It'll be maybe 10x10 and heated with something suitable to about 70+ degrees. All the build materials will be in this room. The epoxy flows better and bondo doesn't expand/contract, the air will be drier...it's just better all around. But for this rough fab stuff? I've found it's no big deal. That said, once I have the hot room, I'll do all the work in it - hey, why not?
So anyway, I went ahead and did the layup. I have to say, I'm pleased with how fast this is going (knock wood!).
Remember, once I make the top part, I have to bond it to the bottom to make the initial plug. Then I get to narrow the tank, do paint-ready quality bodywork and START THE PROCESS ALL OVER AGAIN: make a two-piece, splitter plate based top mold, a new bottom mold and THEN make the actual tank...
But hey, it's all for Zoran so, I mean, it's worth it, right?
At any rate, here's the first 1/2 of the top splash mold in cure state.
Time invested to date: ~8 hours.
A word about that, while we're at it. I would not be making a final part in these conditions. I expect to have to build a 'hot room' in order to finish this project in the next few weeks. It'll be maybe 10x10 and heated with something suitable to about 70+ degrees. All the build materials will be in this room. The epoxy flows better and bondo doesn't expand/contract, the air will be drier...it's just better all around. But for this rough fab stuff? I've found it's no big deal. That said, once I have the hot room, I'll do all the work in it - hey, why not?
So anyway, I went ahead and did the layup. I have to say, I'm pleased with how fast this is going (knock wood!).
Remember, once I make the top part, I have to bond it to the bottom to make the initial plug. Then I get to narrow the tank, do paint-ready quality bodywork and START THE PROCESS ALL OVER AGAIN: make a two-piece, splitter plate based top mold, a new bottom mold and THEN make the actual tank...
But hey, it's all for Zoran so, I mean, it's worth it, right?
At any rate, here's the first 1/2 of the top splash mold in cure state.
Time invested to date: ~8 hours.
TWF said:
At some point, yes. But I don't need it until just before I bond together the production top and bottom.
I was planning to come to Sears on Jan 2, if you're going to be there. No need to clog up this thread - I'll e-mail you to coordinate details.
Moike
Shit Magnet
Composites are fun... I love living in a surf town with 1/2 a dozen
different fiberglass houses within a few miles of my pad.
I'm still itching at little scabs on my wrists and ankles weeks later
from all the fab work I did on the RGM. Eh, live and learn.
I don't think there's much I couldn't make these days out of
metal glaze and fiberglass.
Lookin' good...
-Mike-
different fiberglass houses within a few miles of my pad.
I'm still itching at little scabs on my wrists and ankles weeks later
from all the fab work I did on the RGM. Eh, live and learn.
I don't think there's much I couldn't make these days out of
metal glaze and fiberglass.
Lookin' good...
-Mike-