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The Ultimate DRZ-400SM Thread - Mods, Tips and Tricks

Where can I get the 38t or 39t rear sprocket for the SM? Anywhere around here have it in the store?

Also, what's the longevity of the alloy rear sprocket.
 
protokultur said:
Where can I get the 38t or 39t rear sprocket for the SM? Anywhere around here have it in the store?

Also, what's the longevity of the alloy rear sprocket.
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Congrats on the bike.

Motostrano in Redwood City can get you the sprocket. Or you can call Sprocket Specialists and have them make you one.

Be warned though, if you go 38 or 39, you may need a new chain, or cut a link off your current one.
 
protokultur said:
Where can I get the 38t or 39t rear sprocket for the SM? Anywhere around here have it in the store?

Also, what's the longevity of the alloy rear sprocket.
Click to expand...

I think I've got a 38 and 39 that I'm not using and don't plan to use. Send me a PM.
 
I sold Mortifer a 38t a while back that I think he put on, and then immediately took off, his DRZ. I'm guessing he still has it.
 
Ogg said:
I sold Mortifer a 38t a while back that I think he put on, and then immediately took off, his DRZ. I'm guessing he still has it.
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Hey Todd, It's being put to good use now!

140axd2.jpg
 
i was doing more research into the master cylinder for the drz and i dont think going with a bigger master cylinder will really give better braking. you'll get a stiffer feel to the brakes but it will ultimately take more force form your hand to get the equivalent braking power.

after swapping the master on mine i still wasn't happy with the brakes. they felt nicer at first around the street cause they lever got hard quicker and a bit of placebo effect from buying somehting new and expecting results but once i got on the track they didn't make me feel like i had more braking power. i had to lie to myself a bit and change the pads before i was willing to admit i wasted my time and money on it.

if i could go back i would have stuck with the stock master and tried adjusting the screw to get it situated a little better.
 
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stans magura master might be easier to pump harder cause its radial, but i would get the smaller bore size available like around 11mm
 
It's not just power. It's brake feel. The stock DRZ brakes have no feel. I want a nice controllable linear force.

Plus that master you got was made for sportbikes. Way overkill for a single small caliper.
 
whats the bore size on the magura you got?
 
Looking for advice on getting my 2000 E model set up for street/dirt use. It was plated back in the day, so that's not an issue. I've been using it for strictly dirt.

So far it has
1) crappy conversion kit w lights blinkers. No speedo, milage counter only
2) just got a set of supermoto wheels w spacers and front caliper relocater

Need ?
1) cooling fans for radiator(s) ?
2) sprocket/ chain info, so I can switch back and forth
3) better speedo ?
4) ??
 
I put the Trailtech Vapor on my DRZ250. It's a good, affordable kit with trip meter, mileage, speedo, tach, water temp (for yours, not mine), etc.
 
planegray said:
Looking for advice on getting my 2000 E model set up for street/dirt use. It was plated back in the day, so that's not an issue. I've been using it for strictly dirt.

So far it has
1) crappy conversion kit w lights blinkers. No speedo, milage counter only
2) just got a set of supermoto wheels w spacers and front caliper relocater

Need ?
1) cooling fans for radiator(s) ?
2) sprocket/ chain info, so I can switch back and forth
3) better speedo ?
4) ??
Click to expand...

I'd pick up a cooling fan and just wire it on a switch when you see the water temperature go too high on your gauges (because the vapor supports a water temp probe). Vapor is basically the #1 option when it comes to cheap gauges, and have been steadily improving their product over the years, it's super functional and relatively inexpensive.

What is your current gearing? I think personally that 15/41 (stock SM gearing) is pretty much dead on for street use.

I'd also consider upgrading the seat if you're going to be going for long rides.

You could get away without a fan as long as you're not doing a lot of crawling in traffic.
 
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I have a spare temp probe and fan you can have. If the E and SM radiators and wiring harness are the same you should be good to go.

Agree with Z3n - stock SM gearing is my choice as well. Mine had a 38t rear when I got it (Brad had used it as a freeway commuter). In my opinion the 41t matches up with the transmission gearing better for canyon fun and is adequate for the occasional freeway run.
 
don't know for sure if it makes a difference,
and i might just be blowing out my afterburner,
water might flow different in your e than an s-
check on this so you put the fan where it does the most good.
 
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