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The Ultimate DRZ-400SM Thread - Mods, Tips and Tricks

What are you using for your SM? I can find front tires but the rears are difficult because of the size. Anyone have good experience on a particular brand tire combo?

rude1

A super sticky rain front and a decent street rear is a good setup for Sumos. I ran this combo on my Husky SM610, DRZ, and SXV with great results.

Matter of fact, I have some sticky Pirelli SuperCorsa SC2 take offs in the 160 size that I am trying to sell. Yes--the Pirelli 160 rear will fit the DRZ with no problems.
 

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Ok so I am burning through my stock Dunlops, any suggestions on a good tire for 400SM's? I commute mostly on the freeway and occasionally do some back road twisties w/ an occasional long distance ride. As far as percentage I do 80% commute, 15% twisties, 5% long distance.

rude1:ride

My recommended tire for commuting would be on a totally different bike.
 
My recommended tire for commuting would be on a totally different bike.

oh, you are sooo negative.... some people enjoy being blown around like an off screen porn star, and hearing their motors clock ticking away as the miles pass.
 
The 160 fits with no troubles? Send me some photos of the tires and were they on the track is that why they are takeoffs?


A super sticky rain front and a decent street rear is a good setup for Sumos. I ran this combo on my Husky SM610, DRZ, and SXV with great results.

Matter of fact, I have some sticky Pirelli SuperCorsa SC2 take offs in the 160 size that I am trying to sell. Yes--the Pirelli 160 rear will fit the DRZ with no problems.
 
The 160 fits with no troubles? Send me some photos of the tires and were they on the track is that why they are takeoffs?

A Pirelli 160 fits beautifully, whereas I could not get a Dunlop 160 to even clear the swingarm.

Yes, they are from my racebike. I change rear tires every race weekend, they typically go through one practice day (4 sessions with 5 laps), and 2 sprint races.

If you're interested, come by and take a look. I believe I live near you in West San Jose. I'm right on Williams/San Tomas.
 
This thread rocks, but needs more links and info in the first post, I'll add some later.

Funny I clicked this and forgot it was all about MY current bike I bought from Stan. :teeth

Thanks again Stan, I've loved every minute on this DRZ!!!!:party

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Due to the popularity of the DRZ-400SM and the amount of people riding, buying and modding them, I decided to merge a few good informative threads into this "DRZ-400SM Ultimate Thread". I hope this helps many and if you have new info, please post it here! Thanks and ride safe!

-Dion


********

Hi All,

I just picked up another DRZ400SM (3rd one!) and this one is bone stock...

I actually bought this bike to race next year in the AFM 250P class, but I would still like to be able to ride it on the street. The bike is an '05 Yellow/Red model and has 800-miles. It's practically brand new. I specifically choose the '05 model as current rules allow unlimited motor mods, but no big bore, and stock carb/airbox)

Here are the current mods:

Renthal Fat bar kit
Acerbis hand guards
Yoshimura RS-2 full exhaust system
FMF Jet kit
Goodridge SS brake lines
EBC HH pads

-

My next step is to remove the front forks and have them revalved/resprung, but other than that, i'm not sure what else to do. Cams? E-model base gasket? Ceramic bearings? Lighter flywheel? Anyone know how to make a 'good' looking belly pan for this bike?

I got the bike for a song, so I have a bunch of cash left over to do some motor mods. What do ya'll suggest?

drz3.jpg
 
Check out the latest (and greatest?) upgrade for your DRZ400SM, the Evolution DRZ Triple Clamps.:thumbup


I purchased a set of the Evolution DRZ triple clamps, and told Rob that I would post some feedback.
First, the quality is SUPERB! Great looking, easy to install, and makes the bike look even better than it already does.
I have ridden many of my regular roads with this new setup, and I must say that it DOES turn better, faster, and transitions easier than with the stock setup. Initial turn in is easier. As you counter steer more, the bike wants to just drop right in to the turns, much the same way a well setup sport bike does. No coaxing or extra effort needed. Just look left, counter steer, and there you go! The bike is very stable under braking while leaned over as well. You can continue to scrub off speed with trail braking, even in fast sweepers, and there are no adverse reactions from the bike. All in all, I really like this upgrade.
Now, on to the mechanical / install side of things. Nothing bad here either, but there are some things that must be mentioned.
First, My thought on having the steering stem pressed out from your stock lower triple is this: LET ROB DO IT, and pay the extra money!
I say this because unless you have a very competent machinist on your salary, it will be next to impossible for you to do yourself without destroying your bottom triple. Enough said.
Next, if you are using an aftermarket, oversized gas tank, this setup WILL make contact with the tank before it gets to the steering stops. I use an IMS 3.2, and the upper triple contacts the tank. This ONLY happens on very slow, very tight turns. No biggie, in my book.
Also be aware that the headlight shroud (plastic piece) will only use the two side mounts after installation, because the relocation of the upper and lower triple makes using the lower shroud mount un-necessary. I just clipped the plastic 'tang' off the bottom of the shroud, and mounted it with the side mounts. No Problems.
I did have to remove my GPR steering dampener, as it will not work with this setup without some sort of modification. But Rob tells me that the SCOTTS 'sub mount' bolts right up to the upper triple, no problem.
Finally, if you are using the stock front fender, you WILL need to remove (cut off) some of the back of the fender, so it will clear the radiators. Remember, with these triples, the forks are moved back and in, so trimming the fender is necessary. How much you need to trim will depend on your bike and setup. I also use the 'Uni-biker' radiator guards, so these interfere with the un-trimmed fender as well. Trim accordingly.
I will be doing a SuperMoto track day at Prairie City on August 21st, and will report back on my feelings about the performance improvement of these triples after that. Having already ridden most of my favorite roads with these triples on, I can tell you that they will really improve my lap times as well as my ease of navigating the track at higher speeds.
I give this product 2 thumbs up!

Lonster
 

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This thread rocks, but needs more links and info in the first post, I'll add some later.

Funny I clicked this and forgot it was all about MY current bike I bought from Stan. :teeth

Thanks again Stan, I've loved every minute on this DRZ!!!!:party

3360790569_e8dd7ef585_b.jpg

Holy #@$% thats awesome, diving through the creek. Where is that?
 
400SM guys.. help please

Can someone please tell me how long the 400SM upside down fork is from top of cap to center of axle, fully extended??
would be greatly appreciated

THANKS
 
I couldn't measure perfectly without 10 minutes of moving stuff around in the garage so that I could get the DRZ on the MC jack but one-man with the fork fully extended it measures almost exactly 36" within 1/4" max.

Need it closer, I'll be working on stuff in the garage tomorrow and it'll be easier.

2006 DRZ400SM, btw.
 
That's great, thanks!!
and what I was hoping to hear...
I'm looking for forks for a project, and these are looking like they are the ones I want.

Thank you
 
Hey guys....im new to your forum, so someone may have already talked about this. But do anyone else have problems with you SM jumpin outta gear while up in a wheelie. Mine does it and my buddies does too
 
R1 throttle tube mod

I finally got around to doing the R1 throttle tube mod. I was in too much of a hurry to take pics but the ones that FrigginChi posted are representative.

http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=227265&page=6

With an FCR39 the throttle rotation between fully closed to full open was reduced from about 83 degrees to 73 degrees measured with a degree wheel indexed by eye on the brake lever; from about 1/4 to 1/5 turn, 12% quicker. I'm pretty sure that the FCR requires more rotation to full throttle than the stock carburetor. I don't remember tweaking on the throttle throw until I swapped to the FCR.

I traced the stock throttle tube's shape onto a piece of clear packaging tape to make a template and used a die grinder with a carbide burr to trim the R1 tube to match the DRZ's stock tube.

The stop on the open cable side seems to just need to clear the cable housing fitting.

The clock was staring at me and the stop on the close cable side seemed less important to me so I was a little less precise with it. As a result, it is now possible for the throttle tube to hang up slightly on the housing after the throttle is forced shut, twisted with some force beyond it's natural closed position. No big deal but not 100% perfect.

The throttle tube is Yamaha part number 4YR-26240-02-00 which supercedes the 4YR-26240-01-00 cited earlier in this thread.

Before I ordered the R1 tube, I found that all DRZs seem to use the same throttle housing (57110-14D00) but the throttle tube for off road FCR equipped ones has a different number than the street (and green sticker?) legal DRZs. Those throttle tubes are 57100-14D11 and 57100-12D11, respectively.

The 14D11 was more than twice the cost of the R1 part and I read a post on Thumpertalk where some Aussie was complaining about the throttle pull being too long on a DRZ400E so I went with what is proven to work. That 14D11 part could be the magic no fabrication bolt-on, though.

Suzuki part numbers are from ronayers.com and may not jive with Suzuki part numbers.

Throttle tube PNs: 2004 Yamaha YZFR1 4YR-26240-02; 2006 Suzuki DRZ400SM 57110-12D11; 2000 Suzuki DRZ400E 57110-14D11; 2006 Suzuki DRZ400E 57110-14D11.
 

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Hey I was curious I just bought a 09 400sm and I was curious if there if anyway youcan take the exhausts spark arrestor out of the cap of the exhaust. Iwoud buy a new exhaust but I can't afford to buy it and jetting kit.
 
Hey I was curious I just bought a 09 400sm and I was curious if there if anyway youcan take the exhausts spark arrestor out of the cap of the exhaust. Iwoud buy a new exhaust but I can't afford to buy it and jetting kit.

You have to remove the end cap and punch it out or cut it off.
 
1.5 Gallon Stock Tank ??

Everything I've read suggests the DRZ's stock tank should hold something like 2.6 gallons. When I went riding this past weekend, I ran it out of gas and then drained the reserve. I barely made it to a gas station before it died, and then filled it as far as I could and it only took ~1.5 gallons.

Anyone have any insight on this? 85 mile range without jetting or exhaust modification seems unusually restrictive.
 
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