theAmazingKickstand
New member
Just don't hulk on the bolts.I also have aluminum handlebars and seatpost...
Never used a TW for drivetrain parts 'cept for that BB30 junk. Hulk with common sense on chain ring bolts; pretty tight. If I may, "hella" tight for BB cups and cassette lock rings. Kinda pretty tight for headsets.
I've never heard of anyone using that calculator successfully; same for figuring out which rim/hub/spoke length will work.
Speaking of fixing stuff.. I have a wheel that slightly out of true and another that kind of pulses a little when I use the brakes. do you think I would be better off taking them to a shop or buying the stuff to try to do it myself? I've never messed with wheels and don't know if I want to.
Put the chain around the big ring and your lowest (biggest) cog and connect them. The rear. der. should be forced to move forward a few cm's but not near it's limit. Spin slowly and see that it sounds good/not making ratchety noise/not trying to rip the rear der. in half. Then shift to the small chain ring and the highest cog and see that it works well. Slowly shift up and down eery where and check that it's smooth and the rear. der is still in one peace. Spin very slowly and carefully when you get to combinations that stretch the der. until you're sure it's right.
Some of these new fancy der.s are so strong that they rip the frame instead of breaking off.
When no one's looking take off the chain and line it up with your old one to confirm you got the right length. Tada! Now you've developed the feel for it. (Close the garage door if you have to do this a few times.)
Get a truing stand for sure and practice with a cheap wheel. It's pretty hard to break a 32 spoke wheel. Don't practice on some fancy $1k 16 spoke thing cuz that could lead to tears and empty wallets.
Really important to get a good stand like the Park Pro (about $200) Don't waste your money some flimsy junk from Performance for $70.
It's easy to get a wheel true side to side or round so there's no hop up or down. Hard part is getting both of them perfect.
You could fix your little wobbles easily I'm guessing. With your new fancy truing stand you learn to buy parts and build the equivalent of a $1,200 wheel for $400. You can build a $400 to much better quality than it came from the factory. I rebuild all wheels I get, new or used.
Under no circumstances should you let your friends know that you have a truing stand and know what to do with it. It's the same as owning a truck.
If you wanna be a dick you can show them how to do three spokes and leave the rest to them. You'll come back from work 8 hours later to a pissed off friend and your three spokes even worse than you found them.
Do those three with them again and go to sleep.
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. I'll probably keep it considering it's a super fun to ride attention whore and how many hours I've wasted on it. Stuff was still really good back then. Not like top of the line junk from the 60's and earlier. Frame and crank stiffness is by far the biggest difference compared to a good new bike. It shifts and spins and holds speed exceptionally well.
