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How-To: 2003+ Intake Cam > 2002- SV650

afm199 said:
rechecking of cams needed. The swap does not need rejet. Are you carbs still stock? If so, try shimming the needles 40 thous and turning the fuel screws out three turns. If you have an aftermarket filter or exhaust you need bigger mains.
Click to expand...

The former owner installed a Yoshimura slip-on and indicated that he had re-jetted the carb--what specific changes he made when he rejetted it, I do not know. The carb has been snorkeled, but I cannot install tank risers as I have standard handlebars with a Scott's damper which makes doing so not practical.

Someone suggested changing to 17.5 pilots if the former owner did not already do so as that would give a good range of adjustment for setting the air screws as you suggested. What do you think of the 17.5 pilots?

When you speak of shimming the needles, are you speaking of the procedure described at: http://www.geocities.com/catpoopman/howtoshim.html ??
 
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Yes. that is the procedure. If you do the fuel screws at three turns you can used the stock pilots.

If you don't know what the carbs are jetted at, you should pull them and look. Stock air filter?
 
afm199 said:
Yes. that is the procedure. If you do the fuel screws at three turns you can used the stock pilots.

If you don't know what the carbs are jetted at, you should pull them and look. Stock air filter?
Click to expand...

You recommended 40 thousandts for the shims and the procedure published at: http://www.geocities.com/catpoopman/howtoshim.html recommends 20 thousands. What, mechanically, is happening with this extra shimming? Why do you feel 40 works better than 20?

The air filter appears to be the OEM white paper filter. Is there one that gives better airflow that should be considered? Depending on who one talks to, I have heard the K&N restricts airflow more than the OEM filter.
 
pilot1 said:
The air filter appears to be the OEM white paper filter. Is there one that gives better airflow that should be considered? Depending on who one talks to, I have heard the K&N restricts airflow more than the OEM filter.
Click to expand...

As far as I know a desnorkeld stock air filter is the best.
 
pilot1 said:
You recommended 40 thousandts for the shims and the procedure published at: http://www.geocities.com/catpoopman/howtoshim.html recommends 20 thousands. What, mechanically, is happening with this extra shimming? Why do you feel 40 works better than 20?

The air filter appears to be the OEM white paper filter. Is there one that gives better airflow that should be considered? Depending on who one talks to, I have heard the K&N restricts airflow more than the OEM filter.
Click to expand...

I feel it works better because there were about forty dyno runs done to work it out.

Use the OEM filter and desnorkel it, try 150-152 mains.
 
afm199 said:
I feel it works better because there were about forty dyno runs done to work it out.

Use the OEM filter and desnorkel it, try 150-152 mains.
Click to expand...

oops. slip on. use smaller mains.
 
Without knowing what bike they came from, is there any way to identify the 03 intake cams from the 99-02 intake cams just by visual inspection??
 
Hey zoran,
I did the swap, but now my bike won't turn over at all when I try to start it... I even hooked it up to my car battery just to make sure it wasn't a dead battery, and the starter motor revs, but other than the starter motor making noise, I just hear a "click-click-click"... does that sound like I messed up the timing or did I do something else dumb? (there was a wire that didn't have a plug located under the large boot cover on the RT side - it houses the front wiring harness, the rad. fan and rad temp. sensor and one other thing that isn't hooked up, could that be the problem - I can't seem to find what should be plugged into that!)

I also didn't check the valve clearances, which I will do when I check the timing... :wtf

Speaking of the timing - which direction should you rotate the crankshaft when lining up the timing mark to the " |F " mark for the front cylinder? Also, what direction should you turn it when lining it up to the " |F " mark again, when doing the timing on the rear cylinder?

Arg, so frustrating!! When we finally have above-50 degree weather! :mad
 
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Starter motor makes noise... does the noise include the motor rotating? You say it does not turn over.. Does that mean the starter does not spin the motor, or the motor does not even try to start?

How did you do the swap without turning the crank? ( rotate it CCW looking from the left side.) Always turn it the same way, CCW.
Do the front, rotate 360 degrees ( one full turn ) do the rear. F both times
 
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anyone got cams?

hey, anyone reading this thread got a spare set of 2nd gen cams for sale?

Not sure if I can justify a set of Web Cams, although I know of a few for sale...

I've also got 2 spare curvy motors getting torn down for parts if anyone needs anything, fwiw. Nothing fancy, just street motors with spun bearings.
 
always rotate motor forward.
turn motor by hand and see if it turns freely.
 
I'll be doing this before too long. Forward meaning the crank spins in the same direction as the wheels? I'm considering recruiting some help, I'd really prefer not fucking it up.
 
Junkie said:
Forward meaning the crank spins in the same direction as the wheels?
Click to expand...

In this case yes. But meaning is more to spin motor by hand in same direction motor spins when running. Some motors spin backwards (opposite of wheels).
 
I figured that you meant in the normal direction, I just wasn't sure what it was on an SV. Thanks.
 
You should NEVER try to spin the motor over after any cam work until you verify that everything is good by turning it over by hand first. See that it doesn't bind and check that you have compression at the spark plug holes.
 
I finally got to this today, with the help of Ironbutt here. Amazingly enough my valve clearances *barely* changed with the cam swap. My rear exhausts were in spec but a little tight, everything else was great. Now the rear exhausts are a little loose but in spec, less likely to burn and it's a streetbike anyway.

Bike runs better now than it did before, next is desnorkeling a new air filter and then getting the jetting right...
 
It's been a year since anybody has posted on this, so here goes:
I have done this to both of my SV engines and it's great. I am recently putting some new pistons into one of my engines and almost mixed up the front and rear intake cams which would have made the cam timing way off. So another note here is to make sure you are keeping the front cams on the front cylinder and the rear cams on the rear cylinders. This is a great mod and gives more ponies.

On one of my engines I have used all the same cams, all first gen. intake cams on both sides (front and rear, of course). Which makes for a more "mid range" powered engine, where only the exhaust side is larger than original.
 
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