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How-To: 2003+ Intake Cam > 2002- SV650

Cam Swap 03 to Gen 1 Engines

Got the courage to try this from the article years ago. Front went well. The rear is confusing me. Marked the OI as per pic with the new '3' over the '1' in the '1F' mark. The cams lobes line up per pic showing the REAR CYLINDER, the 1R positioon on the NI is good, and I have the 16 links between the '2' on the NI and the new '3' on the OI. The cam marking shows the 1F near the 5 o'clock position on the OI in the REAR CYLINDER pic. Am I okay with this installation?
 
CCT Adj Locking Tool 09917-62430

What does this cct adj locking tool look like? Can't seem to get the cct unit(s) back in place. Can't find a pic anywhere. A screwdriver/vicegrips might work on the top, but the rear one...no way..only have two hands.
 
phantomguy said:
What does this cct adj locking tool look like? Can't seem to get the cct unit(s) back in place. Can't find a pic anywhere. A screwdriver/vicegrips might work on the top, but the rear one...no way..only have two hands.
Click to expand...

Gen one or gen two? Gen one you can take a big cotter pin and flatten one end to get the blade, then bend it in a u shape and tape it to the body of the CCT. Flatten the end, shove it in the slot, wind the spring out and tape the other U end to the CCT.
 
Gen 1.....thanks for the tip...try that today...got the forward in using a screwdriver/vice grip....gravity isn't my friend on the rear.....haven't located any metal stock for making the widget tool.
 
Ride back together...sounds great! Interesting that the forward intake cam wasn't in spec(retarded) when I opened the cover. Thanks again for the cct tool tip..passed it on to the SV Forum.
 
phantomguy said:
Gen 1.....thanks for the tip...try that today...got the forward in using a screwdriver/vice grip....gravity isn't my friend on the rear.....haven't located any metal stock for making the widget tool.
Click to expand...

cotter pin from auto parts or hardware store. very soft
 
Lots of c/pins on hand...whenever the rear wheel is off...new pin...usaf-trained aircraft inspector. Took my ride out....definitely worth the work...
 
phantomguy said:
Lots of c/pins on hand...whenever the rear wheel is off...new pin...usaf-trained aircraft inspector. Took my ride out....definitely worth the work...
Click to expand...

Yah it makes a huge difference with the cam swap.
 
Help needed - Performance Chart - Cam Timing

Dear all,
Please see my Performance Chart.
What I have done:
Cam swap, I took the 03 intake cam with the original/same position as it is and used my old Intake camm for Exhaust as described in this tutorial
K&N, aftermarket exhaust, Dynojet re-jetting.
In Winter 2012 I took the heads down to do some tuning on the channels. Exhaust Chanel mainly and a bit on the intake.
Since I did the cam swap the engine had more power but it never worked as it should. I had always the feeling one cylinder is working more as the other.
Last month I had it on a Dynojet 250 power-absorption roller.
We worked for two days on the carburetors to adjust without success. The best we could do you can see on the attached link.
What can this be. Is it the Cam Timing or something else.
Please help.
Baffo

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/22594682/Cagiva%20Raptor%20650%20-%20Dakic.pdf
 
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That cam swap works for SV650s. It's not at all a recipe for any other bike.
 
here is a picture how a Cagiva (MVAugusta) looks like:
032.jpg
 
Check your valve clearances, and run a compression test on front and rear cylinders. Check the cam timing marks. What jets are you running? Or FI?
 
afm199 said:
Check your valve clearances, and run a compression test on front and rear cylinders. Check the cam timing marks. What jets are you running? Or FI?
Click to expand...

Valve crearances ~ perfect, compression perfect because the head was rebuild. Cam timing; I believe there is something wrong. I use the 137,5 in the fron and Dyno Jet 136 on the rear cylinder.
 
Baffo said:
Valve crearances ~ perfect, compression perfect because the head was rebuild. Cam timing; I believe there is something wrong. I use the 137,5 in the fron and Dyno Jet 136 on the rear cylinder.
Click to expand...

If your rings are bad so will the compression be. CHECK the compression, motor warm.

Small jets, particularly with aftermarket pipes. Those are stock sizes. If you have non stock airfilter and pipes you need something larger, possibly much larger.

The intakes have timing marks. CHECK them against the manual. Check the rears as well, make your own marks per the instructions. Nobody can tell you on the internet. You have to do the work.
 
73whp doesn't seem too shabby. What would you expect for a cam swap/full exhaust?

edit: does the Cagiva have the same carbs/airbox as the SV?
 
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It's not that shabby for stock otherwise.
 
Junkie said:
73whp doesn't seem too shabby. What would you expect for a cam swap/full exhaust?

edit: does the Cagiva have the same carbs/airbox as the SV?
Click to expand...

It is not about the power, the engine has a greater potential if it would run propperly. The problem here is the air fuel mixture of the front and rear zylinder in the range of 4000 and 5000 RPM. The front zylinder (RED) is too rich and the rear zylinder (BLUE) is too lean. Because of this huge differences the engine is lose power and most important it runs irregular that you can feel it.
 
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