• There has been a recent cluster of spammers accessing BARFer accounts and posting spam. To safeguard your account, please consider changing your password. It would be even better to take the additional step of enabling 2 Factor Authentication (2FA) on your BARF account. Read more here.

post a *PIC* of your latest purchase (can be anything as long as you purchased it)

Blankpage said:
Up to 1000 km don't exceed 5500
Up to 2500 km don't exceed 7000
Finish you vegetables.

It doesn't show a redline so I guess once broken in I can explore where the revlimiter kicks in.
Click to expand...


:laughing

RIDE MORE SO YOU CAN RIP.
 
stan23 said:
I entertained the idea of both the CTSV and Hellcat. Got to drive them both by myself with no distractions for a few hours.

They were just not for me. The CTSV was the better car, but fit and finish and exterior was not to my taste.

The Hellcat was just strange. Way too much unusable power and I don't like the charger body.

Neither made me want to swap out of my F80 M3. I was looking for a more 'refined' ride I guess.
Click to expand...

Makes sense. The interior of the caddy is nicer every generation but still lacking compared to the europeans. Hell, even the cheap Alfa Guilia is gorgeous compared to most all domestics. Alfa Quadrofolio (?) is pretty amazing

budman said:
I love my CTSV... too heavy for the track, but it was still pretty capable.

I have the '11.... so back a few years.
I would have to say it is the best car I have every had.
Click to expand...

I'm still hunting for one of that generation with a 6 speed. It's not as nice as the BMWs but I sure as hell hope that the motor is put together better than the bubble gum gaskets of my 550i. I was also thinking C6 Z06 but I think I REALLY prefer having rear seats and 4 doors. C6 ZR1 is just over priced. Especially when used C7 Z06 is in the same price area.
 
Last edited:
The topic deserves its own thread and I bet over the years its already been covered here. I've followed the breakin recommendations on every new bike I've bought and can't say thats caused any problems. Sure its a bit boring to putt around like a little old lady for the first little while but it gives you time to smell the roses and take in the scenery.

Be interesting to hear TheRobSJ's opinion on breakin requirements.
 
Seen this argument before. Some people did it by book got good results others "let it rip" and got results. Basically what that tells me it doesn't matter.
 
UDRider said:
Seen this argument before. Some people did it by book got good results others "let it rip" and got results. Basically what that tells me it doesn't matter.
Click to expand...

Mostly this, but I think part of the purpose is so that if there's an unfavorable tolerance stack up, they want parts to wear in, as opposed to wear out. My agenda is different. If something is shitty, I want it to break, so it can be fixed.
 
cylinder pressure seats the rings, it's that simple, put the thing under load. Also, regardless of what you do that's WAY too many miles/KM necessary to do an engine break in. The rings will seat or they wont, and quickly.
 
Whats good for seating rings isn't necessarily good for main bearings, cam bearings, gearbox...
The extra little power increase from putting a priority on seating the rings only matters if racing. On the street its not even noticed.
 
Probably nothing, 1-2km of not ringing it out :)

I'd trust the manual over some guys from the internet on a subject i knew little about as well. Nice bike dude, it'll be fine no matter what you do
 
Yeah it makes for a boring ride but its been only dirtbikes for the past several years so don't want to get cocky and end up with a thread in Crash Analysis.
 
Blankpage said:
The topic deserves its own thread and I bet over the years its already been covered here. I've followed the breakin recommendations on every new bike I've bought and can't say thats caused any problems. Sure its a bit boring to putt around like a little old lady for the first little while but it gives you time to smell the roses and take in the scenery.

Be interesting to hear TheRobSJ's opinion on breakin requirements.
Click to expand...

Why not. This will be a bit long. But I've got a little time this morning.

As a representative of an auto manufacturer and one of their poster children for doing things proper, as a one would expect from a factory trained master technician...it'd be a bit silly for me to just say go out and rip it. But, I do feel that some of the mileage requirements on some of these break in procedures are just a wee bit excessive.

These mileages are so important, yet at every press launch for every new vehicle ever, they have super virgin vehicles. Sometimes they even do these press launches at tracks! Think any of the journalists just take 250 laps at 1/3 speed because they want to properly break in the engine or risk it throwing at rod? Journalists right there to document any embarassing engine failure, yet manufacturers have no qualms about handing over bikes with nowhere near the miles on them to be considered broken in and ready for unrestricted use.

I took delivery of my new H-D earlier this month with 43 miles on the clock. I know god damn well that everyone who test rode that bike, sales people moving it in and out of the showroom everyday, and probably even the tech who do the PDI sure didn't give a shit about not revving it over 3000rpm or whatever the specified break in number is. For my control freakish OCD self, this was not an ideal situation. But just about every bike on the showroom at a Harley dealer has some miles on them due to the very generous test ride policy so it's something I just gotta accept.

Now to the ideal situation...least of amount of people before me. I took delivery of a new Acura RDX a couple weeks ago that I bought for my mom. The car rolled off the truck with 2 miles on it. The day that it did, I personally did the PDI on that car and nobody else drove it until I handed the keys to my mom with 35 miles on the clock. That said, I know that maybe half a dozen people drove the car before me and the engine had probably been running for a few hours already by then. Driven off the line, driven through wheel alignment, radar/camera aiming, and water test, driven onto transporter/rail car, driven from transporter/rail car to local yard, and finally driven on and off transporter from local yard...could be more people in the chain, but that's the bare minimum. So even with me taking control from the earliest point possible, I still can't vouch that everyone before me didn't just shrug "meh ain't my car" and ignore break in procedures.

So it sounds like damage (if there is any) from ignoring break in mileage is already done then doesn't it? Yes and no. You still want to take it easy a bit and not demand maximum perfomance out of everthing because it's not just an engine (seating rings, etc) that's breaking in. You've got brakes that need to be bedded in and whatever protective coating may be on the rotors to be fully burned off. You've got tires (Michelins are notorious for this) that may have coatings that need to be scrubbed off. There's other minor stuff like working in suspension bushings and what not, but the engine, brakes, and tires and really the ones that matter when it comes to breaking in things.

So when I replace brakes on a car or put tires on a car, I give the same rap. It's just like getting a new car again for this one aspect. I replaced your front brakes? Well you've gotta take it easy a bit while those new pads bed into you new/resurfaced rotors. Typically, I'd say you're totally fine by 200 miles but could take up to 500 miles if you're very conservative braking and do lots of highway miles. Realistically, I can have brakes bedded in and ready for maximum performance in less than 10 miles. But I could never trust a customer to do it my way, hence the longer numbers I tell people. Same thing for tires. Couple hundred miles, or one gentle lap if we're talking track use, and you're good to go.

But let's go back to the heart of the matter. The engine. With a car, as I said even if you get it brand spanking new, plenty of people drove it before you, then engine has been running for awhile already. Realistically, it's already broken in. It certainly won't hurt anything by following the procedure down to the last mile and might make the difference between an engine lasting 150k miles without ever needing to be opened up and one that start consuming a 1quart of oil every 1k miles before it even has 100k on the clock. Realistically, probably not. But again...it can't hurt.

A motorcycle engine on the other hand is different. Many of them are test run for a little bit while still hanging on the production line. Then the bike is fully assembled, crated, and shipped to the dealer. All those unaccountable transport drivers and end of line assembly workers are factored out. Now you just have the technician who did the PDI at the dealer who hopefully was just bored of riding the 100th bike just like it and didn't feel the need to be curious as to how well the wheelie control function works. And if it's a no test ride policy brand, then that's it until the bike is sold to you. Engine has hardly any run time still. In this case, you should use some precautions. My personal procedure for if I had done a full (or even partial) engine rebuild on an existing vehicle is this. Start it and let it get to operating temperature. No full throttle. Slowly free rev it up to about 1/2-2/3 of it's rev limit and let it decel about 10-15 times. Now drive it. 1st or 2nd gear only, accelerate up to 1/3 of rev ceiling and let it decel. Do that about five times increasing the amount of throttle opening each time. Now repeat but go up to 1/2 the rev range five times. Then repeat again going 2/3 five times. And then finally just below redline with the last couple pulls at full throttle. Now just drive it around normally not going too apeshit for 5-10 miles, and it's done. Change the oil if you want at this point, but on a modern engine is really not necessary. I can confidently return the vehicle to the customer now. Of course I say don't go over xxxxRPM for 500 miles, but I already know it's fine. Taking delivery of a new bike with 1 mile on the clock? I would do an abbreviated version of this procedure because the first couple hours of engine operation are what I consider to be the most crucial time of engine break in. And again, it certainly wouldn't hurt to go the full 1200miles or what I see some of these absurd numbers for motorcycle break ins are.......but fuck that. That's way too long. I just got rid of two bikes that had less miles than that on the odometers.
 
Last edited:
Friend got a new Duc Multistrsda 1200 that was part of the new model launch at Pikes Peak. I doubt it was babied. :laughing
 
TheRobSJ said:
Why not. This will be a bit long. But I've got a little time this morning...
Click to expand...

Good stuff :thumbup
I suspected the manual would be way on the conservative side of whats really required but nevertheless I figure why not.
The most miles I've ever put on an individual motorcycle was maybe 30K so it really isn't going to affect me whether I follow the book or not but just trying to do the right thing I suppose.
 
TheRobSJ said:
Why not. This will be a bit long. But I've got a little time this morning.

As a representative of an auto manufacturer and one of their poster children for doing things proper, as a one would expect from a factory trained master technician...it'd be a bit silly for me to just say go out and rip it. But, I do feel that some of the mileage requirements on some of these break in procedures are just a wee bit excessive.

These mileages are so important, yet at every press launch for every new vehicle ever, they have super virgin vehicles. Sometimes they even do these press launches at tracks! Think any of the journalists just take 250 laps at 1/3 speed because they want to properly break in the engine or risk it throwing at rod? Journalists right there to document any embarassing engine failure, yet manufacturers have no qualms about handing over bikes with nowhere near the miles on them to be considered broken in and ready for unrestricted use.

I took delivery of my new H-D earlier this month with 43 miles on the clock. I know god damn well that everyone who test rode that bike, sales people moving it in and out of the showroom everyday, and probably even the tech who do the PDI sure didn't give a shit about not revving it over 3000rpm or whatever the specified break in number is. For my control freakish OCD self, this was not an ideal situation. But just about every bike on the showroom at a Harley dealer has some miles on them due to the very generous test ride policy so it's something I just gotta accept.

Now to the ideal situation...least of amount of people before me. I took delivery of a new Acura RDX a couple weeks ago that I bought for my mom. The car rolled off the truck with 2 miles on it. The day that it did, I personally did the PDI on that car and nobody else drove it until I handed the keys to my mom with 35 miles on the clock. That said, I know that maybe half a dozen people drove the car before me and the engine had probably been running for a few hours already by then. Driven off the line, driven through wheel alignment, radar/camera aiming, and water test, driven onto transporter/rail car, driven from transporter/rail car to local yard, and finally driven on and off transporter from local yard...could be more people in the chain, but that's the bare minimum. So even with me taking control from the earliest point possible, I still can't vouch that everyone before me didn't just shrug "meh ain't my car" and ignore break in procedures.

So it sounds like damage (if there is any) from ignoring break in mileage is already done then doesn't it? Yes and no. You still want to take it easy a bit and not demand maximum perfomance out of everthing because it's not just an engine (seating rings, etc) that's breaking in. You've got brakes that need to be bedded in and whatever protective coating may be on the rotors to be fully burned off. You've got tires (Michelins are notorious for this) that may have coatings that need to be scrubbed off. There's other minor stuff like working in suspension bushings and what not, but the engine, brakes, and tires and really the ones that matter when it comes to breaking in things.

So when I replace brakes on a car or put tires on a car, I give the same rap. It's just like getting a new car again for this one aspect. I replaced your front brakes? Well you've gotta take it easy a bit while those new pads bed into you new/resurfaced rotors. Typically, I'd say you're totally fine by 200 miles but could take up to 500 miles if you're very conservative braking and do lots of highway miles. Realistically, I can have brakes bedded in and ready for maximum performance in less than 10 miles. But I could never trust a customer to do it my way, hence the longer numbers I tell people. Same thing for tires. Couple hundred miles, or one gentle lap if we're talking track use, and you're good to go.

But let's go back to the heart of the matter. The engine. With a car, as I said even if you get it brand spanking new, plenty of people drove it before you, then engine has been running for awhile already. Realistically, it's already broken in. It certainly won't hurt anything by following the procedure down to the last mile and might make the difference between an engine lasting 150k miles without ever needing to be opened up and one that start consuming a 1quart of oil every 1k miles before it even has 100k on the clock. Realistically, probably not. But again...it can't hurt.

A motorcycle engine on the other hand is different. Many of them are test run for a little bit while still hanging on the production line. Then the bike is fully assembled, crated, and shipped to the dealer. All those unaccountable transport drivers and end of line assembly workers are factored out. Now you just have the technician who did the PDI at the dealer who hopefully was just bored of riding the 100th bike just like it and didn't feel the need to be curious as to how well the wheelie control function works. And if it's a no test ride policy brand, then that's it until the bike is sold to you. Engine has hardly any run time still. In this case, you should use some precautions. My personal procedure for if I had done a full (or even partial) engine rebuild on an existing vehicle is this. Start it and let it get to operating temperature. No full throttle. Slowly free rev it up to about 1/2-2/3 of it's rev limit and let it decel about 10-15 times. Now drive it. 1st or 2nd gear only, accelerate up to 1/3 of rev ceiling and let it decel. Do that about five times increasing the amount of throttle opening each time. Now repeat but go up to 1/2 the rev range five times. Then repeat again going 2/3 five times. And then finally just below redline with the last couple pulls at full throttle. Now just drive it around normally not going too apeshit for 5-10 miles, and it's done. Change the oil if you want at this point, but on a modern engine is really not necessary. I can confidently return the vehicle to the customer now. Of course I say don't go over xxxxRPM for 500 miles, but I already know it's fine. Taking delivery of a new bike with 1 mile on the clock? I would do an abbreviated version of this procedure because the first couple hours of engine operation are what I consider to be the most crucial time of engine break in. And again, it certainly wouldn't hurt to go the full 1200miles or what I see some of these absurd numbers for motorcycle break ins are.......but fuck that. That's way too long. I just got rid of two bikes that had less miles than that on the odometers.
Click to expand...

tldr :twofinger
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top