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Time to get Fit thread

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Rinse, repeat.

Same route, same start time, same bicycle, same distance even the same drink in the bottle cage every day. Twenty-five miles.

The time to completion is the only change. I've gone from 2 1/2 hours to two hours flat with the same comfort level.

Yay, me.

Thats my fav part about cycling. It never gets easier, you just get faster :laughing
 
San Diego Winter cycling is here! When the temps drop, we head east into the hills for good climbing and great views. We chilled on the way up for the GF. But on the way back, she drafted well and we were able to up the pace a bunch. My buddy and I put in turns at the front of ~200w and she didnt have to pedal :laughing.

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4 mile down, pullups and brogability going now

lunch:
proton bar
nature valley bar
1 coffee
half a liter of water

dinner:
24oz NY steak
2 cups of rice
1 broccoli

leftover cals:
broccoli
 
Got in the normal weights today. Picked up my spirits.
 
I was thinking about the placement of the front brakes on the down bars. They really aren't a good location for braking, at least not in my experience, and yet the vast majority of road bikes have them in that position. What am I missing?
 
I was thinking about the placement of the front brakes on the down bars. They really aren't a good location for braking, at least not in my experience, and yet the vast majority of road bikes have them in that position. What am I missing?

You mean the standard position of being built into the shifters?
 
Had some wine and gin and tonic on Sunday, and for last two days recovery score has been pretty high. Kind of adds to my theory that not all types of drinks affect me same.
 
You mean the standard position of being built into the shifters?
The location of the brake levers, I've never had my hands in a position on the handlebars where pulling those levers would be optimal. My hands are on the horizontal bottom part or on the horizontal top part, depending on what I'm doing, but in order for the brake levers to be used effectively, your hands would have to be on the vertical part.
 
I personally find it easy to actuate the brakes from the standard handlebar position. I can even shift with my pinky if needed. You can also do a more aggressive position where your hands are gripping the brakes more directly.
 
Convinced my buddy to get a Whoop and his sleep is AWFUL. Like 4-5 hours out of 8 in bed.

oxygen quality (not the air quality, as mentioned previously :laughing), noise, bed, bedding, stimulants, stress, bluelight/screentime, apnea if he's fat are some things to troubleshoot through. assuming he cares enough to troubleshoot and you care enough as a friend to tell him. if you listen to some matt walker podcasts, your friend is doing mild brain damage to himself and likely stupider as a result.
 
4 mile down, brogability going now and might do some fluff work.

lunch:
nature valley bar
1 liter of water
1 coffee

dinner:
2 cups of rice
16oz NY steak
1 broccoli

leftover cals:
brogurt
 
HOME GYM
TUESDAY, DECEMBER 8, 2020

20-Min Run

5x15 - DB Shoulder Press
5x20 - Push Up
5x15 - Leg Raise
4x15 - DB Lateral Raise
3x10 - Bodyweight Squat

FOOD

• Bagel w/Butter
• Chicken Tikka Masala, Rice & Naan
• 2 Hachiya Persimmon (Jesus Fuck! :love)
• 1/4 C Raw Pumpkin Seeds
• Generic Chocolate Bar
• 10 Gummy Bears
• Ribeye, Rice & Peas

MACROS

Have no idea...

TODAY’S INSPIRATION

Goddamn Chuck Yeager. I just learned his story of getting shot down over France and how he made his way over the Spanish border. Amazing story.

Chuck-Yeager.jpg
 
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The location of the brake levers, I've never had my hands in a position on the handlebars where pulling those levers would be optimal. My hands are on the horizontal bottom part or on the horizontal top part, depending on what I'm doing, but in order for the brake levers to be used effectively, your hands would have to be on the vertical part.

Dropbars were originally intended to be ridden on the drops. The standard brake lever position offers the best access, feel, and power when riding in that position. Riding on the hoods is newer. The lever position is a compromise of braking performance for both locations. Shifting with the brake levers is the newest thing. I think Shimano came up with it in the 90s. Shifter development since then has been a huge compromise between access and use of the brakes in 2 positions as well as trying to fit the mechanisms for shifting into the lever. Then hydraulic brakes came a long and they had to re-design again.

There are 0 issues braking on the hoods with modern components. The modern shape showed up around 2008 with Shimano 7900 (later for lower-spec components). Those levers and later are adjustable, so you can move them closer to the bar for easier pull on the hoods. That coupled with quality brakes and blocks/pads makes it pretty easy to lock a tire or loop the bike even on the hoods.

If you want more braking power and feel, I'd suggest the following:
- cleaning & lubing the brake calipers
- making sure the cables are smooth and clean
- replacing the brake pads (blocks) with a quality aftermarket brand
- cleaning the wheel brake track and scuffing it with scotchbrite
 
4 mile down, haven't done brogability or lifted anything today. mebbe i will mebbe i won't.

lunch:
large black milk tea
coffee
half a liter of water
proton bar

dinner:
16oz NY steak
1 broccoli
2 cups of rice
6oz curry potato

leftover cals:
brogurt
 
WORKOUT
Wednesday, December 9, 2020

1-Mile Run

FOOD

• Bagel with Butter
• Hachiya Persimmon
• 2 Hard Eggs
• Breakfast Burrito
• 2 Oranges
• Grapes
• 1/2 C Raw Pumpkin Seeds
• Chocolate Raisins
• Panda Ex-vomit Chicken, Rice and Veggies
• 10 Gummy Bears

MACROS

Whatevs...
 
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Dropbars were originally intended to be ridden on the drops. The standard brake lever position offers the best access, feel, and power when riding in that position. Riding on the hoods is newer. The lever position is a compromise of braking performance for both locations. Shifting with the brake levers is the newest thing. I think Shimano came up with it in the 90s. Shifter development since then has been a huge compromise between access and use of the brakes in 2 positions as well as trying to fit the mechanisms for shifting into the lever. Then hydraulic brakes came a long and they had to re-design again.

There are 0 issues braking on the hoods with modern components. The modern shape showed up around 2008 with Shimano 7900 (later for lower-spec components). Those levers and later are adjustable, so you can move them closer to the bar for easier pull on the hoods. That coupled with quality brakes and blocks/pads makes it pretty easy to lock a tire or loop the bike even on the hoods.

If you want more braking power and feel, I'd suggest the following:
- cleaning & lubing the brake calipers
- making sure the cables are smooth and clean
- replacing the brake pads (blocks) with a quality aftermarket brand
- cleaning the wheel brake track and scuffing it with scotchbrite
I realized why mine don't feel right. The brake lever curves well away from the bars, unlike the ones that I see on the pro's bikes. I have very long fingers, but they can't reach the lever while on the bars on the bottom, and if I put them on the vertical part I can barely reach it.

Some fucking moron(s) came up with the shape and location on my handle bars, it absolutely doesn't work on this bike.
 
I realized why mine don't feel right. The brake lever curves well away from the bars, unlike the ones that I see on the pro's bikes. I have very long fingers, but they can't reach the lever while on the bars on the bottom, and if I put them on the vertical part I can barely reach it.

Some fucking moron(s) came up with the shape and location on my handle bars, it absolutely doesn't work on this bike.

PM me a pic of your bike. Changing the orientation of things can often help. And your levers might be adjustable.
 
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