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What did you do to your dirty bike today?

madsen203 said:
No! :-( Dammit Drew! Why wasn't your Go-Pro on?

It looked exactly like this:

16949cb23f995113bec84d6a40df06c1--play-hard-moto-tt.jpg


And yes...I did land on my feet.
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The best part of the photo is their buddies are sitting on the hill watching them. Sounds kinda like our stupid rides. :ride
 
stangz said:
The best part of the photo is their buddies are sitting on the hill watching them. Sounds kinda like our stupid rides. :ride
Click to expand...

I'd be the guy directly to the left of the looping bike providing a score and some very positive feedback in the form of heckling... :laughing
 
I cleaned and reassembled the carb on my new to me 2003 RM 250. I also cleaned the tank and took her for a quick spin. It is outfitted for offload use with a gnarly pipe and FMF silencer. She has a big hit down low and pulls hard through the middle. When traction is available she will roll right into a 4th gear wheelie with little effort. I can't wait to get her out for a day in the dirt. I'm ring dinging again!
 
anytwowilldo said:
I cleaned and reassembled the carb on my new to me 2003 RM 250. I also cleaned the tank and took her for a quick spin. It is outfitted for offload use with a gnarly pipe and FMF silencer. She has a big hit down low and pulls hard through the middle. When traction is available she will roll right into a 4th gear wheelie with little effort. I can't wait to get her out for a day in the dirt. I'm ring dinging again!
Click to expand...

giphy.gif


Retard the ignition to dull the hit. Flywheel weights are for trials bikes.

Moonrocks, November!
 
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I stared at them longingly and wished I could ride them and buy them things.
 
2strokeYardSale said:
giphy.gif


Retard the ignition to dull the hit. Flywheel weights are for trials bikes.

Moonrocks, November!
Click to expand...

I'd like to be able to make it to Moonrocks but am not sure I can.

How much do you retard the timing? It has an 8oz flywheel weight I believe and still hits hard.
 
anytwowilldo said:
I cleaned and reassembled the carb on my new to me 2003 RM 250. I also cleaned the tank and took her for a quick spin. It is outfitted for offload use with a gnarly pipe and FMF silencer. She has a big hit down low and pulls hard through the middle. When traction is available she will roll right into a 4th gear wheelie with little effort. I can't wait to get her out for a day in the dirt. I'm ring dinging again!
Click to expand...

Oh boy, how are we going to keep up with you now? It was nice to have a handicap with you on the heavy Honda.
 
stangz said:
Oh boy, how are we going to keep up with you now? It was nice to have a handicap with you on the heavy Honda.
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You actually have to ride with thus to worry about that! Did you buy a quad? :laughing :twofinger


anytwowilldo said:
I'd like to be able to make it to Moonrocks but am not sure I can.

How much do you retard the timing? It has an 8oz flywheel weight I believe and still hits hard.
Click to expand...

Tom, your RM is going to be slightly different than our YZ's. In general, the YZ mods we all have done are going to make the RM a better woods bike. But the specifics, ie how heavy a weight, how many degrees retarded etc etc may all be slightly different. But back to your question, Antonio retarded his YZ ignition too far and the bike became incredibly weak. Try 1, then 2 or 1.5. Find a long steep hill to test on. With a dial gauge in the spark plug hole its pretty easy to do in a staging area to test.

THis is how I would proceed....

1) The RM's (and I assume your 03) has adjustable power valve spring preload to help too. Thats where I would start. Wish the YZ had this. 2) Richen your needle slightly one clip, then maybe two. Thats your midrange transition and going just slightly richer will soften it. 3)Then figure out where your ignition is currently set compared to stock. I wouldnt retard more than 1-2 degrees. 4) then maybe a G2 Throttle Tamer. 5) Flywheel. Doesnt tame the hit from the seat of the pants feel as much as it allows it to chug along at really low rpm without flaming out. That is until you go to some heavy flywheel weights. I read Chad Reed and team Yamaha ran as much as 20 oz weights in the mud years ago on the smokers. I run an 11 oz. Your 8 oz might be just fine on the RM.

Anyways, thats the order I would be adjusting/tuning in. Lot of free stuff first. Just my opinion and experience. Others may vary.

Edit: O ring chains, heavy duty tubes, offroad tires, and 18" rear rim all slow the motor down a notch and help it hook up. Basically all add weight for the motor to turn.
 
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It has an 8oz flywheel weight I believe and still hits hard.
Click to expand...

The 250's I've ridden from that era make a good amount of power but it comes on pretty strong. Make sure to spend some time on it, it is soooo different than a 4t.

That being said the things that will affect that hit are combustion shape, pipe and fuel delivery. Pipe and head shape aren't too hard but the needle is the easiest. Read up on what people are using on the interwebz, a triple taper needle is likely what you want and I'm guessing the hit is from that second taper. I like to run single tapers because they are easier to tune and the power is pretty linear but have a triple on my Gasser. What carb? I've got a few single taper needles for Keihin you could play with to see if that's where the abrupt shape of the power is coming from; with a 2t its amazing what a needle will do. Doesn't Adam run an RM? Did you ask him about what he runs in it?

All the stuff CJ said is right but I would try to play with the brass first and get that as good as possible, then move to pipe/head then finally to the FWW. If you get it good with the motor mods the FWW will tune it to perfection for what you want to do.
 
You still haven't answered his question about buying a quad. Please tell us that it isn't true.
 
OaklandF4i said:
You actually have to ride with thus to worry about that! Did you buy a quad? :laughing :twofinger




Tom, your RM is going to be slightly different than our YZ's. In general, the YZ mods we all have done are going to make the RM a better woods bike. But the specifics, ie how heavy a weight, how many degrees retarded etc etc may all be slightly different. But back to your question, Antonio retarded his YZ ignition too far and the bike became incredibly weak. Try 1, then 2 or 1.5. Find a long steep hill to test on. With a dial gauge in the spark plug hole its pretty easy to do in a staging area to test.

THis is how I would proceed....

1) The RM's (and I assume your 03) has adjustable power valve spring preload to help too. Thats where I would start. Wish the YZ had this. 2) Richen your needle slightly one clip, then maybe two. Thats your midrange transition and going just slightly richer will soften it. 3)Then figure out where your ignition is currently set compared to stock. I wouldnt retard more than 1-2 degrees. 4) then maybe a G2 Throttle Tamer. 5) Flywheel. Doesnt tame the hit from the seat of the pants feel as much as it allows it to chug along at really low rpm without flaming out. That is until you go to some heavy flywheel weights. I read Chad Reed and team Yamaha ran as much as 20 oz weights in the mud years ago on the smokers. I run an 11 oz. Your 8 oz might be just fine on the RM.

Anyways, thats the order I would be adjusting/tuning in. Lot of free stuff first. Just my opinion and experience. Others may vary.

Edit: O ring chains, heavy duty tubes, offroad tires, and 18" rear rim all slow the motor down a notch and help it hook up. Basically all add weight for the motor to turn.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info CJ. My last 2 stroke, IT-490, was meant for off road and didn't come on as hard and pulled like a John Deere at the bottom down to 48 RPM:teeth I'll keep working on dialing it it, but I'll have to find the time to ride it first.
 
elemetal said:
The 250's I've ridden from that era make a good amount of power but it comes on pretty strong. Make sure to spend some time on it, it is soooo different than a 4t.

That being said the things that will affect that hit are combustion shape, pipe and fuel delivery. Pipe and head shape aren't too hard but the needle is the easiest. Read up on what people are using on the interwebz, a triple taper needle is likely what you want and I'm guessing the hit is from that second taper. I like to run single tapers because they are easier to tune and the power is pretty linear but have a triple on my Gasser. What carb? I've got a few single taper needles for Keihin you could play with to see if that's where the abrupt shape of the power is coming from; with a 2t its amazing what a needle will do. Doesn't Adam run an RM? Did you ask him about what he runs in it?

All the stuff CJ said is right but I would try to play with the brass first and get that as good as possible, then move to pipe/head then finally to the FWW. If you get it good with the motor mods the FWW will tune it to perfection for what you want to do.
Click to expand...

It is a Keihin and is running a N8RH needle in the 3rd position, which is exactly in the middle of the lean-Rich graph in the factory manual. It has a 42 pilot and a 168 main installed.

Adam is riding a RMZ 4T
 
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