Well, all the bearings were good except the lower shock, it was dry and seized. WTF?! I thought I greased when I had Zoran rebuild the shock. It should be in the same condition as all the other bearings. Maybe the seals were bad and let water in, but they looked good. BTW, Koyo bearing, so original from 2006, not an All Balls or Pivot Works kit. I ordered an All Balls kit because of austerity measures.
I got the new carb vent lines done.
Looks good, except I realized the routing was wrong when I put the sprocket cover back on. Mo betta:
BTW, this is poly, um, poly-something hose, slightly less flexible than the Keihin hose and a smaller outside diameter. The original spring clips won't fit so I used small zip ties to secure them over the carb fittings.
Speaking of sprocket cover and ignition cover, no more JIS head screws.
Then I got to work checking for play in the (original) crank. Don't throw away those evil plastic straws, they are good for finding near TDC.
With the ignition cover off, you can grab the flywheel and try to jiggle it. If you feel any movement, you're done, no need to break out the dial indicator, you need a new bottom end. But if it's tight, you can use a timing dial.
Zero it at TDC then rotate the flywheel back and forth slightly. If the dial doesn't move directly with flywheel, it's time for a new bottom end.
This was good time to clean out the ignition area, which is vented and lets in dust and water. My bike was spotless.
If you are checking crank play with a dial indicator, you should also confirm the ignition timing and possibly adjust it. But then that's probably why you have a 2 stroke plug hole dial adapter.