What did you do to your dirty bike today?

[buellistic]

To brake in a new tire.

 

[2strokeYardSale]

My wheel bearings are toast and my Hazard Fraught blind bearing puller isn't working. I think I'll just go ghetto with a hammer and punch.

Neither method is working. The collar is in the way and won't let me get a purchase on a bearing surface.

Any great ideas?

 

[onto1wheel]

My guess would be that the bearings are pinching the spacer so tight it won't move out of the way. If it just won't move out of the way, I would probably end up grinding an arc with a sharp edge in my punch to get some purchase on that bearing. But I dunno. Maybe someone has a proper good idea...
edit: I probably don't really understand what the issue is, so you'll probably want to disregard those suggestions

 

[WoodsChick]

Neither method is working. The collar is in the way and won't let me get a purchase on a bearing surface.

Any great ideas?

Gently heat up the outside of the hub? Don't let the bearing get hot, which would defeat the purpose.


WC

 

[Kestrel]

Ice on the bearing, heat gun on the hub, and try to get the blind puller to work. Avoid torching the hub for heat - super high temps don't really play nice with cast aluminum from a metallurgical perspective.

If it turns into a super duper shit show, then very carefully weld something to/in the bearing, and beat it out from the other side.

 

[Eric B]

Agreed with the heat suggestions.
I bought an inexpensive hot plate from Walmart(about 8 inch diameter), to heat the hub on. Let’s you go do another task for 10 minutes or so.
Should make it easier for the blind puller.

 

[OaklandF4i]

Neither method is working. The collar is in the way and won't let me get a purchase on a bearing surface.

Any great ideas?

Eric -

I got stuck on a set of YZ bearings in the same manner. Inner spacer (collar) wasnt moving out of the way to get purchase with a punch on the bearing and my blind bearing puller wasnt grabbing either. After swearing and throwing a wrench or two I called either 1962siia or Anytwowilldo... forget. They tend to provide phone therapy when I've lost it.

But they convinced me to go back and really smack that inner spacer with a good blow to the side using a punch to move it over a bit so I could get purchase on the bearing. Usually those spacers just tap out of the way to get purchase, sometimes they get really stuck for what ever reason and need some ..... cough..... gentle persuasion.

No matter how much heat and where you apply it, you are going to need to get purchase on the bearing and only way is to whack that spacer to the side until it moves. Perhaps someone else has a more elegant solution, but I dont know of one.

 

[thedub]

My wheel bearings are toast and my Hazard Fraught blind bearing puller isn't working. I think I'll just go ghetto with a hammer and punch.

Neither method is working. The collar is in the way and won't let me get a purchase on a bearing surface.

Any great ideas?

Use a blind bearing puller that doesn't suck?

 

[2strokeYardSale]

It only sucks at the moment because it has no bearing surface to pull. In other situations it has worked fine. GSXR wheels, TZ250 cases, etc.

And, austerity measures are in effect. There will be no special Snap On or even Motion Pro special tool purchases for me.

 

[Kestrel]

It only sucks at the moment because it has no bearing surface to pull. In other situations it has worked fine. GSXR wheels, TZ250 cases, etc.

And, austerity measures are in effect. There will be no special Snap On or even Motion Pro special tool purchases for me.

Another idea...

I used a concrete wedge anchor bolt to remove a stubborn bearing out of an old GSXR wheel. Heated hub, tightened the shit out of it, and beat proceeded to do my best Thor impression. Took a few iterations, but the fucker came out. You can use a lot more force that compared to the traditional slide hammer puller.

http://toolmonger.com/2007/07/19/tip-use-concrete-anchor-bolts-to-pull-blind-bearings/

http://www.sr500forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=10600

etc.

Lowes/HD have them for a few bucks. 5/8" sleeve anchor worked great on smaller ID bearings -15-17mm. Anything bigger, and there probably isn't enough material there. I think the YZ is 20mm? So perhaps a 3/4" anchor (~19mm) might do the trick after expansion. Not sure how common that size is, or if they exist...

 

[Butch]

I'm gonna was the Alta so i can install the skid plate.
Parts of the Alta. Shiney rims look cool, but that is too much work, and heck, I'm just going back into the mud tomorrow.

 

[2strokeYardSale]

go back and really smack that inner spacer with a good blow to the side using a punch to move it over a bit so I could get purchase on the bearing. Usually those spacers just tap out of the way to get purchase, sometimes they get really stuck for what ever reason and need some ..... cough..... gentle persuasion.

No matter how much heat and where you apply it, you are going to need to get purchase on the bearing and only way is to whack that spacer to the side until it moves. Perhaps someone else has a more elegant solution, but I dont know of one.

This did the trick. Then I got some bearing surface to punch/hammer the drive side bearing out slightly, making enough space for the puller. It came right out with the puller. With the drive side bearing out and the collar out, the brake side bearing was a problem. The puller wasn't working. The puller pulls from the inside portion of the bearing and there was no outer surface accessible to punch from the other side of the hub.

I tried various tricks but in the end it was just a combo of brute force and technique with the slide hammer. Like other things I've pulled, imitating a rattle gun seems to work well, hammering quickly and sharply. The bearing was partially weather-seized in the hub, with a small ring of rust.

For some reason the bearings seem fine. They seemed chunky when I first took the wheel off and finger-tested them. Anyway, I packed new PivotWorks bearings with grease (read a tip on TT that they came too dry) and put them in the freezer, with the wheel in the house. My garage was 45 F, maybe that had something to do with the degree of difficulty, though I did try a small torch on the hub for the bearing that didn't want to come out.

 

[Junkie]

Got my rear tire off and inspected the Tubliss liner. It looks great except it's chewed up a bit around the rim lock and I don't like how the inner tube sticks out a bit around one side of the rim lock. The rim tape even looks good.

My wheel bearings are toast and my Hazard Fraught blind bearing puller isn't working. I think I'll just go ghetto with a hammer and punch.

New tire is indoors getting warm.

you run a rim lock with tubliss?

 

[Kestrel]

Well, might go check out the KDX on Sunday. 2 hour drive from me, but it's a thousand bucks and *appears* to be in pretty good shape? Will bring a trailer and cash, and see what happens.

Never have I ever touched a 2T bike. Anything in particular I should be looking for / testing, outside of the normal bike stuff?

 

[Eric B]

Well, might go check out the KDX on Sunday. 2 hour drive from me, but it's a thousand bucks and *appears* to be in pretty good shape? Will bring a trailer and cash, and see what happens.

Never have I ever touched a 2T bike. Anything in particular I should be looking for / testing, outside of the normal bike stuff?

What year is it?
KDX rider.net is a great resource for KDX knowledge.
‘95 - 04 is the last generation, parts are still readily available. I can’t speak for previous gen’s.
An engine rattle, that goes away when the clutch is pulled in, is normal.
Ask the owner to loosen the swing arm pivot bolt, to see if it still slides out a bit. This is not KDX specific, just older dirt bike specific. If neglected( occasionally greased), it’s a pain to remove.
Other than that, these bikes are pretty reliable, with no issues to address before using them.
I think the rotary valves on the older gen models are getting scarce.

 

[2strokeYardSale]

you run a rim lock with tubliss?

Yes, the rim lock that is included and integral to the Tubliss system.

Never have I ever touched a 2T bike. Anything in particular I should be looking for / testing, outside of the normal bike stuff?

Normal dirt bike stuff: bent wheels, toasted bearings, etc. That all adds up quickly! If you are not used to 2T engines they sound like something is broken, especially KDXs. If the seller will let you do a compression test, it's super easy and will tell you a lot.

 

[byke]

Also, everybody selling one says they just put in a new top end and when/if you buy it, you should put in a new top end.

 

[OaklandF4i]

Also, everybody selling one says they just put in a new top end and when/if you buy it, you should put in a new top end.

LOL..... guilty of the giving the latter piece of advice. Or at least opening it up to confirm. I mean, craigslist sellers never lie do they?

 

[2strokeYardSale]

Installed the wheel bearings and the seal on one side. Ordered a new circlip for the side that needs it. Warp 9 assembled my wheel without it, because I sure didn't take it off just to re-pack that bearing. I never knew there was supposed to be a clip, I'm glad the wheel stayed together without it.

I also installed a new Shinko R505 cheater on the Tubliss. It went pretty well, only a few new scratches on the rim. I'm never getting anything but silver rims. Oh I did manage to explode a low pressure tire gauge on the high pressure bladder. That was exciting.

 

[2strokeYardSale]

I think I may have crossed the point on the teeter-totter where my bike goes from well-loved to roached out.

First, I got the circlip from RM installed. Then when I went to put in the Pivot Works outer seal its outer diameter was too small. And it was low quality, with the plasticy coating missing from a third on the inside, and no spring on the inner diameter like the OEM seal. So I cleaned up the old OEM seal and used it. But it was a little worn on the I.D. (One step closer on the teeter totter.)

I went to check on my brake pedal, which is always loose. It wouldn't tighten. I took it apart and figured out that the loose male threaded portion enlarged the female threads in the frame. FFFFFUUUUU!

Yamaha rear brake pedal pivot. Threaded portion threads into frame, in theory.

I kludged a fix with a nut on the end. (One step closer on the teeter totter.) My next fix might be to trash it and get a left hand brake.

When I went to remove the air filter, the bolt would not budge. I had to use pliers for leverage on the wing nut and it took 15 minutes of struggling with it, bit by bit. Years of accumulated No-Toil had gummed up the works and in the cold weather it seized up. (One step closer on the teeter totter.) I'm soaking the bolt in cleaner but I also need to de-gum the female threads in the filter housing somehow.

There were more little steps on the tetter totter: the slightly tweaked axle block where it meets the adjuster bolt (kinda proud of that, I must admit, awesome power from tuning), the spoogey silencer, the leaking Scotts damper, etc.