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What did you do to your dirty bike today?

Yesterday I managed to jam this f&cker in my rear tire on/near the MX track at Carnegie. Now the question I pose to BARF is - what's the right thing to do with the rear tire? I picked up a tire patch kit at Harbor Freight (actual patch, not plug) and was thinking I could patch the inside and install a new tube and I'm all good? The puncture is in middle section of the tire, nowhere near the side.
 

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Yesterday I managed to jam this f&cker in my rear tire on/near the MX track at Carnegie. Now the question I pose to BARF is - what's the right thing to do with the rear tire? I picked up a tire patch kit at Harbor Freight (actual patch, not plug) and was thinking I could patch the inside and install a new tube and I'm all good? The puncture is in middle section of the tire, nowhere near the side.

You can even patch the tube and patch the inside of the tire and be done with it, save yourself the hassle of buying a new tube. I always make sure I have spare tubes on hand though, been stranded once out on the trail many years ago without one, and had a hole and a pinch that were too big to patch.
 
Do people even bother with patching the tire? I'd thought it was generally repair tube only.
 
Do people even bother with patching the tire? I'd thought it was generally repair tube only.

If the hole is big enough, it's always a good idea. You can get a lot of sand and stuff in that will abrade the tube and cause another failure. That looks like a 6 mm bolt, if it were mine I would patch the tire also.
 
If the hole is big enough, it's always a good idea. You can get a lot of sand and stuff in that will abrade the tube and cause another failure. That looks like a 6 mm bolt, if it were mine I would patch the tire also.

Yep it's probably a 6mm bolt, that's why I figured I should patch the inside of the tire too. I already have a heavy duty tube on hand, so I'll install that and will patch the tube and keep it as a just in case backup until I get another extra tube. :thumbup
 
I think I may have crossed the point on the teeter-totter where my bike goes from well-loved to roached out.

First, I got the circlip from RM installed. Then when I went to put in the Pivot Works outer seal its outer diameter was too small. And it was low quality, with the plasticy coating missing from a third on the inside, and no spring on the inner diameter like the OEM seal. So I cleaned up the old OEM seal and used it. But it was a little worn on the I.D. (One step closer on the teeter totter.)

I went to check on my brake pedal, which is always loose. It wouldn't tighten. I took it apart and figured out that the loose male threaded portion enlarged the female threads in the frame. FFFFFUUUUU!

s-l300.jpg

Yamaha rear brake pedal pivot. Threaded portion threads into frame, in theory.

I kludged a fix with a nut on the end. (One step closer on the teeter totter.) My next fix might be to trash it and get a left hand brake.

When I went to remove the air filter, the bolt would not budge. I had to use pliers for leverage on the wing nut and it took 15 minutes of struggling with it, bit by bit. Years of accumulated No-Toil had gummed up the works and in the cold weather it seized up. (One step closer on the teeter totter.) I'm soaking the bolt in cleaner but I also need to de-gum the female threads in the filter housing somehow.

There were more little steps on the tetter totter: the slightly tweaked axle block where it meets the adjuster bolt (kinda proud of that, I must admit, awesome power from tuning), the spoogey silencer, the leaking Scotts damper, etc.

It's roached for sure and nearly worthless. I'll be kind and paypal you a grand for it today.:rofl
 
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I finally installed the fan kit on my 525 which required a Clarke oversized tank, the IMS that it came with won't clear a fan. While it was apart I installed a stiffer Racetech spring and fattened up the pilot and raised the needle. I reinstalled the FMF Powerbomb header the bike came with and the Titanium 4 silencer with the quiet insert and spark arrestor. I put new fuel in her last night and took her for a ride on the street. I had forgotten how much of Wheelie machine she is. Under forth, don't grab too much too fast as she just lifts the front wheel effortlessly. I'm going to like this bike! Now time to go get some time on her before Baja.
 
I finally installed the fan kit on my 525 which required a Clarke oversized tank, the IMS that it came with won't clear a fan. While it was apart I installed a stiffer Racetech spring and fattened up the pilot and raised the needle. I reinstalled the FMF Powerbomb header the bike came with and the Titanium 4 silencer with the quiet insert and spark arrestor. I put new fuel in her last night and took her for a ride on the street. I had forgotten how much of Wheelie machine she is. Under forth, don't grab too much too fast as she just lifts the front wheel effortlessly. I'm going to like this bike! Now time to go get some time on her before Baja.

Check the fan kit screws rubbing the tank.
I had to grind mine down a little!
 
It's roached for sure and nearly worthless. I'll be kind and paypal you a grand for it today.:rofl
There's a 2016 YZ250 on CL for $2500. I'm thinking scam but look anyway, if only to flag it. Not a scam, nice low hour bike. But, "No title, don't ask." Too good to be true always is. Somebody's selling the bank's bike. I wonder if he even put $1000 down on it.
 
Got a question for the experienced dirt riders here: when I bought my used '15 YZ250F it had a -1 sprocket on the rear. Prev owner raced it and said he did that to reduce wheelieing out of turns. I'm a dirt noob and ride basically only ride trails at Metcalf/Hollister/Carnegie. I like doing the single track stuff and I know (think) I should go back to the stock gearing. Does that sound right, would you recommend even going to +1 on the rear? I don't think I want to put a flywheel weight on, but I'm open to being convinced if people think I should =) I'm also not interested in more expensive mods like an aftermarket clutch.
 
I think just going -1 in the rear doesn't really do much at all. Waste of money in my opinion. The countersprocket has greater effect on gearing and is cheaper to replace. Bascially what they were trying to do is make the gearing longer so it lugs the engine more. With all that crazy power the YZ250 has =P

I think if you are riding trails you would probably want to lug the motor more so I'd just leave it how it is.
 
I second what Hades said, not much difference in 1 tooth at the rear. Higher ratio will have a little less power to the rear (lugging) so less tendency to spin the tire; lower ratio will spool up quicker and is easier to spin the rear. For what you're doing just ride it, I'm actually surprised the PO only changed it by a tooth, that's hardly noticeable.

250F is way more mello than a YZ 250....
 
Went to change the oil.
To cold. So I rode it instead.
 

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Last night I installed a rear wheel bearing upgrade kit on my KTM. It uses larger, wider ball bearings and new spacers. Tonight I installed the stiffer RaceTech fork springs to complement the stiffer RaceTech shock spring.
 
Last night I installed a rear wheel bearing upgrade kit on my KTM. It uses larger, wider ball bearings and new spacers. Tonight I installed the stiffer RaceTech fork springs to complement the stiffer RaceTech shock spring.

Baja's comming up quick , Yo
 
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