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Do You Mountain Bike?

looking for a gravity dropper or like kind seatpost. going to need it for downieville. what do you have
 
I ride BMX, and love it.

Going downhill mountain biking with some coworkers for the first time @ skegs on friday morning. Im sure ill love it too. Im looking forward to it =)

If u guys need maitnence done - hit up REI san carlos, im a tech there - we do good work.
 
Midday at Tmrncho, going for a easy pace, while still rushing the technical sections. Javahut ~2

Mike, I ran traces on the race bike, still a few minutes off your best. :teeth
 
I heard (mikes bikes)that the mavic seatpost was bought out by Crankbrothers and that the price has gone up. I've also been told by Mr.Crash that the Crankbrothers is the one to get, thats about all I know?

BTW you get my PM?
 
Yody said:
I heard (mikes bikes)that the mavic seatpost was bought out by Crankbrothers and that the price has gone up. I've also been told by Mr.Crash that the Crankbrothers is the one to get, thats about all I know?

BTW you get my PM?
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crank bro's one if a hydro cylinder, and much more prone to failure. Also, they only come in a length up to 380mm. so i need a gravity dropper or all mountain post.

Didn't get a pm? whats up?
 
YOu still need some Mutano's? I have a friend who bought some brand new and didn't like them, said they were too heavy. Only used em one ride. I'm sure he'd part with them for a good deal.

I felt the difference in weight myself coming from a 590 gram tire but the lateral grip and climbing grip is so much better than my old tires I'm loving them
 
I'm set for now, thanks.

Mike, do you know what tires your running for d ville yet?

i picked up a weirwolf LT last night, which rolls SUPER FAST and has a good volume. I'm going to try it in the rear this weekend, with a mutano in the front, and also a 2.3 weirwolf in front. maybe throw the LT on the front and see how drifty it is.

I think my setup will be a mutano front, with the team FR LT in the rear. it rolls to damn fast not to, along with a heavy casing, i shouldn't have to worry about flats, unless im passing people off course.
 
Yody said:
I heard (mikes bikes)that the mavic seatpost was bought out by Crankbrothers and that the price has gone up. I've also been told by Mr.Crash that the Crankbrothers is the one to get, thats about all I know?
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I've heard of a few Gravity Droppers breaking, but haven't heard any bad reports on the Crank Bros Joplins (previously the Maverick Speedball) breaking. I was on one MTBR ride when a guy's Gravity Dropper just stopped working. The poser in me thinks the Crank Bros just looks slicker without that accordion-looking mud guard on it.

If I were to use one, I'd have to go with the Gravity Dropper as they don't make the Joplin in a size that fits my Cannondale. I think I'm gonna tough it out with what I've got - the only place I plan on raising it is for the short climb after the bridge.

sjensen said:
Mike, do you know what tires your running for d ville yet?
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I think I'm gonna try the combo both you and Beavers recommend - Mutano 2.24 front and rear, with Stans and a medium high pressure (just under 40 psi)

The Team FR tires seem to have a softer bead - I've blown two of them off the rim attempting to run Stans. Wasn't even riding them, I just came home from work one day and there it was, off the rim. Attempting to get it to bead again blew it off the rim immediately.[/QUOTE]

wickerman777 said:
Pussy! I did it with a hardtail single speed.
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Slick. Do you know what trails you rode? I heard there's still some snow at the top.
 
MrCrash said:
I've heard of a few Gravity Droppers breaking, but haven't heard any bad reports on the Crank Bros Joplins (previously the Maverick Speedball) breaking. I was on one MTBR ride when a guy's Gravity Dropper just stopped working. The poser in me thinks the Crank Bros just looks slicker without that accordion-looking mud guard on it.

If I were to use one, I'd have to go with the Gravity Dropper as they don't make the Joplin in a size that fits my Cannondale. I think I'm gonna tough it out with what I've got - the only place I plan on raising it is for the short climb after the bridge.



I think I'm gonna try the combo both you and Beavers recommend - Mutano 2.24 front and rear, with Stans and a medium high pressure (just under 40 psi)

The Team FR tires seem to have a softer bead - I've blown two of them off the rim attempting to run Stans. Wasn't even riding them, I just came home from work one day and there it was, off the rim. Attempting to get it to bead again blew it off the rim immediately.
Click to expand...



Slick. Do you know what trails you rode? I heard there's still some snow at the top.[/QUOTE]



do you have any team FR tires you want to sell? I think im going to run them with about 48PSI, as thats the inside scoop i have been getting from a few people on optimum pressure.
 
MrCrash said:
I've heard of a few Gravity Droppers breaking, but haven't heard any bad reports on the Crank Bros Joplins (previously the Maverick Speedball) breaking. I was on one MTBR ride when a guy's Gravity Dropper just stopped working. The poser in me thinks the Crank Bros just looks slicker without that accordion-looking mud guard on it.

If I were to use one, I'd have to go with the Gravity Dropper as they don't make the Joplin in a size that fits my Cannondale. I think I'm gonna tough it out with what I've got - the only place I plan on raising it is for the short climb after the bridge.

I think I'm gonna try the combo both you and Beavers recommend - Mutano 2.24 front and rear, with Stans and a medium high pressure (just under 40 psi)

The Team FR tires seem to have a softer bead - I've blown two of them off the rim attempting to run Stans. Wasn't even riding them, I just came home from work one day and there it was, off the rim. Attempting to get it to bead again blew it off the rim immediately.
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I'm just hearing about some Gravity Droppers breaking. I can't imagine what people are doing to break them. I rode mine all last season at Northstar and D'ville without a problem. They're mechanically very simple inside, so any issues you may come across should be easily fixed. I really prefer the 4" travel (would like 5") and GD was the only one at the time I purchased. There are a few more out now that I'm looking at that offer up to 5" travel.

Regarding running standard tires tubeless, Stan's NoTubes.com has a list of recommended and non-recommended tires. WTB is not on either list so I'm not sure what that means. I've have mixed results trying to run WTB tires tubeless. My other favorite tire maker, Maxxis, is also not on the list, but they offer many of their tires in tubeless versions.

Before I knew about this, I was trying to run an IRC tire tubeless and it blew off of the rim on the paved section at the top of D'ville (before Sunrise was built). I didn't bail, but it was scary.

Now, I tend to stick to tubeless version of tires if I can help it. I know they're heavy, but so am I and I just don't trust some of the stuff out there. If I weighed 150lbs... maybe I'd be more willing to try out some more marginal stuff. With the rough terrain at D'ville, I tend to run tubes and high pressure with decent success.

Speaking of air pressure Mike, your "just under 40psi" is getting close to the limit and may make blowouts more likely. I tend to run around 30psi. This is paraphrased from NoTubes.com...

If your going tubeless then 42psi max and for off road i would try 25 to 30psi. With a tube you can take it higher to 65psi but you can't go as high pressure when converting a tire because the extra strain on the bead of the tire. Some pro mountain bikers with 2.0 tires are down in the teens for pressure.
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WTB is supposedly working on tubeless versions of their tires as we speak (according to the WTB guy at the Sea Otter). I'm sure Mark Weir is running "special" tires that you and I can't get. I like some of their tires, but tend to run them with tubes for now.
 
Switching gears a bit: I went from a 120mm (stock) stem to a 110mm/5 degree rise one on my XC-specific Stumper FS and now feel the handling/steering is quite twitchy, specially climbing. I also switched to a riser bar vs. the stock flat bar. You think returning to a 120mm length stem should fix this?

Anyone want a 110mm/5 deg/25.4 Thompson stem? Anyone have a 120mm/5 deg/25.4 Thompson they want to trade/sell?

BTW, I was on the hardtail the other day... wow - I miss how a really light bike feels and the basic bike handling skills it teaches you. I gotta head to China Camp on it soon...
 
I have a 120mm Kore stem that would work for you, not sure on the rise, can't see it being anymore than 10 degrees if it isn't 5 degree, Just pay the shipping and its yours

I just bought a 100mm stem Thomson off of ebay otherwise I would of bought yours
 
dking said:
Speaking of air pressure Mike, your "just under 40psi" is getting close to the limit and may make blowouts more likely. I tend to run around 30psi. This is paraphrased from NoTubes.com...
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I think Mike is referring to pressures for Downieville where "I've heard" its super rocky and most people run near 50PSI there to keep from pinch flatting. IIRC
 
Yody said:
I have a 120mm Kore stem that would work for you, not sure on the rise, can't see it being anymore than 10 degrees if it isn't 5 degree, Just pay the shipping and its yours

I just bought a 100mm stem Thomson off of ebay otherwise I would of bought yours
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I had a Kore on my hardtail - I recently swapped that one out as well. I think I'll order a 120mm stem and see if that helps - then I'll just sell the one I don't need. Thanks...
 
120 seems mighty long, I'm 6'2" and had a 120 and I was too stretched out. You might think about using/removing spacers under the stem and/or rotating the bars, or moving the seat fore and aft and last of all modifiying your climbing technique....or just get a different stem, honestly though it sounds as if you need to get more weight over the front tire and less weight on the bars? (question mark because I'm not really experienced to give anyone advice :laughing)

It sounds like
 
Yody said:
120 seems mighty long, I'm 6'2" and had a 120 and I was too stretched out. You might think about using/removing spacers under the stem and/or rotating the bars, or moving the seat fore and aft and last of all modifiying your climbing technique....or just get a different stem, honestly though it sounds as if you need to get more weight over the front tire and less weight on the bars? (question mark because I'm not really experienced to give anyone advice :laughing)

It sounds like
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You may be right. But seat is all the way forward (don't have a set-back Thompson seatpost). Shim stack/ht is fine, but I can probably try rotating the bar (forward) and experiment a bit. Bike is in the shop getting some drivetrain looked at - I couldn't adjust it right - would ghost shift on me and I was getting frustrated. Anyhow... we'll see how she does Saturday in Napa...
 
I'm running a 120 stem/flat bar/barends on my xc rig and really like the position for climbing and overall pedaling. Makes it feel just a little sketchy on downhills, but that's what I have my AM rig for anyway.
 
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